End of Power: Campus #5 and Limit Bouldering

On the 10th (3 days ago) i endeavored to campus for a last time this season. Went to the gym for a "warmup" that was just way too hard, and the campus session was so stale and ....just horrid, i didn't even bother recording any of it. Actually went backwards from the prior workout. So i did some campusing, and my fingers took something of a campusingesque pummeling, but it was no breed of morale booster.

Today CK came by for some limit bouldering, and it very much was a morale bump. Could definitely tell it's getting time to quit on the power work-- piggies are getting frayed and creaky and thin, like an ancient rope bridge o'er an impossible chasm. But we threw down some hard stuff. Very good to have a bro there to push me, and a very good workout to go out on.

Really looking forward to playing with that wall more.

Limit Boulder #4ish

This was LB numma 3 or 4 depending on how i reckon things. But the Moon wall is looking pretty good, and i am finally getting the hang of how this is s'posed to work. Managed to get the large majority of the problems i set--still a few up in the air. No great way to quantify these problems yet; but they feel way hard. In fact, it seems tricky to make a problem that isn't way hard on a 40 degree overhang. But i can't say anything has been grade-changing for me. Very different, yes. The holds i bought tend to be a lot crimpier and smaller than most of the stuff at the gym. And i can't really imagine continuing on with the problems further. So i guess it feels like i'm climbing the beginning few moves of what would be a very hard problem.

Also i had a sort of epiphany whilst warming up for it today. I was playing on the hangboard, and ended up doing some hand-switching on some big slopers, and it occurred how similar the position was to the pumpy cruxes of Three Roofs. This could be the plan for Power Endurance. I could finish out strong as possible on Power, maybe even diet and shed a few lbs over the next coupla weeks, then spend every other day hanging from those slopers until i can take tea and crumpets while reperfusing the guns. That just might get it.

And i'm also considering a really contracted season to start over with strength and power training before i'm too far out from this bout. I feel like i could take my climbing-- especially the bouldering-- to the next level if i could just grab some really really tiny flecks of stone and move off of 'em.

Campus #4

This really went well. Went to the gym and bouldered for a warmup--and honestly, that went pretty well too. But i'm digging this campusing deal, and it pains me that it's almost over with for the season. Only one more session to go for the season, so one more chance to bag 1-4-6.

Did this one yesterday (2/6/15), and weighed in at 200.6 fully clothed; so a pound lighter than 3 days prior.

As above, i bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Came home, ate dinner, then XXL for a coupla basic ladders.The usual pullups, rows and dips followed. (Interestingly, i'm kinda starting to like dips on the rings).

XL:
1) to L4-R5-Match
2) to R4-L5-match:  Same as last time. But it looks like i tried a 1-4-6 on the XLs last time, and this time i decided to go straight to some smaller rungs.
L:
3) to L3-R5-match
4) to R3-L5-match
5) to L4-R5-match
6) to R4-L5-match Then to the b'i'ness
7) to L4-R6 Fail
8) to R4-L6- Touch fail >:)  This gave me hope
9) to L4-R6- touch fail  :/ Urgh
10) to R4-L6 touch fail
11) to L4-R6 ditto
12) to R4-L6 ditto.... Soooooo CLOSE! Annie and Aeon were out here for this bit. Good fun to have them playing too. I 'spect they'll be stronger than i soon. And that'll be mighty cool.
M: (untaped F4 here)
13) L3-R4-fail
14) R3-L4 match
15) L3-R4 match!
16) R3-L4-match
17) L3-R4-match
18) R3-L4-match.  :>

Excellent go of it. I really think 1-4-6 will go next time. And that'll be swell. Excepting i've got a 7th rung up on the board.....

Campus #3

This woulda been Tues, 2 days ago on 2/3/15. Interesting session, cuz for the days prior, and including the "warmup" i basically climbed my booty off. So while i didn't exactly feel as springy as i'd have liked for this un, it was a pretty decent upstep notwithstanding. Weighed in at 201.6 just before.

XXL basic ladder for a warmup (after a pretty hard session at the gym).

Then to max ladders:
XL:
1) to R4-L5-match
2) to L4-R5-match :  I might have recorded this wrong, but at any rate it went better than the previous session. Good first set.
3) to R4-L6-fail
4) to L4-R6-fail :  The long reaches is where the "warmup" ended up killing me.
L:
5) to R3-L5-match :)
6) to L3-R5-match :))
7) to R4-L5-match :)))
8) to L4-R5-match :))))  Didn't even try that last session. Hard.
M:
9) to R3-L4- fail
10) to L3-R4- fail : Untaped F4s after this.
11) to R3-L4-match
12) to L3-R4-match :)
13) to R3-tried to go to L5, but massive fail
14) to L3- same... massive fail.

Then i hung from the Smalls for a while. Too cooked to move off of 'em, but it was nice to be able to hang.

No huge gains here, but it felt big after the bouldering sessions at the gym prior. Have taken yesterday and today off completely so's to be hopefully a bit fresher for tomorrow's campus sesh #4. Vamos a ver.

Limit Boulder number threeish

First session on the Moon Wall with the new holds. Really went mighty fine. I've ended up basically putting up a semi-symmetrical system wall. Not entirely sure how "limit bouldering" is supposed to go, but it makes sense to me to fairly closely train with one hand what i'm training with the other.

I definitely need a bigger LZ. Not really using the top o' the wall, cuz i really don't wanna crash from there. But this was pretty cool: it's shown me that i need a lot of work on hard crimps (as though i didn't already know that), but it didn't go nearly as badly as i'd expected.

Need more bolts--really wish i'd have ordered more. And i need more campus rungs, which is a terribly, awfully cool thing to be able to say.