Friday i went in to route set, and eked a pretty good limit boulder sesh out of the deal. Powerful workout, really.
Last night i did Campus 4. Very good session, all said and done.
L)
Basic Ladder:
Got it both.
1,4,5:
L: Got it.
R: Got it.
1,4,6:
L: Nope. Million miles away.
R: Got it!
L: Yessiree Bob!
M)
1,4,5:
L: Yeah! Got it first go.
R: Nope. Twisted wrong.
R: No. Urgh!
S)
1,2,3:
L: with a dab
R: got one! That's exciting! There's hope.
M)
1,4,5:
R: Missed. :(
Bumps 1, 2-3-4:
L: Missed 4
R: Got it!
L: got it.
1, 3-4-5:
L: Missed the 5
R: Ditto
L: Tired. Same.
R: Barely missed.
L)
Matching Ladder 1,4,7:
L: got it!
R: Got it!
M)
Basic Ladder 1-6:
R: Got it!
L: Got it!
This was a good one. Very mental, campusing. But i'm making gains, even if slowly. And i think i got several more sets in, which is very encouraging. It's becoming more of a game or a workout than just injury avoidance, and it's translating to the climbing really well. I'm yarding my flabby butt up pretty calmly on stuff that would have destroyed my tendons not too long ago. That's happy sauce.
Monday, October 26, 2015
Tuesday, October 20, 2015
Limit Boulder #2, Yank n Yard, and Campus #3
Last wednesday (10/14) did a Limit Boulder sesh, although i kept it really light in front of the comp. 'Fact, i kept it light enough that i don't remember what i did. Guess it was mostly a piddly bouldering sesh. Anyway, good times.
Skipped Friday's Campus session 'cuz of YnY looming. That was a bit inspiring, as always. Got 6th in age group, and missed at least a place by a single finish hold. Ah well: Still a ton of fun, and Annie kicked some butt and took some names. I was so surprised by what she can climb with no training whatsoever-- man. Weird comp though. Every route i got, i flashed. There were so many people that there was no way to work a route. It'd be 15 mins between burns. Very odd. But still fun.
Tonight i did Campus #3. Started out kinda sketchy: getting chilly (which i've been looking forward to for some time) and i'm way sleep-deprived so it took a minute to get warmed up and serious. Did fire up the heater, and made some gains. :)
L)
Basic Ladder: good both.
1,4,5:
L: yup
R: yup
1,4,6:
L: Missed.
R: Missed
L: Missed. Very discouraging.
R: Got it! Very not discouraging.
L: Yeah. got it!
M)
1,4,5
L: Yeah! First try
R: Missed. Waited too long.
R: Got it! Better.
S)
1,3
L: Missed
R: Nope
L: Nope, but i jumped and stuck it. Couldn't match.
R: Ditto.
M)
Bump 1, 2-3-4
L: Missed 4
R: same
1, 3-4-5
L: Missed the 5
R: Same. Touched it but no stick.
L: Ugh.
R: Veeeery close.
L)
Matching Ladder
1, 4, 7
got it with both hands.
Very good workout. Feel during the workout that i'm not making the progress i want to see, but i'm making definite progress.
Skipped Friday's Campus session 'cuz of YnY looming. That was a bit inspiring, as always. Got 6th in age group, and missed at least a place by a single finish hold. Ah well: Still a ton of fun, and Annie kicked some butt and took some names. I was so surprised by what she can climb with no training whatsoever-- man. Weird comp though. Every route i got, i flashed. There were so many people that there was no way to work a route. It'd be 15 mins between burns. Very odd. But still fun.
Tonight i did Campus #3. Started out kinda sketchy: getting chilly (which i've been looking forward to for some time) and i'm way sleep-deprived so it took a minute to get warmed up and serious. Did fire up the heater, and made some gains. :)
L)
Basic Ladder: good both.
1,4,5:
L: yup
R: yup
1,4,6:
L: Missed.
R: Missed
L: Missed. Very discouraging.
R: Got it! Very not discouraging.
L: Yeah. got it!
M)
1,4,5
L: Yeah! First try
R: Missed. Waited too long.
R: Got it! Better.
S)
1,3
L: Missed
R: Nope
L: Nope, but i jumped and stuck it. Couldn't match.
R: Ditto.
M)
Bump 1, 2-3-4
L: Missed 4
R: same
1, 3-4-5
L: Missed the 5
R: Same. Touched it but no stick.
L: Ugh.
R: Veeeery close.
L)
Matching Ladder
1, 4, 7
got it with both hands.
Very good workout. Feel during the workout that i'm not making the progress i want to see, but i'm making definite progress.
Sunday, October 11, 2015
Limit Boulder #1 and Campus #2
Bouldered a bit on friday (10/9) and did work a limit problem for a while. Really not much in the way of warmup problems set up there, so i ARCd for a few minutes and then got to it. Really didn't go too hard, but it was a fine workout anyhow. Need to set more limity problems. Did just order a bunch more holds for the college, so i should have some material with which to set shortly.
Did campus #2 today, and that went just superdeeduper well. Weighed in at 198 clothed. Bonus.
Usual warmup. Skipped the XL rungs today, and went for some Basic ladders on the L rungs.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: Got it first try!! Never got this leading L last time.
R: Same--first go. :)
M)
1,4,5:
L: Missed the match.
R: Sorta got it after a fail.
L: GOT IT!
R: Missed.
L: Missed.
R: Got it :)
S)
1-2:
L: with a dab
R: ditto.
Did 3 or 4 sets of that. Did feel a little better on these this time.
Went back to L for some bumps.
L)
1,4, bump 5:
L: Meh.
R: Yeah. hard. Failed on 5.
1,3, bump 4, bump 5:
L: Missed 5 again.
R: Ditto.
Repeated this twice more. Did finally snag it leading R.
Yeah. So some improvements just since the first go 'round. Diet's going ok for now too. Got Yank 'n' Yard coming up net weekend. We'll see how this translates. Li'l bit psyched.
Did campus #2 today, and that went just superdeeduper well. Weighed in at 198 clothed. Bonus.
Usual warmup. Skipped the XL rungs today, and went for some Basic ladders on the L rungs.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: Got it first try!! Never got this leading L last time.
R: Same--first go. :)
M)
1,4,5:
L: Missed the match.
R: Sorta got it after a fail.
L: GOT IT!
R: Missed.
L: Missed.
R: Got it :)
S)
1-2:
L: with a dab
R: ditto.
Did 3 or 4 sets of that. Did feel a little better on these this time.
Went back to L for some bumps.
L)
1,4, bump 5:
L: Meh.
R: Yeah. hard. Failed on 5.
1,3, bump 4, bump 5:
L: Missed 5 again.
R: Ditto.
Repeated this twice more. Did finally snag it leading R.
Yeah. So some improvements just since the first go 'round. Diet's going ok for now too. Got Yank 'n' Yard coming up net weekend. We'll see how this translates. Li'l bit psyched.
Wednesday, October 7, 2015
Season 4 Campus #1
Did Campus #1 yesterday (10/6). Not a bad workout, really. Think i've lost a little contact strength, but it's hard to say whether it's strength or coordination. not far at all from where i left off, at any rate. Could see some gains this go-round. Weighed in at 200lb for it.
Warmed up with pushups, pullups, ring dips, rows, SLRs and toe touches. Got on the hangboard to wake the nubbins up. XL rungs for a basic ladder up and down. Then to the L.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: fail
R: Got it!
L: fail x 2. Couldn't seem to twist correctly for this. Dropped back to 1,4,5 and got it.
M)
1,4:
L: fail
R: fail
L: stuck 4, but no match.
R: Ditto
1,3,5:
L: got it!
R: ditto. Much better.\
Went back to 1,4 for 2 more sets each hand. Couldn't manage to match either hand, but very close.
Then back to 1,3,5 and matched B, no problem.
S)
1,2: Matched both hands with a dab. Two sets of that.
Yeah: not far off of where i stopped last season. After this i went and worked a boulder problem for a while at the gym. Got a limit boulder sesh coming up shortly, so we'll see if yesterday's work proves detrimental.
Warmed up with pushups, pullups, ring dips, rows, SLRs and toe touches. Got on the hangboard to wake the nubbins up. XL rungs for a basic ladder up and down. Then to the L.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: fail
R: Got it!
L: fail x 2. Couldn't seem to twist correctly for this. Dropped back to 1,4,5 and got it.
M)
1,4:
L: fail
R: fail
L: stuck 4, but no match.
R: Ditto
1,3,5:
L: got it!
R: ditto. Much better.\
Went back to 1,4 for 2 more sets each hand. Couldn't manage to match either hand, but very close.
Then back to 1,3,5 and matched B, no problem.
S)
1,2: Matched both hands with a dab. Two sets of that.
Yeah: not far off of where i stopped last season. After this i went and worked a boulder problem for a while at the gym. Got a limit boulder sesh coming up shortly, so we'll see if yesterday's work proves detrimental.
Thursday, October 1, 2015
Hangboard #9 (last one for season 4)
Definitely feeling tired today. Really could'a' used another day of rest. But G&M are coming, so i figured it was either now or not at all. Really do seem to heal better and get better workouts in if i take 3 full days off instead of 2 about every other rest period. Might intentionally plan that next season.
Since this is the last hangboard sesh, i think i'll take the space and detail everything. Weighed in at 200.0lbs tonight pre-workout. Seems to work best to tape only f 3&4 on the present grips. Also went back and looked at HB#9 from last season. That, at least, is encouraging.
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open:
1: +35 (+5): Hard. No fail.
2: +45 (same): Failed last rep. Bleh. This is a change from +17.5 & +27.5 respectively last season. Using the inner dimple at f2.
F 3,4:
1: -35 (same): Fail last two. Seemed the taped was slipping, so i detaped after this.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 3. Just plain tired. Can't compare this one 'cuz i'm using the shallowest pocket on the board.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): OK. Hard.
2: +10 (+5): Got two clean. Prolly a li'l ambitious. Mighty hard. Up from -20 and -10 last season. happy gain. Using the outside dimple at f3.
F 2,3,4:
1: BW (+>5): No fail. :))
2: +10 (same): Failed last second last rep. Can't compare last season cuz i'm using the shallow scalloped pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Better. Fail last 1.5ish.
2: -25 (same): Don't quite know...failed last 3-4ish. Compare to -45 & -35 respectively last season.
Slopa':
1: +25 (same): Good grief! failed last 3.
2: +45 (+5): 'Cuz why not go big? Very happy. Failed last 1.5. Compare to BW and +10 last season. That is a 35lb bump. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (same): OK. failed last 2.
2: -45 (same): Big fail last two or three. Still, compare to -70 and -60 last season. Good stuff.
Funny, 'cuz i felt like i didn't make as steep gains as i imagined i might; but there were some huge gains compared to the same point last season, and on nearly every grip. Nothing to be too downcast about here. Just gotta figure out how to lose some weight now. Yank n Yard's coming up in a few weeks.
Since this is the last hangboard sesh, i think i'll take the space and detail everything. Weighed in at 200.0lbs tonight pre-workout. Seems to work best to tape only f 3&4 on the present grips. Also went back and looked at HB#9 from last season. That, at least, is encouraging.
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open:
1: +35 (+5): Hard. No fail.
2: +45 (same): Failed last rep. Bleh. This is a change from +17.5 & +27.5 respectively last season. Using the inner dimple at f2.
F 3,4:
1: -35 (same): Fail last two. Seemed the taped was slipping, so i detaped after this.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 3. Just plain tired. Can't compare this one 'cuz i'm using the shallowest pocket on the board.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): OK. Hard.
2: +10 (+5): Got two clean. Prolly a li'l ambitious. Mighty hard. Up from -20 and -10 last season. happy gain. Using the outside dimple at f3.
F 2,3,4:
1: BW (+>5): No fail. :))
2: +10 (same): Failed last second last rep. Can't compare last season cuz i'm using the shallow scalloped pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Better. Fail last 1.5ish.
2: -25 (same): Don't quite know...failed last 3-4ish. Compare to -45 & -35 respectively last season.
Slopa':
1: +25 (same): Good grief! failed last 3.
2: +45 (+5): 'Cuz why not go big? Very happy. Failed last 1.5. Compare to BW and +10 last season. That is a 35lb bump. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (same): OK. failed last 2.
2: -45 (same): Big fail last two or three. Still, compare to -70 and -60 last season. Good stuff.
Funny, 'cuz i felt like i didn't make as steep gains as i imagined i might; but there were some huge gains compared to the same point last season, and on nearly every grip. Nothing to be too downcast about here. Just gotta figure out how to lose some weight now. Yank n Yard's coming up in a few weeks.
Monday, September 28, 2015
Hangboard #8
Right: So i might could'a' used an extra day. This was not a wash of a workout; but it could've gone better in a few key bits.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +30 (same): No fail, but hard.
2: +45 (+5): Odd. i think my foot touched down before the buzzer, but hard to call that a fail. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -35 (+5): Big ol' fail) on the last two. Untaped f4 just prior. I'm not sure if i was slipping on the remaining tape, or was feeling the skin tearing where i'd untaped.
2: -25 (same): Ugh. Really failed on the last three, although the last one wasn't a bad attempt. this was where i really felt the frayed tendons creaking, and was wishing for an extra day of healing.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): No fail.
2: BW (+>5): Failed on the last 3. Not horrible.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (same): No fail.
2: +10 (+5): No fail (!!!) That's a propa' gain.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on r6 and not r7. Had to rechalk in there.
2: -20 (+5): Made the first three. Failed the last three, but kept the pressure on. Hardhard.
Sloper:
1: +25 (same): Really tired for this. Failed last 3. Kinda demoralizing.
2: +40 (+5): Failed really on the last 1.2 reps. Weird.That was a good set.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (+5): Failed last 2.5 reps. Not sure what drove me to put 5lb more on, but it worked out just fine.
2: -45 (same): Failed on the last 2 for sure. Not bad. After the set before, I was truly shocked.
So: no really big gains, some some gains nonetheless. Now for the last session of the season... :)
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +30 (same): No fail, but hard.
2: +45 (+5): Odd. i think my foot touched down before the buzzer, but hard to call that a fail. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -35 (+5): Big ol' fail) on the last two. Untaped f4 just prior. I'm not sure if i was slipping on the remaining tape, or was feeling the skin tearing where i'd untaped.
2: -25 (same): Ugh. Really failed on the last three, although the last one wasn't a bad attempt. this was where i really felt the frayed tendons creaking, and was wishing for an extra day of healing.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): No fail.
2: BW (+>5): Failed on the last 3. Not horrible.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (same): No fail.
2: +10 (+5): No fail (!!!) That's a propa' gain.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on r6 and not r7. Had to rechalk in there.
2: -20 (+5): Made the first three. Failed the last three, but kept the pressure on. Hardhard.
Sloper:
1: +25 (same): Really tired for this. Failed last 3. Kinda demoralizing.
2: +40 (+5): Failed really on the last 1.2 reps. Weird.That was a good set.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (+5): Failed last 2.5 reps. Not sure what drove me to put 5lb more on, but it worked out just fine.
2: -45 (same): Failed on the last 2 for sure. Not bad. After the set before, I was truly shocked.
So: no really big gains, some some gains nonetheless. Now for the last session of the season... :)
Friday, September 25, 2015
Hangboard #7
Another good one here. Some serious gains and some plateaus--the difference of which make for a net gain. I can definitely tell a difference when i take three days off and when i take two. Seems like it might be worth it to take the extra day about every other session. Weighed in pre-workout at 200.0lbs.
This time i had the two days off. Skin was certainly not healed, and i still felt some fraying, but i saw some very happy gains, notwithstanding.
WUJ: -15. check.
Large Open:
1: +30 (+5): No fail.
2: +40 (+5): Ugh! Failed very end of the last two reps.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -25 (+5): NO FAIL!!! This was torturous happy sauce.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (+5): No fail.
2: -5 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (+20): Last minute decision on the weight, and it worked out mighty fine. No fail. Big gain.
2: +5 (+10): Haaaard last rep. i think, honestly, i dropped my feet 'fore the timer beeped. Homing in on a limit here. Time to start pushing it.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on the last rep. Way betta'. 2 reps better.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 2.5 r. That's half a rep better.
Sloper:
1: +25 (+5): Really failed last 2.5.
2: +35 (+5): Good. Failed last 1.5. Same as last sesh, but 5 lbs heavier.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps instead of the last 3.
2: -45 (same): Again, better. Last 2 reps really.
It's exciting that there could be more gains ahead even this season. Once again, i'm looking really forward to taking this to the climbs. Yank n Yard is coming up soon. :)
This time i had the two days off. Skin was certainly not healed, and i still felt some fraying, but i saw some very happy gains, notwithstanding.
WUJ: -15. check.
Large Open:
1: +30 (+5): No fail.
2: +40 (+5): Ugh! Failed very end of the last two reps.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -25 (+5): NO FAIL!!! This was torturous happy sauce.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (+5): No fail.
2: -5 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (+20): Last minute decision on the weight, and it worked out mighty fine. No fail. Big gain.
2: +5 (+10): Haaaard last rep. i think, honestly, i dropped my feet 'fore the timer beeped. Homing in on a limit here. Time to start pushing it.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on the last rep. Way betta'. 2 reps better.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 2.5 r. That's half a rep better.
Sloper:
1: +25 (+5): Really failed last 2.5.
2: +35 (+5): Good. Failed last 1.5. Same as last sesh, but 5 lbs heavier.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps instead of the last 3.
2: -45 (same): Again, better. Last 2 reps really.
It's exciting that there could be more gains ahead even this season. Once again, i'm looking really forward to taking this to the climbs. Yank n Yard is coming up soon. :)
Tuesday, September 22, 2015
Hangboard #6
This was better. i think. Rained a bunch today, so it was a mite sultry out there. But fairly cool. Also i took four days off to heal, and that added something, methinks. Weighed in clothed and shod, without a harness right at 200lbs. That's gordo.
WUJ: -15: fine. Only taped f3 and 4 today. Worked out real nice.
Large Open:
1: +25 (+5): No fail. To clarify prior confusion, i took f2 to the first dimple.
2: +35 (+5): happyjuice. no fail. That'd be a tidy PR.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -40 (same): No fail. better.
2: -30 (Um -5, sorta): no fail. I'm taking that as an uptick. Failed last time i tried this at the end, and failed miserably when i took it to -25 last go. This was hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail. Easy up to the last rep. that one was kin'a hard.
2: -5 (+5): Pretty hefty fail on the last 3 reps. Good effort.
F 2,3,4:
1: -25 (+5): No fail. Really pretty easy. Increase.
2: -5 (+10): No fail!! Cannot explain that one. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (+5): Failed on last 3 reps. Feelin' the humidity on these.
2: -25 (same): Big ol' fail last 3 reps. Again, blamin' the humidity.
Sloper:
1: +20 (+20): Odd. failed on last rep absolutely. That's prolly the biggest jump i've made.
2: +30 (+5): Good. failed last rep and change-- 'bout where i failed with 5# less last time.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): fail last 3 reps. Humid.
2: -45 (+5): Failed last 3. Not horrible. figured if i could only hold on for 3ish reps i might as well make 'em heavier.
This was a good workout. Showed me how much difference a li'l extra friction makes. Still seeing some very happy gains.
WUJ: -15: fine. Only taped f3 and 4 today. Worked out real nice.
Large Open:
1: +25 (+5): No fail. To clarify prior confusion, i took f2 to the first dimple.
2: +35 (+5): happyjuice. no fail. That'd be a tidy PR.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -40 (same): No fail. better.
2: -30 (Um -5, sorta): no fail. I'm taking that as an uptick. Failed last time i tried this at the end, and failed miserably when i took it to -25 last go. This was hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail. Easy up to the last rep. that one was kin'a hard.
2: -5 (+5): Pretty hefty fail on the last 3 reps. Good effort.
F 2,3,4:
1: -25 (+5): No fail. Really pretty easy. Increase.
2: -5 (+10): No fail!! Cannot explain that one. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (+5): Failed on last 3 reps. Feelin' the humidity on these.
2: -25 (same): Big ol' fail last 3 reps. Again, blamin' the humidity.
Sloper:
1: +20 (+20): Odd. failed on last rep absolutely. That's prolly the biggest jump i've made.
2: +30 (+5): Good. failed last rep and change-- 'bout where i failed with 5# less last time.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): fail last 3 reps. Humid.
2: -45 (+5): Failed last 3. Not horrible. figured if i could only hold on for 3ish reps i might as well make 'em heavier.
This was a good workout. Showed me how much difference a li'l extra friction makes. Still seeing some very happy gains.
Friday, September 18, 2015
Hangboard #5
So 5 of 9 done. I'd have a hard time calling this a good workout. Really pretty perfect weather. But i think i ate too much, or the wrong thing. Felt like vomiting through most of it. Did make a few gains, but incurred some regressions as well. I guess the pasta was a bit heavier than i expected, and i should'a' remembered the Tums first.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (same): No fail, but hard. Seriously wondering if i'm putting my hands in the same place. For this set i put my middle finger on the outer dimple. Maybe i should look that up.
2: +30 (same): Kinda failed at the end. Moved my hands inward a bit. Not sure.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): Failed last sec last rep--mostly tape slip i think. Only had f3,4 taped this time.
2: -25 (+5): Massive fail. Just really tired. think i could'a used another day of rest here. Not healed. Ended up moving to the next larger pocket to finish. Really awful.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail, which is an improvement.
2: -10 (same): Failed last 2 seconds--which, again, is an improvement. Did fight for it though.
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (same): No fail. Pretty easy. From the last workout i should have taken this up, but i think i was gun shy after feeling stale on the grips prior.
2: -15 (+5): No fail. ...Dunno; but i'm happy. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (same): No fail. Again, happiness. Bit cooler today which helps a ton on this grip.
2: -25 (+5): Failed last 1.5 reps. Really not bad.
Sloper:
1: BW: Can't seem to get past this. There's just something about that 7th rep. Failed at the last second, which probably is an improvement.
2: +25 (+5); Failed on the last rep. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): End of the last rep, which i believe is better.
2: -50 (same): Failed last two reps--still a li'l bit better i think.
I'd like to chalk this one up as a poor workout; but honestly i made some gains. Just had an acid stomach and can't help but feel like i would have gone better if i'd an extra day of rest. Who knows? i was way psyched to do this going in--been looking forward to it. Then i came home and ate too much. Absurd!
Ah well: i think i have a job as a routesetter at the college. That improves morale. :)
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (same): No fail, but hard. Seriously wondering if i'm putting my hands in the same place. For this set i put my middle finger on the outer dimple. Maybe i should look that up.
2: +30 (same): Kinda failed at the end. Moved my hands inward a bit. Not sure.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): Failed last sec last rep--mostly tape slip i think. Only had f3,4 taped this time.
2: -25 (+5): Massive fail. Just really tired. think i could'a used another day of rest here. Not healed. Ended up moving to the next larger pocket to finish. Really awful.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail, which is an improvement.
2: -10 (same): Failed last 2 seconds--which, again, is an improvement. Did fight for it though.
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (same): No fail. Pretty easy. From the last workout i should have taken this up, but i think i was gun shy after feeling stale on the grips prior.
2: -15 (+5): No fail. ...Dunno; but i'm happy. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (same): No fail. Again, happiness. Bit cooler today which helps a ton on this grip.
2: -25 (+5): Failed last 1.5 reps. Really not bad.
Sloper:
1: BW: Can't seem to get past this. There's just something about that 7th rep. Failed at the last second, which probably is an improvement.
2: +25 (+5); Failed on the last rep. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): End of the last rep, which i believe is better.
2: -50 (same): Failed last two reps--still a li'l bit better i think.
I'd like to chalk this one up as a poor workout; but honestly i made some gains. Just had an acid stomach and can't help but feel like i would have gone better if i'd an extra day of rest. Who knows? i was way psyched to do this going in--been looking forward to it. Then i came home and ate too much. Absurd!
Ah well: i think i have a job as a routesetter at the college. That improves morale. :)
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Hangboard #4
Odd one. I'd have said up front that i really wasn't feeling it tonight. Kinda tired going out there. Turned out to be an ok workout, and gains were made; but i lost on a few. Ah well. Taped all 5 fingers, 'cuz i'm used to f 2 and 5 dragging on some of the grips, but it ain't necessary anymore.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (up 5#): No fail. Nice start.
2: +30 (up 5#): Failed last 2.5 reps. f5 tape was slipping. Don't tape this.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -30 (up 5#): Came off last second last rep. Not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (up 5#): Failed with tape slipping last couple.
2: -10 (same): Failed, really the last 3 reps. Don't know. Li'l humid maybe?
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (+5): Huh. No fail. Not too bad.
2: -20 (+5): No fail! Weird!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (+5): Failed last 2 reps, and couldn't figure out why. I thought i was keeping weight the same at -45, but i counted wrong. That made me feel a li'l bit better.
2: -30 (+5): Rad. Failed last rep...greasing off at the end. Not too bad. That puts me tidily past where i was in May.
Sloper:
1: BW (same): Failed last rep.
2: +15 (up 5#): No fail!?? i cannot explain this. It's like i just don't have enough chalk on for that seventh rep, but six is no problem. Totally mental i guess.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (+5): Failed last rep. whew. Made the executive decision to up it 5lbs at the last second, and i'm not at all sure it was a good one.
2: -50 (+5): Hm. Failed last 3ish. Bad way to end, but that does include 7 reps on this one. Really wasn't that bad.
Again, gains were made here. Can't help but think it might have been more profound if i'd summoned a li'l more amperage. Horses seem to like Yo-Yo Ma better than the heavier stuff, but i might have to dismiss their opinion next go round.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (up 5#): No fail. Nice start.
2: +30 (up 5#): Failed last 2.5 reps. f5 tape was slipping. Don't tape this.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -30 (up 5#): Came off last second last rep. Not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (up 5#): Failed with tape slipping last couple.
2: -10 (same): Failed, really the last 3 reps. Don't know. Li'l humid maybe?
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (+5): Huh. No fail. Not too bad.
2: -20 (+5): No fail! Weird!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (+5): Failed last 2 reps, and couldn't figure out why. I thought i was keeping weight the same at -45, but i counted wrong. That made me feel a li'l bit better.
2: -30 (+5): Rad. Failed last rep...greasing off at the end. Not too bad. That puts me tidily past where i was in May.
Sloper:
1: BW (same): Failed last rep.
2: +15 (up 5#): No fail!?? i cannot explain this. It's like i just don't have enough chalk on for that seventh rep, but six is no problem. Totally mental i guess.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (+5): Failed last rep. whew. Made the executive decision to up it 5lbs at the last second, and i'm not at all sure it was a good one.
2: -50 (+5): Hm. Failed last 3ish. Bad way to end, but that does include 7 reps on this one. Really wasn't that bad.
Again, gains were made here. Can't help but think it might have been more profound if i'd summoned a li'l more amperage. Horses seem to like Yo-Yo Ma better than the heavier stuff, but i might have to dismiss their opinion next go round.
Sunday, September 13, 2015
Hangboard # 3
This was a good workout. (Happened yesterday, 9/12/15). Think i've maybe knocked the rust off, and'm back to making some gains. Super psyched about that.
WUJ: -15: Check.
Large Open:
1: +15: this is a 5# incr. No fail.
2: +25: Again 5# up. No fail :))
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Here i went to the shallowest pocket. 'Bout nailed the weight on this. Hard.
2: -35: No fail!! This hurt. Very hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: Same here. no fail. i think i untaped f4.
2: -10: This was a 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. This was happy sauce. Very surprised (and happy) to get this after the beating i took on the 2,3 pocket.
F 2,3,4:
1: -35: Again, went the shallowest pocket here. And again, felt like the weight was pretty right on. No fail.
2: -25: No fail!! Hard last rep, but this was encouraging. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. no fail. This has me back where i left off in May, with maybe more gas in the tank.
2: -35: Again, a 5# incr. failed last 3 secs of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: BW: This was a >5# incr. Failed last 2 reps.
2: +10: 5# incr. Failed at the end of last rep. Odd. Back to where i was in May. good one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -65: 'Nuther 5# incr. No fail >))
2: -55: Again, 5# up. Failed last second last rep. That'd be a pretty solid PR. :)
Very good workout.
WUJ: -15: Check.
Large Open:
1: +15: this is a 5# incr. No fail.
2: +25: Again 5# up. No fail :))
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Here i went to the shallowest pocket. 'Bout nailed the weight on this. Hard.
2: -35: No fail!! This hurt. Very hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: Same here. no fail. i think i untaped f4.
2: -10: This was a 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. This was happy sauce. Very surprised (and happy) to get this after the beating i took on the 2,3 pocket.
F 2,3,4:
1: -35: Again, went the shallowest pocket here. And again, felt like the weight was pretty right on. No fail.
2: -25: No fail!! Hard last rep, but this was encouraging. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. no fail. This has me back where i left off in May, with maybe more gas in the tank.
2: -35: Again, a 5# incr. failed last 3 secs of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: BW: This was a >5# incr. Failed last 2 reps.
2: +10: 5# incr. Failed at the end of last rep. Odd. Back to where i was in May. good one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -65: 'Nuther 5# incr. No fail >))
2: -55: Again, 5# up. Failed last second last rep. That'd be a pretty solid PR. :)
Very good workout.
Wednesday, September 9, 2015
Differn't Deal (Hangboard #2)
Seriously helped to be rested and to have done no prior climbing for this go. This was a good session. Weighed in post workout at just over 200lbs, so no help there.
WUJ: -15: Better.
Large Open:
1: +10: Better. No fail.
2: +20: No fail. fairly hard. Had f2 pretaped for these, and that helped a bit. Puts me within range of where i left off in May.
F3,4:
1: -25: No fail. Meant to go to -20, but it worked out. Felt i was slipping on f4 tape, so i untaped after.
2: -15: No fail, which is way betta than last round. Very painful on f4 without tape. Thinkin' i should go to the shallower pocket next time. This feels like it digs into my tendons.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No fail!! F3 to outer dimple.
2: -15: Failed at the end of the last rep. Happy! That puts me pretty much at where i stopped in May.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: No fail. very painful on f2. Taped f2 after that.
2: +10: Failed on the last two reps. Less painful, but slippy. Again, i'm thinkin' i'll go to a shallower pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: No fail! Almost back to baseline!
2: -40: Failed last second of last rep. :/
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: No fail. Huh. Neeeearly back..
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: No fail!! That looks to be an uptick from May.
2: -60: And that looks to be a PR. Actually failed on the last rep, then found that i'd programmed 7 reps into the last set. Good times.
Good workout. I gather it's a bit cooler now than mid-May, so that's helping my cause. But i surely ain't any lighter. Lookin' at a potential for some nice gains here.
WUJ: -15: Better.
Large Open:
1: +10: Better. No fail.
2: +20: No fail. fairly hard. Had f2 pretaped for these, and that helped a bit. Puts me within range of where i left off in May.
F3,4:
1: -25: No fail. Meant to go to -20, but it worked out. Felt i was slipping on f4 tape, so i untaped after.
2: -15: No fail, which is way betta than last round. Very painful on f4 without tape. Thinkin' i should go to the shallower pocket next time. This feels like it digs into my tendons.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No fail!! F3 to outer dimple.
2: -15: Failed at the end of the last rep. Happy! That puts me pretty much at where i stopped in May.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: No fail. very painful on f2. Taped f2 after that.
2: +10: Failed on the last two reps. Less painful, but slippy. Again, i'm thinkin' i'll go to a shallower pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: No fail! Almost back to baseline!
2: -40: Failed last second of last rep. :/
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: No fail. Huh. Neeeearly back..
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: No fail!! That looks to be an uptick from May.
2: -60: And that looks to be a PR. Actually failed on the last rep, then found that i'd programmed 7 reps into the last set. Good times.
Good workout. I gather it's a bit cooler now than mid-May, so that's helping my cause. But i surely ain't any lighter. Lookin' at a potential for some nice gains here.
Saturday, September 5, 2015
Remediation
Gotta say this was a weird season. 'Fact, i'm not quite sure what season i'm on here. Was reading back through posts and i finished campusing last season on June 10th. . . . . Almost 3 months later i'm beginning hangboarding again.
Reckon that last "sending" bit was a smidge protracted by a month or two, even though i don't think i went and projected on rock at all; and only got on real rock maybe thrice.
Anyhow, i did get in some pretty decent PE work once i figured out how at the gym: Since there really aren't any useful boulder problems, i linked up some fairly short but stout toprope problems. Worked out really pretty nicely.
I did, though, finally call it, and restarted a new season. It was getting far enough along that i was loath to take two full weeks off; and i do hope i don't regret that. So far, i've got in all the ARCing (2 weeks of it) and just did the first hangboard sesh tonight. I could tell it'd been too long, 'cuz i couldn't remember e.g. taping sequence, etc. and my hands felt--frayed. A bad sign for the first session. But i did boulder this afternoon, and probably went a bit hard. I lost some ground to last season's end, which i'd expect; but it wasn't horrible. Of note, i haven't picked up a weight in a terribly long time. Quit deadlifting about when i got into campusing last season.
Here's hangboard #1 (which now would've happened yesterday: 9/5/15).
WUJ: -15: Check. hands're tired.
Large Open:
1: +10: Ok, but i taped f2,5 afterward. pretty painful.
2: +10: These were 7.5 and 17.5# regressions respectively. Failed anyhow 'cuz taped slipped.
F2,3 Pocket:
1: -25: Failed 'cuz of tape slip
2: -20: Failed last two r, although i untaped f4. this made it very painful
SemiClosed:
1: -40: No fail. Pretty solid.
2: -30: No fail. Pretty hard at the end. Very encouraging.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: total fail last 2 r. Hurtin' here.
2: -10: Made for a huge regression, but no fail. I'm OK starting back. Skin was really hurting.
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Nice feeling. Not too far off of where I left last time.
2: -55: No fail! That's what i got for the first set last go round.
Sloper:
1: -15: No fail, but jus' berly though. I'll take it :)
2: -10: No fail. Whew! Hard last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard last, but no fail.
2: -75: Very hard, but no fail! :))
Yeah. Not a bad start. Gotta take time to heal the skin, and i'm gun' hafta get my head back into training, but i'm not so far off that it's hopeless. Could see some gains this season.
Reckon that last "sending" bit was a smidge protracted by a month or two, even though i don't think i went and projected on rock at all; and only got on real rock maybe thrice.
Anyhow, i did get in some pretty decent PE work once i figured out how at the gym: Since there really aren't any useful boulder problems, i linked up some fairly short but stout toprope problems. Worked out really pretty nicely.
I did, though, finally call it, and restarted a new season. It was getting far enough along that i was loath to take two full weeks off; and i do hope i don't regret that. So far, i've got in all the ARCing (2 weeks of it) and just did the first hangboard sesh tonight. I could tell it'd been too long, 'cuz i couldn't remember e.g. taping sequence, etc. and my hands felt--frayed. A bad sign for the first session. But i did boulder this afternoon, and probably went a bit hard. I lost some ground to last season's end, which i'd expect; but it wasn't horrible. Of note, i haven't picked up a weight in a terribly long time. Quit deadlifting about when i got into campusing last season.
Here's hangboard #1 (which now would've happened yesterday: 9/5/15).
WUJ: -15: Check. hands're tired.
Large Open:
1: +10: Ok, but i taped f2,5 afterward. pretty painful.
2: +10: These were 7.5 and 17.5# regressions respectively. Failed anyhow 'cuz taped slipped.
F2,3 Pocket:
1: -25: Failed 'cuz of tape slip
2: -20: Failed last two r, although i untaped f4. this made it very painful
SemiClosed:
1: -40: No fail. Pretty solid.
2: -30: No fail. Pretty hard at the end. Very encouraging.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: total fail last 2 r. Hurtin' here.
2: -10: Made for a huge regression, but no fail. I'm OK starting back. Skin was really hurting.
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Nice feeling. Not too far off of where I left last time.
2: -55: No fail! That's what i got for the first set last go round.
Sloper:
1: -15: No fail, but jus' berly though. I'll take it :)
2: -10: No fail. Whew! Hard last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard last, but no fail.
2: -75: Very hard, but no fail! :))
Yeah. Not a bad start. Gotta take time to heal the skin, and i'm gun' hafta get my head back into training, but i'm not so far off that it's hopeless. Could see some gains this season.
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
Campus #5 and some routes
Tonight was Campus 5. The warmup, i could say, was really good--encouraging even. But i think it might'a' been a smidge too hard a warmup. This was the last one for the season, and i think i went backwards a bit-- starting to lose some ground. So it works out that it's time to move to PE phase.
Same basic warmup and workout as last time, but i don't think i ever stuck the match with 1-4-5 on the mediums leading Right. Been a few days now, so i mostly just 'member is was a less-than-satisfactory session. Still a good finger thrashing, and no injury.
That was wednesday (6/10 i think). Yesterday (6/13) i went to the gym and just did routes. Power level is ver' high; Enduro level is ver' not there. Got some ground to make up if i'm gun' get any routes this season, but i can fa sho' pull on some holds i couldn't have considered seriously 6 months ago. Looking forward to wrapping the new, improved tendons in some vasculature. That, i expect, will come a li'l quicker.
Same basic warmup and workout as last time, but i don't think i ever stuck the match with 1-4-5 on the mediums leading Right. Been a few days now, so i mostly just 'member is was a less-than-satisfactory session. Still a good finger thrashing, and no injury.
That was wednesday (6/10 i think). Yesterday (6/13) i went to the gym and just did routes. Power level is ver' high; Enduro level is ver' not there. Got some ground to make up if i'm gun' get any routes this season, but i can fa sho' pull on some holds i couldn't have considered seriously 6 months ago. Looking forward to wrapping the new, improved tendons in some vasculature. That, i expect, will come a li'l quicker.
Friday, June 5, 2015
Campus #4
Crazy that this was only the 4th campus sesh. I really though it was the 5th. Stayed right on schedule this time 'round, and i seem to be handling it ok. Left elbow feels a li'l tweaky, but doesn't really hurt. This was an interesting experiment. Went to the climbgym for some boulderin' to warm up, and honestly overdid it. Very tricky line to walk at that wall. There aren't really any grades there to work through. Good place for ARCing (which i did for a while), but then all the boulder problems are either uselessly easy or just hard. Nothing in between--which is odd, 'cuz most of the routesetters can't climb 'em. There are no v2s or v3s on that wall. Super strange. Anyhow, ended up working a couple o' problems, which was fine; but i think i heavy-crimped past the point of "springiness" for campusing. Still: not a bad seshion. Can say i made some progress in spite of being tired. I forgot to take paper with me, so i'm doing this from memory.
XXL) Basic ladder B.
L)
Tried a ladder skipping rungs like last sesh, and fell on my butt. Just went to the meaty bits after that.
1, 4, 6, M
Believe i failed B first go. Got it B second go.
M)
Tried 1, 4, M first and failed. Kinda infuriating; so i just went to 1, 4, 5, M
Got it first try leading L, but failed 3 attempts leading R. Then i got 'er. Very satisfying.
Tried 1, 4, 6 B, but really didn't get close with either hand. Definitely feeling the over-doneness on this one.
S)
Tried 1, 2, M and failed but for a hefty dab. So i thought: What if i just go for 1, 3. Actually stuck it leading L! That's huge! Couldn't manage to stick leading R cuz i couldn't get enough height on the pullup. Again, kinda cooked from bouldering too long. But i could snag pretty easily with both hands if i just jumped. So the sticking power is definitely there; just gotta come at it somewhat fresh.
Anyhow, lesson learned: gotta turn the volume down a bit on the warmup. Also was really clear tonight that a lot of campusing is just convincing m'self to go for it.
For the record, weighed in at 200 and change dressed tonight. Was 195.0# this morning first thing.
XXL) Basic ladder B.
L)
Tried a ladder skipping rungs like last sesh, and fell on my butt. Just went to the meaty bits after that.
1, 4, 6, M
Believe i failed B first go. Got it B second go.
M)
Tried 1, 4, M first and failed. Kinda infuriating; so i just went to 1, 4, 5, M
Got it first try leading L, but failed 3 attempts leading R. Then i got 'er. Very satisfying.
Tried 1, 4, 6 B, but really didn't get close with either hand. Definitely feeling the over-doneness on this one.
S)
Tried 1, 2, M and failed but for a hefty dab. So i thought: What if i just go for 1, 3. Actually stuck it leading L! That's huge! Couldn't manage to stick leading R cuz i couldn't get enough height on the pullup. Again, kinda cooked from bouldering too long. But i could snag pretty easily with both hands if i just jumped. So the sticking power is definitely there; just gotta come at it somewhat fresh.
Anyhow, lesson learned: gotta turn the volume down a bit on the warmup. Also was really clear tonight that a lot of campusing is just convincing m'self to go for it.
For the record, weighed in at 200 and change dressed tonight. Was 195.0# this morning first thing.
Thursday, June 4, 2015
"Limit Boulder" #3
Went to the gym for a warmup for limiting at home last night, and only had 30mins to workout. Did a hardish problem or two, got home home and felt'nt like hitting the wall. So i can hardly call it a limit boulder sesh. But i did at least undergo some climbing-esque motions with my hands. Ah well... Mebbe i'll be extra springy for Campusing manana. That'd be just fine. And i weighed in at 195 and change this morning, so i'm holding onto a downward trend. Happy sauce.
Sunday, May 31, 2015
Limit Boulder 2 and Campus #3
Looks like i didn't get around to posting on the second Limit Boulder session--woulda been Friday, 5/29. Honestly not a session, although i'm still hashing out problems. Really don't have The Problem worked out yet. So i mostly piddled around with some stuff; but it was a good workout. Do think i'm'a hafta take some decent shoes down with me for the next round. the Miuras have no toes left, and that ain't cutting it on tiny feet.
Did Campus #3 tonight. Went out super tired from going to bed way late the 3 or 4 nights prior, and totally knew it was gunna be a waste of time. But it wasn't. Was yet another very large step forward (to my surprise and general smileyness). And i weighed in dressed at 200.6#, which made it more satisfying still, 'cuz that has me about a pound heavier than last time.
XL)
basic ladders.
L)
This time i did a basic ladder, 1-3-5-7-M B.
Straight to 1-4-6.
1: Failed B first go.
2: Failed leading L, stuck leading R.
3: Same. Failed L, stuck it R.
4: There! Stuck it L. Skipped with R to move to smaller rungs.
M)
1-4M: Stuck this with both hands leading first go. Not very hard :)
1-4-5M
1: Stuck L leading first try!! Missed with R. Hmm
2: This time i missed with L, but stuck with R. i'll take it!
S)
1-2M: Stuck L and dabbed for the match. Better! Li'l dab on both with R.
1-3: Touched it easily, but didn't stick. This'll go shortly, methinks.
1-2M: Dabbed for it B. This is getting easier.
M)
Went back to the medium rungs here and tried some doubles. Kindof a cool feeling, 'cuz i really couldn't even meaningfully hang from these 6 months ago. Jumped and double-clutched the 4th rung easily. Didn't get a solid double dyno, but it feels doable. Mighty fine workout.
Did Campus #3 tonight. Went out super tired from going to bed way late the 3 or 4 nights prior, and totally knew it was gunna be a waste of time. But it wasn't. Was yet another very large step forward (to my surprise and general smileyness). And i weighed in dressed at 200.6#, which made it more satisfying still, 'cuz that has me about a pound heavier than last time.
XL)
basic ladders.
L)
This time i did a basic ladder, 1-3-5-7-M B.
Straight to 1-4-6.
1: Failed B first go.
2: Failed leading L, stuck leading R.
3: Same. Failed L, stuck it R.
4: There! Stuck it L. Skipped with R to move to smaller rungs.
M)
1-4M: Stuck this with both hands leading first go. Not very hard :)
1-4-5M
1: Stuck L leading first try!! Missed with R. Hmm
2: This time i missed with L, but stuck with R. i'll take it!
S)
1-2M: Stuck L and dabbed for the match. Better! Li'l dab on both with R.
1-3: Touched it easily, but didn't stick. This'll go shortly, methinks.
1-2M: Dabbed for it B. This is getting easier.
M)
Went back to the medium rungs here and tried some doubles. Kindof a cool feeling, 'cuz i really couldn't even meaningfully hang from these 6 months ago. Jumped and double-clutched the 4th rung easily. Didn't get a solid double dyno, but it feels doable. Mighty fine workout.
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Campus #2
Got campus sesh 2 in last night. Changed things up a bit with fairly spectacular results. Had very low expectations after Sunday's boulder session-- largely cuz i ended up just tearing me down. Went in yesterday to the climbgym for a warmup, and felt pretty tired to begin. But i think that worked out ok, 'cuz i didn't stick around too long to kill it bouldering. Did some easy arcing, and then ended up giving 3 or 4 tries to a limit problem. Was afraid i'd thrashed the crimpers, but it worked out to be a perfect warmup. Got home and did the usual p'lups, rows, dips and piddling on the hangboard. then to the Campus sticks.
XXL) Basic ladder, B hands leading.
XL) Skipped these :)
L)
1, 3B, 5, M. Jumped ahead here from last sesh. Just fine.
1, 4B, 5, M Real nice.
1, 4L, 6, M... STICK!! Felt fairly easy.
1, 4R, 6 Failed to stick 6, but got it second go. Happy. :)
M)
1, 3B, 4, M. Not easy leading L, but got it. Actually did feel pretty easy leading R.
1, 4, M: Ok, another mile of progress here! Did three sets of these with each hand leading. The first two sets i missed the match with L leading, but stuck the match R. Third set i was tired and missed the match with both hands. But i couldn't even stick the 4th rung with a lead hand 5 days ago. I can actually imagine making some progress on these over the next coupla weeks; 'specially if i can lose some weight.
S)
1, 2B, M. Did two sets of these with mat dabs for help. Getting tired here; but i'm not too far away from actually moving my tubby butt up the wall on these.
This was absolutely a shot in the arm... totally beyond expectation. I think it helped to cut some of the extraneous stuff out, like the XL rungs. But i was still up probably 3-4lbs from the last sesh (due to nearly constant grazing on garbage over the weekend), and i was still noticeably broken down from the bouldering sesh the few days prior. So however i look at it, this was a step upward. There is hope
XXL) Basic ladder, B hands leading.
XL) Skipped these :)
L)
1, 3B, 5, M. Jumped ahead here from last sesh. Just fine.
1, 4B, 5, M Real nice.
1, 4L, 6, M... STICK!! Felt fairly easy.
1, 4R, 6 Failed to stick 6, but got it second go. Happy. :)
M)
1, 3B, 4, M. Not easy leading L, but got it. Actually did feel pretty easy leading R.
1, 4, M: Ok, another mile of progress here! Did three sets of these with each hand leading. The first two sets i missed the match with L leading, but stuck the match R. Third set i was tired and missed the match with both hands. But i couldn't even stick the 4th rung with a lead hand 5 days ago. I can actually imagine making some progress on these over the next coupla weeks; 'specially if i can lose some weight.
S)
1, 2B, M. Did two sets of these with mat dabs for help. Getting tired here; but i'm not too far away from actually moving my tubby butt up the wall on these.
This was absolutely a shot in the arm... totally beyond expectation. I think it helped to cut some of the extraneous stuff out, like the XL rungs. But i was still up probably 3-4lbs from the last sesh (due to nearly constant grazing on garbage over the weekend), and i was still noticeably broken down from the bouldering sesh the few days prior. So however i look at it, this was a step upward. There is hope
Monday, May 25, 2015
Campus #1 and Limit(ish) boulder #1 [Season 3]
Got in campus session numma one on 5/21. Ended up doing this on day 4 after hangboarding, 'stead of day 3, and it worked out just fine. Ah yeah: Went and did a "warmup boulder ladder" for it the day before, and got home late from church and didn't get to campus. Worked out very well, 'cuz i really needed that extra day to regenerate soft tissue. Had a pretty encouraging first campusing as a result.
Yesterday (5/24) got to go to Stone Age for some "limit bouldering". I honestly got sidetracked just doing problems warming up, and didn't really get around to the "limit" bit. But i'm okay with that. It was fun, and i tore down some tendon without injury. Almost overwhelming to climb at a wall where the routes make some kind of sense and are fun. Ended up tearing down 3 v5s in a coupla tries per (which is prolly a PR for me) and an handful of 4s. Actually had a hard time finding an appropriate limit problem. Really hafta have your antennae up for the right sequence--'specially in a huge gym with nearly-unlimited potentials and holds. Did do some heavy damage to the crux of a v7 (which i think would go) but it wasn't a good limit problem, interestingly. Actually think i'll be able to make a better go of the limit stuff on my home wall. Kinda looking forward to it next time. And in spite of clocking in at a rotund 200#, i felt pretty monstrous strong at it. Super encouraging! The hangboarding payeth off! Now to get on with losing a stone or so...
Back to the campus sesh:
Gunna include the warmup on this one for future reference. Did some pullups (13 usually), rows on the rings, dips on the rings; then played around on my wall and hangboard to wake up the piggies. Taped up F 3&4 to begin, which i eventually stripped--although it didn't hurt anything.
XXL) Did a coupla basic ladders and felt mighty good. Then to max ladders.
XL)
1, 3, 4, match B. No problem.
1, 4, 5, match B. Pretty easy. Didn't try 1,4,6. Wanted to save it for the smaller rungs.
L)
1, 3, 4, match B. Ok.
1, 3, 5, match B. Again, got these both hands leading easily first go. Pretty encouraging.
1, 4, 5 match B. Easy.
1: 1, 4, 6: Touched the 6th rung with both hands, but didn't get over the top.
2: 1, 4, 6: This time i spun the wrong way off my post hand. i think i'll have this soon.
3: 1, 4, 6: Tried again 'cuz i don't know when to quit. Li'l stale.
M)
1, 3, 4 match B. Easy. This is where i worked up to last season, so definitely a shot in the arm to feel cozy on these first sesh in, 3.5 months later.
Tried 1, 4, 5 three or four time with each hand leading, but i couldn't quiiiiite stick 1, 4. That will go, and it'll be tidy progress.
S) Hung for a while on these. Was tired when i got to 'em, so i couldn't really move. But they don't feel nearly as intimidating as they did last season. That, by itself, is an uptick.
Good start. Session #2 comes tomorrow.
Yesterday (5/24) got to go to Stone Age for some "limit bouldering". I honestly got sidetracked just doing problems warming up, and didn't really get around to the "limit" bit. But i'm okay with that. It was fun, and i tore down some tendon without injury. Almost overwhelming to climb at a wall where the routes make some kind of sense and are fun. Ended up tearing down 3 v5s in a coupla tries per (which is prolly a PR for me) and an handful of 4s. Actually had a hard time finding an appropriate limit problem. Really hafta have your antennae up for the right sequence--'specially in a huge gym with nearly-unlimited potentials and holds. Did do some heavy damage to the crux of a v7 (which i think would go) but it wasn't a good limit problem, interestingly. Actually think i'll be able to make a better go of the limit stuff on my home wall. Kinda looking forward to it next time. And in spite of clocking in at a rotund 200#, i felt pretty monstrous strong at it. Super encouraging! The hangboarding payeth off! Now to get on with losing a stone or so...
Back to the campus sesh:
Gunna include the warmup on this one for future reference. Did some pullups (13 usually), rows on the rings, dips on the rings; then played around on my wall and hangboard to wake up the piggies. Taped up F 3&4 to begin, which i eventually stripped--although it didn't hurt anything.
XXL) Did a coupla basic ladders and felt mighty good. Then to max ladders.
XL)
1, 3, 4, match B. No problem.
1, 4, 5, match B. Pretty easy. Didn't try 1,4,6. Wanted to save it for the smaller rungs.
L)
1, 3, 4, match B. Ok.
1, 3, 5, match B. Again, got these both hands leading easily first go. Pretty encouraging.
1, 4, 5 match B. Easy.
1: 1, 4, 6: Touched the 6th rung with both hands, but didn't get over the top.
2: 1, 4, 6: This time i spun the wrong way off my post hand. i think i'll have this soon.
3: 1, 4, 6: Tried again 'cuz i don't know when to quit. Li'l stale.
M)
1, 3, 4 match B. Easy. This is where i worked up to last season, so definitely a shot in the arm to feel cozy on these first sesh in, 3.5 months later.
Tried 1, 4, 5 three or four time with each hand leading, but i couldn't quiiiiite stick 1, 4. That will go, and it'll be tidy progress.
S) Hung for a while on these. Was tired when i got to 'em, so i couldn't really move. But they don't feel nearly as intimidating as they did last season. That, by itself, is an uptick.
Good start. Session #2 comes tomorrow.
Sunday, May 17, 2015
Hangboard #9 (Season 3)
Another fairly hot day to end hangboarding on. Can't say i made any really jaw-dropping progress from last time to today, but it went pretty well. Amazing how long 7 seconds can seem when you're maxed out and can feel your skin rending. And amazing how much difference 10 or so degrees of temp can make. Starting to understand why folks climb in the snow.
This time i taped F2 so's to save as many skin cells as possible. Worked for a while.
WUJ: -15: Fine. Didn't drop my hands, and that makes a difference.
Large Open:
1: +17.5: Same. No fail. Hot.
2: +27.5: Same, 'cept i failed at the veeeery end of the last rep; so an improvement (if a small one).
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -10: Hot. Slippin', but no fail.
2: BW: Started a hair late on the last two reps, but no fail-- so better. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: Really failed last 3 or 4 reps. Taped was slipping. Untaped F2 after this one.
2: -10: Whew! Failed last 3ish reps, but i forgot to clip in for the first one. Hurtin' here.
F 2,3,4:
1: +15: This was a 5# incr. Sweating. Big ol' fail last 1.5 reps.
2: +25: Again, 5# incr. Failed last 1.5 reps, but good 'til then.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Same weight. Sorta failed at the very end. Really hot.
2: -35: Same. Failed last 1.5 reps. Coulda used a rechalking here. Not bad really.
Sloper:
1: BW: Failed last 1.5 reps. yeah.
2: +10: Failed at the end of the last rep. Odd that. Made a point to blow on my hands and shake out between every rep, which seemed to help.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: Failed end of last rep.
2: -60: This was a 5# regression. Still failed at the end, but it was better than last workout.
Easy to get hung up on the smallish changes from workout to workout; but i went back and looked at the first workout this season, and i added from 15 to 25+ lbs to every grip. To be fair, i'm almost 5# lighter now than i was then, but that's still pretty reasonable progress in under a month of training. Makes me wonder what could happen if i didn't take months in between strength sessions. I'd really like to flex some discipline and protract the sending season this time, and start over sooner. Might find i could crush stuff i can't really imagine just now.
Anyhow, enough hanging. It's on to Power! :))
This time i taped F2 so's to save as many skin cells as possible. Worked for a while.
WUJ: -15: Fine. Didn't drop my hands, and that makes a difference.
Large Open:
1: +17.5: Same. No fail. Hot.
2: +27.5: Same, 'cept i failed at the veeeery end of the last rep; so an improvement (if a small one).
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -10: Hot. Slippin', but no fail.
2: BW: Started a hair late on the last two reps, but no fail-- so better. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: Really failed last 3 or 4 reps. Taped was slipping. Untaped F2 after this one.
2: -10: Whew! Failed last 3ish reps, but i forgot to clip in for the first one. Hurtin' here.
F 2,3,4:
1: +15: This was a 5# incr. Sweating. Big ol' fail last 1.5 reps.
2: +25: Again, 5# incr. Failed last 1.5 reps, but good 'til then.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Same weight. Sorta failed at the very end. Really hot.
2: -35: Same. Failed last 1.5 reps. Coulda used a rechalking here. Not bad really.
Sloper:
1: BW: Failed last 1.5 reps. yeah.
2: +10: Failed at the end of the last rep. Odd that. Made a point to blow on my hands and shake out between every rep, which seemed to help.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: Failed end of last rep.
2: -60: This was a 5# regression. Still failed at the end, but it was better than last workout.
Easy to get hung up on the smallish changes from workout to workout; but i went back and looked at the first workout this season, and i added from 15 to 25+ lbs to every grip. To be fair, i'm almost 5# lighter now than i was then, but that's still pretty reasonable progress in under a month of training. Makes me wonder what could happen if i didn't take months in between strength sessions. I'd really like to flex some discipline and protract the sending season this time, and start over sooner. Might find i could crush stuff i can't really imagine just now.
Anyhow, enough hanging. It's on to Power! :))
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