Spaulder o'er the mail

Took three hard days off to get to today. Right, and i actually climbed yesterday, but i count it as a rest day, notwithstanding. So i clumb today, but i didn't have much time (babysitting complications; full stop). Met a friend at the gym, threw down a v2 or two, and we started working this squidgy v5 sans real warmup. i made progress, and was happy, but was wise enough to say i wouldn't get 'er today. So i recommended a tricky, thin v4 i poked at yesterday.

i slithered through the first moves, got to this weird, wide iron-cross position on a bad slippery hook for a foot, and my foot popped; leaving me, of course, hanging in that iron cross position on two slopey crimps. Long story short [funny how i can make stories that really took fractions of a second to transpire into minutes-long epics when i'm largely drunk and .5 hrs into a sleeping pill], i did some egregious damage to my poor rotator cuff again. She hurts. ( i call 'er a "she" 'cuz she whines more than any male i know, the hatchet wound).

Anyhow, instead of crying like a li'l girl i jumped back on and sent. Then we went upstairs to the roof, and i nearly sent the stupid 4 i've been working on for a few days now. Only i botched the last friggin' move and crumpled. Then i went to class. Could hardly steer my car 'cuz of m' shoulder. Could hardly think in class 'cuz of my wankery on that finish hold.

we got outta class early, so i ok'd it with Steph and went back to the gym. i wanted to be sure my shoulder was warmish, so i ran through this v3 i've done before. It's got this 3-4 finger suitcase handle hold on it on the roof. Turns out it should be 3 fingers 'cause i used 4, my feet cut loose, i swung one-handed, pulled myself back on and sent; dropped and i'd torn most of the important bits of the proximal phalanx of my pinkie off. i was very glad it was on the right hand, because between a strained Q.L., and the newly thrashed rotator cuff, a bleeding flapper on the left would'a' been excessive.

So i taped up real good and sent that yotch: two new 4s in a day.

The shoulder at this point was armoring up something ferocious, so i wanted to make it a good day before i couldn't utilize it further. Went down to the boulder and pulled through a v4 crimp problem i'd done before. i really doubt that it's a proper 4, but that's what the tape says, so i'll take it. Three 4s in a day, all on a damaged rotator cuff. If i heal from this, and drop five lbs., i might be pushing hard stuff again.