Sunday, September 27, 2009

'Nuther un

Watched "I Love You, Man" last night. Yet another movie i'm embarrassed to admit i watched all the way through. Made me think what if that were really what life was all about? Very depressing thought. If you have the chance, i'd avoid that one.

Anyhow, i went to the climbgym again yesterday after lab-- mostly to piddle around. i was wanting to meet some friends there and do some routes, but they all dissed me. Ah well. Ended up bouldering (again), and i had low expectations. Did a kind of warmup on my home wall before i went to lab, so i felt pretty good really. Ended up finally sending one of my v5 projects. i kinda' doubt it's really a 5, or if it is, it just barely is; but it has a really thin, balancy, hard finish. i've tried the thing probably 30 times, and i'd race up to the end, grab the set-up for the finish (which is a match on this huge, slippery Fontainebleu sloper, with bad feet) and barn-door off-- over and over and over. i went in yesterday mostly with the thought of cleaning up a v4 that i'd left undone a few days prior. i'd done all the moves, and i thought it'd go pretty easy. Then i popped off the crux like a gaper four times in a row, and gave up. So i was milling around doing easy stuff, looking for some inspiration, and i thought i'd throw on this 5 again, just because even if you don't finish it, it looks hard. It's a good conversation starter.

It starts with a heel hook to a reachy match on a bad pinch under a roof; campuses footless on some crimps and slopers throught the opening to the cave 'til you've rotated 180deg.; then you swing up into a huge kneebar rest. Unwind outta the kneebar into a full-extension (for me) outside gaston on a crimp, then slap for the Font setup match. If your feet are perfect, and you still have the juice left you can toss sideways for the finish crimp. And somehow i got it. i'd snagged the finish before, but my feet had always been wrong and i couldn't match on it. This was a joyful moment.

i'm hopinig to get an iron workout in today. i want to change a few things up this time. i pulled an intercostal/rhomboid in my upper back, and yesterday i managed to damage an oblique in my abs, so we'll see how it goes.

Later:

i went in for the workout. Turned out to be a fantastically bad idea. Rip in my abs notwithstanding, for some reason i decided to try maxing on deadlift. i didn't have my Inzer belt with me, so i tried turning one of the gayguy tapered belts around backwards for a platform to valsalva against. i was planning on doing a pair at 405, but i nearly gave birth to my jejunum by C-section. So i quit and left. A beer and a handful of vitamin I later, i'm seriously hoping i didn't actually herniate my abdominal wall. Ah well: it only hurts when i breathe or sneeze, which means i feel pretty ok around 50% of the time. Peace.

7 comments:

Pappa G said...

jackass. heehhehhee

c said...

Yeah, so i just had some time, and thought i'd pop in to the climbgym just to kinda stroll easy turf-- sorta like mall walking with yer hands eh. So i got frisky and hopped on a v1. Lock-off to a reach later i feel this nauseating tearing sensation. methinks i'm outta commission for a week or two. Ah well, my hands and biceps have been screaming for some tendon healing time anyway. Now i have a proper excuse.

Pappa G said...

That's gross man. You don't want your nads slipping up in your abdomen everytime you gank on something. Tearing sounds = bad mojo.

R6Medic said...

dude... your words make me laugh. I think you might have a career as a writer... side job of course.
;)

c said...

Yeah, my ultra-witty flow just never comes when i'm talking with folk. But i am just a gem when i write.

i feel like doing the Hammer Dance now.

Pappa G said...

Yo, Hammer! Go Hammer!

c said...

I've been around the world
from London to the bay
It's "Hammer, yo Hammer"
It's "Hammer, go Hammer"
and tha rest can go and play