Got in HB #3 for (what're we on here?...) season 9 yesterday--so 9/23/18. This was the second with the intermediate routine again, and the first that felt like an actual workout this season. Did wait 'til after 20:00 to do it so sun was down, and it was a li'l cooler. That helped a lot i think.
More importantly, A&A finally got in their 1st HB sesh. I'm pretty excited for that 'cuz those two could be monsters if they put the work in and get strong. They actually surprised me with the workouts they cranked out, and neither of 'em had to monkey with their starting weights much. I think they're both gunna be pleasantly surprised with how the climbing feels when they've added on a season or two of proper strength work. I think they're going to see some steep gains, and they've both started out pulling harder than i thought they would. Super amped that they got out to the cave. I just wish we had a less dusty place to work out. Ah well: builds character i guess.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Better. Trouble to tell if the taped [F2 especially] helps or hurts.
2: +25: This was a decrease from last workout, and was better. Failed veeeery end of last rep. Felt like tape was slipping.
F 3/4:
1: -45: Ok, better. No fail.
2: -35: Whew! Got 4 very clean! Failed at the end of the last 2, which was better.
SemiClosed:
1: -30: No fail. That got real at the end of the last rep.
2: -20: 5lb decr from last time. Much better. Failed end of the last 2 reps. Untaped completely prior to this, and i think that helped.
F 2/3/4:
1: -20: Yeah! No fail! Much better without the tape. That seriously messed me up last go.
2: -10: This was a 10lb incr. Way betta! Last 2-3 seconds last rep.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Toe touched down maybe 2 secs from the end.
2: -35: Better. End of 5th and then total meltdown on the 6th rep.
Slopa':
1: +15: Bleh. Again, got 4 with ensuing meltdown.
2: +20: Dropped this one by 5lb after the last workout's misery. Got 4 pretty solid, and some of the 5th. Toe didn't break with the Earth on #6.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: No fail. Not bad.
2: -60: 5lb incr (for once). Not too bad! Last couple o' secs last 2. Huh.
Pretty good workout over all.
Today i got in a mt. bike (Kinsey to 7 sisters) at 1:28:07, which was another 2 mins off my best for the season. That's still almost 6 mins off what i'm finding as my PR for that route [at 1:22:24 on 7/14/17]. Still, that's over 14 mins shaved off that route since i got back and started firing at it--on Sept 7. Not terrible progress in a smidge over 2 weeks.
Then i changed shoes and got in a 15min run.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Thursday, September 20, 2018
Neuromuscular Reeducation: Hangboarding, Season 9
Got in HB #1 and 2 so far for season 9. On 9/17 (would'a' been Mon) i did the first session. Was basically having a very bitter irritating day all round. Got to the boards and discovered my timer (the intermediate HB) had been erased off my phone for whatever reason. Rather than spend the time rebuilding that from scratch, i went with the Heavy HB workout, which i used for the last half of the HB sessions last season. Although it is a very fine workout, it is not a good place to start, and i got m' butt handed to me. No injuries (for which i thank God), but it was an exercise in humility and focusing on not rupturing anything. Also frustrating because it'd once again been so long between seasons. I can't seem to just call it quits and start over even though i know i'd be way stronger and maybe actually see improvement if i would. so in addition to being weaker on the boards than i should be, i also have to retool where to tape up/untape, and which holds i'm using for what grip. So:
HB #1 9.17.18 (Heavy--again, each grip is 3 sets in a 7/5/3 rep pyramid on a 7:3sec work:rest interval)
WUJ: -15:
Large Open:
1: +10: Maybe
2: +30: Painful. Needed to tape f2--skin was delaminating.
3: +50: Horrible. Got 1 1/2ish.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: Whew...easy at first, then fail @ end of last two. (For reminder, these are done on the tiny depression on the Trango board)
2: -55: Got 3 clean. Big fail on the last 2.
3: -40: Fail last 2sec 2nd rep. Hot out here!
F 2,3,4 Shallow Pocket:
1: -15: Fail last 1/2 rep. Whew!
2: +5: Big fail last 2.
3: + 25: Ugh. Last 2 secs last rep. Better i guess.
Slopa':
1: +20: Wow. Horrid. Fail last 3-4 reps.
2: +40: got about 3 solid. Really hot.
3: +60: Massive fail last one.
F 3,4,5 (shallow scalloped pocket):
1: -40: Last 2-3.
2: -20: Big fail last two.
3: -5: Bleh! Think i got my feet off the ground for a sec.
SemiClosed Crimp (F3 to the outside dimple on the small rail):
1: -50: end of last 3.
2: -40: Really at the end of the last 1-2 r.
3: -25: No fail, but ugh.
Following this workout my hands felt like meatloaf, and i rebuilt a timer for the intermediate HB. Under the circumstances, i can't feel too bad about how that workout went. Definitely found the utility in rebuilding my base first.
HB #2 9.20.18 (Intermediate)
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Hard though.
2: +25: bleh! Really a fail on the last 3. Shoulders were creaking, oddly.
F 3,4 (again, used the shallow pocket):
1: -45: Whew! No fail, but hard!
2: -35: Sorta a voluntary fail on the last 3--toes on the ground, as it were. Seriously tweaky, and i didn't see a reason to get injured this early.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: Fairly easy. This is a big jump in weight from Monday's sesh, but it also comes a lot earlier in the workout.
2: -15: Big fail on the last 3ish. Can't explain the 15lb increase, but that was last season's standard i think.
F 2,3,4:
1: -20: Nope. Horrible. Failed on r 3-4ish. Felt like my tape was slipping on f4, which i untaped after this set; but i also felt like my hands were just unraveling.
2: -20: Again, failed on the 4th rep big. No reason to incr weight 'twixt sets for this one.
Wide pinch:
1: -45: No fail! good!
2: -35: got 4 pretty solid. Last 2 r were hard hard!
Slopa':
1: +15: wow. Got 4.
2: +25: Got 3 solid, then meltdown. Again, combo of tired and sweating off the holds.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: Whew! No fail!
2: -65: Last 3ish secs last rep. Really not bad!
Really not a terrible workout, even though i was disappointed by some of the losses in strength. Interestingly, i think was actually stronger on some of the grips, and i think it's been good to heal some tendon in the interim.
I also need to start hitting the weights again. My shoulders and lats have lost some strength and i need that back. Have been riding a lot, and can say i've reclaimed some general fitness on that front. got my time trial on Kinsey back down to 1:30:06, which is better than i was this time last year. Not back to PR range, but i'm only about 5 mins off that. I've trimmed over 12 mins off that ride in under 2 weeks. There is hope yet!
HB #1 9.17.18 (Heavy--again, each grip is 3 sets in a 7/5/3 rep pyramid on a 7:3sec work:rest interval)
WUJ: -15:
Large Open:
1: +10: Maybe
2: +30: Painful. Needed to tape f2--skin was delaminating.
3: +50: Horrible. Got 1 1/2ish.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: Whew...easy at first, then fail @ end of last two. (For reminder, these are done on the tiny depression on the Trango board)
2: -55: Got 3 clean. Big fail on the last 2.
3: -40: Fail last 2sec 2nd rep. Hot out here!
F 2,3,4 Shallow Pocket:
1: -15: Fail last 1/2 rep. Whew!
2: +5: Big fail last 2.
3: + 25: Ugh. Last 2 secs last rep. Better i guess.
Slopa':
1: +20: Wow. Horrid. Fail last 3-4 reps.
2: +40: got about 3 solid. Really hot.
3: +60: Massive fail last one.
F 3,4,5 (shallow scalloped pocket):
1: -40: Last 2-3.
2: -20: Big fail last two.
3: -5: Bleh! Think i got my feet off the ground for a sec.
SemiClosed Crimp (F3 to the outside dimple on the small rail):
1: -50: end of last 3.
2: -40: Really at the end of the last 1-2 r.
3: -25: No fail, but ugh.
Following this workout my hands felt like meatloaf, and i rebuilt a timer for the intermediate HB. Under the circumstances, i can't feel too bad about how that workout went. Definitely found the utility in rebuilding my base first.
HB #2 9.20.18 (Intermediate)
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Hard though.
2: +25: bleh! Really a fail on the last 3. Shoulders were creaking, oddly.
F 3,4 (again, used the shallow pocket):
1: -45: Whew! No fail, but hard!
2: -35: Sorta a voluntary fail on the last 3--toes on the ground, as it were. Seriously tweaky, and i didn't see a reason to get injured this early.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: Fairly easy. This is a big jump in weight from Monday's sesh, but it also comes a lot earlier in the workout.
2: -15: Big fail on the last 3ish. Can't explain the 15lb increase, but that was last season's standard i think.
F 2,3,4:
1: -20: Nope. Horrible. Failed on r 3-4ish. Felt like my tape was slipping on f4, which i untaped after this set; but i also felt like my hands were just unraveling.
2: -20: Again, failed on the 4th rep big. No reason to incr weight 'twixt sets for this one.
Wide pinch:
1: -45: No fail! good!
2: -35: got 4 pretty solid. Last 2 r were hard hard!
Slopa':
1: +15: wow. Got 4.
2: +25: Got 3 solid, then meltdown. Again, combo of tired and sweating off the holds.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: Whew! No fail!
2: -65: Last 3ish secs last rep. Really not bad!
Really not a terrible workout, even though i was disappointed by some of the losses in strength. Interestingly, i think was actually stronger on some of the grips, and i think it's been good to heal some tendon in the interim.
I also need to start hitting the weights again. My shoulders and lats have lost some strength and i need that back. Have been riding a lot, and can say i've reclaimed some general fitness on that front. got my time trial on Kinsey back down to 1:30:06, which is better than i was this time last year. Not back to PR range, but i'm only about 5 mins off that. I've trimmed over 12 mins off that ride in under 2 weeks. There is hope yet!
Saturday, September 15, 2018
Enduro down: Season 9
Did get all the ARCing sessions in this last week. That's honestly kinda a load off--it is my least favorite bit of the season, and very likely one of the more important parts (as, by the time i get back 'round to it, i'm usually severely lack the endurance for anything more than about 6 moves.) Anyhow, got in all the enduro days in relatively good style, and my hands and forearms feel simply decrepit.
Happily, i've also been cleaning up the diet and getting in quite a bit of biking and running. Yesterday got in the two 30min sets of ARCing with Aeon, and then went for maybe 17 miles on the mt. bike. This morning i weighed in at 200lb. That's the lowest i've been in many, many moons. I'm a li'l excited, 'cuz diets have never worked for me before. I actually have a hope for the first time in a long time that i could strip some appreciable lard off and maybe climb well for once.
Now on to Strength phase. I'm kinda amped to get A&A on a hangboard program. I think they'll see some monstrous gains if they put some focus in. I haven't lifted weights in around 7 months now, and i also want to start adding some of that back in gingerly. It's been nice to not feel like i'm dancing on the hairy edge of injury every time i work out; but i do need to start strengthening in a more focused manner again.
Happily, i've also been cleaning up the diet and getting in quite a bit of biking and running. Yesterday got in the two 30min sets of ARCing with Aeon, and then went for maybe 17 miles on the mt. bike. This morning i weighed in at 200lb. That's the lowest i've been in many, many moons. I'm a li'l excited, 'cuz diets have never worked for me before. I actually have a hope for the first time in a long time that i could strip some appreciable lard off and maybe climb well for once.
Now on to Strength phase. I'm kinda amped to get A&A on a hangboard program. I think they'll see some monstrous gains if they put some focus in. I haven't lifted weights in around 7 months now, and i also want to start adding some of that back in gingerly. It's been nice to not feel like i'm dancing on the hairy edge of injury every time i work out; but i do need to start strengthening in a more focused manner again.
Tuesday, September 11, 2018
Season 9 Start
Looks like I'm on season 9 here. Did finish out a pretty good season in Washington, and have taken a couple of weeks off. Presently I should be on week 2 of ARCing. So far it's going ok. Back in the land of entrapment again, and the gym here is... well, it's flatly depressing. The scene here is depressing. Anyhow, that's for another place.
As for the workout, I owe 3 x 30mins of ARCing today. This'll be the last week of endurance, after which it's Hangboarding. Did get the HB back up, so that's ready to go. Y&Y is on Oct 20 this time 'round, and I'm trying to get the kids on board for that.
Don't know where any of this is going.
Ah well. Dawn of a new season, right?
As for the workout, I owe 3 x 30mins of ARCing today. This'll be the last week of endurance, after which it's Hangboarding. Did get the HB back up, so that's ready to go. Y&Y is on Oct 20 this time 'round, and I'm trying to get the kids on board for that.
Don't know where any of this is going.
Ah well. Dawn of a new season, right?
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