Even More Entertaining...

With no power to stop it from happening, i was drawn back to the climbgym yesterday. i taped my ring finger, then i taped that to my pinkie, such that it was practically splinted. i warmed up thoroughly on ye olde hangboard on two-finger pockets. i did some routes. Finally jumped on a v3 i'd done at the comp (turns out much to my delight that i snagged a little handful of 3s in the comp), but i needed my crimper. i detaped, but it hurt a lot to put the crank down on the ring finger. So i figured out how to crimp with two fingers, and i sent. Then the guy i was working with and i went to the route i hurt myself on (as misery loveth company and i wanted him to hurt himself too.) He couldn't get it all linked up before he had to go, but we were fiddling with sequences and he says, "Hey, isn't that hold over there on? That's green tape." And i stare at this foothold in disbelief and loathing. i says that i bet that stupid foot would make the whole thing go static. So i jump on the damn thing, drop a knee on that hold, and reach up calm-like and snag the finish. If i'd just seen that stupid lump of plastic i wouldn't'a nearly popped a tendon.

Sigh

But i am thankful to God that the damage doesn't seem to be anywhere nearly as bad as i thought it was going to be. By the end of the work session i was working a new 3 and yarding on a three-finger closed crimp, and it wasn't bugging me much at all. i still have to baby it a li'l, but i really thought i wasn't gonna be able to even bend it for a month.

i did your green taped problem in the corner straight across from the boulder. (i think it was the first one you guys did.) It's a v1, but Don and i independently agreed that it was about as hard as v1 gets. It's a little thin and crimpy for v1. i was very impressed. That was a cool problem, and v1 doesn't usually have cool moves on. Then i went and looked at the results for the comp. i'm guessing you didn't turn yer paper in, G, but Bryant was on there and decisively clinched 27th place out of 27 males, with 25 points racked up. Heh heh... Yeah, there were some 7 y.o. girls that beat you, bra. ('Course, there were some 7 y.o. girls that beat me, but who's keeping score here anyway?)