Campus #2

Gotta catch up again. Tues--would'a' been 1/27-- did a really nice limit boulder sesh. Don't remember exactly what i did, but i'm certain it was limit-y. Took Wed off, then campused after, really, too hard a warmup. Rather, as it turned out, it was not too hard a warmup. Worked out to be a pretty fantastic session of campusing after some pretty hard bouldering.

Weighed in at 198.8 fully clothed. Basic ladder on the XXLs each hand for a warmup. Then to max ladders.

1) XL to L3-R4-match
2) XL to R3-L4-match
3) XL to L3-R5-match :)
4) XL to R3-L5-fail
5) XL to R3-L5-match :)
6) L to L3-R4 match
7) L to R3-L4 match: easy
8) L to L3-R5 match :)
9) L to R3-L5 match: Not bad!
10) M to L3-R4-touch fail
11) M to R3-L4- fail
12) M to L3-R4-match :)
13) M to R3-L4- snag fail
14) M to R3-L4- Match! Woot!

So this was a definite step forward. Just last session i really couldn't hang from the medium rungs. This time i got a max ladder on 'em (albeit a little ladder). This gives me hope.

Also got in the shiny, new egrips holds for some limit bouldering. Looking mighty forward to stressing those tomorrow.

Stutter start on Campus #1

So today's was actually a pretty good workout, but a little outta sync with the plan. Went to the gym for a warmup for campusing on Thursday, and got roped into projecting some hardness. Was a good workout, and i'm a call it a limit boulder session--cuz it was-- but there was no campusing afterwards. So today, 3 days later, i campused. And it went much better than i anticipated.

I put up the Metolius rungs which are large, medium, and small. So i'll rename the stuff i already had up XL and XXL respectively. The large Metolius is 1 1/4" deep. My XL is a routed down 2x4, so it's 1 1/2" deep. The XXL is 3" deep.

Warmed up with basic ladders on the XXL, leading with each hand. Easy.

Did a basic ladder on the XL. Definitely having to get back into this.

Then to max ladders:

1:  XL:  to R3-L4-match
2:  XL:  to L3-R4-match
3:  L:  to R3-L4 fail
4:  L:  to L3-R4 fail :-/
5:  L:  to R3-L4 match :)
6:  L:  to L3-R4 match :)
7:  L:  to R3-L5 touch fail
8:  L:  to L3-R5 snag fail
9:  L:  to R3-L5 match!
10:  L:  to L3-R5 match! :)
11:  M:  to R3-L? total fail
12:  M:  to L3-R4 touch fail
13:  M:  to R3-L4 snag fail
14:  M:  to L3-R4 snag fail
15:  L:  to R3-L4 match
16:  L:  to L3-R4 match

Lesson (re)learned: campusing is a head trip. But this was a good start. Definitely a leap and a bound up from where i started last season. It's funny, 'cuz at the beginning today i really wasn't sure i could move on the large holds; after a single fail on each hand leading, i maxed my rungs out. (Gunna need more rungs in the near future, btw.) Similar on the medium rungs. Really never matched on a max ladder on the mediums, but i expect they'll feel fairly doable next session. We'll see.

But this was a shot in the arm. I tried to campus after Thursday's workout, and it was a complete waste of time, so i really didn't know what to expect today. I was very pleasantly surprised.

Hangboard #9

Last hangboard workout for this season. Kind of a wistful, poignant feeling it evokes here: i've really come to dig-- yea, even look forward to these workouts. They work like crazy!

But if it's time to move on, this was a flippin' awesome workout to end on. Weighed in fully dressed at 200.0 tonight.

Warmup Jug:  -15. Same.

Large Open Hand:
1:  BW:  This was a >5# increase. Hard at the end.
2:  +10:  Five lbs up again. No fail. Not bad.

F3,4 Pocket:
1:  -20:  Another 5# increase. Bit hard. No fail.
2:  -10:  Five lbs up. No fail! Hard. :)

[Untaped F4 here]

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -5:  Better. Failed in the last 2 secs of the last rep.
2:  +5:  Better again. Made it through rep 4. Progressive failure last 2 reps.

F2,3,4:
1:  BW:  Hard, but no fail. :)
2:  +10:  Failed at the final beep. Way better!

[Untaped F5 here]

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  No fail! :))
2:  -45:  Made it through rep 4. Failed on reps 5 & 6. Mo' betta!

Sloper:
1:  -2.5:  Failed on the last rep. Better.
2:  +10:  Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Much better. :)

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  No fail! Woot!
2:  -72.5:  Hardhardhard; but no fail, sucka!  :))

So i didn't increase weights really on the last 6 grips. But i definitely improved on pretty much everything. That's way encouraging. I do think the cold night helped a bit, but i also just felt more motivated and better than last time.

So far a good season. The campus rungs're installed and ready to go, and a happy package from E-Grips should be en route soon for Power Time. Reeeeealy psyched about this next bit.

Hangboard #8

Somehow i miscalculated here, and i ended up putting this at the 4 day mark, 'stead o' the 3. I guess that's fine, 'cuz i really couldn't have done it last night anyhow. Thought i was gunna snowboard today, but that fell through; so i got in a fairly decent workout of it. And to be fair, i did climb reasonably hard on Tuesday, so it really didn't amount to three off days. Today's was a weird one.

Warmup Jug:  -15. Warmed.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -5:  5# increase here. Still easy.
2:  +5:  Took the pin off last time, so this was more than a 5# increase. Hard at the end, but no fail.

F3,4:
1:  -25:  5# increase here. Not bad.
2:  -15:  5# increase. Hard. No fail. :)

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -5:  Hard. Failed the last half of the last rep.
2:  +5:  Progressive fails on last 3 reps. But good times up 'til then.

F2,3,4:
1:  BW:  Huh. So this was a more than 5# increase. Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2:  +10:  Again, 5# increase. Dura dura. Failed last 2 reps (which ain't bad). :))

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2:  -45:  Progressive fail last 3 reps.

Sloper:
1:  -2.5:  Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2:  +7.5 with PIN:  Progressive fail last 3 reps. :-/

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  No fail! I'll take that as an increase. :)
2:  -72.5:  Failed end of last 2 reps. Sounds the same as last workout. I'll take it.

Overall an excellent workout. Added resistance to 4 of 8 grips and actually finished stronger on the Narrow Pinch. It kinda got messy toward the end, but i really think that's cuz i didn't sandbag at the beginning. Forearms are torched. And i see it translating to my climbing is the cool bit. I'm starting to see the shining path to the bigger numbers. There're still holds i can't fully pull on, but they're getting absurdly small; and i can pull on stuff i couldn't think of seriously before. That's encouraging. My endurance is grey, and my weight is ... ridiculous; but the strength gains are very encouraging.

One more session to go, then power.

Hangboard #7:

Got in Numma 7 last night (1/12/15) and it went much better. Weighed in at 201.8 fully clothed, and that certainly gave me an edge over the prior sesh, but it was also a bit cooler (although i still ended up taking off the beanie and vest). But most of all i think i was gifted with a bit more focus and pain tolerance.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Actually managed to use the Jug this time.

Large Open:
1:  -10:  Just fine.
2:  -Pin:  Fairly easy, so an improvement if not an increase. Go up next time.

F3,4;
1:  -30:  Five lb increase here. Not bad.
2:  -20:  Still 5# up, and not bad. Increase. :)

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -10:  Hard, but no fail. Untaping helped.
2:  -Pin:  2.5# increase from last time. Failed at the last beep. Way betta!

F2,3,4:
1:  -5:  Another 5# increase. No fail.
2:  +5:  Didn't use the pin here, but still a 5# increase. Not bad--could increase again.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Failed at the end of the last rep. Better.
2:  -45:  Failed progressively earlier in last 3 reps, with the last rep pretty much a flailing wash. Still a betterment from last go.

Sloper:
1:  -2.5:  A 2.5# increase. Failed somewhere in the last 3 secs.
2:  +7.5 and Pin:  Still 2.5# up from last round. Failed at the very end of last two reps. Better.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  Failed at the beep.
2:  -72.5:  Greased off the last sec of last two reps. That was a pleasant improvement over last time.

Kept several resistances the same yesterday, but overall really felt better and worked harder. Laid down a pretty acceptable round there.

Today i climbed a bit. Mostly bouldered. Really turned out well for having a hangboard sesh the day before. No complaints all around.

Struckout looking: Hangboard #6

Didn't show up for the fight today. Weighed in at a bit over 204# today, so up a pretty solid 5# from last session (4 days ago), and well into Clydesdale status. Had a late and large breakfast and really felt like an enormous slug. Basically didn't make any meaningful improvements today, iron-wise; but i'm gunna take the silver lining: i'm up five lbs-- depressing by itself, but a pretty nice bump in weight resistance-wise.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  This kinda shewed where my brain wasn't-- i accidentally did this on the Large Open Hand ledge. Oops. Finished it at any rate, but a poor way to start things off.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -10:  Harder than last time
2:  -Pin: Way harder, but no fail.

F3,4:
1:  -35:  Hard. Feelin' pretty portly today.
2:  -25:  Hardish. Could go up here. Ok...

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -10:  Very hard. Failed last second of last rep. Right 2nd finger skin was failing. Afraid i was gunna peel a giant flapper here. Need tape. And this was still a 5# increase from last time.
2:  -2.5:  Taped R 2nd DIP for this and it helped a bit, pain-wise; but not with friction. Massive fail after rep 3.

F2,3,4:
1:  -10:  Hard but no fail.
2:  BW:  Failed in the last second last rep. Better! :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2:  -45:  Better without the F2 taping. Failed on the last 3 reps.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Failed on the last rep.
2:  +5 with pin:  Hard, but failed last sec of last rep.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  Failed last 2 reps.
2:  -72.5:  Failed last 2 reps-- total fail on the last rep.

Several pearls to be gleaned from this workout.  Several mistakes. One, just came to it without focus. No pain tolerance and no fight. I think this was partly from being a li'l sleep deprived and partly from going in full and fat.

Two, i should definitely have not climbed on Mon and Tues. For some reason i thought i could get by with some "light" projecting at the gym, and that was a sad (and exhausting) mistake. Didn't stick to the plan.

Three (and this hails back to the last item) my skin was mulched, and when it comes down to taping and wrecking my friction and possibly opening a flapper and screwing up the rest of my workouts, i'll take a bad workout. But i don't think that'd have been necessary if i hadn't snuck some climbing seshes in there.

Four, interestingly it didn't take much of a rise in temps to really affect my sticking power. The temp rose noticeably during the workout, and it showed.

Lastly (and firstly, really), i'm fat. A fiveish pound gain in lard made a very large difference. This reiterates for me what i might be able to hang from if i could shed 20 or so lbs. Gunna hafta dig for some consistent discipline. And i may hafta start running again.

Hangboard #5

Another hangboardy day. Nuthin' but a pretty nice paycheck in the meantime. But this hangboarding thing is working. Do wish i could get more other-muscle workouts in, but there hain't been time. At any rate, the hangboarding's been good so far, and today's workout was another resounding uptick. Of note, it was quite a bit warmer today than last time, and that helped. Colder might be better for sticking holds than warmer, but not so much when you can't feel the holds.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Actually shifted grips through this, cuz i didn't really do much of a warmup prior. Worked out just fine.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -10:  This was a 2.5# bump. Li'l hard.
2:  -pin:  Hmm. Again, li'l hard, but not too. Increase. :)

F3,4:
1:  -35:  5# increase. Hard at the end. No fail.
2:  -25:  5# up here too. No fail. :)

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -15:  2.5# up here. No fail.
2:  -5:  Again, up 2.5#. Hard on the last rep, but no fail. :)

F2,3,4:
1:  -10:  2.5# increase. OK.
2:  -pin:  Really not bad. Could increase.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Ok...No fail.
2:  -45:  Better--much better-- than last time. Failed in the last second of the last 2 reps.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  No fail, but fairly hard.
2:  +5:  This was adding the pin with 5# to my harness, so it was more than a 10# jump. Gotta weigh that pin one o' these times. Anyhow: Very hard, and failed at the end of the last two reps. Good stuff.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  Didn't fail, but barely. Burn.
2:  -72.5:  Way better! Failed in the last 3 secs of last rep, but not before. Might increase this one.

So once again, great workout. Increased weight on 5 grips, and increased performance on 6 of 8. Not too bad. Over halfway through this piece of the season now. Looking forward to take this to the rocks. :)

Hangboard #4

Once again i'm a day late; only this time i had a better excuse. I got the matriarchal blessing to climb at the gym on Tues (2 days ago), and i took it. So last night i was a little baked--and i got off work 3.5 hours after i was scheduled to get off, and just honestly didn't feel like hangboarding in the dark in 6 degrees. But really very good, and very encouraging sessions both climbing and hangboarding today; so i feel ok about bumping it back yet another day.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Same same.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -12.5:  This was a 2.5# increase. Burned at the end.
2:  -2.5:  Again, up 2.5#. Hard, but no fail.

F3,4 Pocket:
1:  -40:  This was a 5# bump. Very hard at the end. no fail.
2:  -30: Again, 5# bump. Very hard, but dug deep and no fail.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -17.5:  This was a 2.5# increase. Very hard. No fail.
2:  -7.5:  Pretty hard, but no fail. Up 2.5#. :)

F2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -12.5:  Hard at the end. Kept these the same.
2:  -2.5:  Incredibly, no fail. Very mental. :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  No fail(ish), which is an improvement. I mighta been dripping off the hold as my timer chimed on the last rep.
2: -45:  Bleh! Failed really on the last 4 reps at least partially. Felt like i couldn't get set properly on the holds. Really didn't feel weak; just felt so cold my fingertips were glassy and i couldn't feel.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Very hard. Failed last second of last rep.
2:  BW:  :) Not quite sure what made me think i could do this after the set before, but i didn't fail. Guess i should find out what my pin weighs, cuz that's the increase. Hard. Heh heh!

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  2.5# up! Whew! No fail :)
2:  -72.5:  Ha!! Massive fail, but last rep only. That's an increase. :))

That's an improvement, or frank weight increase on 6 of 8 grips. That's very satisfying. Very good workout. I'm getting a li'l amped to see if i can make some real climbing gains this season. Was 200.0 lbs fully clothed this morning (without a harness)-- so up a pound from last sesh, and still got some gains. That's real nice.