Projectin'

Went in to the gym last night for a quickie. Did 75 hanging straight leg raises in sets of 20. If you note that 75 is not evenly divisible by 20, it's 'cuz i was dying of lactate poisoning on the last set. Also did straight leg deads. Ergo my core is a smadge jello-y. Didn't have a particularly high pain tolerance, and m' shoulder was tweaking so i did some fairly arbitrary sets of pressing movement with very little weight, and ended up doing curls with theraband just to get some blood flowing to the afflicted areas. Tues. i'm hoping to send the hardest climb i've yet been on. Got two main projects on the barbie, and either one'd qualify as Sickest Yet. we just adopted three kittens, so there flew a little quid, and i've gotta buy plane tix to Josh's wedding, so there's a li'l mo'. But i'm gunna try to have it scraped together for end of April. Should be quite doable. That means June'll be the month for a 5.12 redpoint. 'S'a happy thought, that is. we need to get us a trip together for Hueco. That'd be good times.

Very fat; very weak

Today was unequivocally better than tues. Sent a couple of coolish problems, including a v4 that'd spit me off maybe 50 times. Kind'a thing where you throw to a one or two finger side-pull pocket from a heinous skitchy stance, and hope you stick. Every time it was like Stiiiiiick dammit!!! Nooo! Why?! Like if i could just get one more millimeter of flesh on the hold, i'd send. Finally shanked that sucka' today. That was nice. Only my biceps tendonitis is starting to rear its ugly heed again. i need some days off. But i'm pretty confident the reason it's so bad now is i gained some weight o'er the weekend. i do believe the tendonitis'll go away when the flab goes away. End of april it starts. i'm gunning for end of april for the v-diet. Peace to all my hood.

Ogres have layers

Did two sessions at the climbgym today. Both sucked in sundry ways , but with nearly equal magnitude. i think i put on about 4 or 5 lbs. of lard over the weekend. Texas, as usual, has been bad for me. At any rate, my hands should be stronger because of it, and i'm looking even more fervently toward a month of liquid dieting. It's coming; i can feel it. And with it will come solid 5.12. }->

Weekend needed

Unlike the brothaz, i had a crappy workout today. Turned out to be some good times though. Went in at ca. 10:30, and i was the only one there. So i fell off of everything i laid hand to for a while. (Actually, i repeated that "5+" i polished off a couple o' days ago.) Then i hooked up with coupla' guys and the energy was better. Still didn't send anything, but this one guy was strong, and we worked out the crux moves on a v7. i can actually see it going soon. Then i threw on a thiiiiiin, super tweaky 5 that i've secretly believed is impossible, and i came up with some new beta on it. i might just have it if i can get healed enough. And i've got another real hard 5 i think'll go when i'm fresh. So i was about to leave and this group of chicks came in--one of whom i've climbed with before, and taught her to lead last week. So she put me on this 10+ and i got to the crux and hung twice, and i was like, i totally don't have the juice today, but she gave me the "c'mon, don't be a failure" speech and i sent. That was waaay past having nothing left in the tank. Anyhow, that's the power of having someone questioning yer manhood. But i'm super amped about trying out the power of being 20lbs. lighter. i want 5.12. want. it. Moral: came up with some new projects and new motivation, even if i sucked this time.

Bump

V5+ today. Four tries. And the first two were cuz i had the beta jacked up on the first move. (Very subtle, that first move.) Then this big troupe of Tapout "cage-fighter" dorks came into the cave, and i said Yeah. Gotta get outta here quick. It's gonna get smelly soon. So i sent. They were nice enough, and i got a "C'mon dude!" when i set up for the final throw, but there's just a weird vibe in that crowd that raises my hackles. Anyhow, today was a ver' nice workout. i'm starting to stick things i didn't think i could stick a couple of weeks ago. And it was way more fun than the physics homework i was supposed to be doing.

Then...

went back after class for a second sesh. Steph and the kids were supposed to meet me there, but i finally called when they didn't show and it turned out one of 'em had an accident in the underoos. But i was already there, and didn't want to waste the trip. i'm not sure i sent anything at all (except that "v5" i was so excited about the other day), but i tried lots of hard problems. i was plumb juiced... nothin' left in the tank. i guess it's good to have that kind of workout once in a while, to take it to meltdown; but i think i'd'a rather just gone on to the grocery store. Now for that physics homework...

Leetle Milestone

i onsighted a 5.11- on lead today. i've flashed 11 before on toprope, but i'd never yet led 11. So to onsight one is an encouraging feeling. i think a 5.12 redpoint is not too far away. i'm getting more and more amped about the v diet thang. i really believe that if i were minus 15 or 20 lbs. i could walk up and onsight solid 5.12/v7 right now. i really believe that. And if could onsight at that level, it isn't unthinkable that i could redpoint 5.13/v8ish. That's a pretty dang cool thought to me.

Fat Do Float

Well i got that v5 today i was projecting at the end of Tues' session. That was unquestionably one of the hardest climbs ever i've grabbed the finish holds of, so i feel pretty confident about saying i've clumb v5 now. Now i need to lose 20 lbs. and start gunning for v8. i'm checking out the velocity diet thang...

>-)

Dos mas. i can now with a bit of authority say that v5 i did the other day isn't 5. i did it again today for a warmup (it probably goes at 4-), but then sent 2 more really frickin' hard 5s. So whether it was really v5 or not, it got me over the mental barrier. Then i started working another one with a friend, and i think, worked out the crux. i think it'll fall on a fresher day. This resting in between workouts is nearly miraculous. And i got a 96 on that chem. test. (Made one silly error.) It all adds up to make for a pretty bueno day-o. Cheers lads.

S.W.D.

[There. i'm outta the closet... i'm white.)

Steph's in San Diego on the beach for the weekend for a "business trip", and i've got the kiddos for the duration. Only the peeps-in-law offered to keep the two eldest for the night so i could acclamitize to breast feeding in the middle of the night, and they offered to keep Katja for a coupl'a hours so i could go workout. So i took 'em up on it. SENT m' FIRST V5 TODAY. :D Steph called and i told her, and she seemed not to really give a rat's ass, so i'll declare it to you 'cuz i have no other friends out of whom i might hope to get a "Hey, cool. 'Attaboy." THEN i nearly sent another much harder one, but i fell on the last move. But it'll go when i'm a tad fresher. Dude! i've broken into v5! And in eight-ball slick rental shoes. And it was a cool problem, but it was sorta' anticlimactic 'cuz i just walked it. Didn't really feel that hard. i need to take a week off more often. Weird having biceps that weren't basically a source of undiluted agony. (Although i'm pretty sure i rethrashed 'em. Climbed for three hours.) Hooked up with this one guy i climb with occasionally, then a couple other cats showed up working the same stuff, and the energy of having a bunch of competing testosterone racing you for the send is... motivating. Very nice to trip onto that scene once in a while.

Yesterday i went in for the promised straight leg deads and hanging leg raises. i probably did too much weight on deads for having not done 'em in so long. i hurt. i need to do that more often. And i too need to get back on the game with the cardio. Word.

Specious

After five minutes of focussed, intense studying, i think i aced m' first Chem II test. Heh heh. i went up and asked that punk prof. about one of the terms that wasn't making sense to me, and he answered me like i was an idiot, and then announced it to the class kinda' chuckling. So i spanked his test for him. Here's to sticking it to The Man.

Yesterday's workout consisted of watching a climbing video while simultaneously sifting through youtube workouts. It was exhausting.

Hodge-podgin'

Didn't climb today. Went to the irongym for one o' the most random workouts i've ever done. As a result i can't remember what i did exactly, but it involved dodging people at rush hour, and picking up sundry weights and heaving them about. Something to do with a "prime directive" of shoulder rehab. In fact, i distinctly recall some Theraband coming into the mix somewhere. Then i left and went swimming. That worked out better for me. aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. i miss climbing. i miss my shoes. i miss uninflamed biceps. i intentionally didn't do abs or straight leg deads so's to have an m.o. for future workouts. Right.

And here's the funny anecdote for the day: Chemistry lab, right: only there's some cutish dork of a femme there for a makeup lab, and she joins us. 'S'a problem, cuz my lab partner's also a dork. So whole lab i'm trying to fight off my gag reflex as the Flirting Status-Post-High-School Dork Ballet unfolds before me. Halfway through i made it clear that i might kill him if he wasted my time at the expense of his goofy lebido once again. By the end i just had to clear my throat and they both got silent to see what might be the matter. i may not be all that huge, but it's amazing what the stubbly old-guy effect does to scrawny minors.

And i made a 90 on my pre-calc test. Highest grade in the class. Only i studied for 45 mins. for it and haven't done any of the homework yet. i felt pretty good about that, but i didn't show anyone else m' grade. i'm in a class full of "Engineering Majors" and i didn't figure that'd go over too well. It 1) makes me think i could be an engineer of whatever stripe without much problem, and 2) makes me think there're a lot of dumbasses what must be packing CAD terminals out there. Now the goal is to pass the rest of the class without doing any homework.

i miss climbing, really. And Trader Joe's has come out with a line of $18.oo single malts, and i'm afraid they're gunna kill me. Peace and Grace.

Freedom

As a valentine's day present to me, i sent my shoes off to Boulder for a resole. That'll keep me off'n the walls for at least a week. In spite of trying to go easy at the gym, my biceps just won't heal. i need some real live time for the ol' tendons to re-knit. i'm gonna try to get back into the iron gym and start doing some accessory work and some rehab. i sent those shoes off and it was like, "Ahh! i don't have to climb today! i can't! So there!" It was like a world had been lifted off my shoulders. No climbing, guilt free. we get a five hour babysitting gift today as a chance to go do something romantic and valentine's-y, and i think we're going to the climbing gym, but i'm going in my crocs as belay slave. i think we'll actually have fun with no chiddlers to scream at every ten seconds. It's time for a week of focussed slouching about.

...Don we now our reggae apparel...

i want to be healed, dangit! No. i should be thankful: i've largely avoided contracting The Plague from my chilluns and wif, who've been knocked down since last fri. my head feels stuffed with cotton and i've gone through bales of Kleenex, but i've dodged the fever, inverted lungs, abdominal alien eruptions, general malaise, etc. i bought a bottle of Islay single malt, and i do believe Steph imbibed more of it than i. "For the cough," says she.

Right, and i endeavored to climb again today. Biceps feel a tiddle better-- i was able to do several pullups. Still can't hold heavy lockoffs though. i've tried to go easy and give 'em time to heal, but i've done some awful damage to 'em. But today's big failure was all in my head. i don't understand it, but there's a trend in the mornings at that gym. Somebody in upper management is seriously fond of Reggae. i can only shake my head and frown. Today i couldn't handle it, and went to the front desk and asked for a music change. i thought she'd dig when i specified "something a bit angrier, please", but rather than chuckling knowingly, she gave me a concerned look and switched it to the all R.E.M. station. At any rate, it was an upgrade. i sent one (1) route today, and it was a v1. i fell off of ev-er-y-thing. Destroyed biceps are working out to be a real weak link in my training scheme. i need a solid week off from climbing, but i can't seem to manage to squish anything else in its place. Maybe i'll start waking up at 5:30 and swimming. isn't gunna happen, but i'll think about it wistfully. Peace.

C.Y.O.B-spot

After a three day rest, i went back in to the climbgym today. i was suffering from acute vaginitis and didn't manage to sew up my v5 proj. But i did link through the crux. It's really just a matter of hanging on and topping out. m' biceps are so weakened i just couldn't hold the lockoff. Irritating, but i didn't want to do more damage. Pretty much didn't do anything, but one kinda' cool new v3ish route. i wanna be healthy again, dangit! Got three sick kids and a sick wife, and i've staved off the plague from them so far, but i want my stoopid arms to recup. Bleh. Anyhow, that 5'll fall as soon as i can lug my head into the gym with the rest of me. They took down my 5+ project, so that's bumming, but there're others...

Paradigm Shift

Went back last night to meet Steph, but she no-showed on me, so i hung with a friend. It started off bad-- we both botched a 5.10 TR problem that should'a been easy. Then we settled in with some other guys working a v5 on the top-out boulder. i worked through all the moves on it, but couldn't link it up before we left. went back this afternoon to see if i could send it, but i kept falling on the top off a move i managed yesterday. So i ran into another cat i climb with occasionally, and he got me working a 6-, and a 5+ with 'im. didn't have the ammo in the guns for the hanging start on the 6, but all the moves seemed doable, and i worked through most of it. Also worked out the crux move on the 5. It'll definitely go when i'm healed, and it's solid 5. Finally, made an effort on a razor blade crimp problem. Should'a flashed that, but i scrogged the finish sequence and got spit off. Fingertips wouldn't allow another serious try.

went back with Steph and the kiddos this evening, but we didn't have much time by the time we got there. i did get to go back to the boulder and finish that teensy crimper prob. Goes at v3ish. Then got a v4 mantle problem i've got wired. Guess the trend now is two sessions per day. Only i feel a rest coming on-- i can see the capillaries in the tips of a couple o' fingers where i almost, but not quiiite yet have managed to grate away all the flesh. Tearing a chunk outta a fingertip is not one of those things i want to have to heal from.

Knitting the Panda

Three whole days; no climbing. Crazy what things like rest'll do for a body. For example, they make me fat as a sow. Aeon was watching Kung Fu Panda again this morning 'fore i left, and it inspired me. Snagged a v4 proj i couldn't get at the comp. It's a crimp problem that climbs outta this roof in the back of the boulder cave. Starts on an icky sloper. Move backwards to the first crimp, match, heelhook the start sloper. Move up to the next crimp, match, gun for a slopey swing, find a place for some feet, and finish. Funny thing is the crimps were these thin huecos, and when i matched on 'em they both flexed away from the wall under my fat butt. i'm all "Please don't break! Bad times to break!" Then i got my pet "v5" v3 again. Then another 3. Then i sent a v3 that'd spit me off an embarrassing number of times. Hopefully i'm gonna meet Steph at the gym for a rope session this evening. we'll see how that goes.

i feel so good, i've decided to take three days off every two or three weeks whether i realize i need it or not. ;)

Hidden Dragon

While there's certainly something depressing about being too torn down to function at a high level, there's something altogether gratifying about digging deep enough to say "Piss on all that," and tearing it down to the ground for warm accomplishment. Today's climbing session was kinda like that. Started off with quite a lot of super easy traversing. i could tell Tiger Claw WuShu Chi was craftily eluding me yet again, so i thought i'll just do everything with a kneebar, and my teeth if i have to." That didn't really work at all, but there were some chicks nearby watching, so i sent a long-standing v3 proj i'd never managed to do. Then there were these two angry looking, scrawny high-school kids moping about in my gym, falling off of things lightweight people have no right falling off of, so i walked a v3 crimper, and a v2 cave-roof toe-hook problem just to make myself feel better. Then it was upstairs where i fell 4 or 5 times "working" a v2 that should'a been a light constitutional. Got it, but i was sure there was nothing left. Then two more guys came up and started spraying-- working a v7. These fellers turned out to be proper cool, and we fell in to throwing beta at each other. Ended up sending another 3, a "4" that goes at righteous 2, another 2, worked all the moves on a v4 i missed at the comp, and even got some impressive distance on that v7. And i don't think i seriously damaged my biceps further-- kept me arms straight the whole time. Took some very odd yoga poses to do it, but it was a victory for sequencing and technique. Turns out my WuShu Chi can be aroused from slumber by having an audience. Who'd'a thought, eh!?

muddle

i have a tenuous grasp on just how often i've been to the climbgym lately. i can say i haven't been climbing much in the last few days... maybe nearly a week. Haven't been sleeping well at all. Biceps haven't healed much from my weird onslaught there for a few weeks. And i think i did some damage to a ligament in my left hand. i've been going to the climbgym almost (but not quite) daily, just to be there. i think i'm afraid of getting out of the habit. But for the last week i haven't been able to do anything. i go in, warm up extensively, stretch, throw at some problems, fall off of everything, then lie on the floor and stare at the ceiling. In that sense it's a bit more like yoga and meditation than climbing. In fact, today i was so stale (and, honestly, afraid of making things worse) i ended up doing a bunch of sets of hanging leg raises and stretching a bunch. Haven't been able to make it to the irongym in a couple o' weeks 'cuz of school and being outta pocket, and i've only swum once in the last few. i think largely because of that i've felt like i'm going crazy if i don't do something, so i end up climbing even if it's supposed to be an off day. At any rate, i've been getting fatter and healing little. i'm real ready to be in our own house again. Nearly there...

Bryant and Sandy: i'm praying for you guys. i surely want to hear that you're good.

The Shack

i read The Shack today. Super good book; thanks for the recommend. i hope it's an accurate view of God. Very beautiful.

Marker

Meandered in to the Kletterhalle today to kill time. Snagged three v3s (two of 'em new), and almost got a fourth. One of 'em was rated v4, and one of 'em v5, but i'm downgrading 'em to fit the rest of reality. i'm homing in on some realistic goals for the year. i know i can do v6/5.12. Shorter term, i need to 1) heal completely, and 2) start working on slopers and wide pinches. These are a real weakness. i'm finally getting strong enough that some strengths and weaknesses are beginning coalesce, and these grips-- especially open hand slopers-- are truly a weak link. At the moment, i'm ok with my diet/weight. It feels like it's slowly falling into line. the more obsessive i get about climbing, the less i'm tempted to eat crap. Now if i could just figure out how to sleep and fit swimming into the schedule...