11.2.8

It's, what?-- mondayish. Lessee here... last i weighed (on wed. it was) i was 198.6lbs. After a three day rest from climbing i went in semi-fresh for a laid back session today. De ja vous flashed a thin v3 for a warmup, and then had a pretty strong day of it. Didn't send much else worth talking about, but i was pulling hard on some really nice problems. Being just a few pounds lighter has a strange, near-miraculous effect on what i can hang from. Also, going in sans raging tendon injuries has a generally positive effect. Funny, but i was sticking stuff i nearly knew i was gonna fall off of when i first glanced at it. That's a real nice sort o' surprise. So if losing 3 or 4 lbs. has that kind of return, i wonder what i could climb if i dropped 15 or 20. Just gotta learn to live on protein bars and cereal. To je vsetko

Fatty indeed....

Hee heee... i got it, yesseree Bob! went in yesterday and figured The Move out, but didn't have the juice left. did, however, hook up with some other guys and under great peer pressure sent a v3 onsight, and then a different 4(ish) after three of four tries. Today i was bored between classes and thought i'd see what happened, so i stared at it for a few minutes, gave it a warmup try, then sent it. 'bout kissed that finish hold.

3.2.8

Well now. Tomorrow (mon.) will see me with three contiguous days of barely adulterated rest. Le's jus' see how 'em crankers 'n' pullers feel afta' that there now, mm. i'm fatter and significantly less conditioned than i was at the beginning of the weekend, but i feel me a v4 comin' on; yassah, i do.

my own sickness

No, i didn't send, thank you very much. But i do have bilateral bicep tendonitis. So for therapy, i went back in today for two days in a row. my hands are definitely strong enough, but i just can't lock it off with the agony in my biceps. It's like fire. But convincing myself that i need rest is like convincing an anorexic that she's not a fat cow. On the plus side, i have in the meantime sent a whole bouquet of cool 3s, and i'm pretty confident that if i can take the next two days off, i can send that 4. And it's a legitimate 4. Ibuprofen makes me happy, but it does not make me strong.

At the end of aforementioned Thurs. workout i started working a tricky v3, but didn't send because i couldn't get my hands to stay shut 'round the dinosaur egg sloper before the final move. Today i went in and sent it for a warmup. Fun climb. Then i gave 5 or six burns to a v4. i think i finally had the crux (final) move worked out. Dig the complication: the second to last hold is a bad layback crimp for the left hand maybe 18 inches above yer right. Feet are way out left on bad holds to keep tension on that left hand. For The Move, you paste yer left foot way up high-- about eight feet high in fact, rock up as high on it as possible, and jump up and out as it's an overhang. If you stick the final jug, your right hand has moved about four feet. Anyhow, i set up for that throw, got my feet up, and on a whim, i glanced down to make sure i could still see the Earth. Lo, and there was a six year old kid lying on the damned crash pad staring up at my ass with his head exactly where i was planning to chaotically jam my heels shortly-- just kinda kickin' it smiling up at me. Being the humanitarian that i am, instead of going for it, i hung there for a sec taking it in and then yelled at him. Presumeably i was fierce enough, 'cuz he darted. i dropped and looked about me incredulously at the relatively large group watching me who'd done absolutely nothing about a kid spontaneously deciding to get a tan in the obvious ground-zero of a 200 lb. walrus dangling from on high.

But i will send on mon. God allowing. i was there for almost two hours. That makes a good workout.

24.1.8

Snowboarding was enlightening. And refreshing. i climbed on Tues. and Thurs. It was so bad on Tues. that i didn't really count it as a workout, so i went back yesterday. Yesterday was better. i pulled down some hard routeage, and i feel like i can seriously start projecting v4 again. i just gotta get back in the irongym, but i can't seem to find any motivation. Instead, i'm sitting here on my off day feeling sorry for myself. i have this recurring daydream of what it'd be like to have a workout partner. Hell, i'd settle for your basic run-of-the-mill friend. i think i need more than a long weekend: i think i need a long move.

14/1/8

Catchup again. weighed in at 202.4 lbs. today. went climbing today and sat. and probably also the thurs. before. i don't think i've gained much weight-- or rather, i haven't gained any weight. i think i've just converted some more muscle weight to fat. At any rate, between thurs. and now i sent four project v3s. At least two of those were on the very hard end of 3. i think i'm getting close to 4 again, strength-wise after the tendon damage. But i'm definitely seeing the effects of a weak core and upper arms. i can latch onto stuff that i can't pull through. i've got some kind of stupid mental block about hauling m' arse back into the iron gym. i have got to, but it's almost a painful prospect. we need some encouragement on this end. Maybe a snowboarding trip to Wolf Creek'd do the trick... hmmm

5.1.8

Today i did nothing. Nuh. Theeng. Nada. Yesterday, however, as well as the day before, i went climbing. It convinced me of two things. Or rather, it convinced me of at least two things. That is to say, i'll start out with two things i was convinced of, and if i feel like it, or if it just seems somehow appropriate, i'll add in more things, which i might very well find i have also been convinced of. And i will do so without apology. First, i am actually as fat as i was afraid i might be. Incredible how gravity takes an extra handful of kilos and runs with it. There was significantly more gravity in that climbing gym than i remembered.

Second, rest is terribly useful-- maybe as useful as all those training rags, and books, and gurus make it out to be. In spite of the extra gravity, i was pulling on stuff i couldn't pull on just before we left for vacation.

Third, the wrong kind of rest is no so bueno. After less than two weeks off my forearms are sore-- as in, it-hurts-to-click-on-the-mouse sore; as in shifting-gears-(while-beneficial)-might-just-finish-off-a-tendon sore.

Fourth, sitting on my ass for 14 hours a day and drinking hard liquor in available free moments turns out to be the wrong kind of rest.

At any rate, the gym had a comp on friday, so there's lots of fun new routes up, and they bought a ton of new plastic for it. It's eerie how if you climb enough you start recognizing the same holds reused on different routes. New holds are our friends.

Regreso

Lessee here... two weeks of sitting on my butt doing nothing more strenuous than breathing is drawing to an end. i'm consoling myself with the thought that my finger and bicep tendons have had some serious down-time to knit. Now if i can lose the 5 or so lbs. i've certainly packed on, i may just be back in business. Must..find... motivation...

17.12.7

Clomb again today. Wasn't precisely inspiring, but it was way better than the last few times out. Before i hurt this finger, i was regularly flashing v3. Now i just can't seem to get back to strength. But today i was moderately strong. Hit a bunch of 2 and then strung three v3s in a row, although i'd already done 'em all. i think part of it is i'm hitting a mental block. i haven't felt 100% for a long while now, and i think i go in expecting not to feel strong. i think taking a coupl'a weeks off for travelling and then getting back in the regular gym some will be huge. i'm trying to learn more about periodizing and just how much rest i actually need. Never have been very good at that. Taking my big, chunky butt climbing at project intensity as often as Fred Nicole does just sho' ain't working for me.

8.12.7

Three weeks; three days-- who's counting? i clomb a coupl'a evenings ago with James for to avoid putting the gun in my mouth for a bit longer. And i do hafta say that three off days did me a lotta good. i'm still going to take some weeks off (starting hopefully now), but i was going insane and needed real bad to go pull the walls down. Had to take it kinda easy on my finger still, and i think i've probably gained 4 or 5 lbs. in my few days off, but i snagged a bunch o' routes for feeling like a sluggard. Very good workout in spite of the fact that i probably set back my healtime a little further. i'd bought a shiny new bottle of brandy on my way home frome school, and i was contemplating another evening of sitting here feeling tired and crappy in front of this damned monitor drinking, and when it all washed out, blowing out a finger tendon sounded healthier and more enjoyable. i am gonna start back in the irongym, but i've gotta be in the right frame of mind for it-- it's gonna be a li'l depressing till i've got a few weeks in it.

Hope yer meet has gone well.

3.12.7

i believe i've ushered in some serious weeks off from climbing with today's sub-mediocrity. Haven't actually succumbed to any serious new injuries (thank Heaven), but i've been stagnant for a while now. Keep taking a day or two off in between sessions thinking eventually i'll see another positive slope; but it ain't happening. Then today i glopped off of a v3 i've been projecting for several weeks, fell 4 or 5 times on the starting moves of a v2 i flashed a few days ago, got shut down on another v3 i've tried a few times, and finished the session off by falling off of a v1. The tendonitis in my right bicep is mostly gone, but has moved to my left arm instead. i think i'm gonna quit beating myself up for 3 or 4 weeks, and concentrate on getting my whole body strong again in the irongym. That might even leave me enough time to start up running and riding again. This kind of intense stagnation tends to break me and send me into self-destruction mode. i'm going to make some effort to avoid that this time 'round. Suggestions for a good workout?

29.11.07

i'm back in the climbgym finally. After basically two full weeks off, i went in on Tues. and again today. Very interesting sessions. The nagging pain in my finger is largely gone (although i'm still eschewing any locked-down finger nail crimps on my left hand) and the bicep tendonitis is gone insofar as i can tell. But i have about zero endurance. Very odd how it's going. i went in and sat under a v2 that'd thrown me maybe 5 times on tues., and i stared at it for a few seconds today. Sent it as soon as i could tighten my shoes without breathing hard. Then i spent some time and worked a v3 with a couple other guys and finally sent that; but i was outta juice by the third burn. Very odd, that. i sent cuz i wired it in my head and outclimbed the burn, but it was strange how fast the burn came. Then i got a couple of 2s i'd done before, and a new unrated that'll probably clock in at 2+ or 3-. i just haven't felt anywhere near 100% in a long time, and my head hasn't been totally there either. i feel a long way off of sending v5, but who knows?

Also i bought "King Lines" today, and i highly recommend it for some amazing climbing. It's inspired me to drop 20 or 30 lbs.

23.11.07

Little catchup here. Tonight i went in and climbed a bit. Mostly just to keep the joints warmed up. Felt kinda weak. Finger didn't bug me much, but i just didn't feel very great. Last night i went in to the irongym for one of the most uninspired workouts i've done in a long time. At any rate, i did some shrugs, rows, and bench. In fact, i'm kinda sore today, so i'm glad i took it real easy. i need to get back into it. Also got a couple of really good runs in the last week. i think i'll feel better if i can just ever catch up on sleep.

17.11.7 Downward Spiral

Done clumb on on thurs. evening, and it was kinda bad. Did snag a v3 and a "v2" that'd bucked me the previous 7 or 8 tries. That's a fun problem. But my right bicep is no longer resorting to vengeful sorties of tendonitis; she's threatening to secede from the union. i'm crimping in my right hand at about 50%, and the tendon pulley in my left middle finger didn't even like pumping up a blood pressure cuff yesterday. i'm going to take about two weeks off from anything like hard pulling, and see if that's enough time to heal. Presently, there ain't no way i'm gunna tag a 5 'fore January. If i can heal in two weeks back to nearly 100%, i think i can pull it off. As it is, i'm going further in the hole every time i climb. i'm hoping i can use the time productively and lose some weight on the bike and running. i went in and shopped Orbea bikes yesterday. Them's some pretty bicycles. Think i'm gonna go for an Ora. Anyhow, 15 Nov. is the last day i climbed. That means i'm off 'till about the 29th. It's the weight room and the trail for me.

13.11.7

Well. Two days after tearing it down like i've rarely torn it down, James talked me into squeezing a session in tonight. Didn't take much talking me into it; there are a lot o' problems i should'a ticked at the comp that i either screwed up cuz o' nerves, or else was just too fried to do by the time i tried 'em. Climbed through screaming tendonitis in my right bicep, and had to basically tape the tendons in my left middle finger to the bone so that it would sorta clutch things, but i sent a couple o' v3s, several 2s, and a whole bunch of 1s. Most of the climbs that just had points on 'em at the comp were rated tonight, and i had a good laugh. i was falling off of over-rated 1s and 0s 3/4 of the way through. Presently, i'm finishing up a glass of vin to wash down 600 of motrin. i'm not so confident about that v5 before Jan. as i've got about 1.5 mos. to do it in, and i really, really need about a month off to heal my tendons. i absolutely know i've already got the strength to send 5, but i'm gonna have to be close to 100%, and i don't have much time left to heal. If i can find something (non-destructive) to distract my dumb self with for two weeks or so, i might just pull it off.

Also, i did about an hour run earlier today.

11.11.7

Well, i had my comp yesterday. Gotta say that, number-wise for me, it was appalling. Totally fried myself trying to link up a v4, and then didn't have the juice left to score a handful of climbs i definitely should'a walked. Very angry at me was i. Other than that, however, it was a riot. You gotta do this thing next year. Good times. Lots of fun problems; huge number of folks from every ability level; lots of cheerleaders and beta-trading; free beer and barbeque afterward. And i won a chalk pot to boot.

i am sore in every muscle in my body, as i can honestly say that this was my first sustained four-hour v-hard climbing workout. i tore down some lesser constituent of my rotator cuff, my left finger (with the previous damage) is begging me for a month to heal, and i'm seriously having trouble typing just now. i will definitely have to find time to do that more often.

So very, very, very bad game plan notwithstanding, it was a helluva workout, and i see very clearly that i need to start lifting again (specially core and upper arms), doing more endurance work (i.e., dense, sustained moderates) and taking a bit more rest time (read: porter my fat ass out the do', and onto the track).

i will climb v5 before January. Oh yes, i will.

tues. 7.11.7 -taper

Weighed in at 202.6 yesterday, which is a two lb. loss from the week before. Last night James and i went for a last bouldering session 'fore the comp. i took two days off before yesterday, and i'll have three days off before sat. i'm hoping to be largely healed and strong. Took a long time to warm up yesterday, but i felt stronger than ever after i did. warmed up on a 2, then walked a 3 i'd done before. Then we went into the cave and started working a super contrived problem that this group of guys pieced together and was working: huge throw from underneath a roof to a pinch on the lip of it crimp ladder to the ceiling. The throw was the crux as you really need a 7ft. wingspan to hit it comfortably. But i snagged it second try (stretched to the absolute capacity of my li'l glenoids, with half a finger pad left on the start hold) for the f.a. and then sat and cheered them on for rest of the time. Probably goes at hard 2 for 6+footers and hard 3 for sub-sixers.

i'm afraid i'm gonna lose most of my projects to the comp, since they'll be clearing a lotta wall space for new routes, but that's ok. Need some fresh routes. Still, there'll be a couple i'll have bad dreams about. And James'll be leaving me in a few weeks. Bummed am i. But he'll surely be happier in a place that isn't here.

3/11/7

340 lbs.

Today i was jonesing for a workout, and wanted to see what the guns felt like after a whole off day. Definitely not back to 100 por ciento, pero fue quiza a 85ish. It made for a good workout actually. i'm not very disciplined, you see, so if i've got it in me, i climb the hardest things my li'l hands will hold on to and then go home every single time i go in. Today i started with a burn on the Nemesis v3, saw right off the bat that they wuz no way in hizzell i was gonna get that last hold, and i got on with climbing every v0 and v1 i came across. i concentrated on climbing as efficiently and easily as i could, for to stretch it out as long as i could; and when i got sloppy, i dropped off the route. It made for a white hot burn in my forearms that i haven't experienced in a long time. Also i'm sore in some very odd muscles (each of which my viscious chilluns discovered with eerie efficiency whereupon they'd mercilessly jam one of their bony appendages into it as if to exorcise it) including my left iliopsoas, which is presently preventing me from lifting that leg off the ground. Excellent workout.

Also i signed up fer th' Yank 'n' Yard today. Very excited am i.

And to answer your question 'bout the plyo, etc., i've been stretching rather extensively, and have recently added in some calf stretches to the routine, which has seemingly done a lot of good for that achilles tendon. Haven't put any twisting force on it to test it (and don't plan to), but i've noticed that it doesn't hurt me when i land now, even from some pretty big drops.

And if you decide at the last minute that making 700 C in one day maybe isn't the answer to your spiritual quest after all, you're still welcome to haul that up here and climb with me. My mother in law even said she wants to go watch it. Be a good time.

2.11.7

Today, on a whim, i clumb again. Wanted to see how i felt, and i wanted to move. Got one of the best workouts i've had in a while. And i only got the finish hold on one route, which i'd done before. The v3 that has vexed me for some weeks now came into view today. i don't know if this is the most sandbagged route i've yet tried (and i've gotten some concensus that it is fa' shizzle sandbagged) or if it just requires such a specific kind of strength, but it's hard. It's not extremely long-- maybe 7 moves-- but there isn't one positive hold on it; only big pinches and a sloper, and no rests. Plus it starts under a roof, and ends on a second roof. But today i established 4 times on penult pinch/sloper combo, which i hadn't even been able to touch before. It's just that when i'd get there i'm so scrunched that i can't let go for the last hold without sproinging to my doom. i think i can do it, but i'll hafta be able to forget about the fall.

Then i got way into another route that'll definitely be either 4 or 5. Made for a good day. Nice warm failure; no debilitating injuries.