Seems like i climbed (like poo) Monday and Tuesday. I think sometime o'er the weekend i did a sprint workout. Yesterday i did nothing whatever. My forearms feel frayed and aged. Thinkin' i'm 'bout at the end o' the season. Think i might try one more day of it tomorrow if i get the chance.
Actually kinda looking forward to starting over with a new season. Have some things i wanna improve.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
Friday, October 24, 2014
Comp #2 this week
Climbed another comp last night. I could have won it, but Tuesday's session destroyed me. Failed on climbs and moves i've done many times and tired. Very good workout, but very sad comp. Planned that one way wrong. Ah well: it was still pretty fun.
End of the season is nigh.
End of the season is nigh.
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
Heavy Ketchup
Look like it been ten day since i posted up in yah. See if i can 'member what i done.
That monday (woulda been 10/13) i went back in and did manage to send that problem that'd been stumpin' me. It seems like i went back in about once more--probably Thurs-- for some climbing before YnY, but kept it reasonably low-volume what so's i might make a showing at el comp. Do believe i did a sprint workout somewhere in there.
Yank 'n' Yard!!: Really awesome problems. Didn't do too badly all things considered. Got 6th in my age group, but i was one harder problem off of third. Pretty tight grouping there. And i got to the silly thing half an hour late cuz the geniuses in NM DOT had I-25 completely shut down and let us know about that a hundred meters before it happened. So my warmup consisted of a v3 dyno problem. So: i do believe i could've performed better, but i ain't complainin'. And it was a blasty blast to do some creative problems. And the pro comp was the coolest i've seen yet.
Monday i think i climbed for a while in a largely humdrum, non-committal state. Then yesterday i went back in for a "warmup" just to get the mitts moving, and ended up having a stellar day of it. Sent some pretty hard problems after all was said and done.
Today i sprinted. Did 6 or 7 intervals of 20 secs. Didn't feel too hot. Li'l stressed. But it felt good to move.
Tomorrow there's a comp at the college. Ends up being a funny comp style, cuz all of us that actually compete have pretty much already done all the hard climbs, and have 'em wired-- 'cuz they put the routes up in some cases weeks ahead of time. So it ends up being more of a speed-endurance comp than a redpoint comp. You got like an hour and a half to do as many climbs as you can, so the goal is to do all of 'em in the time. Not a necessarily-bad setup, but it's definitely slanted to the locals. It pretty much comes down to who fell the fewest times. It might be a better format if it were timed. Anyhow, we'll see.
That monday (woulda been 10/13) i went back in and did manage to send that problem that'd been stumpin' me. It seems like i went back in about once more--probably Thurs-- for some climbing before YnY, but kept it reasonably low-volume what so's i might make a showing at el comp. Do believe i did a sprint workout somewhere in there.
Yank 'n' Yard!!: Really awesome problems. Didn't do too badly all things considered. Got 6th in my age group, but i was one harder problem off of third. Pretty tight grouping there. And i got to the silly thing half an hour late cuz the geniuses in NM DOT had I-25 completely shut down and let us know about that a hundred meters before it happened. So my warmup consisted of a v3 dyno problem. So: i do believe i could've performed better, but i ain't complainin'. And it was a blasty blast to do some creative problems. And the pro comp was the coolest i've seen yet.
Monday i think i climbed for a while in a largely humdrum, non-committal state. Then yesterday i went back in for a "warmup" just to get the mitts moving, and ended up having a stellar day of it. Sent some pretty hard problems after all was said and done.
Today i sprinted. Did 6 or 7 intervals of 20 secs. Didn't feel too hot. Li'l stressed. But it felt good to move.
Tomorrow there's a comp at the college. Ends up being a funny comp style, cuz all of us that actually compete have pretty much already done all the hard climbs, and have 'em wired-- 'cuz they put the routes up in some cases weeks ahead of time. So it ends up being more of a speed-endurance comp than a redpoint comp. You got like an hour and a half to do as many climbs as you can, so the goal is to do all of 'em in the time. Not a necessarily-bad setup, but it's definitely slanted to the locals. It pretty much comes down to who fell the fewest times. It might be a better format if it were timed. Anyhow, we'll see.
Sunday, October 12, 2014
Bould'rin'--you know, for endurance
Bouldered on Thurs and Fri as well, to make three days of it in a row. (Didn't honestly figure i'd get to climb over the weekend, and that's proving a good bet). Really spent almost the whole of both sessions (after warming up) on a single problem one of the setters put up as a stumper. As it worked out, i'd hurt my triceps a few days before, and couldn't work the sequence he'd obviously intended. So i found a much easier work around, and worked out all the moves on Thurs. But i was too spent to link. The finish match is the crux move for me; and although i did manage it, it comes after a really pretty long problem. So getting there with the Send Guns primed is gunna take a fresh day and some pixie dust.
At any rate, i worked all the moves on Thurs, but couldn't link. So i went back on Fri set on sending, and i started out working the finish move to wire it; but i couldn't manage it at all. I was getting a li'l withered and grey of mood until i tried the problem from the start and couldn't get the wonky middle roof bit at all either-- which i'd done 3 or 4 times in a row the day before. Interestingly, that satisfied me that i was simply too tired to climb, and not (as i was starting to accept) too weak. I think it'll go tomorrow.
Gunna try to keep this week light on the climbing, especially toward the end, 'cuz Yank 'n' Yard is next Sat. Be fun to pull down some numbers at that.
I'm'a try to squeeze a run in today if i get the chance.
[Aaaand did squeeze that run in. Brisk out, but still got the ol' HR up. 12 x 20sec sprint intervals with 10secs of rest between. 'Bout 18 mins total. ]
At any rate, i worked all the moves on Thurs, but couldn't link. So i went back on Fri set on sending, and i started out working the finish move to wire it; but i couldn't manage it at all. I was getting a li'l withered and grey of mood until i tried the problem from the start and couldn't get the wonky middle roof bit at all either-- which i'd done 3 or 4 times in a row the day before. Interestingly, that satisfied me that i was simply too tired to climb, and not (as i was starting to accept) too weak. I think it'll go tomorrow.
Gunna try to keep this week light on the climbing, especially toward the end, 'cuz Yank 'n' Yard is next Sat. Be fun to pull down some numbers at that.
I'm'a try to squeeze a run in today if i get the chance.
[Aaaand did squeeze that run in. Brisk out, but still got the ol' HR up. 12 x 20sec sprint intervals with 10secs of rest between. 'Bout 18 mins total. ]
Thursday, October 9, 2014
Divested of purpose
Climbed yesterday. It was not (as it perhaps should have been) a "power endurance" day. I bouldered. And it was fun. Got a couple o' good problems. First was the proj i was working on monday: an eliminate, direct of what's probably a v3. Seems like it'd go at about v5. Hard problem to me; and i've had some feedback from other folks that it's hard. Little bit amped to tag that one.
Also got a thin, crimpy problem-- prolly beta v3 or 4. Very sequence-dependent. Also a good 'un.
Then i did a bunch of other problems. Good workout and my tips are shredded, but no real injuries.
Also got a thin, crimpy problem-- prolly beta v3 or 4. Very sequence-dependent. Also a good 'un.
Then i did a bunch of other problems. Good workout and my tips are shredded, but no real injuries.
Tuesday, October 7, 2014
New week
Worked all day friday and saturday, so i got basically nuthin' done on the fitness front. Yesterday (monday) i got in a 12 min ARC warmup, and then worked a flippin' hard boulder problem for a good long while. Don't know quite what it'd go at--didn't manage the link; but the individual moves are hard. Did get 'em all, but i pulled a triceps muscle on a link burn, and that was pretty much the end. Neat route though.
Weighed in at 193.6 this morning. That's encouraging, but i think i can get to 190 or below before send time if i get a bit stricter on ye olde diet. Sprinted today. Same deal: 12 intervals of 20 secs hard with 10 secs' rest. Pretty day for it. i diggy October. But the coolness makes it harder to get my HR into range. I'll take it though.
Tomorrow's up in the air: wanna climb again if my humerus allows me to, but i might do something different so's to be rested for thursday. And that wouldn't be bad cuz i've no flesh left on my finger tips. Wanna do the Yank 'n' Yard on the 18th, and i need to be in good form for that. Plus that'll be the end of my first week of the Sending Phase. :)
Weighed in at 193.6 this morning. That's encouraging, but i think i can get to 190 or below before send time if i get a bit stricter on ye olde diet. Sprinted today. Same deal: 12 intervals of 20 secs hard with 10 secs' rest. Pretty day for it. i diggy October. But the coolness makes it harder to get my HR into range. I'll take it though.
Tomorrow's up in the air: wanna climb again if my humerus allows me to, but i might do something different so's to be rested for thursday. And that wouldn't be bad cuz i've no flesh left on my finger tips. Wanna do the Yank 'n' Yard on the 18th, and i need to be in good form for that. Plus that'll be the end of my first week of the Sending Phase. :)
Thursday, October 2, 2014
Mish Mash
[Addendum: i think i originally wrote the following on Wednesday, but i didn't manage to finish it till yesterday (thursday), after which i also did a sprint workout, that (obviously) i didn't post. So posting that bit up will thoroughly muck up the dates and tenses without this note.
Anyhow, sprinted yesterday. 7 min warmup HR in the 140s, then 12 intervals of 20 sec sprinting with 10 sec rests between. Nice cool weather.
Shoulda been 10/2/14.]
Guess i have a catchup to do. Monday i did, indeed, go back to the gym. Worked on that problem again, and tried it on lead after i'd worked out a sequence. But my first time up i was in a precarious hand swap, and made the mistake of looking down at my belayer who was staring into space. Yelled to get his attention, but got no eye contact. So i just dropped rather than risk blowing a clip. Li'l miffed. Next burn i was just too tired. Really not a good session, even though i got a decent workout outta it.
Today i went back to do some boulder circuits. 12 min ARC warmup. Then i got sidetracked for a good long while working a new boulder problem. Good time, and a crimpy powerful problem to be sure, but i didn't exactly get the correct "power endurance" training stimulus.
Then i switched to my boulder circuit problem. That's getting a li'l depressing. Still have never actually finished it. Notwithstanding, i made some tweaks to it, and it's way more doable and fully linked now. So i think i could do it a few times were i fresh. It's just bumming that it's taken me most of the PE phase to hone a workable route. Eh, well, i'll have a much better idea of what i need for next season; and i have definitely gotten some good PE workouts in on routes.
Next week calls for route intervals instead of the linked boulder circuit. This weekend i'm supposed to do some redpointing, but i work all day friday and saturday, so it's iffy.
Anyhow, sprinted yesterday. 7 min warmup HR in the 140s, then 12 intervals of 20 sec sprinting with 10 sec rests between. Nice cool weather.
Shoulda been 10/2/14.]
Guess i have a catchup to do. Monday i did, indeed, go back to the gym. Worked on that problem again, and tried it on lead after i'd worked out a sequence. But my first time up i was in a precarious hand swap, and made the mistake of looking down at my belayer who was staring into space. Yelled to get his attention, but got no eye contact. So i just dropped rather than risk blowing a clip. Li'l miffed. Next burn i was just too tired. Really not a good session, even though i got a decent workout outta it.
Today i went back to do some boulder circuits. 12 min ARC warmup. Then i got sidetracked for a good long while working a new boulder problem. Good time, and a crimpy powerful problem to be sure, but i didn't exactly get the correct "power endurance" training stimulus.
Then i switched to my boulder circuit problem. That's getting a li'l depressing. Still have never actually finished it. Notwithstanding, i made some tweaks to it, and it's way more doable and fully linked now. So i think i could do it a few times were i fresh. It's just bumming that it's taken me most of the PE phase to hone a workable route. Eh, well, i'll have a much better idea of what i need for next season; and i have definitely gotten some good PE workouts in on routes.
Next week calls for route intervals instead of the linked boulder circuit. This weekend i'm supposed to do some redpointing, but i work all day friday and saturday, so it's iffy.
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