Quick post because i so need to post. Annie's off to Honduras in the morning. I'm hoping to head to Glenn's. I haven't posted in just over a year because I've been .... i think, overwhelmed with depression. That doesn't mean i've given up or entirely stopped working out. I just haven't had much extra energy. Have been lifting some lately (including with Aeon and Annie!) and pulled 415 on deads a week and a half ago. That's way off a PR, but i'm ok with that. Annie pulled 255 i believe. Aeon's pulling around 180, which ain't bad considering he's never relaly tried it before. Haven't been riding much for the last two months, because as usual it's super cold. But i did get in around 900 miles last year on the mountain bike. Hit several PRs on kinsey. Climbing hasn't been stellar--mostly cuz i'm fatter than ever--but I have sent some legit v5 at the gym. I'm setting still when i have the time. Been weighing in since around November at about 212ish. Can't seem to get down much. I'm hoping i can find some motivation though. I need to find a friend to talk to... Need to find someone. Need to.
Wednesday, February 23, 2022
Sunday, February 7, 2021
Season 14
I'll post up 'cuz, one, it's nice to have some way posts, but also my last few posts have been darkly tinged, and today's was a pretty good workout. Still looking for a light in this tenebrous tunnel to be sure, but there's a spark of hope. I suppose you could say i'm well into Season 14 here. Did my 15th hangboard sesh today (and since i failed to publish this yesterday, it was yesterday), and first on the Power timer. I had not done this workout since January 15, 2020. First Power workout that season was on Jan. 1, so i'm comparing with that one. Weighed in at 207 clothed today, so i'm fully 10lbs. heavier than i was last year. Excepting hangboarding, i haven't been climbing at all since--what?--April or so of last year, so i have had very low expectations about hitting Power season. To balance out carrying 10 extra pounds of lard, i dropped my weights by approximately 10lbs. as a starting guess. The encouraging part is that i hewed really very closely to that workout from January 2020, paucity of climbing notwithstanding. In fact, on a couple of grip/sets i did better. Overall, i'm definitely weaker; but it seems to be entirely accounted for by the extra gravity i've assumed, and the difference is pretty linear and small.
I also did get some new running shoes a few weeks ago, and have been running some. I've gotten a couple of rides in, but the trail is still a muddy, icy sloghole, and is significantly hypofun. I'll also note that my warmups for the HB sessions are getting a li'l feistier, and i may soon be composed of something besides flaccid blubber in my thorax. And the weather is starting to look up. :)
I'll juxtapose current workout with that from 1/1/20, and put the earlier numbers in parentheses.
Also, for the record, the timer is wonky in progression.
Sets are 5rep x 7sec/ 3rep x 5sec/ 1rep x 5sec/ 2rep x 3sec. 3min rest between Sets 4&1 and between Sets 1&2. 2min rest between Sets 2&3 and Sets 3&4.
2/6/21 HB #15 S:14 "Power #1" (vs. 1/1/20 HB #6 S:12 "Power #1")
WUJ: -15 (-15)
Large Open:
1: +20 Ok. (+30 Got em.)
2: +50 Yup. (+60 Yeah.)
3: +90 Got 'em. (+100 Yeah.)
4: +100 Umm..last 1/2 sec ish. (+110 Hard for sure, but not terrible.)
Small Crimp:
1: -60 Got em. (-50 Yeah not bad.)
2: -30 Last 2 sec last rep. (-20 Ok. Got those.)
3: -20 eeee. Got maybe 2-3 sec (-10 K. Hard. Got it.)
of that.
4: -20 Ugh. Got my feet off the (BW Nope. Got my feet off the ground.)
ground mebbe a sec each.
F 2,3,4:
1: +15 Hard. Got 'em. (+25 That was a bit hard. No fail.)
2: +45 Yeah got 'em. (+55 Got those.)
3: +80 Yeah. (+90 Yeah. Hard.)
4: +100 Pretty darn close! (+110 Nope. Too heavy.)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -35 Not too bad. (-25 No problem.)
2: -5 Last 1 sec. (+5 Dropped last 1/2 sec.)
3: +15 Didn't lock in well. Got (+25 Hard. Got it.)
3-4 sec. Bleh.
4: +20 Got a sec or 2 of each. (+30 Last 1/2 sec last rep. Bout right!)
F 3,4,5:
1: -30 Got 'em. (-20 Yep.)
2: -5 Last 1 sec. (+10 Got those. Hard.)
3: +15 Got it! (+30 Woo. Got 3 solid secs.)
4: +20 Got those! (+30 Ha! Got those. Woo man.)
Slopa':
1: +30 Last 2 secs. Hot. (+45 Last 2 sec last rep.)
2: +60 Got 'em. (+75 Last sec or two.)
3: +90 Got it :) (+100 Got 4 secs.)
4: +100 Got it...Barelybarely. (+100 [No comment])
So basically i was tracking within 10 lbs of the prior workout almost down the line. A few wider spreads on a couple of the more endurancy, warmup sets (the first two sets in my estimation), but some convergence on the power sets (generally the last two sets of the grip). Theoretically, then, if i can just find a way to pare 10-15 lbs. i'll not have lost any strength at all--which i find nearly miraculous. Now to find a way to stop eating so much...
Friday, January 1, 2021
reckoning
It's a new year today, and I need to start this off on a decent footing. I can roughly chronicle what the last year has been like, health-wise, for an accounting. Weighed in at 203 this morning. That puts me 7-8 lbs up on my average weights between April and June, and about five lbs heavier than on January 1, 2020 (from my hangboard workout that day). So i'm definitely fatter than a year ago, but no so far off the mark that it's utterly hopeless.
Did a lot of riding this year until very recently, and got a few PRs. Strava more than doubled their subscription price, so i can't access my stats from the last year until i'm ready to be raped for a phone app. From a more useful app, it looks like i got in roughly 600mi this last year on the mt bike.
Climbing has just spiraled into the sun this year due to covid. There's nothing climbable in this rotting hell of town, and they closed the gym down. Climbing is not a family priority (meaning, basically, that it isn't an animal that has to be fed) so it gets no money apportioned to it. As yet, then, I haven't been able to build a boulder. Have been hangboarding for the last few weeks, and it's shown me how far out of shape i've gotten over the last 6 months. Have gotten 6 workouts in so far: 5 on the "Enduro 2" timer and one on the "Intermediate". Maybe i'll get it back.
Haven't been running. Haven't worked out on weights since the world shut down--so again, prolly six or eight months or so. I've basically been living on cortisol and high-sugar, high-lard crap for the last two months; have been drinking way too much; and in a nutshell have been trying to find some way out of the overwhelming mediocrity and meaninglessness i've chained myself to.
I'm very much wanting some resolution, some resolve. I can't help being meaningless and i can't help that my life makes no sound and i can't help that i have no friends or community; but i think i can help that i'm fat and depressed about it. Maybe i can help that i'm a poor example as a dad. Maybe i can write more and reflect more and play video games less and eat less. Maybe i can cut out the trash carbs and cheese that the fam subsists on, even if it means i make my own food for every meal.
Maybe i can go for a walk even if it's too cold or far away for a ride.
Sunday, November 22, 2020
Cairn
I feel a little desperate to write. I never imagined that the world could be so lonely, and I never imagined that after having had so much practice with life that I would have such an inexorable predilection for putting myself at every chance into what usually ends up being the worst possible--or most disadvantageous--situation among the choices as I've understood them. It's darkly amusing and still hope-crushing to look back on my path and discover that practically every step I've taken has somehow accidentally been the wrong one; that practically every step has led to more stress, more resentment, more indebtedness; and has generally led me to being less of a husband, less of a dad, less of a friend.
Of course, that doesn't mean that no good has come from any of it, nor that there's no way to imagine that God will finally bring a goodness out of it all greater than the darkness. In other words, it's not impossible to imagine that there could finally be a point to it all. It's only that it is disheartening to consistently see that every time I have been faced with a decision for what amounts to a life-changing opportunity, I choose--even after patiently weighing it out and praying about it and trying to discuss it with friends, etc.--to go in a direction that shackles us further, weakens our family further, takes me away from home more often and for longer, and costs us more money. The overwhelming net feeling from this is that I know beyond the possibility of doubt that I have no agency in my own trajectory: I control nothing--if for no better reason than that I was never given (or I grossly miscalculated, if you like) the actual likeliest outcomes of my decisions. But the darkly elegant, darkly amusing piece of it is that when I plot all the points that have led me to be in whatever situation I find myself in, each of those points is or is directly related to a choice I have made--such that looking back on them myself, I cannot but think that I've been on a subconscious mission to sabotage myself. Amusing that even those opportunities that come down the pipe as "no brainers"--the sort where "I'd have to be an idiot not to jump on this" ends up being just another step into perdition, into relentless, consuming mediocrity.
Sunday, April 19, 2020
Enduro HB #3 S:13
Got in the third workout on the Enduro 2 timer yesterday, and did three iterations of the timer. Weighed in at 199 clothed, so was a li'l heavier than for the previous workouts, but it went ok. Did feel kinda tired still. This got brutal at the end, but felt like a legit endurance workout. I like this timer better than the first Enduro timer i made. I'd done two iterations last time, so those weights were pretty dialed and went as expected. The third round i had to guess on, but for the most part got 'em all. And, as above, it felt brutal at the end, so i can't say i sandbagged to finish. One round is 686 seconds TUT so 11.43 mins. Three iterations, then, is 34.3 mins TUT; so that's about 42% duty cycle including the 3 min rests between iterations. If i'm honest with how ARCing usually goes, that's probably not unrealistic. You get to this point of fatigue even on a wall when you're just hanging out on rest positions trying not to fall off jugs. Not to mention, with feet most of the movements are probably actually lighter than how i've weighted me here. It'd be really interesting to get a tensiometer and see how much force i really apply to a typical hold on easy/moderate terrain. I'd bet it's way less that 50% BW.
WUJ: -15 x 3
Large Open:
1: -30
2: 30: Felt hard hard
3: -40: Fail for the last half, but i could still pick my feet up. Not far off.
F 3,4:
1: -75
2: -75: Tired here. Hard.
3: -85: Really not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -50
2: -60: Woo! Hard. Feeling tired.
3: -70: 'Bout right.
F 2,3,4:
1: -40
2: -60: yeah
3: -70: K. Right.
Wide Pinch:
1: -75: Felt hard today.
2: -90: Woo. Barely...
3: -100: Hard. Got em
Slopa':
1: -60: Yeah.
2: -80: Whoa...real hard.
3: -85: Hard hard, but got 'em.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -90
2: -100: 'bout right.
3: -100: Got 'em.
WUJ: -15 x 3
Large Open:
1: -30
2: 30: Felt hard hard
3: -40: Fail for the last half, but i could still pick my feet up. Not far off.
F 3,4:
1: -75
2: -75: Tired here. Hard.
3: -85: Really not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -50
2: -60: Woo! Hard. Feeling tired.
3: -70: 'Bout right.
F 2,3,4:
1: -40
2: -60: yeah
3: -70: K. Right.
Wide Pinch:
1: -75: Felt hard today.
2: -90: Woo. Barely...
3: -100: Hard. Got em
Slopa':
1: -60: Yeah.
2: -80: Whoa...real hard.
3: -85: Hard hard, but got 'em.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -90
2: -100: 'bout right.
3: -100: Got 'em.
Thursday, April 16, 2020
Season 13
OK: So it's looking like I got in 4 Campus workouts last season, the last being on 2.2.20. Got sidetracked on that, but did continue climbing, and pulled down some good problems in the gym until covid shut us down. Of note, I incurred a pretty high-grade tear in a hamstring before that--sometime in the week prior to 1.28.
Just started this season on 4.5.20: 2 months after the last Campus workout, so pretty much right on time. Went with the Intermediate timer, and it was depressing. Haven't worked that one in quite a long time. Think I last did that one in Sept 2019. I have traditionally used that as a kind of proxy for Enduro climbing, or to transition from actual Enduro to Strength. And as I haven't done any Endurance in an embarrassingly long time, that is quite naturally my weak link. I've recently felt pretty strong, but just can't pull many moves strung together. That's archetypal bouldering shape, I'd guess.
So to highlight the grip configs I've been neglecting and also to work on Endurance, I put together a new timer. Basically modified the Intermediate timer's grip progression into something completely different. Normally the timer is two sets on each grip with 7 reps on the first set, and 6 on the second. Then it's 3 minutes between sets. With the same 7 sec hang/ 3 sec rest duty cycle, I welded the two sets together with a longer 10 sec "shakeout" between. So it's basically 13 reps per set (excepting the WUJ which stayed at 7 reps--although I might increase that for more TUT). Then I reduced the rest interval between sets to 1 min, which is just enough time to change weights, clip back in, and look intently at a chalk bag. Then (so far) I've doubled that timer. So after a 3 min rest, it starts over. With 2 of these supersets, that makes for about 23 minutes TUT (so each superset is a li'l over 11 mins TUT). Also, i'm recording these just as for the Intermediate timer, but each set indicates the 13 reps of that grip, and moves to the next grip same set. The 2nd set of a grip indicates the second iteration or superset of the timer.
Yesterday i did the second workout on that timer, both with two of these supersets. The first workout (4.11.20) was basically dialing weights, but it went well. Did the second session yesterday (4.15.20) and the weights were pretty much spot on. I'll record that below. I'd like to tweak the timer to work up to 3 or 4 supersets. That, I think, would put me in really good endurance fitness. Importantly, the point of this is not to go to failure, but to achieve a nice, monstrous pump.
WUJ:
1: -15
2: -15
Large Open:
1: -75: This was a screw-up. Was supposed to be BW, but i had the pin set for the next workout and just clipped in on auto pilot.
2: -30: Very hard at the end. 'Bout right.
F 3,4:
1: -75: Not bad.
2: -75: These got hard at the end, but not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: 'Bout right.
2: -60: Perfect. Real hard at the end.
F 2,3,4:
1: -40: Got real hard, but no fail.
2: -60: Right weight. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -75: Yeah. No fail.
2: -90: Much better. Hard and no fail.
Slopa':
1: -60: Again, much better dialed this time. Spicy.
2: -80: Yeah. Right on.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -90: No fail. Good first set!
2: -100: No fail. That one was even a li'l easy.
This was a really good workout, and felt like it mocked up the duty cycle of ARCing pretty closely, which I've had a really hard time doing on a hangboard. Wanna do 3 iterations for the next workout and see how that goes.
Just started this season on 4.5.20: 2 months after the last Campus workout, so pretty much right on time. Went with the Intermediate timer, and it was depressing. Haven't worked that one in quite a long time. Think I last did that one in Sept 2019. I have traditionally used that as a kind of proxy for Enduro climbing, or to transition from actual Enduro to Strength. And as I haven't done any Endurance in an embarrassingly long time, that is quite naturally my weak link. I've recently felt pretty strong, but just can't pull many moves strung together. That's archetypal bouldering shape, I'd guess.
So to highlight the grip configs I've been neglecting and also to work on Endurance, I put together a new timer. Basically modified the Intermediate timer's grip progression into something completely different. Normally the timer is two sets on each grip with 7 reps on the first set, and 6 on the second. Then it's 3 minutes between sets. With the same 7 sec hang/ 3 sec rest duty cycle, I welded the two sets together with a longer 10 sec "shakeout" between. So it's basically 13 reps per set (excepting the WUJ which stayed at 7 reps--although I might increase that for more TUT). Then I reduced the rest interval between sets to 1 min, which is just enough time to change weights, clip back in, and look intently at a chalk bag. Then (so far) I've doubled that timer. So after a 3 min rest, it starts over. With 2 of these supersets, that makes for about 23 minutes TUT (so each superset is a li'l over 11 mins TUT). Also, i'm recording these just as for the Intermediate timer, but each set indicates the 13 reps of that grip, and moves to the next grip same set. The 2nd set of a grip indicates the second iteration or superset of the timer.
Yesterday i did the second workout on that timer, both with two of these supersets. The first workout (4.11.20) was basically dialing weights, but it went well. Did the second session yesterday (4.15.20) and the weights were pretty much spot on. I'll record that below. I'd like to tweak the timer to work up to 3 or 4 supersets. That, I think, would put me in really good endurance fitness. Importantly, the point of this is not to go to failure, but to achieve a nice, monstrous pump.
WUJ:
1: -15
2: -15
Large Open:
1: -75: This was a screw-up. Was supposed to be BW, but i had the pin set for the next workout and just clipped in on auto pilot.
2: -30: Very hard at the end. 'Bout right.
F 3,4:
1: -75: Not bad.
2: -75: These got hard at the end, but not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: 'Bout right.
2: -60: Perfect. Real hard at the end.
F 2,3,4:
1: -40: Got real hard, but no fail.
2: -60: Right weight. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -75: Yeah. No fail.
2: -90: Much better. Hard and no fail.
Slopa':
1: -60: Again, much better dialed this time. Spicy.
2: -80: Yeah. Right on.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -90: No fail. Good first set!
2: -100: No fail. That one was even a li'l easy.
This was a really good workout, and felt like it mocked up the duty cycle of ARCing pretty closely, which I've had a really hard time doing on a hangboard. Wanna do 3 iterations for the next workout and see how that goes.
Saturday, January 25, 2020
On to Campusing S:12
Once again, I've been remiss in posting. Poor access to a 'puter I guess. Respecting Hangboarding, I posted up #5 which was on the "Heavy" timer. After that, i switched to the "Power" timer and did another 4 workouts on that, for a total of 9 HB sessions. Do believe i saw some gains on that, although it has been bitterly cold in the barn for some of them, and I ended up quitting at least one of the sessions early 'cuz i couldn't feel my hands and my phone froze and died. At any rate, i have been pretty much on schedule with all the workouts and finished Campus #2 on 1.23.20--so two days ago. I've gained some weight since the end of mt biking season, and have been between 4-6lbs heavier for this season's workouts than i was in October. In spite of that, Campus 2 was pretty awesome, and i feel like i've kinda picked up where i left off; just heavier. In lieu of the Limit Bouldering, i did a session of just harder routes at the gym, and i think that was a good workout as well. I've been back in the irongym too, for at least back work, and that i think has helped for the most part. Haven't been writing these down for some reason, but I've back up to pulling a few reps with 425 on Deads, and last night got 3 reps with BW +100lbs on pullups. Have also been doing Frenchies, and i sorta like those. Last night i got to 425 on Deads and i think i might have ruptured a hamstring, so those are out for a while. I'm hoping i can still campus. Finger skin is still intact, and by the grace of God i didn't hurt anything in my back or arms. We'll see if i can heal from this in time to get on a bike. :)
Sunday, December 29, 2019
Season 12
I'm making a pointed effort to not drop the last season in the toilet before starting another. Been a bit rare through my decades of training for various sports to manage ratcheting up off the prior season. I seem to have encoded on my operating parameters that i must be nearly entirely de-trained in order to fire up a subsequent season. But this time...this time will be different.
Last Campus workout was on November 6, and I've started this one straight into Hangboarding. I'm behind on recording the sessions, but I started on Dec 14--so just over 5 weeks apart. Have done some climbing in the meantime, but that's been spotty because it's cold and the climbing wall here is characteristically not set for training.
As hinted, I've forgone Enduro climbing this time 'round as there really is no great way to do that. As an experiment I've shot straight into the "Heavy" timer for HB, to see if can't add some numbers whilst avoiding injury without dropping back to the higher rep sessions first. Just finished HB #5 yesterday, and so far it's been very encouraging. I'm about the same weight as I was for the same workouts in early October. I consider the benchmark for these workouts the small crimp and the shallow 3 finger pocket, and I've ended up better on both than in October. The strange one is the sloper. That seems limited more by how much time I hang, than by how much weight I add. I suspect I'd see the most improvement on this by increasing the TUT.
12.28.19 HB #5 S:12 "Heavy" timer: 198# clothed
WUJ: -15: Yeah.
Large Open:
1: +10: No prob.
2: +30: Yup.
3: +50: K. li'l hard at the end. These i've kept consistent as they otherwise wreck the remainder of the workout.
Small Crimp:
1: -50: Yeah not bad.
2: -35: Yeah, again not bad. This is improvement from last season.
3: -20: Yass! Got those!! That's a true PR over measured seasons.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Better. Got 'em.
2: +15: K. Li'l hard. got em all
3: +40: HA! Got those. Oddly, this is still down from S10 in Feb when i got 50.
Slopa':
1: BW: HA! Got 'em all.
2: +25: Last 2 sec last rep. better.
3: +70: Gt 1 1/2, then fail.
F 3,4,5:
1: -50: K. That was really easy.
2: -30: Got 'em all. Mighty hard at the end.
3: -10: Ha! Got 'em all.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: Got those.
2: -30: Whew! Toe down at the beeper.
3: -10: Slipped one sec from the timer.
Plan from here is to get four more HBs on the "Power" timer, and then Campus as usual. But I'd like to just go straight back into HB for another round.
Notably I have been lifting again, and am getting back to 30+ p'lups and have gotten a double with +100. Deads are back over 405, which used to be the warmup; but i really don't want to work Deads that heavy. I don't think it adds anything to the climbing.
Also since March I've gotten well over 850 miles on the mt. bike. I'm trying to keep some fitness on the bike, but it's become mighty cold and the trail is perma-mud for now. Blessedly i haven't so far gained much weight. Be just fine to hit next season with a decent base.
Last Campus workout was on November 6, and I've started this one straight into Hangboarding. I'm behind on recording the sessions, but I started on Dec 14--so just over 5 weeks apart. Have done some climbing in the meantime, but that's been spotty because it's cold and the climbing wall here is characteristically not set for training.
As hinted, I've forgone Enduro climbing this time 'round as there really is no great way to do that. As an experiment I've shot straight into the "Heavy" timer for HB, to see if can't add some numbers whilst avoiding injury without dropping back to the higher rep sessions first. Just finished HB #5 yesterday, and so far it's been very encouraging. I'm about the same weight as I was for the same workouts in early October. I consider the benchmark for these workouts the small crimp and the shallow 3 finger pocket, and I've ended up better on both than in October. The strange one is the sloper. That seems limited more by how much time I hang, than by how much weight I add. I suspect I'd see the most improvement on this by increasing the TUT.
12.28.19 HB #5 S:12 "Heavy" timer: 198# clothed
WUJ: -15: Yeah.
Large Open:
1: +10: No prob.
2: +30: Yup.
3: +50: K. li'l hard at the end. These i've kept consistent as they otherwise wreck the remainder of the workout.
Small Crimp:
1: -50: Yeah not bad.
2: -35: Yeah, again not bad. This is improvement from last season.
3: -20: Yass! Got those!! That's a true PR over measured seasons.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Better. Got 'em.
2: +15: K. Li'l hard. got em all
3: +40: HA! Got those. Oddly, this is still down from S10 in Feb when i got 50.
Slopa':
1: BW: HA! Got 'em all.
2: +25: Last 2 sec last rep. better.
3: +70: Gt 1 1/2, then fail.
F 3,4,5:
1: -50: K. That was really easy.
2: -30: Got 'em all. Mighty hard at the end.
3: -10: Ha! Got 'em all.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: Got those.
2: -30: Whew! Toe down at the beeper.
3: -10: Slipped one sec from the timer.
Plan from here is to get four more HBs on the "Power" timer, and then Campus as usual. But I'd like to just go straight back into HB for another round.
Notably I have been lifting again, and am getting back to 30+ p'lups and have gotten a double with +100. Deads are back over 405, which used to be the warmup; but i really don't want to work Deads that heavy. I don't think it adds anything to the climbing.
Also since March I've gotten well over 850 miles on the mt. bike. I'm trying to keep some fitness on the bike, but it's become mighty cold and the trail is perma-mud for now. Blessedly i haven't so far gained much weight. Be just fine to hit next season with a decent base.
Thursday, November 7, 2019
Campus #4 and 5 S:11...and a bunch of biking and some lifting
Finished the season's Campus workouts yesterday. Did Campus #4 on 11.1.19, at which point i weighed in at 200. That was a slump workout, and i called it early so's not to invite injury. Both finger 3 pads were torn still, and although i glued 'em up and then taped heavily, i still bled. I was up 5 or so lbs, still not healed from lifting, and i think tired from trying at bouldering between sessions. Anyhow: sub-inspiring workout. But i tore some tendon down and built it back up.
Yesterday (11/6/19) did Campus #5. That was a different deal. Weighed in at 195 and had taken 4 full rest days from climbing. Best workout on the board yet. On Large rungs got 1-3-4, 1-3-5, and then 1-4-6 fairly easily. Kinda' wished i had another half step to shoot for. Moved to Medium rungs and got 1-3-4 easily. Then (drum roll) got 1-4-5! Finally, after 8,000 years of trying, i stuck and matched on that stupid rung! Funny thing is i got it first try leading left, then it took four tries leading right; but i got it! :)
Then moved to Bumps on Medium rungs. This time i tried for -2 to +4 (again, with trailing hand on rung 3). Touched, but didn't stick +4 with both hands leading for two sets, and was too tired to move off of +3 on a third set.
Moved to Small rungs for Jumpsticks. Again, these are just jumping from the ground and snagging a high rung in a match, then dropping once i have control. Did a set of 7 reps, then ended up getting 2 more sets of 10 reps.
This was a fantastic workout. I needed that--to see that progress is actually possible. Looking back over the last bunch of seasons, i've been just stagnant on Campusing. This was a shot in the arm.
I haven't recorded any other workouts on here for some reason, but have been doing them. I've toggled between a couple apps for cycling, so i've lost a few rides to the aether, but have put in around 800 miles this season on the bike. Have hit a bunch of PRs there, which is also encouraging.
Also i've been working out in the iron gym for around the last month--for the first time in around two years now. I couldn't say what mental disease has prevented me from recording any of these; but i have been there, and am making progress. I'm trying to keep this fairly informal just because i've the tendency to start hunting PRs or else give up and burn out. That's one explanation for the radio silence: i'm secretly afraid that if i look deeply or technically into the fact that i'm lifting that it will become a demanding entity that pushes other more important goals out of the way, and i absolutely don't want that. It's such an important augmenting workout that i need to keep it in the mix. I just don't want to get hung up making progress on weights and stay constantly torn down for climbing and cycling. Anyhow, did get in back work and some abs today, and will record that just for a benchmark ('cuz i don't care about the weights! I. Don't. Care.)
Deads:
21 x the bar
14 x 145 (They've got a weird mix of 45 and 55lb plates)
8 x 245
4 x 355
1 x 405
P'lups:
30 x BW (i think i was 197 clothed this morning)
10 x +25
6 x +50
4 x +75
2 x +90. Not too bad.
DB Rows:
10 x 90
8 x 100
4 x 110
Good Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135. Reeeeal careful on these. I will feel these in the morning.
High Narrow Cable Pulldowns:
Don't know...several sets. Got up to a set of 6 x 210 i thinks.
Hanging Leg Raises:
3 x 30. Getting easier maybe.
Now it's time to start climbing in earnest. What is very very clear is that i need to string seasons together more closely.
Yesterday (11/6/19) did Campus #5. That was a different deal. Weighed in at 195 and had taken 4 full rest days from climbing. Best workout on the board yet. On Large rungs got 1-3-4, 1-3-5, and then 1-4-6 fairly easily. Kinda' wished i had another half step to shoot for. Moved to Medium rungs and got 1-3-4 easily. Then (drum roll) got 1-4-5! Finally, after 8,000 years of trying, i stuck and matched on that stupid rung! Funny thing is i got it first try leading left, then it took four tries leading right; but i got it! :)
Then moved to Bumps on Medium rungs. This time i tried for -2 to +4 (again, with trailing hand on rung 3). Touched, but didn't stick +4 with both hands leading for two sets, and was too tired to move off of +3 on a third set.
Moved to Small rungs for Jumpsticks. Again, these are just jumping from the ground and snagging a high rung in a match, then dropping once i have control. Did a set of 7 reps, then ended up getting 2 more sets of 10 reps.
This was a fantastic workout. I needed that--to see that progress is actually possible. Looking back over the last bunch of seasons, i've been just stagnant on Campusing. This was a shot in the arm.
I haven't recorded any other workouts on here for some reason, but have been doing them. I've toggled between a couple apps for cycling, so i've lost a few rides to the aether, but have put in around 800 miles this season on the bike. Have hit a bunch of PRs there, which is also encouraging.
Also i've been working out in the iron gym for around the last month--for the first time in around two years now. I couldn't say what mental disease has prevented me from recording any of these; but i have been there, and am making progress. I'm trying to keep this fairly informal just because i've the tendency to start hunting PRs or else give up and burn out. That's one explanation for the radio silence: i'm secretly afraid that if i look deeply or technically into the fact that i'm lifting that it will become a demanding entity that pushes other more important goals out of the way, and i absolutely don't want that. It's such an important augmenting workout that i need to keep it in the mix. I just don't want to get hung up making progress on weights and stay constantly torn down for climbing and cycling. Anyhow, did get in back work and some abs today, and will record that just for a benchmark ('cuz i don't care about the weights! I. Don't. Care.)
Deads:
21 x the bar
14 x 145 (They've got a weird mix of 45 and 55lb plates)
8 x 245
4 x 355
1 x 405
P'lups:
30 x BW (i think i was 197 clothed this morning)
10 x +25
6 x +50
4 x +75
2 x +90. Not too bad.
DB Rows:
10 x 90
8 x 100
4 x 110
Good Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135. Reeeeal careful on these. I will feel these in the morning.
High Narrow Cable Pulldowns:
Don't know...several sets. Got up to a set of 6 x 210 i thinks.
Hanging Leg Raises:
3 x 30. Getting easier maybe.
Now it's time to start climbing in earnest. What is very very clear is that i need to string seasons together more closely.
Friday, November 1, 2019
Campus #2 & 3 S:11
Li'l mo' catch-up. On 10.22.19 did Campus #2 and on 10.28.19 did Campus #3. Weighed in at 195 and 197 clothed, respectively. Some very good workouts, and it's getting cold out--so better sticking weather.
It's amazing what being just 10 or 12 lbs lighter will do for a Campusing session.
The last time i'd stuck a 1-4-6 max ladder (large rungs) was in March 2018. I was in Washington then, and i didn't have a scale, so i don't really know what i weighed--but i think i was in the 207 range clothed. Also that was on Tension rungs, which i think are a bit more positive than the Metolius. Didn't even bother campusing last season.
Anyhow, nice uptick here; and it's been encouraging that i've dropped a few lbs and so far managed to keep it off.
So: on Large rungs i do a basic warmup ladder, then go to max ladders. No troubles with 1-3-4, then 1-3-5. Historically (as mentioned above) i've had trouble with 1-4-6, which is my max so far. I've stuck this and matched on the 2nd and 3rd seshes so far.
On Medium rungs it's ladders, and i've had no problems with 1-3-4. I haven't yet managed to stick 1-4-5. Very close on that though.
I've also added in a few tweaks to the Campus program, and i think it's helping a ton. For one, i'm adding in bumps on the medium rungs. On these i'm starting with the trailing hand as high as i can reach (on my board that'd be 3 rung) calling that 0 rung, and starting the leading hand as low as possible (so on the de facto -2 rung). This is both a lot more controlled than max ladders, and demands way more TUT than ladders. So far i've got from -2 to +3. Tore the skin on F3 last session, and that was limiting. Also i felt like i was pushing the hairy edge of tendinitis last session.
Also i've added in "jump/sticks" on the small rungs. Basically i jump up to the 3rd or 4th rung from the ground, hang it in a match, swing with it 'til it feels controlled, then drop. On 10.22 i did 2 sets of 5, then got a set of 10. That was brutal and wondrous. Last time around i was bleeding through my tape on the rungs, so i called it after a set of 5.
Good sessions so far. Vamos a ver.
It's amazing what being just 10 or 12 lbs lighter will do for a Campusing session.
The last time i'd stuck a 1-4-6 max ladder (large rungs) was in March 2018. I was in Washington then, and i didn't have a scale, so i don't really know what i weighed--but i think i was in the 207 range clothed. Also that was on Tension rungs, which i think are a bit more positive than the Metolius. Didn't even bother campusing last season.
Anyhow, nice uptick here; and it's been encouraging that i've dropped a few lbs and so far managed to keep it off.
So: on Large rungs i do a basic warmup ladder, then go to max ladders. No troubles with 1-3-4, then 1-3-5. Historically (as mentioned above) i've had trouble with 1-4-6, which is my max so far. I've stuck this and matched on the 2nd and 3rd seshes so far.
On Medium rungs it's ladders, and i've had no problems with 1-3-4. I haven't yet managed to stick 1-4-5. Very close on that though.
I've also added in a few tweaks to the Campus program, and i think it's helping a ton. For one, i'm adding in bumps on the medium rungs. On these i'm starting with the trailing hand as high as i can reach (on my board that'd be 3 rung) calling that 0 rung, and starting the leading hand as low as possible (so on the de facto -2 rung). This is both a lot more controlled than max ladders, and demands way more TUT than ladders. So far i've got from -2 to +3. Tore the skin on F3 last session, and that was limiting. Also i felt like i was pushing the hairy edge of tendinitis last session.
Also i've added in "jump/sticks" on the small rungs. Basically i jump up to the 3rd or 4th rung from the ground, hang it in a match, swing with it 'til it feels controlled, then drop. On 10.22 i did 2 sets of 5, then got a set of 10. That was brutal and wondrous. Last time around i was bleeding through my tape on the rungs, so i called it after a set of 5.
Good sessions so far. Vamos a ver.
Monday, October 14, 2019
Power HB and Campus #1 S:11
Once again, i haven't managed to keep up on posting workouts as they've occurred; but have, notwithstanding, been layin' 'em down. Ended up splitting the hangboarding into thirds. Did 3 workouts on the "Intermediate" timer, 3 on the "Heavy" timer and 3 on the "Power" timer. That worked out nicely, and i actually made it through the HB bit on schedule taking two off days between each workout. Historically, i've needed to take a solid 3-4 off days to recover well enough--especially toward the end. Can't say why i've recovered faster this time 'round, except i'm a few lbs lighter than the last several seasons.
I've posted already at least a representative workout on the Intermediate and Heavy timers, and will just recap Heavy and Power here for gains. That's tricky between timers for the obvious reason that they're not set up with the same set/rep numbers, or even in the same order of grips; but then, that's not the important part. Gains within a timer naturally make more sense, but these happen within basically one week. Which makes me wonder (again) why i don't try stringing these seasons together much more tightly. And indeed i may.
Also i'll spell out the set/rep/timing on the Power timer, as i botched up my first workout on that having forgotten the schema. It's definitely the most complicated, and for future reference i need to have several weights pre-set as they're really heavy and fiddly and in some cases require different cord lengths in order not to drag the ground. I'll note that when i record the final workout for that.
Yesterday i did get in Campus #1, and honestly i felt pretty good about it. I will think from season to season that i've lost strength, or did much better on these in a prior season, but the numbers say otherwise. I haven't, either, made any tidy gains--which is frustrating. Again, i feel i absolutely have to string these closer together if i'm ever going to see gains. In the meantime, it's nice not to have sustained losses.
Did add an innovation yesterday which i had only played with in the past, and which was--when applied methodically and intentionally--simply brutalizing. After doing what i could do on the medium and large rungs, i just did jump catches on the small rungs. Ended up dong 3 sets of 5 of these, and i think that might be the ticket to maybe one day getting strong enough to do ladders on 'em.
10.13.19 S:11 Campus #1 199lbs
Large:
WUL
1,3,4 Ladders: Got 'em
1,3,5 Ladders: Got 'em
3 tries for 1,4,6: Got very close with both hands, but didn't stick the match.
After these, i felt like i'd benefit from working Bumps harder. Feel like i'm not keeping pressure on the trailing hand.
Medium:
1,3,4 Ladders: Got 'em. Felt hard.
2 tries for 1,4,5: Again, touching the tops, but ain't sticking. Feel like i'm not twisting correctly.
3 sets of Bumps on each hand to 4th rung. Not bad!
Small:
As above, 3 sets of 5 jumps from the ground to catch and hang. These make me think the reason i'm unable to Ladder on the Smalls is almost entirely mental.
Next saturday is YnY, and methinks i shan't squeeze in another Campus workout prior. Will prolly put in a bouldering sesh in thet next day or two.
10.10.19 S:11 HB #9 "Power" 200lbs
**Important for the next go: The time per rep varies from set to set, and reps/set aren't linear. It's 4 sets/grip: 5 reps x 7sec/ 3 reps x 5sec/ 1 rep x 5sec/ 2 reps x 3sec. **
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +30: K Hard. Fingers feel slick.
2: +60: No fail
3: +90: Easy
4: +100: Yeah. Not bad! [Could definitely go heavier on these, but find if i burn it down here i'm trashed for the remainder of the session. Keep this grip up front because it functions as a very nice warmup for the subsequent grips.]
Small Crimp:
1: -50: Not bad
2: -20: Yeah, no fail. Not bad!
3: -10: Ha! No fail! That's improvement.
4: BW: Nope. Fail on this.
F 2,3,4 [Untape here. This is one to pre-set the weights.]:
1: +25: No fail.
2: +55: Just fine.
3: +90: No fail! Hard. This was improvement.
4: +110: Hard hard! Last sec. Also improvement.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No problemo.
2: +5: No fail.
3: +30: Got 3 sec.
4: +35: Woo. Got about 2 secs of each rep.
F 3,4,5:
1: -20: No fail. Not bad.
2: +10: Ooo...hard.
3: +35: Got 'bout 3 sec of that. Tweaky today.
4: +35: Got most of that.
Slopa':
1: +50: Woo. Tired here. Failed end of last rep.
2: +80: Ugh. Tired.
3: +110: No, wow. Just tired.
4: +110: Got one of 'em solid. Ugh. Actually hung 135 last session.
This was a god workout. As before, i need to string this to another season in a few weeks.
I've posted already at least a representative workout on the Intermediate and Heavy timers, and will just recap Heavy and Power here for gains. That's tricky between timers for the obvious reason that they're not set up with the same set/rep numbers, or even in the same order of grips; but then, that's not the important part. Gains within a timer naturally make more sense, but these happen within basically one week. Which makes me wonder (again) why i don't try stringing these seasons together much more tightly. And indeed i may.
Also i'll spell out the set/rep/timing on the Power timer, as i botched up my first workout on that having forgotten the schema. It's definitely the most complicated, and for future reference i need to have several weights pre-set as they're really heavy and fiddly and in some cases require different cord lengths in order not to drag the ground. I'll note that when i record the final workout for that.
Yesterday i did get in Campus #1, and honestly i felt pretty good about it. I will think from season to season that i've lost strength, or did much better on these in a prior season, but the numbers say otherwise. I haven't, either, made any tidy gains--which is frustrating. Again, i feel i absolutely have to string these closer together if i'm ever going to see gains. In the meantime, it's nice not to have sustained losses.
Did add an innovation yesterday which i had only played with in the past, and which was--when applied methodically and intentionally--simply brutalizing. After doing what i could do on the medium and large rungs, i just did jump catches on the small rungs. Ended up dong 3 sets of 5 of these, and i think that might be the ticket to maybe one day getting strong enough to do ladders on 'em.
10.13.19 S:11 Campus #1 199lbs
Large:
WUL
1,3,4 Ladders: Got 'em
1,3,5 Ladders: Got 'em
3 tries for 1,4,6: Got very close with both hands, but didn't stick the match.
After these, i felt like i'd benefit from working Bumps harder. Feel like i'm not keeping pressure on the trailing hand.
Medium:
1,3,4 Ladders: Got 'em. Felt hard.
2 tries for 1,4,5: Again, touching the tops, but ain't sticking. Feel like i'm not twisting correctly.
3 sets of Bumps on each hand to 4th rung. Not bad!
Small:
As above, 3 sets of 5 jumps from the ground to catch and hang. These make me think the reason i'm unable to Ladder on the Smalls is almost entirely mental.
Next saturday is YnY, and methinks i shan't squeeze in another Campus workout prior. Will prolly put in a bouldering sesh in thet next day or two.
10.10.19 S:11 HB #9 "Power" 200lbs
**Important for the next go: The time per rep varies from set to set, and reps/set aren't linear. It's 4 sets/grip: 5 reps x 7sec/ 3 reps x 5sec/ 1 rep x 5sec/ 2 reps x 3sec. **
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +30: K Hard. Fingers feel slick.
2: +60: No fail
3: +90: Easy
4: +100: Yeah. Not bad! [Could definitely go heavier on these, but find if i burn it down here i'm trashed for the remainder of the session. Keep this grip up front because it functions as a very nice warmup for the subsequent grips.]
Small Crimp:
1: -50: Not bad
2: -20: Yeah, no fail. Not bad!
3: -10: Ha! No fail! That's improvement.
4: BW: Nope. Fail on this.
F 2,3,4 [Untape here. This is one to pre-set the weights.]:
1: +25: No fail.
2: +55: Just fine.
3: +90: No fail! Hard. This was improvement.
4: +110: Hard hard! Last sec. Also improvement.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No problemo.
2: +5: No fail.
3: +30: Got 3 sec.
4: +35: Woo. Got about 2 secs of each rep.
F 3,4,5:
1: -20: No fail. Not bad.
2: +10: Ooo...hard.
3: +35: Got 'bout 3 sec of that. Tweaky today.
4: +35: Got most of that.
Slopa':
1: +50: Woo. Tired here. Failed end of last rep.
2: +80: Ugh. Tired.
3: +110: No, wow. Just tired.
4: +110: Got one of 'em solid. Ugh. Actually hung 135 last session.
This was a god workout. As before, i need to string this to another season in a few weeks.
Monday, September 30, 2019
HB #5 S:11 Heavy
A lapse since i've posted yet again. At any rate, have made it through a couple of workouts on the "Heavy" timer. Also weighed in at 198 last night which was down from 201 from the workouts prior. That was a nice touch.
I'm roughly comparing this to the last time i worked on Heavy timer which would'a' been HB #9 (4th workout on Heavy) from S:10 on 2/2/19. That day i weighed in at 206 clothed.
9.28.19 HB #5. Heavy Timer. 198 clothed.
WUJ: -15: Just fine
Large Open:
1: +10↓: No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30↓: No fail.
3: +50↓: No fail. Dropped the intensity here by design.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↔: No fail. Not too bad.
2: -40↔: No fail this time. Better.
3: -20↑: K. Got one solidly, then melted.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10↑: Much betta! No fail.
2: +10↑: No fail. HA!
3: +30↑: No fail. Yeah better.
Slopa':
1: +20↑: Last 3 secs last rep.
2: +40↑: Got 3 solid. Last 2 were sub-super.
3: +60↑: HaHa! No fail. Maybe cooler out.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: Alrighty. No fail. Li'l spicy at the end.
2: -20↑: K. 'Bout last 4 sec last rep. Whooo.
3: BW↑: Yeah. Last 3 sec last rep. Better.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔No fail, but hard at the end.
2: -25↔: Last 2 sec last rep.
3: -5↔: Last 2 sec. Bueno!
So, observations: It's tricky to compare workouts from season to season as there're so many variables (weight, temp, days of rest prior, etc.), but any way i slice it, i really haven't lost any substantial strength since February. That's comforting, 'cuz i really have been climbing much in the meantime. Some; but not much.
On the first of these Heavy workouts i upped the poundage on the Large Open grip, just because i was confident i could. However, i think it killed me for the remainder of the workout, which is why i didn't up it last season. Interesting to take it up and see what happened; and interesting that it did seem to affect the quality of the subsequent workout fairly substantially. Interesting because it's difficult to say what will and won't upset what comes after in a noticeable way. That's to say, the heterogeneity of the grips (basically, the finger joint angles, and joints involved) make it tricky to decide what order the whole thing should optimally follow. The Large Open, e.g., is one of the heavier (easier) grips, and also one of the least important for building strength on (as it's not that sort of grip that typically leads to failure on a route). But it's a nice first grip as it is relatively safe, and does notwithstanding invoke recruitment. It that place, though, it works out to be a kind of throwaway hold--a warmup. Nothing wrong with that if it vaults one stronger on the tiny holds; but then i'd wonder if i wouldn't benefit more still by taking the weight down yet another notch.
I'm roughly comparing this to the last time i worked on Heavy timer which would'a' been HB #9 (4th workout on Heavy) from S:10 on 2/2/19. That day i weighed in at 206 clothed.
9.28.19 HB #5. Heavy Timer. 198 clothed.
WUJ: -15: Just fine
Large Open:
1: +10↓: No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30↓: No fail.
3: +50↓: No fail. Dropped the intensity here by design.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↔: No fail. Not too bad.
2: -40↔: No fail this time. Better.
3: -20↑: K. Got one solidly, then melted.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10↑: Much betta! No fail.
2: +10↑: No fail. HA!
3: +30↑: No fail. Yeah better.
Slopa':
1: +20↑: Last 3 secs last rep.
2: +40↑: Got 3 solid. Last 2 were sub-super.
3: +60↑: HaHa! No fail. Maybe cooler out.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: Alrighty. No fail. Li'l spicy at the end.
2: -20↑: K. 'Bout last 4 sec last rep. Whooo.
3: BW↑: Yeah. Last 3 sec last rep. Better.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔No fail, but hard at the end.
2: -25↔: Last 2 sec last rep.
3: -5↔: Last 2 sec. Bueno!
So, observations: It's tricky to compare workouts from season to season as there're so many variables (weight, temp, days of rest prior, etc.), but any way i slice it, i really haven't lost any substantial strength since February. That's comforting, 'cuz i really have been climbing much in the meantime. Some; but not much.
On the first of these Heavy workouts i upped the poundage on the Large Open grip, just because i was confident i could. However, i think it killed me for the remainder of the workout, which is why i didn't up it last season. Interesting to take it up and see what happened; and interesting that it did seem to affect the quality of the subsequent workout fairly substantially. Interesting because it's difficult to say what will and won't upset what comes after in a noticeable way. That's to say, the heterogeneity of the grips (basically, the finger joint angles, and joints involved) make it tricky to decide what order the whole thing should optimally follow. The Large Open, e.g., is one of the heavier (easier) grips, and also one of the least important for building strength on (as it's not that sort of grip that typically leads to failure on a route). But it's a nice first grip as it is relatively safe, and does notwithstanding invoke recruitment. It that place, though, it works out to be a kind of throwaway hold--a warmup. Nothing wrong with that if it vaults one stronger on the tiny holds; but then i'd wonder if i wouldn't benefit more still by taking the weight down yet another notch.
Tuesday, September 24, 2019
S:11 Hangboarding Propa'
Posted earlier today about Enduro Hangboarding. Have, though, already made it through 3 sessions additionally of regular strength HBing. Going well enough, i think. Got through #3 two days ago, and that should do it for the "Intermediate" timer, which--as i've elucidated in earlier posts--feels more on the endurance side of strength training. I'll record #3 alone below for a waypost. Plan is tomorrow to move to the "Heavy" timer, God allowing. The "Intermediate" timer (to recap) comprises 8 grips (including the warmup jug), with 2 sets on each grip (excluding the WUJ). Sets are 7 and then 6 reps respectively, of 7 second reps with 3 second rests. Three minutes between each set. It's usually (but not always) about a 10 lb increase between sets.
9.22.19 HB #3 S:11 Intermediate Timer. 201 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +20↔: No fail, not bad.
2: +40↑: Failed last 2 sec last rep.
F 3,4:
1: -40↔: No fail. Better i think.
2: -30↔: Better! Got 4. Failed end of last 2. Real nervous about pushing these.
SemiClosed:
1: -20↔: Ooo...No fail. Hard.
2: -10↔: Got most of 4. Melted on last 2.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15↔: Ugh. toe down on the last 2 secs.
2: -5↔: Better. Got 4 clean. Last rep was a meltdown.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Whew! Got 6. Last rep was bad.
2: -30↔: K. Very end of 4th rep. Last two were fails.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got nearly 5. Better i think.
2: +25↑: Yup most of 4. Weight on these doesn't seem to be the limiter. Just can't seem to hang on longer than 4 reps. Kinda weird.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55↑: Got 'em all. That's a forward step.
2: -45↑: Got 3 clean. No bad! These though...these hurt. Feel arthritic after these.
Got about 3.5 weeks 'til YnY, and i'd love to get some campusing in prior. Plan is to do three workouts on the "Heavy" timer and then three workouts on the "Power" timer. May modify that to 4:2 as observation might recommend.
I'd also note that Mr. S.I. got in a second workout on the "Basic" timer, and is taking to that like a fish to water. He gun' be a strong climba if he keeps that up.
9.22.19 HB #3 S:11 Intermediate Timer. 201 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +20↔: No fail, not bad.
2: +40↑: Failed last 2 sec last rep.
F 3,4:
1: -40↔: No fail. Better i think.
2: -30↔: Better! Got 4. Failed end of last 2. Real nervous about pushing these.
SemiClosed:
1: -20↔: Ooo...No fail. Hard.
2: -10↔: Got most of 4. Melted on last 2.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15↔: Ugh. toe down on the last 2 secs.
2: -5↔: Better. Got 4 clean. Last rep was a meltdown.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Whew! Got 6. Last rep was bad.
2: -30↔: K. Very end of 4th rep. Last two were fails.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got nearly 5. Better i think.
2: +25↑: Yup most of 4. Weight on these doesn't seem to be the limiter. Just can't seem to hang on longer than 4 reps. Kinda weird.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55↑: Got 'em all. That's a forward step.
2: -45↑: Got 3 clean. No bad! These though...these hurt. Feel arthritic after these.
Got about 3.5 weeks 'til YnY, and i'd love to get some campusing in prior. Plan is to do three workouts on the "Heavy" timer and then three workouts on the "Power" timer. May modify that to 4:2 as observation might recommend.
I'd also note that Mr. S.I. got in a second workout on the "Basic" timer, and is taking to that like a fish to water. He gun' be a strong climba if he keeps that up.
Season 11
Been a weird one so far, which is perfectly commensurate with the ambient span of time against which it finds itself having been weird.
Nuts and bolts-wise, I just did what normally would be considered Hangboard #3 for the season (on 9/22/19). And that'd be after after a very solid 7 months' hiatus since the last season's hangboarding. However, this time round i did the Enduro sessions on the hangboard as well. Designed a timer and weighting scheme to try and mock up endurance climbing on the board. Quite tricky really, and it remains to be seen how it'll transfer.
For the Enduro workout i picked 10 grips. Timer's set up for 2 sets per grip, although i cycle through the whole workout and start over for the subsequent set. Each set comprises 10 reps, and each rep is a 15 second hang with 3 secs' rest. Two minutes' rest between sets. That gives a 5:1 duty cycle (which is probably excessive) and after two sets on each grip, a TUT of 50 minutes. The tricky bit here is nailing the load. I didn't treat it too fastidiously respecting weight off, as the point is to more-or-less mock climbing for the amount of time. But it was interesting to see how much weight i'd need to take off to hang on those holds for that amount of time. Fun science project, and I gotta say i found next to nothing out there by way of informing this kind of training. Seems most folks do endurance on a hangboard by sticking jibs about their door frame moving their hands hither and thither. And the thing is, that's what this workout ended up not being like. I think mostly due to the duty cycle, this ended up being more of a brutally long, lactate threshold workout. Which could pan out to be a fabulous and (more importantly) repeatable and measurable breed of endurance training.
Ended up doing 4 Enduro workouts, which would (in theory) take the place of ARCing. The first 3 went through the timer twice for 50 minutes' TUT. The 4th went through thrice for 75 minutes' TUT. I'll only record the 4th to spare tedium. Also, just prior to this last one i installed a fan on the boards, which is one of my more brilliant feats of progression.
9.12.19 HB #4 S:11 Enduro. 200lbs clothed.
Jug:
1: -60: No fail
2: -70: No fail
3: -80: No fail
Large Open:
1: -60↓: No fail, Massive pump.
2: -75: Ugh. Last 3 sec last rep.
3: -95...
Small Crimp:
1: -90: Whew. Megapump. No fail.
2: -105: End of last 4.
3: -115: Don't know. Maybe 5.
F 3,4,5:
1: -75: No fail. Ach!
2: -95: No fail. Ok
3: -110: No fail. Harness is sub-comfortable.
Slopa':
1: -75↓: Ugh. No fail.
2: -95: Think i got 4.
3: -110: Not sure...6ish.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -105: AAAAaa! No fail.
2: -115: Bleh. Botched it up.
3: -115: K 6ish +/-
F 2,3,4:
1: -75↓: No fail. Not bad.
2: -95: 'Bout right. Toasty burn, no fail.
3: -110: No fail. Ok.
SemiClosed:
1: -85↓: No fail. Better.
2: -105: Yup no fail. Correct.
3: -115: No fail. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -100↓: Last 2 sec last rep. About right.
2: -115: Think i got 6.
3: -115: Spotty. Got 6+.
F 3,4:
1: -105↓: No fail.
2: -115: No fail.
3: -115: No fail. To je vsetko.
Worked out to be a brutal Enduro sesh. Some observations: 1) The sets decrease in weight from set to set--so more like traditional pyramid to failure schema as on weights. 2) I never took off more than 115 as the system becomes sketchy, and the exercise becomes sorta pointless. At my weight, it worked out ok at any rate. 3) When i mention "failure" it's in the loosest sense. Basically, it involves putting a toe down and taking off as little weight as possible to continue hanging. Don't really care about failure (except insofar as it gives me a metric for somewhat-objective improvement from one workout to the next) as the whole thing is about hanging on for the projected TUT; but i will say the weight off--when correct--takes a lot of fudge factor out, and makes me more honest about how much work i'm doing.
Nuts and bolts-wise, I just did what normally would be considered Hangboard #3 for the season (on 9/22/19). And that'd be after after a very solid 7 months' hiatus since the last season's hangboarding. However, this time round i did the Enduro sessions on the hangboard as well. Designed a timer and weighting scheme to try and mock up endurance climbing on the board. Quite tricky really, and it remains to be seen how it'll transfer.
For the Enduro workout i picked 10 grips. Timer's set up for 2 sets per grip, although i cycle through the whole workout and start over for the subsequent set. Each set comprises 10 reps, and each rep is a 15 second hang with 3 secs' rest. Two minutes' rest between sets. That gives a 5:1 duty cycle (which is probably excessive) and after two sets on each grip, a TUT of 50 minutes. The tricky bit here is nailing the load. I didn't treat it too fastidiously respecting weight off, as the point is to more-or-less mock climbing for the amount of time. But it was interesting to see how much weight i'd need to take off to hang on those holds for that amount of time. Fun science project, and I gotta say i found next to nothing out there by way of informing this kind of training. Seems most folks do endurance on a hangboard by sticking jibs about their door frame moving their hands hither and thither. And the thing is, that's what this workout ended up not being like. I think mostly due to the duty cycle, this ended up being more of a brutally long, lactate threshold workout. Which could pan out to be a fabulous and (more importantly) repeatable and measurable breed of endurance training.
Ended up doing 4 Enduro workouts, which would (in theory) take the place of ARCing. The first 3 went through the timer twice for 50 minutes' TUT. The 4th went through thrice for 75 minutes' TUT. I'll only record the 4th to spare tedium. Also, just prior to this last one i installed a fan on the boards, which is one of my more brilliant feats of progression.
9.12.19 HB #4 S:11 Enduro. 200lbs clothed.
Jug:
1: -60: No fail
2: -70: No fail
3: -80: No fail
Large Open:
1: -60↓: No fail, Massive pump.
2: -75: Ugh. Last 3 sec last rep.
3: -95...
Small Crimp:
1: -90: Whew. Megapump. No fail.
2: -105: End of last 4.
3: -115: Don't know. Maybe 5.
F 3,4,5:
1: -75: No fail. Ach!
2: -95: No fail. Ok
3: -110: No fail. Harness is sub-comfortable.
Slopa':
1: -75↓: Ugh. No fail.
2: -95: Think i got 4.
3: -110: Not sure...6ish.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -105: AAAAaa! No fail.
2: -115: Bleh. Botched it up.
3: -115: K 6ish +/-
F 2,3,4:
1: -75↓: No fail. Not bad.
2: -95: 'Bout right. Toasty burn, no fail.
3: -110: No fail. Ok.
SemiClosed:
1: -85↓: No fail. Better.
2: -105: Yup no fail. Correct.
3: -115: No fail. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -100↓: Last 2 sec last rep. About right.
2: -115: Think i got 6.
3: -115: Spotty. Got 6+.
F 3,4:
1: -105↓: No fail.
2: -115: No fail.
3: -115: No fail. To je vsetko.
Worked out to be a brutal Enduro sesh. Some observations: 1) The sets decrease in weight from set to set--so more like traditional pyramid to failure schema as on weights. 2) I never took off more than 115 as the system becomes sketchy, and the exercise becomes sorta pointless. At my weight, it worked out ok at any rate. 3) When i mention "failure" it's in the loosest sense. Basically, it involves putting a toe down and taking off as little weight as possible to continue hanging. Don't really care about failure (except insofar as it gives me a metric for somewhat-objective improvement from one workout to the next) as the whole thing is about hanging on for the projected TUT; but i will say the weight off--when correct--takes a lot of fudge factor out, and makes me more honest about how much work i'm doing.
Thursday, February 14, 2019
HB #10 S:10 Power HB
Would’a’ been last Sunday—so 2/10/19–i put together (and subsequently threw down a beta run on) a new HB program designed for power. It felt experimental as i’m honestly not good enough on it yet to say whether or not the set/rep scheme is appropriate. That is to say, there’s without a doubt going to be a learning curve to this before the jury can properly convene. The problem, naturally, is this: how do you force and then test true power (i.e. a one-rep max) on an essentially static exercise—the problem compounded with the testing of relatively small muscle groups? Of course the campus board is the gold standard, but the problem there is that you either stick or catastrophically fail. Ergo, my attempt at a one-rep max(ish) HB system.
I had trouble deciding on what would be a “one-rep max” for this purpose. The “reps” heretofore have been seven second hangs, but that seems excessively endurance-y for a max. By contrast, a one or two second hang amounts to slowing down the fall whilst failing. As such, I settled for a split set of a five second single, and then a heavier-still three second double.
Did stick (as with the “Heavy” program) with seven grips, including WUJ. Did rearrange them with Slope last, as that i’d deem the least important.
Settled, then, on four sets per grip. Rest between reps is always 3 seconds where that matters. Set 1 is 5 reps of 7 seconds. Three minute rest. Set 2 is 3 reps of 5 seconds. Two minute rest. Set 3 is 1 rep of 5 seconds. Two minute rest. Set 4 is 2 reps of 3 seconds. Three minutes between grips. I fancied increasing by about 30# between sets, but that didn’t work in many instances. Gunna take some tinkering to nail the weights, but I wasn’t completely outta the ballpark for most of ‘em.
Weighed in at 207 clothed.
WUJ: -15. As usual.
Large Open: (Kept this first as it makes a pretty fine warmup)
1: +30: No fail.
2: +60: No fail.
3: +90: No fail. Hard.
4: +100: Real hard...workin’ the thumb catch.
Small Crimp: (Kept this here ‘cuz it’s the hardest grip)
1: -45: No fail. I took this down a notch from prior workout, but honestly not enough.
2: -20: End of last rep.
3: -10: Last 1/2 second.
4: BW: woo. Barely got my toes to break free from earth. Need less weight at the beginning.
F 2/3/4: [untape here]
1: +25. No fail.
2: +55: No fail.
3: +85: Ha! No fail. Hard.
4: +95: No fail. Mighty hard.
SemiClosed: (Moved this up in the queue from the Heavy as i felt it was more important)
1: -25: K. No fail.
2: +5: Toe down last 1/2 second.
3: +35: Yeah, nope. Got a couple o’ seconds.
4: +35: Got some of that. Maybe ‘bout right.
F 3/4/5: (This also moved up in the queue)
1: -20: No fail, but hard.
2: +10: Last sec last rep.
3: +30: last 1/2 second.
4: +40: No fail (barely).
Slopa’:
1: +50: No fail.
2: +100. Bleh. Decrease. Got 1ish.
3: +110: Last second.
4: +115: Probably not.
So: i’d say the right progression is going to be about 30# between first 3 sets, and about 10# between last two sets. This really worked out to be a nice workout. Overarching idea is to alternate this (kinda in lieu of “limit bouldering”) with campusing sessions. Did go on Tuesday to the gym with J and pulled down a few projects. Didn’t ,as such, campus.
I had trouble deciding on what would be a “one-rep max” for this purpose. The “reps” heretofore have been seven second hangs, but that seems excessively endurance-y for a max. By contrast, a one or two second hang amounts to slowing down the fall whilst failing. As such, I settled for a split set of a five second single, and then a heavier-still three second double.
Did stick (as with the “Heavy” program) with seven grips, including WUJ. Did rearrange them with Slope last, as that i’d deem the least important.
Settled, then, on four sets per grip. Rest between reps is always 3 seconds where that matters. Set 1 is 5 reps of 7 seconds. Three minute rest. Set 2 is 3 reps of 5 seconds. Two minute rest. Set 3 is 1 rep of 5 seconds. Two minute rest. Set 4 is 2 reps of 3 seconds. Three minutes between grips. I fancied increasing by about 30# between sets, but that didn’t work in many instances. Gunna take some tinkering to nail the weights, but I wasn’t completely outta the ballpark for most of ‘em.
Weighed in at 207 clothed.
WUJ: -15. As usual.
Large Open: (Kept this first as it makes a pretty fine warmup)
1: +30: No fail.
2: +60: No fail.
3: +90: No fail. Hard.
4: +100: Real hard...workin’ the thumb catch.
Small Crimp: (Kept this here ‘cuz it’s the hardest grip)
1: -45: No fail. I took this down a notch from prior workout, but honestly not enough.
2: -20: End of last rep.
3: -10: Last 1/2 second.
4: BW: woo. Barely got my toes to break free from earth. Need less weight at the beginning.
F 2/3/4: [untape here]
1: +25. No fail.
2: +55: No fail.
3: +85: Ha! No fail. Hard.
4: +95: No fail. Mighty hard.
SemiClosed: (Moved this up in the queue from the Heavy as i felt it was more important)
1: -25: K. No fail.
2: +5: Toe down last 1/2 second.
3: +35: Yeah, nope. Got a couple o’ seconds.
4: +35: Got some of that. Maybe ‘bout right.
F 3/4/5: (This also moved up in the queue)
1: -20: No fail, but hard.
2: +10: Last sec last rep.
3: +30: last 1/2 second.
4: +40: No fail (barely).
Slopa’:
1: +50: No fail.
2: +100. Bleh. Decrease. Got 1ish.
3: +110: Last second.
4: +115: Probably not.
So: i’d say the right progression is going to be about 30# between first 3 sets, and about 10# between last two sets. This really worked out to be a nice workout. Overarching idea is to alternate this (kinda in lieu of “limit bouldering”) with campusing sessions. Did go on Tuesday to the gym with J and pulled down a few projects. Didn’t ,as such, campus.
Saturday, February 2, 2019
HB #9 S:10
So today was the last of the typical 9 sessions on the Hangboard. Weighed in at 206, and despite being still about 5lbs heavier than for the correlating session last season (last October), i still made gains respecting weights used; so that's mighty encouraging. Was a pretty perfect day for it out there, as it was cold enough to stick well, but i could still feel my hands.
To recap, i did five sessions with the "Intermediate" plan, which works out to be more of an endurance-weighted strength matrix. Then did the last four session on the "Heavy" plan, which i designed and which (i find) is more of a power-weighted strength matrix. Fewer grips, but more sets, and the weight typically jumps 20 lbs between sets. This one is built on a 7/5/3 reps pyramid. Reps are seven seconds with three seconds' rest between.
I still don't feel like it's a true power program as the heaviest set is still three reps of it. But it's closer. Obviously, if i want to push power it'll come down to a single rep; but it's not clear how feasible that is seeing as it's an essentially isometric exercise. In other words, it's hard to force the generation of 100% effort in a single rep with an isometric exercise: you basically just fail miserably or you don't fail, in a binary sort of fashion.
But the more i do it, the less i'm sure that's necessarily the case. I'm wondering if i couldn't use shorter reps--say 4-5 seconds--and a truncated pyramid to ratchet into the 100% range for the one shorter rep for each grip. Could even base a matrix on the 5/3/1 style workout.
At any rate, i'm'a play with an experimental timer. And at any rate, today's was a pretty fine session.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10↔: No fail, but hard today.
2: +30↔: Yeah hard. No fail. Warmer out?
3: +50↔: No fail.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↔: Not bad.
2: -40↔: Ok. no fail. Was ready for another rep.
3: -20↔: Better! Got 2 clean with meltdown on the 3rd. That puts me at least where i was last season, and better than last sesh by a solid rep.
F 2,3,4: [Untape here]
1: +5↑: No fail, but def harder at the end.
2: +25↑: Weird. That's a 15# increase from last session, and a 20# incr from last season. No fail.
3: +50↑: 5# incr. Ha! No fail! That's better than last season, obesity notwithstanding.
Slopa':
1: +20↔: Last 2 secs last rep. Better!
2: +40↔: Last 1.5 secs last rep. better again!
3: +90↑: Ha. Got 2 solid. Last 4 secs last rep.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: No fail. Not bad.
2: -20↔: Woo. End of last 2. Tired for this.
3: +5↔: Ugh. That was a meltdown. Got 'bout 5 secs of 1st rep, then fail. Feeling the work from the increases on prior sets.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔: No fail, but barely. Hard. Tired.
2: -25↔: Last 1-2 secs last 2 reps. Better, actually.
3: -5↔: Ha. Got 2 solid. Fingers shifted on the last rep and i lost it. Not bad there. Good workout.
So now i go to campusing, and i think i'm going to experiment with a heavier timer still.
I'm still traveling, so i'm only home to get a session in about once/week. That could work out just fine.
To recap, i did five sessions with the "Intermediate" plan, which works out to be more of an endurance-weighted strength matrix. Then did the last four session on the "Heavy" plan, which i designed and which (i find) is more of a power-weighted strength matrix. Fewer grips, but more sets, and the weight typically jumps 20 lbs between sets. This one is built on a 7/5/3 reps pyramid. Reps are seven seconds with three seconds' rest between.
I still don't feel like it's a true power program as the heaviest set is still three reps of it. But it's closer. Obviously, if i want to push power it'll come down to a single rep; but it's not clear how feasible that is seeing as it's an essentially isometric exercise. In other words, it's hard to force the generation of 100% effort in a single rep with an isometric exercise: you basically just fail miserably or you don't fail, in a binary sort of fashion.
But the more i do it, the less i'm sure that's necessarily the case. I'm wondering if i couldn't use shorter reps--say 4-5 seconds--and a truncated pyramid to ratchet into the 100% range for the one shorter rep for each grip. Could even base a matrix on the 5/3/1 style workout.
At any rate, i'm'a play with an experimental timer. And at any rate, today's was a pretty fine session.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10↔: No fail, but hard today.
2: +30↔: Yeah hard. No fail. Warmer out?
3: +50↔: No fail.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↔: Not bad.
2: -40↔: Ok. no fail. Was ready for another rep.
3: -20↔: Better! Got 2 clean with meltdown on the 3rd. That puts me at least where i was last season, and better than last sesh by a solid rep.
F 2,3,4: [Untape here]
1: +5↑: No fail, but def harder at the end.
2: +25↑: Weird. That's a 15# increase from last session, and a 20# incr from last season. No fail.
3: +50↑: 5# incr. Ha! No fail! That's better than last season, obesity notwithstanding.
Slopa':
1: +20↔: Last 2 secs last rep. Better!
2: +40↔: Last 1.5 secs last rep. better again!
3: +90↑: Ha. Got 2 solid. Last 4 secs last rep.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: No fail. Not bad.
2: -20↔: Woo. End of last 2. Tired for this.
3: +5↔: Ugh. That was a meltdown. Got 'bout 5 secs of 1st rep, then fail. Feeling the work from the increases on prior sets.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔: No fail, but barely. Hard. Tired.
2: -25↔: Last 1-2 secs last 2 reps. Better, actually.
3: -5↔: Ha. Got 2 solid. Fingers shifted on the last rep and i lost it. Not bad there. Good workout.
So now i go to campusing, and i think i'm going to experiment with a heavier timer still.
I'm still traveling, so i'm only home to get a session in about once/week. That could work out just fine.
Sunday, January 27, 2019
HB #8 Season 10
I have not gotten the chance to write in a long time, so I'm skipping some workouts here. Started work in Querque, and got a temporary membership at Stone Age, but their hangboard setup--while a neat idea--is so ghetto and so poorly kept that when the weight stack blew apart on me for the third time i just gave up. Tried to tell one of the high schoolers that manage the place about it so someone didn't get hurt, and they couldn't be bothered with it. So i'm just putting down a couple o' climb sessions during the week and hangboarding when i'm home on the weekends. That's stretching my season out significantly.
Because it's been so protracted, it's a li'l hard to compare my results through the season. E.g., on my last posting (HB #5) right after Christmas i weighed in at 214 clothed. Today i weighed in at 206 clothed. So tricky to claim the gains it looks like i've made on paper 'cuz i'm 8lbs lighter (which, by the way, i'm thankful for).
Anyhow, HB #8 today (would'a' been #9, but i scrapped the session at Stone Age). Notably, i'm hitting approximately the same weights i used for the corresponding workout in Season 9, which was in early October; but i weigh about 4 lbs heavier still. Also notably, i tore the skin on my right finger pad bouldering yesterday, and that put a bit of a damper on today's workout. I did superglue it, which helped; but the small crimps were scary. Ended up not making it a lot worse, but i'm'a hafta take some time off to let it heal.
HB #8 S:10
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10↔: No fail
2: +30↔: No fail, but li'l hard with the torn skin.
3: +50↔: No fail. Hard a bit. Tired maybe.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↑: Yeah. No fail. Not bad.
2: -40↑: Woo. No fail, but that was hard.
3: -20↔: Got 1 solid. Skin tearing.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10↑: Huh. No fail. Not bad.
2: +10↑: HA! No fail!
3: +45↑: No fail. That's a 15# incr and is where i left off on HB 9 last season 4lbs lighter. :)
Slopa':
1: +20↔: Again, last 2-3 secs last 2 reps.
2: +40↔: Weird. Same as last week, last 1-3 secs.
3: +80↑: Woo wee. last 4 sec last rep. 1st 2 clean. Hard.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: Woot. Very spicy at the end. Hard.
2: -20↔: Last 2-4 secs last 2 reps.
3: +5↑: Failed last 3 secs last rep. Hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔: Yeah Painful. Skin's tearing.
2: Here i converted back to Small Crimp @ -45 x 5r. Melted down on last 2 reps.
3: Same. Small crimp edge @ -25 x 3. Got most of the first rep. Terrible.
Overall a fine session, and i'm thankful to have lost some weight. In light of the skin tear this was an encouraging sesh.
I will also note that i'e been somewhat consistent with ab work, but not much else. At any rate, that's feeling easier as well for now.
Because it's been so protracted, it's a li'l hard to compare my results through the season. E.g., on my last posting (HB #5) right after Christmas i weighed in at 214 clothed. Today i weighed in at 206 clothed. So tricky to claim the gains it looks like i've made on paper 'cuz i'm 8lbs lighter (which, by the way, i'm thankful for).
Anyhow, HB #8 today (would'a' been #9, but i scrapped the session at Stone Age). Notably, i'm hitting approximately the same weights i used for the corresponding workout in Season 9, which was in early October; but i weigh about 4 lbs heavier still. Also notably, i tore the skin on my right finger pad bouldering yesterday, and that put a bit of a damper on today's workout. I did superglue it, which helped; but the small crimps were scary. Ended up not making it a lot worse, but i'm'a hafta take some time off to let it heal.
HB #8 S:10
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10↔: No fail
2: +30↔: No fail, but li'l hard with the torn skin.
3: +50↔: No fail. Hard a bit. Tired maybe.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↑: Yeah. No fail. Not bad.
2: -40↑: Woo. No fail, but that was hard.
3: -20↔: Got 1 solid. Skin tearing.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10↑: Huh. No fail. Not bad.
2: +10↑: HA! No fail!
3: +45↑: No fail. That's a 15# incr and is where i left off on HB 9 last season 4lbs lighter. :)
Slopa':
1: +20↔: Again, last 2-3 secs last 2 reps.
2: +40↔: Weird. Same as last week, last 1-3 secs.
3: +80↑: Woo wee. last 4 sec last rep. 1st 2 clean. Hard.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: Woot. Very spicy at the end. Hard.
2: -20↔: Last 2-4 secs last 2 reps.
3: +5↑: Failed last 3 secs last rep. Hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔: Yeah Painful. Skin's tearing.
2: Here i converted back to Small Crimp @ -45 x 5r. Melted down on last 2 reps.
3: Same. Small crimp edge @ -25 x 3. Got most of the first rep. Terrible.
Overall a fine session, and i'm thankful to have lost some weight. In light of the skin tear this was an encouraging sesh.
I will also note that i'e been somewhat consistent with ab work, but not much else. At any rate, that's feeling easier as well for now.
Tuesday, January 1, 2019
HB #5 S:10
So: last of the Intermediate HBs for the season today. Weighed in at 212 lbs. Still up about 10 lbs from HB #5 in Sept, which actually means i've made pretty good progress strength-wise.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail.
2: +25: Got those. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Hard.
2: -25: Inc here. Ugh. Got 2 clean, then just got tweaky.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: easy 'til the last rep.
2: -10: Incr. OK! Last 3ish sec last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10: Incr. Eeee. Last 3 sec last 2 reps. 'Bout right.
2: BW: Incr. Got 3 clean. No meltdown, but hard.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40: Better. Got 5 solid.
2: -30: Feelin' some burn on that. Got 3ish.
Slopa':
1: BW: Maybe 4. Whew.
2: +10: Well. Got most of 4. Then melted.
Narrow:
1: -65: Got nearly 5. So better.
2: -55: Oh man. 3ish. Then meltdown.
Good workout really. Got some lard to shed, but actually got some gains on several grips even with the extra weight. Yeah, not bad.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail.
2: +25: Got those. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Hard.
2: -25: Inc here. Ugh. Got 2 clean, then just got tweaky.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: easy 'til the last rep.
2: -10: Incr. OK! Last 3ish sec last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10: Incr. Eeee. Last 3 sec last 2 reps. 'Bout right.
2: BW: Incr. Got 3 clean. No meltdown, but hard.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40: Better. Got 5 solid.
2: -30: Feelin' some burn on that. Got 3ish.
Slopa':
1: BW: Maybe 4. Whew.
2: +10: Well. Got most of 4. Then melted.
Narrow:
1: -65: Got nearly 5. So better.
2: -55: Oh man. 3ish. Then meltdown.
Good workout really. Got some lard to shed, but actually got some gains on several grips even with the extra weight. Yeah, not bad.
Saturday, December 29, 2018
Season 10
Have started Season 10, albeit sorta ambiguously. For ARCing this time 'round i basically got in 3 or 4 sessions of 10-15 climbs. Not optimal at all, but finding a belayer with an attention span longer than 10mins is tricky. Not really possible to traverse long enough on that wall as it's currently set up. So not much in the way of enduro. Am contemplating some way to set up a mini-wall or otherwise set up some hangboards so as to do some proper endurance sessions, and I do think that'll be possible, but haven't worked that out yet.
Have started hangboarding, and that's actually been less depressing. The last two or so months have been miserable. I work in the middle of nowhere, and it's dark when i leave and dark when i get back home. And freezing. So not terribly inspiring. And then i partially tore a calf muscle and haven't been able to run or ride. So i've gotten horribly outta shape and fatter than i've been in a very long time. Hangboarded a few days ago at 210 clothed. That's depressing, just 'cuz it takes months and months of constant work to pare my blubber down to sub-whale status, and then it takes nothing at all--an injury, a less-than-optimal work situation--for it to all go to hell. But on the flip side, even though i'm working out 6-8 lbs heavier this go round, i really haven't lost any strength in my hands. So there's light. If i can unload the toxins and lard, there might be some decent muscle buried in there.
[Never got around to publishing first 3 Hangboard seshes up through 12/25/18 from the bit above. Today I did HB #4 for Season 10. Weighed in clothed at a depressing 214, which is a new high; but that also made several grips de facto PRs, 'cuz i actually went up on a few grips, new layer of blubber notwithstanding. It was about 13degrees out there this morning, and it was tricky to feel my hands.
Notably, i did also get in a 30ish minute run a few days ago. And while it was ....well, it was ugly, i didn't feel like my calf was going to unravel. So there's hope.]
HB #4 S:10 12/29/18 214lbs clothed:
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15↔: No fail.
2: +25: Same, no fail. Not bad. Very cold.
F 2,3:
1: -40↔: No fail, but mighty spicy at the end.
2: -30↔: Toe down last bit of the last two reps. I think I could'a' warmed up better, and, again, i was 4lbs heavier.
SemiClosed:
1: -25↔: No fail, but super pumpy.
2: -15↔: Last coupla secs last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -12.5↑: HA! No fail! That's a proper improvement all around on the last workout.
2: -2.5↑: Not bad! Toe down at the end of the last 2 reps.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Woo, bleh. Foot down on the last 3 reps.
2: -30↔: Ugh--horrible. Can't feel my hands.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got 4. Bleh. I felt bad about this, but this was the same as last workout excepting i'm heavier.
2: +10↔: Got 3. Ugh. Same.
Narrow:
1: -65↑: Got 4 clean, then meltdown.
2: -55↑: Got 3 clean.
Very hard to feel too bad about this workout. Actually went up in iron even without figuring in my puffier butt. If I can keep stringing seasons together without losing all my gains in between, and then also lose some flab, i might see some real progress this time 'round.
Have started hangboarding, and that's actually been less depressing. The last two or so months have been miserable. I work in the middle of nowhere, and it's dark when i leave and dark when i get back home. And freezing. So not terribly inspiring. And then i partially tore a calf muscle and haven't been able to run or ride. So i've gotten horribly outta shape and fatter than i've been in a very long time. Hangboarded a few days ago at 210 clothed. That's depressing, just 'cuz it takes months and months of constant work to pare my blubber down to sub-whale status, and then it takes nothing at all--an injury, a less-than-optimal work situation--for it to all go to hell. But on the flip side, even though i'm working out 6-8 lbs heavier this go round, i really haven't lost any strength in my hands. So there's light. If i can unload the toxins and lard, there might be some decent muscle buried in there.
[Never got around to publishing first 3 Hangboard seshes up through 12/25/18 from the bit above. Today I did HB #4 for Season 10. Weighed in clothed at a depressing 214, which is a new high; but that also made several grips de facto PRs, 'cuz i actually went up on a few grips, new layer of blubber notwithstanding. It was about 13degrees out there this morning, and it was tricky to feel my hands.
Notably, i did also get in a 30ish minute run a few days ago. And while it was ....well, it was ugly, i didn't feel like my calf was going to unravel. So there's hope.]
HB #4 S:10 12/29/18 214lbs clothed:
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15↔: No fail.
2: +25: Same, no fail. Not bad. Very cold.
F 2,3:
1: -40↔: No fail, but mighty spicy at the end.
2: -30↔: Toe down last bit of the last two reps. I think I could'a' warmed up better, and, again, i was 4lbs heavier.
SemiClosed:
1: -25↔: No fail, but super pumpy.
2: -15↔: Last coupla secs last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -12.5↑: HA! No fail! That's a proper improvement all around on the last workout.
2: -2.5↑: Not bad! Toe down at the end of the last 2 reps.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Woo, bleh. Foot down on the last 3 reps.
2: -30↔: Ugh--horrible. Can't feel my hands.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got 4. Bleh. I felt bad about this, but this was the same as last workout excepting i'm heavier.
2: +10↔: Got 3. Ugh. Same.
Narrow:
1: -65↑: Got 4 clean, then meltdown.
2: -55↑: Got 3 clean.
Very hard to feel too bad about this workout. Actually went up in iron even without figuring in my puffier butt. If I can keep stringing seasons together without losing all my gains in between, and then also lose some flab, i might see some real progress this time 'round.
Saturday, December 1, 2018
Season 9 End
OK. Long time no posty. Right then.
I'm calling it on Season 9. Weird ending, but some lessons to be gleaned.
Great HB season (see last post) and i'm looking forward to starting that again. Got in 3 total Campus sessions. Evening prior to Y&Y i went out for a sprint workout, and for reasons that evade me, i nearly ruptured a calf muscle. Did Y&Y basically in Karate Kid mode, knowing i couldn't fall. Didn't have a bad showing, considering; but that was more or less season-ending.
Notably, did get down to about 196lbs then. That's the lowest i've been in a loooong time, but it's possible.
Did get in i think more Campus workouts after that, but they weren't good. One thing i certainly would note is that i've lost a lot of core strength. Hands are stronger than they've ever been, but on the Campus board i can't get the reaches i was getting last season. Need badly to start on the iron again.
And that really leads to the next thing needing a work-around. Got m' job back routesetting, and have a gym, but 1) it is horrible, and 2) i work in the opposite direction. Between having functionally no access to the gym, being to present unable to run or ride a bike, and the 20 degree days, i'm just rotting. There's a light at the end of the tunnel with a new job impending; but that's a ways off still. And scary in its own right.
I need a way to workout basically daily if possible. And i need a way to climb at home. I'ma try to install a landmine, which would make my rack way better and more versatile. I'm hoping to get a decent bench also. That'll be a start.
Doing Endurance work for climbing is trickier. I could design a Hangboard workout that is straight endurance. The trouble there is it will be hard to mock up my actual weight. I'm thinking I could create a an endurance "hangboard" out of a couple sheets of plywood, though, that would allow actual constant contact. And it would be easier to up-modulate the intensity. Kind of a vertical system wall. It would be boring, but significantly less lame than going to the weak-sauce, uninspired college wall here and finding it's once again randomly closed for no discernible reason.
My calf still tweaketh with stretching or loads even 6 weeks later. I damaged it propa'. But it is healing. It's just seriously taken the wind outta my sails. I've gotten just straight fat after doing nearly nothing for a month or so. Gotta gotta gotta get back in the ring. Got to.
I'm calling it on Season 9. Weird ending, but some lessons to be gleaned.
Great HB season (see last post) and i'm looking forward to starting that again. Got in 3 total Campus sessions. Evening prior to Y&Y i went out for a sprint workout, and for reasons that evade me, i nearly ruptured a calf muscle. Did Y&Y basically in Karate Kid mode, knowing i couldn't fall. Didn't have a bad showing, considering; but that was more or less season-ending.
Notably, did get down to about 196lbs then. That's the lowest i've been in a loooong time, but it's possible.
Did get in i think more Campus workouts after that, but they weren't good. One thing i certainly would note is that i've lost a lot of core strength. Hands are stronger than they've ever been, but on the Campus board i can't get the reaches i was getting last season. Need badly to start on the iron again.
And that really leads to the next thing needing a work-around. Got m' job back routesetting, and have a gym, but 1) it is horrible, and 2) i work in the opposite direction. Between having functionally no access to the gym, being to present unable to run or ride a bike, and the 20 degree days, i'm just rotting. There's a light at the end of the tunnel with a new job impending; but that's a ways off still. And scary in its own right.
I need a way to workout basically daily if possible. And i need a way to climb at home. I'ma try to install a landmine, which would make my rack way better and more versatile. I'm hoping to get a decent bench also. That'll be a start.
Doing Endurance work for climbing is trickier. I could design a Hangboard workout that is straight endurance. The trouble there is it will be hard to mock up my actual weight. I'm thinking I could create a an endurance "hangboard" out of a couple sheets of plywood, though, that would allow actual constant contact. And it would be easier to up-modulate the intensity. Kind of a vertical system wall. It would be boring, but significantly less lame than going to the weak-sauce, uninspired college wall here and finding it's once again randomly closed for no discernible reason.
My calf still tweaketh with stretching or loads even 6 weeks later. I damaged it propa'. But it is healing. It's just seriously taken the wind outta my sails. I've gotten just straight fat after doing nearly nothing for a month or so. Gotta gotta gotta get back in the ring. Got to.
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