Here's one of Tuolomne Meadow at sunset.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Miraculous similarity
Strangely, the cable for my phone to the pc also worked for the eight year old camera. i'll put up some pics o' the wall, then i'll do some of Yosemite. i'll also post up some pics when i've got more holds on.
Last minute add-on: went to the climbgym for a carbon-expunging session. Long warmup. Long stretch. was way tired, but ticked my "v5" campus problem for a warmup, then almost got the finish holds on a long v5 endurance. Just pumped off at the end. Then almost got a 5+. Did all the moves, but didn't have the juice to link it. Hurt my elbow again. got a comp on fri. so i'm mega-dosing on glucosamine. See if that speeds things up. been wanting to try upping my dosage to see what happens for a while anyway. vamos a ver.
Last minute add-on: went to the climbgym for a carbon-expunging session. Long warmup. Long stretch. was way tired, but ticked my "v5" campus problem for a warmup, then almost got the finish holds on a long v5 endurance. Just pumped off at the end. Then almost got a 5+. Did all the moves, but didn't have the juice to link it. Hurt my elbow again. got a comp on fri. so i'm mega-dosing on glucosamine. See if that speeds things up. been wanting to try upping my dosage to see what happens for a while anyway. vamos a ver.
Easy rider
Went with Annie to the climbgym yester's eve. It was the goal to have an easy, laid-back session, 'cuz there's a bouldering comp this fri. Mission accomplished.
Oo, and i got me li'l wall put up. She's sick, she is. Only i can't post pics cuz tha printer's jacked up. Gotta find a usb cable what'll fit the camera. i'll rummage. Peace.
Oo, and i got me li'l wall put up. She's sick, she is. Only i can't post pics cuz tha printer's jacked up. Gotta find a usb cable what'll fit the camera. i'll rummage. Peace.
Sunday, July 26, 2009
elderly me
Been a weird week. At some point in there i had a pretty nice climb workout, but i never made it into the iron gym. Yesterday i went hiking with friend near Truchas Peak. Got my butt kicked. i actually started feeling hypoxic at around 10,800ft. Haven't experienced that since--what?--elementary or so. At any rate, it was around 16+ miles and 8 or 9 hours of hiking. The first half was a relentless uphill bit. Beautiful hike. i am fat and outta shape though. Everything in my body is sore. All i could think about nearly all the way back to the car was beer and ibuprofen.
Climbing wall is still not erected. It's ready to go, but i wanted to put some of the heavier holds on today before i put it up, so's not to have to hold 'em up and try to pull the t-nuts home at the same time. But i cross threaded the bolt on the skull, and ended up having to Dremel the piece of crap t-nut off the bolt (which was stripped), and then it flash-flooded on me and that was all she wrote. i was cussing that nut with every curse i could evoke, and the bastard would come loose. i tightened it with a 2 or 3 inch long hex wrench. Tried backing it out the same way, and the t-nut spikes bent flat. Clamped a vice-grip on ('cuz that was all i could even hope to get a grip on it with) and applied a cheater bar to the hex wrench and it just ended up ripping the coke-can-tempered t-nut back to shreds. That was irritating. Hopefully tomorrow'll be a better day.
Got a bouldering comp coming up next fri. Gunna try to keep this week fairly light, and see how it comes out. probably climb tomorrow or tues. i also want to lift, but i'll probably tone that down a notch or two also. Plus, i can use a tendon-recoup week. i'm feeling very old/decrepit after yesterday.
Climbing wall is still not erected. It's ready to go, but i wanted to put some of the heavier holds on today before i put it up, so's not to have to hold 'em up and try to pull the t-nuts home at the same time. But i cross threaded the bolt on the skull, and ended up having to Dremel the piece of crap t-nut off the bolt (which was stripped), and then it flash-flooded on me and that was all she wrote. i was cussing that nut with every curse i could evoke, and the bastard would come loose. i tightened it with a 2 or 3 inch long hex wrench. Tried backing it out the same way, and the t-nut spikes bent flat. Clamped a vice-grip on ('cuz that was all i could even hope to get a grip on it with) and applied a cheater bar to the hex wrench and it just ended up ripping the coke-can-tempered t-nut back to shreds. That was irritating. Hopefully tomorrow'll be a better day.
Got a bouldering comp coming up next fri. Gunna try to keep this week fairly light, and see how it comes out. probably climb tomorrow or tues. i also want to lift, but i'll probably tone that down a notch or two also. Plus, i can use a tendon-recoup week. i'm feeling very old/decrepit after yesterday.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
The Saturday Afternoon Gun Show
Yesterday's climb session was an unexpected high point on the graph. i went to run some errands, and squeezed past an off-handed, "Hey you mind if i pop in for a quick workout, eh?" After working in the yard for a few days without showering, i smelled like a road-tripping Euro, so in spite of the throngs at the gym i had a conspicuous bubble of elbow room everywhere i went. No waiting in line. They'd put up a ton of new routes. A sparkling beam of light shone from Heaven upon me, and i sent nearly everything.
By the numbers, i pulled down 2 v5s (both of which went at v4), 3 v4s (two of which went at solid 3 and one at v2ish), and a couple of 3s (that may actually have been v3). Also almost ticked a pumpy roof problem that'll go at 3+/4 i think. It was strange cuz i just kept not being tired. By the time i left, i'd hooked up nearly 10 problems in the v3 range or harder. That'd be a new PR for me. Don't know if it was the three "rest days" of nearly no sleep, or if it was the Surge workout drink (although i'm getting a li'l superstitious about the stuff--i've brung the bizzle every time i haul that expensive stuff with me*) but i kept watching folks work problems and i'd think Man, that looks hard..i don't know if i've got that in me, and then i'd flash it. Just felt like a monster. If i could figure out what went right, i might just get really strong.
Hopefully i'll get my li'l campus wall uphauled today. i'll post up some pics if it happens.
*You gotta get you a bucket of the stuff and tell me if it works for you. They make miraculous claims about it, and i've had really good workouts on it, but your workouts are way more structured than mine. You could give me a more scientific take.
By the numbers, i pulled down 2 v5s (both of which went at v4), 3 v4s (two of which went at solid 3 and one at v2ish), and a couple of 3s (that may actually have been v3). Also almost ticked a pumpy roof problem that'll go at 3+/4 i think. It was strange cuz i just kept not being tired. By the time i left, i'd hooked up nearly 10 problems in the v3 range or harder. That'd be a new PR for me. Don't know if it was the three "rest days" of nearly no sleep, or if it was the Surge workout drink (although i'm getting a li'l superstitious about the stuff--i've brung the bizzle every time i haul that expensive stuff with me*) but i kept watching folks work problems and i'd think Man, that looks hard..i don't know if i've got that in me, and then i'd flash it. Just felt like a monster. If i could figure out what went right, i might just get really strong.
Hopefully i'll get my li'l campus wall uphauled today. i'll post up some pics if it happens.
*You gotta get you a bucket of the stuff and tell me if it works for you. They make miraculous claims about it, and i've had really good workouts on it, but your workouts are way more structured than mine. You could give me a more scientific take.
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
Sweatin' to the Oldies
In lieu of an early beer and some much-desired children-free work on the climbing wall, i made me go to the irongym. Figured i'd burn more calories that way. It was me and Richard Simmons. Where do these people come from?
P'lups:
20xbw
6x+45
3x+70
2x+80
1x+90
1x+100 (tried a second with this, but it didn't happen. Could'a used a spot on this'un.)
Straight Leg Deads:
14x145
8x195
8x215
6x235
6x255
4x275
Grip was decidedly waning at the end here. Over two weeks of immobilized toxification added nothing to the pleasurability.
Hanging Leg Raises:
30xshoes
3x10xweights
These didn't improve o'er the hiatus either.
OneArm Rows:
8x90
6x105
6x120
Here my elbow tried to collapse. This pretty much signaled the end of the workout.
Bent Over BB Rows:
10x135
1x175
Elbow lit up, and i stopped.
Ab Wheelies:
2x12
i actually collapsed and fell on my face on the last one. i tried not to cuss or cry. Fortunately no one saw me. i don't know what's wrong with my elbow. i tried some light cable pressouts to see if i could isolate the pain, but it didn't work. It's totally inconsistent, but it's crippling. Like sometimes i'll lean against a wall or press down on the car door for balance getting out, and nearly crumple. Very irritating.
Ayhow, it was otherwise a pretty nice workout.
P'lups:
20xbw
6x+45
3x+70
2x+80
1x+90
1x+100 (tried a second with this, but it didn't happen. Could'a used a spot on this'un.)
Straight Leg Deads:
14x145
8x195
8x215
6x235
6x255
4x275
Grip was decidedly waning at the end here. Over two weeks of immobilized toxification added nothing to the pleasurability.
Hanging Leg Raises:
30xshoes
3x10xweights
These didn't improve o'er the hiatus either.
OneArm Rows:
8x90
6x105
6x120
Here my elbow tried to collapse. This pretty much signaled the end of the workout.
Bent Over BB Rows:
10x135
1x175
Elbow lit up, and i stopped.
Ab Wheelies:
2x12
i actually collapsed and fell on my face on the last one. i tried not to cuss or cry. Fortunately no one saw me. i don't know what's wrong with my elbow. i tried some light cable pressouts to see if i could isolate the pain, but it didn't work. It's totally inconsistent, but it's crippling. Like sometimes i'll lean against a wall or press down on the car door for balance getting out, and nearly crumple. Very irritating.
Ayhow, it was otherwise a pretty nice workout.
Monday, July 13, 2009
Quasimodo climbeth
Steph had the day off today, so i took advantage of my last day for a while without kids and clumb. i was elated to know i can still climb v3. Cali had me worried--weird place. i went to a climbing gym on the coast, and there was this skinny ripped dude what obviously owned the place and routeset. All the grades seemed really stiff, but i couldn't tell if it was just sandbagging, or if i was poisoned. i got a pump on my warmup that i never really did shake off, and the hardest thing i finished was a 2+ that would'a' gone at probably hard 3 at our gym. Then we went to Yosemite, and i couldn't get solid v0 there. That blew, but that was definitely a combo of way hot temps on glassy granite, and sleep deprivation/bad juju. i had absolutely no pain tolerance and no bloodlust.
But i scored a couple o' gooduns today. Did a v3 that i know is solid 3, another 3 that would'a' gone at solid 2 in Cali, and almost tagged a v5 that probably isn't really. That first 3 was sweet though. All the holds were angled the wrong way, so i had to slither through some yoga-like knee drops to maintain tension, and then throw out of 'em for a juggy sloper. i hit that thing with the first pad of a few fingers, my feet cut loose, and i swung out knowing i was gonna pop; but i screamed like a woman in labor and didn't. When i got my feet back on and snagged the finish i was like, "What was that?" i guess a week of nearly no physical activity isn't so bad on the tendons afterall. i was very happy with what i was pulling on after the travesty out west, but i have a lard roll that wasn't present before (although i weighed in at 193 on the bathroom scales today) and my endurance went on a different vacation than i, from which it has yet to return.
Tomorrow i'm gunna try to get in to the irongym. See how that goes.
But i scored a couple o' gooduns today. Did a v3 that i know is solid 3, another 3 that would'a' gone at solid 2 in Cali, and almost tagged a v5 that probably isn't really. That first 3 was sweet though. All the holds were angled the wrong way, so i had to slither through some yoga-like knee drops to maintain tension, and then throw out of 'em for a juggy sloper. i hit that thing with the first pad of a few fingers, my feet cut loose, and i swung out knowing i was gonna pop; but i screamed like a woman in labor and didn't. When i got my feet back on and snagged the finish i was like, "What was that?" i guess a week of nearly no physical activity isn't so bad on the tendons afterall. i was very happy with what i was pulling on after the travesty out west, but i have a lard roll that wasn't present before (although i weighed in at 193 on the bathroom scales today) and my endurance went on a different vacation than i, from which it has yet to return.
Tomorrow i'm gunna try to get in to the irongym. See how that goes.
Sunday, July 12, 2009
Endlich wieder zu Hause
Well now. i got my ass handed to me at the big Y. But i learned some things:
1) Nearly uninterrupted drinking, dipping, over-consumption of animal fats, and sleep deprivation is a bad tapering program.
2) 2:00pm in the middle of July is the wrong time to consider bouldering on polished granite.
3) Gotta take a crash pad next time i go. This is important.
4) Gots ta get me a decent rack of trad gear.
5) and a belayer.
6) and a babysitter.
Dude...dude...i'm gunna post some pics. And i'm gunna make you watch my home video. Dude. If you climb, or even ever think about climbing, or just generally don't particularly like wherever you happen to be, Yosemite is nearly orgasmic. There is so much granite--SO MUCH GRANITE--i cannot even tell you... it is everywhere. Like zero star, one star problems there--crap that people don't bother doing unless they're bored-- would be classics here that people would drive an hour or two to try. Dudes, i do not care if it's 15 hrs. we gotta do a man trip there. And we gotta take Shawn. i mean, there's like 6,000,000 eight pitch 5.8s. You could go and just cruise the blues and greens for a week and stay 300 ft. off the deck. Ayee! Tomorrow i start training again. i must go back.
1) Nearly uninterrupted drinking, dipping, over-consumption of animal fats, and sleep deprivation is a bad tapering program.
2) 2:00pm in the middle of July is the wrong time to consider bouldering on polished granite.
3) Gotta take a crash pad next time i go. This is important.
4) Gots ta get me a decent rack of trad gear.
5) and a belayer.
6) and a babysitter.
Dude...dude...i'm gunna post some pics. And i'm gunna make you watch my home video. Dude. If you climb, or even ever think about climbing, or just generally don't particularly like wherever you happen to be, Yosemite is nearly orgasmic. There is so much granite--SO MUCH GRANITE--i cannot even tell you... it is everywhere. Like zero star, one star problems there--crap that people don't bother doing unless they're bored-- would be classics here that people would drive an hour or two to try. Dudes, i do not care if it's 15 hrs. we gotta do a man trip there. And we gotta take Shawn. i mean, there's like 6,000,000 eight pitch 5.8s. You could go and just cruise the blues and greens for a week and stay 300 ft. off the deck. Ayee! Tomorrow i start training again. i must go back.
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
WhooHoo!
By the grace of God we scored two nights of reservations at Tuolumne. yo soy muy happyo. Funny: it's inside the park, but it's still 55 miles and 2 hours driving to get to the valley floor. But that's cool-- it'll be a super pretty drive, and Tuolumne is world class climbing by itself. Yesterday i looked up reservations in the park and got a digital laughing-at. You can reserve 5 mos. ahead of time, and you pretty much have to reserve on the day they open registration to hope for something inside the park. They've got walk-in camping, but Tuolumne usually fills up by 8:30 am; camp 4's usually full by 9am. i was expecting to have to camp way outta the park and drive in. This is mucho mejor. Goin' climb me some knobs. i've dreamed about Tuolumne rock since i watched Ron Kauk floating it back in the '90s. Now if i can just find something easy enough to get my voluminous butt up.
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
motionless but tan
Not a very active trip so far. Lots of good food. i show up somewhere and someone forces wine/liquor/beer into my paw, and that's how it goes. i still want to climb somewhere up here. And i want to at least peer at Yosemite, even if it's so packed with tourists i can't park anywhere to climb up on a stone. It' s gunna be a hard place to do any climbing at with my present entourage: a belayer who gets irritated at the actual prospect of having to belay/stand in one place and watch me climb, and three children who spend each unsupervised moment attempting suicide. And i didn't bring a crashpad. i'm thinking maybe i can find bueno sport routage with tiny approaches at Tuolumne. vamos a ver.
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