293.81

i thought that coming up with diagnoses for pts would be intimidating. But coming up with diagnoses that insurance companies will pay you for is really the hardest part of medicine. There's gotta be an ICD-9 code for what happens to you after trying to decipher ICD-9 codes. Kindof a generalized anxiety disorder thang, with some nystagmus and delirium. 


i feel pressured into writing. G's thrown down the gauntlet. i have definitely not gotten the hang of this rotation deal, time-wise. Think i've been working out maybe two or three times the week. Haven't got in to the irongym in about a week and a half. Have been climbing a few times though. Interestingly, although i'm fatter than i've been in many moons, i'm not climbing particularly worse. In fact, i finally touched the finish hold on my v6 proj; but i couldn't muster the send juice. That's where i'm feeling the fat: got no endurance. Gotta get on the ball and trim some of this pannus off of the abdomen.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
25.04.11

That was a few days ago, and i didn't manage to finish. But i'll post it up for to have it on record. Clumb today over lunch (which i'm gonna try to make a habit of), and i sent one of my v6 projects. The finish move had eluded me for many burns: this big throw off of a terr'ble, horr'ble, no good, very bad sloper. Every time i'd set up to gun for the finish, i'd pop off as soon as my hands were nearly at eye-level. Absolutely zero outward vector possibilities on this hold. So i found a cheat. It's a huge hold, so i found  a micro-crimp against the wall where part of the hold had been ground down from use. i felt kindof dirty milking the hold like that, but since my fingernails barely fit, i couldn't feel too bad. i haven't seen anybody else get to that point on the climb. One mo' v6 on the tick list, and it's a doozy.

And i've kinda sorta started the GF diet, in an unofficial sort of way. i'm trying at least to cut the cereal and crappy sugars out. But i did succumb to hunger today and had a Cliff Bar. And i feel a margarita in my near future. But when you get home from Heaven there, it's on.

Spicy

This one had me in tears.

Strange Shew

Snagged up some new kicks yesterd'y evening. The La Sportiva Solution. (Amazingly sexy ankles not included)

Dumbest looking things i've ever had on my feet, but they sho' do climb good. i sat on the floor of REI switching back and forth 'tween them, and a shiny new pair o' Miuras. Very tricky decision. The Miura is unquestionably the baddest shoe i've e'er clumb in, but i've been wanting to try the Solution since they came out. Figured this way i'd have three pairs i can cycle through to the resoler. So--tentative product review after one session: Not made for smearing up slabs, but they otherwise will stand on anything. They are a very different feel from the Optimus Primes and the Miuras, and they're gonna take some getting used to. They're made for steep bouldering, so i really haven't put 'em through their rigors yet. But they have a stiff, really solid, high heel cup made for heel-hooking, and that was the selling point for me. (i've yanked the Miuras off my feet before hooking in 'em). Also they have a cupped, super-steep toe for pawing, and really grippy dorsal rubber for bicycling. The toes are made for li'l pockets and edges, which i found worked marvellously even on my warm up. Good for using yer foot as a tool it was not designed for. Not so good for climbing stairs in. Also the clever wee single velcro closure worries me a bit--looks like you're hosed when that wears out. Jury's still out.

On to the workouts: we went to Los Conchas a few days ago, and i managed to get there without my shoes. Left 'em at the gym. Finally got around to picking 'em up yesterday evening. But the siren call of glory and tendonitis was too much, so i gave in and climbed. With no warm up, i jumped on a "v5" and sent. (It ain't a 5, for the record.) Then i onsighted a v4 that probably actually was 4ish. Or i would'a onsighted if i'd had chalk with me. Greased off a huge hold. So i mooched some chalk off a bystander and sent. Then i started working a v6 that's been vexing me. Wasn't sure i was capable of it, but it's got fun moves. Some strong dudes were working it with me, so i put up a new high point before i was thrashed. So i went in today to try out the shiny shoes. i touched the finish hold, but i haven't got the footwork wired yet. i think it'll go when i'm fresh. It's very tweaky, very sustained, really powerful. i plan to feel like more of a man when i get it.

Tomorrow we're going to Pagosa with the peeps-in-law for a week. i'm not exactly sure what we're going to do for a week there, but it won't be here. One bonus is that i won't be able to climb for a week, so mayhaps the erythematous induration and creaky, arthritic pain in my ring finger will have time to go away. Then i start rotations.

i understand that many blessings are needed Snyderward. Supplications are being prayed even now.