Monday, October 26, 2015

Limit Boulder #3 and Campus #4

Friday i went in to route set, and eked a pretty good limit boulder sesh out of the deal. Powerful workout, really.

Last night i did Campus 4. Very good session, all said and done.

L)
Basic Ladder:
Got it both.

1,4,5:
L:  Got it.
R:  Got it.

1,4,6:
L:  Nope. Million miles away.
R:  Got it!
L:  Yessiree Bob!

M)
1,4,5:
L:  Yeah! Got it first go.
R:  Nope. Twisted wrong.
R:  No. Urgh!

S)
1,2,3:
L:  with a dab
R: got one! That's exciting! There's hope.

M)
1,4,5:
R: Missed. :(

Bumps 1, 2-3-4:
L: Missed 4
R: Got it!
L: got it.

1, 3-4-5:
L: Missed the 5
R: Ditto
L: Tired. Same.
R: Barely missed.

L)
Matching Ladder 1,4,7:
L: got it!
R: Got it!

M)
Basic Ladder 1-6:
R: Got it!
L: Got it!

This was a good one. Very mental, campusing. But i'm making gains, even if slowly. And i think i got several more sets in, which is very encouraging. It's becoming more of a game or a workout than just injury avoidance, and it's translating to the climbing really well. I'm yarding my flabby butt up pretty calmly on stuff that would have destroyed my tendons not too long ago. That's happy sauce.

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Limit Boulder #2, Yank n Yard, and Campus #3

Last wednesday (10/14) did a Limit Boulder sesh, although i kept it really light in front of the comp. 'Fact, i kept it light enough that i don't remember what i did. Guess it was mostly a piddly bouldering sesh. Anyway, good times.

Skipped Friday's Campus session 'cuz of YnY looming. That was a bit inspiring, as always. Got 6th in age group, and missed at least a place by a single finish hold. Ah well: Still a ton of fun, and Annie kicked some butt and took some names. I was so surprised by what she can climb with no training whatsoever-- man. Weird comp though. Every route i got, i flashed. There were so many people that there was no way to work a route. It'd be 15 mins between burns. Very odd. But still fun.

Tonight i did Campus #3. Started out kinda sketchy: getting chilly (which i've been looking forward to for some time) and i'm way sleep-deprived so it took a minute to get warmed up and serious. Did fire up the heater, and made some gains.  :)

L)
Basic Ladder:  good both.

1,4,5:
L: yup
R: yup

1,4,6:
L: Missed.
R: Missed
L: Missed. Very discouraging.
R: Got it! Very not discouraging.
L: Yeah. got it!

M)
1,4,5
L: Yeah! First try
R: Missed. Waited too long.
R: Got it! Better.

S)
1,3
L: Missed
R: Nope
L: Nope, but i jumped and stuck it. Couldn't match.
R: Ditto.

M)
Bump 1, 2-3-4
L: Missed 4
R: same

1, 3-4-5
L: Missed the 5
R: Same. Touched it but no stick.
L: Ugh.
R: Veeeery close.

L)
Matching Ladder
1, 4, 7
got it with both hands.

Very good workout. Feel during the workout that i'm not making the progress i want to see, but i'm making definite progress.

Sunday, October 11, 2015

Limit Boulder #1 and Campus #2

Bouldered a bit on friday (10/9) and did work a limit problem for a while. Really not much in the way of warmup problems set up there, so i ARCd for a few minutes and then got to it. Really didn't go too hard, but it was a fine workout anyhow. Need to set more limity problems. Did just order a bunch more holds for the college, so i should have some material with which to set shortly.

Did campus #2 today, and that went just superdeeduper well. Weighed in at 198 clothed. Bonus.

Usual warmup. Skipped the XL rungs today, and went for some Basic ladders on the L rungs.

L)

1,4,5:
L:  check
R:  check

1,4,6:
L:  Got it first try!! Never got this leading L last time.
R:  Same--first go. :)

M)

1,4,5:
L:  Missed the match.
R:  Sorta got it after a fail.
L:  GOT IT!
R:  Missed.
L:  Missed.
R:  Got it :)

S)

1-2:
L:  with a dab
R:  ditto.
Did 3 or 4 sets of that. Did feel a little better on these this time.

Went back to L for some bumps.

L)

1,4, bump 5:
L:  Meh.
R:  Yeah. hard. Failed on 5.

1,3, bump 4, bump 5:
L:  Missed 5 again.
R:  Ditto.
Repeated this twice more. Did finally snag it leading R.

Yeah. So some improvements just since the first go 'round. Diet's going ok for now too. Got Yank 'n' Yard coming up net weekend. We'll see how this translates. Li'l bit psyched.

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Season 4 Campus #1

Did Campus #1 yesterday (10/6). Not a bad workout, really. Think i've lost a little contact strength, but it's hard to say whether it's strength or coordination. not far at all from where i left off, at any rate. Could see some gains this go-round. Weighed in at 200lb for it.

Warmed up with pushups, pullups, ring dips, rows, SLRs and toe touches. Got on the hangboard to wake the nubbins up. XL rungs for a basic ladder up and down. Then to the L.

L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check

1,4,6:
L: fail
R: Got it!
L: fail x 2. Couldn't seem to twist correctly for this. Dropped back to 1,4,5 and got it.

M)
1,4:
L: fail
R: fail
L: stuck 4, but no match.
R: Ditto

1,3,5:
L: got it!
R: ditto. Much better.\

Went back to 1,4 for 2 more sets each hand. Couldn't manage to match either hand, but very close.

Then back to 1,3,5 and matched B, no problem.

S)
1,2: Matched both hands with a dab. Two sets of that.

Yeah: not far off of where i stopped last season. After this i went and worked a boulder problem for a while at the gym. Got a limit boulder sesh coming up shortly, so we'll see if yesterday's work proves detrimental.

Thursday, October 1, 2015

Hangboard #9 (last one for season 4)

Definitely feeling tired today. Really could'a' used another day of rest. But G&M are coming, so i figured it was either now or not at all. Really do seem to heal better and get better workouts in if i take 3 full days off instead of 2 about every other rest period. Might intentionally plan that next season.

Since this is the last hangboard sesh, i think i'll take the space and detail everything. Weighed in at 200.0lbs tonight pre-workout. Seems to work best to tape only f 3&4 on the present grips. Also went back and looked at HB#9 from last season. That, at least, is encouraging.

WUJ:  -15. Just fine.

Large Open:
1:  +35 (+5):  Hard. No fail.
2:  +45 (same):  Failed last rep. Bleh. This is a change from +17.5 & +27.5 respectively last season. Using the inner dimple at f2.

F 3,4:
1:  -35 (same):  Fail last two. Seemed the taped was slipping, so i detaped after this.
2:  -25 (same):  Failed last 3. Just plain tired. Can't compare this one 'cuz i'm using the shallowest pocket on the board.

SemiClosed:
1:  -15 (same):  OK. Hard.
2:  +10 (+5):  Got two clean. Prolly a li'l ambitious. Mighty hard. Up from -20 and -10 last season. happy gain. Using the outside dimple at f3.

F 2,3,4:
1:  BW (+>5):  No fail. :))
2:  +10 (same):  Failed last second last rep. Can't compare last season cuz i'm using the shallow scalloped pocket.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -35 (same):  Better. Fail last 1.5ish.
2:  -25 (same):  Don't quite know...failed last 3-4ish. Compare to -45 & -35 respectively last season.

Slopa':
1:  +25 (same):  Good grief! failed last 3.
2:  +45 (+5):  'Cuz why not go big? Very happy. Failed last 1.5.  Compare to BW and +10 last season. That is a 35lb bump. :)

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -55 (same):  OK. failed last 2.
2:  -45 (same):  Big fail last two or three. Still, compare to -70 and -60 last season. Good stuff.

Funny, 'cuz i felt like i didn't make as steep gains as i imagined i might; but there were some huge gains compared to the same point last season, and on nearly every grip. Nothing to be too downcast about here. Just gotta figure out how to lose some weight now. Yank n Yard's coming up in a few weeks.