...and more...

Had an hour 'twixt classes yesterday, so i went in for a second day in a row, making for a dense climbing week so far. Didn't tag my proj, but i did stick everything up to the final crux consistently: maybe 5 outta 6 times instead of the 1 outta 4 times as on tues. That was nice. Turns out the final move is just bloody hard, and a wee bit scary to boot. Starts from under an overhang-- hands on a big undercling flake, right foot on a bad jib, left foot smeared on the wall. Lunge up with the right to a full hand span pinch, then stab leftward with a foot to a horrible cabinet-knob sized sloper. Then you wrench your body in close to that pinch whilst dropping the left knee and tensioning between those feet so you can let go with the left hand and reach for a teensy side-pull crimp. Then you reach through and upward right for a terrible sloped pinch, establish feet under, then shoot way out again with the left foot to torque into another full knee drop so as to let go of the crimp to reach for manky pinch. If you get that, then somehow you uncoil from the dropknee without barndooring off, and dyno for the finish jug on the roof. Problem is you're crazy off-balance, contorted, and have a solid eight feet of air 'neath your shoes. i skate off of one or the other of the feet every time i get to that point trying to reverse the knee drop without losing contact.

It's a brilliant route. It's one of those routes that's obviously fun to watch someone do. Every time i've worked on it someone's appeared from out of nowhere to gimme a "C'mon! Get that!" Yesterday these two kids were watching when i dropped and one of 'em said, "Is that hard? That looks hard." It really isn't all that hard, of course (since it's within my feeble reach), but it looks cool. At any rate, i didn't tag it, but i think all i need is a clear, strong day.

Did get a hard 3 that i couldn't get a few weeks before, so that was a good sign.

Also got my new Cardiosport Graph X HR monitor in today, so now i have new motivation to take my puffy arse out running. Can't have my brother outrunning me.