Sunday, September 7, 2014

Campus Time (1st sesh)

[Addendum: managed to publish this today (sunday), but the campusing happened Friday. I did do a sprint workout today. About a 7 min warmup run--HR in the mid-140s-- then 7 sprint intervals of 20 secs at around HR 180, with 10 sec's rest between. Getting better at 'em. Also i weighed in at 196 this morning: lightest i've been in a long while. Diet's happening so far.]

Meaty. Campus day 1 was definitely hard, And, honestly, way too hodge-podge. Gunna hafta take the workout journal with me and keep it real and tight next time.

And that's not to say it wasn't a hardcore workout. Did the "warmup boulder ladder" basically correctly. Did 2 or so v0, 2 +/- v1s, 2 or 3 v2s, maybe a v3ish thing or two.

Then did the "serious bouldering". That's where things sorta unravelled. S'posed to give no more than 3 burns to 3 or so hard problems. Only i got sucked into giving a coupla problems what fer, and really probably spent 10 or 12 burns on a couple. Ergo, my hands already felt like figgy pudding when i finally got around to the campusing.

And honestly, i can't say the campusing didn't go well for my first go at it. I'm supposed to have "large," "medium," and "small" rungs on the board. I didn't know what that meant when i made my board, but according to Metolius, that'd come down to 1 1/4", 1", and 3/4" respectively. I do have some 3/4" rungs on the wall, but they are currently a cool-looking decoration. This workout calls for workouts on the large and medium rungs. I don't have anything that size. The next size up i have, i made out of routed 2x4s, so they come out to be 1 1/2"-- extra-large, i s'pose. And i felt good about being able to hang from those.

Did about 4 sets (two leading with each hand) of matching ladders for about four rungs, then 4 sets of basic ladders. Very hard, even without the medium rungs. I do plan to order some though.

I had some fear that this was on the same sort of schedule as the hangboarding: i.e. same workout every 3 days. But it ain't. It's campusing, then 2 full rest days, then limit bouldering, then one rest day, and repeat. Limit bouldering tomorrow, and i truly look forward to that.

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

HB #7 (Final)

Actually did a hangboard workout at the appropriate interval for once. Interesting workout and interesting day. This was the last HB workout for the season, so i wanted to get it right and go to the next phase psyched and strong. As such, i went in yesterday and worked a couple of limit boulder problems 'til my hands were mushy. Today i very intentionally didn't touch the climbin' wall; but to get the humours flowin', i did a tabata workout--same as last time. That went ok (excepting the doofus that decided to use my decline crunch bench as i was about to go to that, so that i had to do a third set of straight leg raises instead). Then i did some not-terribly-heavy DB rows and DB OH press. Then to work. Home again. Weighed in pre-workout at 199. And the HB sesh:

Set 1:  Warm-up jug:  -10:  Easy. Bit distracted.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -15#: Kinda easy. This was a 5# increase. Nice vibe.

Set 3:  Medium Edge (semi-closed):  -20#:  Kept this the same. felt a lot easier though. Li'l hard at the end. Not bad.

Set 4:  Medium pinch:  -20#:  Fairly easy. Again, a 5# increase. That's happy juice.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  This was very hard. No fail. Nearly...

Set 6:  Large open-hand edge:  -10#:  Very hard. Failed last rep. Taped prox to the F2 DIP for this un, and it helped.

Set 7:  Wide pinch:  -45#:  Untaped F2 for this. Very hard. Felt great at first, then failed on the last 3 reps.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -5#:  Very hard. Failed in the last half-second of the last rep.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  Hard. Dug deep, and no fail. Another 5# increase.  :)


It would be hard to think how i could be more pleased with how this season has gone so far. In three weeks (give or take) i've added 10-15 lbs to nearly every grip on the roster, excepting i think wide pinch-- and i've gotten noticeably stronger on that one. And i've felt the gains crossing over into the boulder sessions. Looking forward to sending some hard lines in October.

Next comes power phase and the campusing. Li'l nervous 'bout that...

Sunday, August 31, 2014

HB #6, or whatever

Today i did yesterday's HB workout. That is because yesterday i went climbing with a friend, and we worked some routes. And my hands felt very much like arthritic poo. Beautiful place, Cascade; but a li'l harder "warmup" than i was wanting to do for hangboardin'.

SO: got 'er done this evening.

Set 1:  Warm-up Jug:  -10#:  Harder today. Still easy. Feelin' yesterday.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -20#:  Kept this the same today in view of ensuing increases for coming sets. Hard at the last rep, but not very hard. Increase next time.

Set 3:  Medium edge (semi-closed):  -20#:  This was a 5# increase. Definitely harder, but no fail. :)

Set 4:  Medium pinch:  -25#:  Hardish, but no fail. Increase.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Failed last rep. Very hard. Again, definitely feeling yesterday. Hurt from the first rep, so i think it went surprisingly well.

Set 6:  Large open hand edge:  -10#:  Hard. Failed last 2 reps. Mostly painful. Need to tape F2 prox to  DIP.

Set 7:  Wide pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed last 2 reps. Suffering for yesterday.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -5#:  Very hard, but about right. Failed last few secs of last rep.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -30#:  Hard, but no fail. If i were feelin' my oats next time, could increase.

This was a happily good workout considering yesterday's intensity. One HB workout to go. We'll see if i can actually pull it off on the correct day. At any rate, i'm loving this hangboarding deal. Definitely getting stronger.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Ancillary Day

I've been recording the "supportive" workouts as more of a side note on hangboard days. But today's was rugged enough to deserve its own post.

Went in for some ARCing, and it was hard. Ended up doing 30 mins, but i actually peeled several times. Very tired.

Then i tried some bouldering, and that was not great.

Then i ventured into the irongym. Seems like my last iron workout was 2 months (+/-) ago. First did a tabata workout that went surprisingly well. That's 20 secs/workout with 10 secs of rest in between for 4 different workouts each set, then do it again for a total of 4 mins of pain. Did pullups, hanging straight leg raises, dips, and decline crunches. For set 1 i got 17 pullups, 18 SLRs, i think 17 dips, and about 18ish crunches. Set 2 got 12 pullups, i think 11 SLRs, maybe 10 or 11 dips, and around 14 crunches. Good ol' sweaty time.

Then i did the warmup for my deadlift workout: 21 floor touches, 21 straight leg deads with just the bar, 12 with 145# straight leg, 8 with 245# straight leg, 5 with 345# regular, all from a deficit with 25# plates. Didn't venture up to the usual 445#. No need for paraplegia. Prolly gunna pay for what i did do just plenty. But i have fa sho lost me some back strength. Good workout, notwithstanding.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

HB #5 (or, technically, 6)

Yesterday i went to the gym and did a 20 min ARC session, and then bouldered some new routes. Kinda encouraging 'cuz i can tell my hands are stronger. Did manage to keep it reasonably light.

Today was [what i'm calling] HB workout numma 5.

Set 1:  Warmup Jug:  -10#:  Hmmm...easy, but a li'l stale.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -20#:  This was a 5# increase from last time. Harder, but still fairly easy. And that's encouraging.

Set 3:  Medium Edge (SemiClosed):  -25#:  Again, a 5# increase. Definitely harder--maybe even hard; but no fail.

Set 4:  Medium Pinch:  -30#:  Left this the same, and it felt easier than last time. Li'l hard at the end, but no fail. Could probably increase here. Huh.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Very hard. No fail, but close.

Set 6:  Large open-hand Edge:  -10#:  No increase here. And, again, i took F2 to the inner dimple, and this time from the first rep. This felt very hard. No fail though.

Set 7:  Wide Pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed on the last rep. Still better'n the last workout a smidge.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -whatever the plate pin weighs:  This was a 10# increase--maybe a little hubris here. Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -30#:  5# increase. Had to dig deep, but didn't fail.

Very good workout over all-- way better than i had a right to expect. Increased my resistance in 4 of 9 grips.

Weighed in before at 200.2#, clothes, shoes, and a steak sandwich included. EI scale yesterday said i'm at 15.8% body fat. That's down from 17.5%, so i'll take it as a gain.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Week 2ish (Sun. HB #5)

Right. So this one was supposed to happen on Saturday, but didn't 'cuz we'd stayed up the night before with a sick horse. And that worked out ok, as i'd done too hard a "recovery" day on Thurs anyhow.  Didn't want to do the workout again last night 'cuz i'd been putting up fencing all day yesterday, and my hand hurt going into it-- wasn't sure how it would go. But i'm glad i did it, and it was a really encouraging workout.

Set 1:  Warmup Jug:  -10#:  Easy.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -25#:  Felt easy. Failed on these on Wednesday. This time i did 'em at night, and the not-90deg coolness made a huge difference. Felt like i could'a' gone harder.

Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed):  -30#:  Little hard, but no fail. Could increase.

Set 4:  Medium Pinch:  -30#:  Hard at the end, but no fail.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Very hard, but no fail. Failed miserably on these on Wed with -45#, but on a whim i bumped the resistance up, and this was right on. Still kinda cut into my pinkie cuticles, so i'ma hafta figure out what's up and sand it down.

Set 6:  Large open-hand edge:  -10#:  Same weight, but i took F2 to the inner dimple 'stead of F3, and that definitely made it harder. No fail though.

Set 7:  Wide pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed at the very end of the last two reps. That's still a bump upward from the last coupla workouts.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -10#:  Li'l hard on the last rep. Should increase.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -35#:  Fairly easy, and with a smile. These felt way hard last time, so this was a happy increase.

Takeaways: First of all, it's striking how much difference 10 or 15 degrees of calor'll change things.

Second, it's striking how some very sore, blistered, worn out hands from hammering with a post driver didn't affect m' hangboarding. At all. Almost odd, really.

Finally, this was a good workout. Dug pretty deep, but it was there to be mined. This was fer sure a step upward.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Thurs (Zwischenzug)

So then, following direction in The Manual, i thought i could pull off an easy day of ARCing yesterday with the idea that i'd rest up today to hang again tomorrow. And i did ARC--20+ mins.

Then i just hit every boulder problem in the place, ran out and started making up hard problems, and working 'em with some friends. I suspect that will prove to have been a terrible idea. I might have hurt my R ring finger, but i know i ground my hands to meatloaf. Miiiiight not be the best workout tomorrow. But we'll see. Still felt good to pull hard, even if it was an act of undisciplined self-indulgence.

Maybe i'll go fishing tomorrow.

Today, at least, is a guaranteed day of sloth and healing.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Hangboard and some HIIT

To catch up, Monday la hija y yo did our first Tabata workout. We got our booties kicked.

Before that, i did a sprint workout with the ol' HR monitor. That kicked my butt too. Did a 6ish minute warmup in the 140s, then set the timer and sprinted 20secs on with 10 secs rest for 6 intervals, then cooled down on the way back home. Short, sweet, and it drained me like the outta shape cow i am.

So-- the Tabata: It's 20 secs of exercise, hard as you can go, followed by 10 secs of rest, then next exercise. Four exercises in all, finish and repeat the whole thing for-- i think the whole session lasts 4mins in all.

Workouts were pullups, hanging leg raises, pushups, and hanging crunches (with the gravity boots).

First set of p'lups went swimmingly: got maybe 17. HLRs hurt pretty much from the get go as i've not activated my abdominal wall in many moons. Think i got 15 or so. Pushups were predictably embarrassing, but i got 18 or so. Hanging crunches... i looked like a quivering sloth. I could do these by grabbing my thighs and cheating. Don't really know why, cuz i've done em before. But i felt nearly paralyzed.

Second set: Pullups were off. I was having trouble remembering my identity or why i was doing any of this by now. Think i summoned 5 or 6 before i just hung there staring helplessly at the bar. HLRs...i think i managed some. Sad. Pushups, i think i might have been crying--don't remember-- but i got a few. Hanging Crunches were-- if they could get more amusing than the first set, they did. I did get some blood to my skull. And i may have cheated out a few.

I think i'd be skinnier if i did this workout frequently.

Yesterday (Tues) i climbed with the kids. So i didn't get a lotta climbing done. That was ok, 'cuz i slept like poo the night prior, and felt just as i'd slept. Did pull down a few decent boulder problems. This was supposed to be a warmup for a hangboard sesh, but i was not feeling it. Didn't happen. On the bright side, Annie led her first couple o' climbs like a champ. Chick's got some skeelz.

Did do the hangboard workout today. As above, this was supposed to happen yesterday, but only because i've slid off schedule by a day. Yesterday woulda' put me two days out from the last session, and that honestly wouldn't have been enough rest. So i'm ok with having put it off. Better sesh today than it'd otherwise have been yesterday.

Set 1: Warm-up Jug:  -10:  Easy peasy

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -25: This was up from -30# last time. Felt hard on last rep, but no fail.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed):  -30:  Hard on last rep but no fail. Consider increasing next time.

Set 4: Medium Pinch:  -30:  Whole set i felt i could go heavier, felt easy, but then i failed on the last rep 'cuz it was so dang hot, and i sweated off.

Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -45:  Failed on the last 3 reps.

Set 6: Large open-hand edge:  -10:  Felt tired, but also very hot, and i dechalked.

Set 7: Wide pinch:  -45:  Very hot. Failed on last 4 reps. That's in spite of taking an extra 5# off.

Set 8: Sloper:  -10: Here i increased by 5#. Felt very hard. Failed on last 2 reps, again mostly 'cuz of the heat.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -35:  Here again i increased by 5 # from last sesh. Very hard, and i failed on last 2 reps; but again, prolly cuz of the sweat factor. Otherwise i don't think i'd'a failed.

Overall a decent session. I have a fan i want to install on the wall. I do think that'd help--'specially for daytime sessions. A lotta these sets didn't feel hard as much as they felt impossible 'cuz of sweat. I'll probably keep my weights the same for the next session and see if it goes better if it's just not so hot. 'Bout getting weights reasonably dialed in.


Sunday, August 17, 2014

Hangin' On (session 3)

I still haven't managed to get a hangboard session in on the correct day. Was supposed to have done this workout yesterday, but just wasn't feelin' it. Worked out just fine: had a really good sesh of it; but i'd'a' like to have seen what she feels like to do the workouts 3 days apart 'stead o' 4. Next time p'r'aps.

Set 1: Warm up jug: -10#  No change here. Easy.

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -30#  This was a 5# increase (up from -35#). No fail, still felt easy. Could still go heavier next time.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#  Again, hard, but didn't fail. Might try -25# next time.

Set 4: Medium pinch: -30#  Added weight this time from -25#. Hard but no fail. Stick with that one more session, then back to -25#.

Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45#  Failed at the very hairy end of the last rep. Very hard. Felt 'bout right.

Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#  This time i moved outward to 3rd finger on middle dimple top edge. Harder but no fail.

Set 7: Wide pinch: -40#  Failed toward the middle of the last 3 reps. Very painful on the skin at the 4th MCP. Tape better next time. Otherwise 'bout right.

Set 8: Sloper: -15#  Easy 'til the chalk wore off.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#  Hardish, but no fail. Taped my pinkies better this time, and it helped.

Overall good workout. Still have some weights to dial, but this was a lot closer. Man, i only thought deadlifts were mental. Talking meself outta putting a toe down on the ground with 2ish seconds left in the rep and i can feel my skin tearing or slipping--- that's mental.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Mulligan (Wk 6ish)

After taking just over a week between my first two hangboard workouts, i'm calling a redo. I've gotten off track and schedule, but i'm gunna go ahead and not care. I was planning to post up about how lazy and low i've sunk in order to inspire me to get back to work; but instead i dragged me out to the barn and worked out.

Got my new hangboard up, and worked out on it tonight. Really good workout, and i'm actually psyched to hit it even harder. Got a timer for my phone that doesn't suck, and i tweaked the pulleys, and that went a long way toward alleviating the irritation factor. Also, i actually wrote on my workout during the rests, which is something i haven't done in years, and it kinda rocked. I'm gunna do that every time, methinks. That's really the reason i set up this blog and the other.

Right then-- the workout:

Set 1: warm up jug: -10#: Just fine

Set 2: F2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Didn't feel too hard. Coulda gone a li'l heavier.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#: This was hard, but i got 'em all.

Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Very hard. Failed on the last 2 sets.

Set 5: F3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Massive fail. Need to take off more weight. Also i think my tape was slipping off.

Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: No fail, but hard at the end.

Set 7: Wide pinch: -30# for r1-3, then -35#: Massive fail. Take off 40# next time.

Set 8: Sloper: -15#: Hard. Failed on last rep.

Set 9: F3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#: No fail, but hard. Pinkies hurt. Needed tape.

Of note, i didn't count the weight of my hanging pin for the weights. Probably weighs another 5ish #. Going to take a few more sessions to get my weights dialed, but this was a happy workout.

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Week 5 (hangboard wk 1)

So far this has not gone well. Was supposed to do my first hangboard workout last saturday, but i didn't get to. Did the first one on Tues, which shoulda been workout #2. Was supposed to do the third (or, in the case of having skipped the first, the second) workout yesterday; but i didn't. No time, minimal energy, and nowhere to warm up. This'll happen, but i might stretch it out an extra week to get all the workouts in. Based on the singular HB workout i've squeezed in so far, i  'spect this'll by far be the game-changing phase for me. Tuesday's workout destroyed my hands. Friggin' nuclear meltdown. Lemme see if i can accurately(ish) recount said for posterity.

The workout is 9 sets (each set being a different grip) of 6 reps. Each rep is a 10 sec hang with 5 secs' rest between--so there's really no time to rechalk or shake much between reps. 3 mins' rest between sets. Supposed to take weight off me with pulleys as needed in order to barely be able to finish each set.  I fully accomplished the barely-completing-each-set bit, but i definitely need to dial the weights i'm using. Fingers 2-4 are used (thumb not included), and i'll number 'em thus when needed for ease.

Set 1: warm up jug ---Got all these, BW

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket ---Think i took 35# off, and these were still sad.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi closed) ---Think i took 10 off for these, and it wain't enough: fail

Set 4: Medium pinch --- BW. Using the SoIll ironpalm for this, and it's not a good pinch. Got em though

Set 5: F 3,4 pocket --- Took off the 35# again. Not enough. Suck-ed

Set 6: Large open-hand edge --- Don't think i took weight off for these. The edge on my board needs sanding, and these took some flesh off

Set 7: Wide pinch --- Again on the IronPalm: Not a good pinch. Got em

Set 8: Sloper --- used the Metolius Similator. I think i thought i could get these without weight off, and i ended up failing before the end.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 pocket --- took off 35# or so. Hating life through these.


Main take-aways here: 1) i've already ordered a Trango RP board. It kinda amazes me that i have maybe 5 hangboards to select from, and i can't really find the appropriate holds for some basic hanging among them.
2) i gotta dial my weights in a bit better. This will be much easier when i can do my whole workout on one board instead of toggling, cuz i won't have to jack with my pulley system as much during rest intervals. 3) i gotta come up with a more efficient way of warming up. Had a huge lag time between the gym and my boards for this session, and that's not so bueno. Hopefully i'll have time to get some usable routes up on the Moon Wall.

And i hafta do this more often. i can see how this is the stuff that strong climbers are made from.

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Week 4 and a tri

i managed to fail on Thursday's enduro work. Went in to do my 2 30min sets of ARCing and got sucked into a bouldering session with a friend. Would have rather done the ARCing, but it was a fun break. i'm not gunna beat me up too bad for the sidestep.

So then i get a call on friday to do a sprint triathlon with a friend. 500y swim, 13mi bike, and 5K run. Hadn't been on a bike with any seriousness since last summer (and that was mountain biking), hadn't run even once since last October, and hadn't swam for 2+ years, so my expectations were low. He roped me in cuz he was doing it on a mt bike with only platform pedals; so i figured i wouldn't be alone off the podium.

But i ended up doing very very respectably: Got a 1:23:30ish overall.

Hair over 8mins on the swim, and i was just hoping i could stay in the vicinity of 10mins. So i averaged just over 48 sec 50s.  Very respectable for an elderly fat guy.

The bike truly shocked me, and made me glow. 13 miles, and i got it in 29mins and change. And i got stopped at the beginning waiting on a train, which tacked at least a minute onto my time. So i averaged somewhere around 27mph on the bike, and my rear derailleur was jacked and stuck. i mean, to put it into perspective, i was hoping (without knowing the course) that i could average around 20mph. Thirteen miles is over 20K (i.e. 12.4mi) and a fast time--even for the hardcore--for a 40K is breaking an hour; so i was on pace for a career highlight ride on no training at all. I'm gonna conjecture that the Lord nudged me up some of the hills with a fairly stiff tailwind. And i'm thankful.

The run went pretty much according to expectation. I was figuring on 10min miles, and i got it in just under 30mins. So i did do better than 10min miles, but only just.

At any rate, i was so flippin' ecstatic with how that went that i want to actually maybe train for tri again, and do some more soon. I can't help but feel like i coulda actually grabbed some podium if i'd have trained even a li'l bit within the last two years. Vamos a ver.


Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Week 4 day 2

Made it through the second of the long back-to-back ARC seshes. And that went just swimmingly. Except that some kid was determined to make me fall off  the wall, and at one point actually put his hand in my chalk bag. i just looked over at his mom, who stared on in abject complacency, and i continued climbing after asking him to please not do that. Freak.

Then he came up later and let me know that it was probably about time to clip my toenails.

Nevertheless, i did 3 sets of 30 mins on the Olde Wall with 10 mins rest or less between. Tomorrow's just two sets. There's a light at the end of the tunnel.

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Week 3 and 1/3 of week 4

Didn't get to post last week. Just no time, or motivation or such.

Got in 3 days (Tues, Wed, and Thurs) of ARCing last week (wk 3) with 3 sets of 25mins on Tues and Wed, and 2 sets of 25 mins on Thurs. Also got in a short mountain bike ride before climbing on Thurs.

Did end up somehow hurting my thumb, but i don't know how. Still kinda feeling that, but it seems to be healing.

Once again, i didn't manage to get in any outdoor routes over the weekend. But i can live with that-- my hands still feel like ground sausage.

Today i got in the first ARCing of week 4: three sets of 30 mins with about 10 mins rest between. And now i'm hurting. But i made it through, and i feel good about that.

Got the same coming up tomorrow, and 2 sets of 30 mins on Thurs. If i make it through this week, i shall feel i've built some real character. And i believe i have my first proper hangboard workout coming up at the end of the week. Kinda looking forward to that.

Friday, July 18, 2014

Aaaand week 2

Did get in 2 sets of 30 mins' ARCing yesterday, with about 10 mins rest between. That was encouraging. Actually felt good; and that was surprising after how dull and detached and wasted i felt on Tues. Gives me hope that this thang could look up. Actually felt way stronger than usual. Even got done and went and did some quick pullups, dips, and tire flippin'.

Haven't got in any outdoor mileage this week, and that's not looking to improve o'er the weekend. But these next two weeks are looking to be brutal, workout-wise. And my work schedule should reduce to normal again. So i'm not too bent outta shape. Making progress. Making progress. Making progress.

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Into week 2

Yeah, this week is < fun. No time. Did manage to get in the ARC workout yesterday. 2 sets of 30mins with about 10mins o' rest between. Did not feel particularly strong. Didn't climb at all over the weekend, so i was hoping to at least be very well rested, but i really felt like dropping off the wall after about 5 mins of the first set. But i made it through. Got another of the same (2 x 30mins) tomorrow.

Tired of this week. But i do like the ARC seshes. Pretty relaxing, as far as sucking wind and sweating like a beaten race horse goes. And i am grabbing stuff and yarding on it--even tired--that i wouldn't have given any serious thought to a few weeks ago.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Week one

ARCin' today: Plan called for 2 sets of 25mins, and i did 2 sets of 30 mins with maybe 5 or so mins between. Went in a li'l early to get it all in, and was hoping for an iron workout, but i still was racing to work. No iron. Just climbing. But it sho did feel better than last week. i can believe i might just see some big gains from this enduro work.

Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Rest

Went in to the klettergym yesterday afternoon for some routes. Did a nice long traverse warmup, found a friend and threw down a 5.9ish warmup, then started workin' a proj. Got another friend in on the action, and we started working 'er properly. I finally got the send on about the fourth burn, which felt very very terribly awfully good.

I'm not good at rating that sort of climb. Short (25-30'), very thin balancy start to a very good shake out, to a v4/5 boulder crux. I'd guess it's conservatively 11c/d, but i ain't sure.

At any rate, i hauled a lofty percentage of my lard up on a slopey, half-pad right hand pinch more times than i can remember whilst unlocking the sequence, and that made for a pretty fine day o' climbing--2 routes in total notwithstanding.

Tomorrow it's s'posed to be another ARCing day. And maybe some weights.

Monday, July 7, 2014

Start Day

Friday got to go climbing with a friend in Durango. Did four routes, but they were ferlippin' pumpy suckas, and while i hung on every single route at least once, i still felt pretty good about the day. Veeeeery nice to get on some real rock again and take some decent falls. Can already tell it's been helping me in the gym--especially with my footwork.

Today i ARCd. Was gunna do 2 sets of 30 mins, but i was running late for work and did 1 x 30 and 1 x 20 with about 5mins rest between. And i was torched. And to be fair, the workout i'm doing only called for 2 sets of 20mins. But my fingers and forearms didn't feel damaged, and that's been a big fear. Right ring finger flexor's been feeling on the edge of rupture, and sat and sun i was feeling some righteous golfer's elbow on the left. Seems to have subsided with glucosamine, tons of fish oil, Tiger Balm and generous taping. On looking at the calendar, i guess i wasn't supposed to do this workout 'til tomorrow, but that wouldn't work terribly well. Should have a rest day tomorrow.

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

ketchup

Haven't posted in a bit, but i haven't done much. Haven't lifted in a coupla weeks, but i'm planning to--hopefully tomorrow. Did go climbing on real rock after church on sunday, and that was a good time. Gotta get my head back into clipping up the real stuff. i'm used to having my holds conveniently pointed out in high-contrast relief to the ambient wall. This feeling-around-for-a-hold stuff... i dunno. But i am gunna say i'm a li'l stronger than the last time i was on real rock. Got about three routes up.

Went in on monday to ARC, but got taken by a bunch of new routes at the gym, and ended up doing those instead. Still made for a good climbing day.

Pretty much haven't done anything else. Am making some good headway on the Moonboard.