Thursday, September 20, 2018

Neuromuscular Reeducation: Hangboarding, Season 9

Got in HB #1 and 2 so far for season 9. On 9/17 (would'a' been Mon) i did the first session. Was basically having a very bitter irritating day all round. Got to the boards and discovered my timer (the intermediate HB) had been erased off my phone for whatever reason. Rather than spend the time rebuilding that from scratch, i went with the Heavy HB workout, which i used for the last half of the HB sessions last season. Although it is a very fine workout, it is not a good place to start, and i got m' butt handed to me. No injuries (for which i thank God), but it was an exercise in humility and focusing on not rupturing anything. Also frustrating because it'd once again been so long between seasons. I can't seem to just call it quits and start over even though i know i'd be way stronger and maybe actually see improvement if i would. so in addition to being weaker on the boards than i should be, i also have to retool where to tape up/untape, and which holds i'm using for what grip. So:

HB #1 9.17.18 (Heavy--again, each grip is 3 sets in a 7/5/3 rep pyramid on a 7:3sec work:rest interval)

WUJ: -15:

Large Open:
1: +10: Maybe
2: +30: Painful. Needed to tape f2--skin was delaminating.
3: +50: Horrible. Got 1 1/2ish.

Small Crimp:
1: -65: Whew...easy at first, then fail @ end of last two. (For reminder, these are done on the tiny depression on the Trango board)
2: -55: Got 3 clean. Big fail on the last 2.
3: -40: Fail last 2sec 2nd rep. Hot out here!

F 2,3,4 Shallow Pocket:
1: -15: Fail last 1/2 rep. Whew!
2: +5: Big fail last 2.
3: + 25: Ugh. Last 2 secs last rep. Better i guess.

Slopa':
1: +20: Wow. Horrid. Fail last 3-4 reps.
2: +40: got about 3 solid. Really hot.
3: +60: Massive fail last one.

F 3,4,5 (shallow scalloped pocket):
1: -40: Last 2-3.
2: -20: Big fail last two.
3: -5: Bleh! Think i got my feet off the ground for a sec.

SemiClosed Crimp (F3 to the outside dimple on the small rail):
1: -50: end of last 3.
2: -40: Really at the end of the last 1-2 r.
3: -25: No fail, but ugh.

Following this workout my hands felt like meatloaf, and i rebuilt a timer for the intermediate HB. Under the circumstances, i can't feel too bad about how that workout went. Definitely found the utility in rebuilding my base first.

HB #2 9.20.18 (Intermediate)

WUJ: -15

Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Hard though.
2: +25: bleh! Really a fail on the last 3. Shoulders were creaking, oddly.

F 3,4 (again, used the shallow pocket):
1: -45: Whew! No fail, but hard!
2: -35: Sorta a voluntary fail on the last 3--toes on the ground, as it were. Seriously tweaky, and i didn't see a reason to get injured this early.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: Fairly easy. This is a big jump in weight from Monday's sesh, but it also comes a lot earlier in the workout.
2: -15: Big fail on the last 3ish. Can't explain the 15lb increase, but that was last season's standard i think.

F 2,3,4:
1: -20: Nope. Horrible. Failed on r 3-4ish. Felt like my tape was slipping on f4, which i untaped after this set; but i also felt like my hands were just unraveling.
2: -20: Again, failed on the 4th rep big. No reason to incr weight 'twixt sets for this one.

Wide pinch:
1: -45: No fail! good!
2: -35: got 4 pretty solid. Last 2 r were hard hard!

Slopa':
1: +15: wow. Got 4.
2: +25: Got 3 solid, then meltdown. Again, combo of tired and sweating off the holds.

Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: Whew! No fail!
2: -65: Last 3ish secs last rep. Really not bad!

Really not a terrible workout, even though i was disappointed by some of the losses in strength. Interestingly, i think was actually stronger on some of the grips, and i think it's been good to heal some tendon in the interim.

I also need to start hitting the weights again. My shoulders and lats have lost some strength and i need that back. Have been riding a lot, and can say i've reclaimed some general fitness on that front. got my time trial on Kinsey back down to 1:30:06, which is better than i was this time last year. Not back to PR range, but i'm only about 5 mins off that. I've trimmed over 12 mins off that ride in under 2 weeks. There is hope yet!

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