17.12.7

Clomb again today. Wasn't precisely inspiring, but it was way better than the last few times out. Before i hurt this finger, i was regularly flashing v3. Now i just can't seem to get back to strength. But today i was moderately strong. Hit a bunch of 2 and then strung three v3s in a row, although i'd already done 'em all. i think part of it is i'm hitting a mental block. i haven't felt 100% for a long while now, and i think i go in expecting not to feel strong. i think taking a coupl'a weeks off for travelling and then getting back in the regular gym some will be huge. i'm trying to learn more about periodizing and just how much rest i actually need. Never have been very good at that. Taking my big, chunky butt climbing at project intensity as often as Fred Nicole does just sho' ain't working for me.

8.12.7

Three weeks; three days-- who's counting? i clomb a coupl'a evenings ago with James for to avoid putting the gun in my mouth for a bit longer. And i do hafta say that three off days did me a lotta good. i'm still going to take some weeks off (starting hopefully now), but i was going insane and needed real bad to go pull the walls down. Had to take it kinda easy on my finger still, and i think i've probably gained 4 or 5 lbs. in my few days off, but i snagged a bunch o' routes for feeling like a sluggard. Very good workout in spite of the fact that i probably set back my healtime a little further. i'd bought a shiny new bottle of brandy on my way home frome school, and i was contemplating another evening of sitting here feeling tired and crappy in front of this damned monitor drinking, and when it all washed out, blowing out a finger tendon sounded healthier and more enjoyable. i am gonna start back in the irongym, but i've gotta be in the right frame of mind for it-- it's gonna be a li'l depressing till i've got a few weeks in it.

Hope yer meet has gone well.

3.12.7

i believe i've ushered in some serious weeks off from climbing with today's sub-mediocrity. Haven't actually succumbed to any serious new injuries (thank Heaven), but i've been stagnant for a while now. Keep taking a day or two off in between sessions thinking eventually i'll see another positive slope; but it ain't happening. Then today i glopped off of a v3 i've been projecting for several weeks, fell 4 or 5 times on the starting moves of a v2 i flashed a few days ago, got shut down on another v3 i've tried a few times, and finished the session off by falling off of a v1. The tendonitis in my right bicep is mostly gone, but has moved to my left arm instead. i think i'm gonna quit beating myself up for 3 or 4 weeks, and concentrate on getting my whole body strong again in the irongym. That might even leave me enough time to start up running and riding again. This kind of intense stagnation tends to break me and send me into self-destruction mode. i'm going to make some effort to avoid that this time 'round. Suggestions for a good workout?