A lapse since i've posted yet again. At any rate, have made it through a couple of workouts on the "Heavy" timer. Also weighed in at 198 last night which was down from 201 from the workouts prior. That was a nice touch.
I'm roughly comparing this to the last time i worked on Heavy timer which would'a' been HB #9 (4th workout on Heavy) from S:10 on 2/2/19. That day i weighed in at 206 clothed.
9.28.19 HB #5. Heavy Timer. 198 clothed.
WUJ: -15: Just fine
Large Open:
1: +10↓: No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30↓: No fail.
3: +50↓: No fail. Dropped the intensity here by design.
Small Crimp:
1: -60↔: No fail. Not too bad.
2: -40↔: No fail this time. Better.
3: -20↑: K. Got one solidly, then melted.
F 2,3,4:
1: -10↑: Much betta! No fail.
2: +10↑: No fail. HA!
3: +30↑: No fail. Yeah better.
Slopa':
1: +20↑: Last 3 secs last rep.
2: +40↑: Got 3 solid. Last 2 were sub-super.
3: +60↑: HaHa! No fail. Maybe cooler out.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40↔: Alrighty. No fail. Li'l spicy at the end.
2: -20↑: K. 'Bout last 4 sec last rep. Whooo.
3: BW↑: Yeah. Last 3 sec last rep. Better.
SemiClosed:
1: -45↔No fail, but hard at the end.
2: -25↔: Last 2 sec last rep.
3: -5↔: Last 2 sec. Bueno!
So, observations: It's tricky to compare workouts from season to season as there're so many variables (weight, temp, days of rest prior, etc.), but any way i slice it, i really haven't lost any substantial strength since February. That's comforting, 'cuz i really have been climbing much in the meantime. Some; but not much.
On the first of these Heavy workouts i upped the poundage on the Large Open grip, just because i was confident i could. However, i think it killed me for the remainder of the workout, which is why i didn't up it last season. Interesting to take it up and see what happened; and interesting that it did seem to affect the quality of the subsequent workout fairly substantially. Interesting because it's difficult to say what will and won't upset what comes after in a noticeable way. That's to say, the heterogeneity of the grips (basically, the finger joint angles, and joints involved) make it tricky to decide what order the whole thing should optimally follow. The Large Open, e.g., is one of the heavier (easier) grips, and also one of the least important for building strength on (as it's not that sort of grip that typically leads to failure on a route). But it's a nice first grip as it is relatively safe, and does notwithstanding invoke recruitment. It that place, though, it works out to be a kind of throwaway hold--a warmup. Nothing wrong with that if it vaults one stronger on the tiny holds; but then i'd wonder if i wouldn't benefit more still by taking the weight down yet another notch.
Monday, September 30, 2019
Tuesday, September 24, 2019
S:11 Hangboarding Propa'
Posted earlier today about Enduro Hangboarding. Have, though, already made it through 3 sessions additionally of regular strength HBing. Going well enough, i think. Got through #3 two days ago, and that should do it for the "Intermediate" timer, which--as i've elucidated in earlier posts--feels more on the endurance side of strength training. I'll record #3 alone below for a waypost. Plan is tomorrow to move to the "Heavy" timer, God allowing. The "Intermediate" timer (to recap) comprises 8 grips (including the warmup jug), with 2 sets on each grip (excluding the WUJ). Sets are 7 and then 6 reps respectively, of 7 second reps with 3 second rests. Three minutes between each set. It's usually (but not always) about a 10 lb increase between sets.
9.22.19 HB #3 S:11 Intermediate Timer. 201 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +20↔: No fail, not bad.
2: +40↑: Failed last 2 sec last rep.
F 3,4:
1: -40↔: No fail. Better i think.
2: -30↔: Better! Got 4. Failed end of last 2. Real nervous about pushing these.
SemiClosed:
1: -20↔: Ooo...No fail. Hard.
2: -10↔: Got most of 4. Melted on last 2.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15↔: Ugh. toe down on the last 2 secs.
2: -5↔: Better. Got 4 clean. Last rep was a meltdown.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Whew! Got 6. Last rep was bad.
2: -30↔: K. Very end of 4th rep. Last two were fails.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got nearly 5. Better i think.
2: +25↑: Yup most of 4. Weight on these doesn't seem to be the limiter. Just can't seem to hang on longer than 4 reps. Kinda weird.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55↑: Got 'em all. That's a forward step.
2: -45↑: Got 3 clean. No bad! These though...these hurt. Feel arthritic after these.
Got about 3.5 weeks 'til YnY, and i'd love to get some campusing in prior. Plan is to do three workouts on the "Heavy" timer and then three workouts on the "Power" timer. May modify that to 4:2 as observation might recommend.
I'd also note that Mr. S.I. got in a second workout on the "Basic" timer, and is taking to that like a fish to water. He gun' be a strong climba if he keeps that up.
9.22.19 HB #3 S:11 Intermediate Timer. 201 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +20↔: No fail, not bad.
2: +40↑: Failed last 2 sec last rep.
F 3,4:
1: -40↔: No fail. Better i think.
2: -30↔: Better! Got 4. Failed end of last 2. Real nervous about pushing these.
SemiClosed:
1: -20↔: Ooo...No fail. Hard.
2: -10↔: Got most of 4. Melted on last 2.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15↔: Ugh. toe down on the last 2 secs.
2: -5↔: Better. Got 4 clean. Last rep was a meltdown.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Whew! Got 6. Last rep was bad.
2: -30↔: K. Very end of 4th rep. Last two were fails.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got nearly 5. Better i think.
2: +25↑: Yup most of 4. Weight on these doesn't seem to be the limiter. Just can't seem to hang on longer than 4 reps. Kinda weird.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55↑: Got 'em all. That's a forward step.
2: -45↑: Got 3 clean. No bad! These though...these hurt. Feel arthritic after these.
Got about 3.5 weeks 'til YnY, and i'd love to get some campusing in prior. Plan is to do three workouts on the "Heavy" timer and then three workouts on the "Power" timer. May modify that to 4:2 as observation might recommend.
I'd also note that Mr. S.I. got in a second workout on the "Basic" timer, and is taking to that like a fish to water. He gun' be a strong climba if he keeps that up.
Season 11
Been a weird one so far, which is perfectly commensurate with the ambient span of time against which it finds itself having been weird.
Nuts and bolts-wise, I just did what normally would be considered Hangboard #3 for the season (on 9/22/19). And that'd be after after a very solid 7 months' hiatus since the last season's hangboarding. However, this time round i did the Enduro sessions on the hangboard as well. Designed a timer and weighting scheme to try and mock up endurance climbing on the board. Quite tricky really, and it remains to be seen how it'll transfer.
For the Enduro workout i picked 10 grips. Timer's set up for 2 sets per grip, although i cycle through the whole workout and start over for the subsequent set. Each set comprises 10 reps, and each rep is a 15 second hang with 3 secs' rest. Two minutes' rest between sets. That gives a 5:1 duty cycle (which is probably excessive) and after two sets on each grip, a TUT of 50 minutes. The tricky bit here is nailing the load. I didn't treat it too fastidiously respecting weight off, as the point is to more-or-less mock climbing for the amount of time. But it was interesting to see how much weight i'd need to take off to hang on those holds for that amount of time. Fun science project, and I gotta say i found next to nothing out there by way of informing this kind of training. Seems most folks do endurance on a hangboard by sticking jibs about their door frame moving their hands hither and thither. And the thing is, that's what this workout ended up not being like. I think mostly due to the duty cycle, this ended up being more of a brutally long, lactate threshold workout. Which could pan out to be a fabulous and (more importantly) repeatable and measurable breed of endurance training.
Ended up doing 4 Enduro workouts, which would (in theory) take the place of ARCing. The first 3 went through the timer twice for 50 minutes' TUT. The 4th went through thrice for 75 minutes' TUT. I'll only record the 4th to spare tedium. Also, just prior to this last one i installed a fan on the boards, which is one of my more brilliant feats of progression.
9.12.19 HB #4 S:11 Enduro. 200lbs clothed.
Jug:
1: -60: No fail
2: -70: No fail
3: -80: No fail
Large Open:
1: -60↓: No fail, Massive pump.
2: -75: Ugh. Last 3 sec last rep.
3: -95...
Small Crimp:
1: -90: Whew. Megapump. No fail.
2: -105: End of last 4.
3: -115: Don't know. Maybe 5.
F 3,4,5:
1: -75: No fail. Ach!
2: -95: No fail. Ok
3: -110: No fail. Harness is sub-comfortable.
Slopa':
1: -75↓: Ugh. No fail.
2: -95: Think i got 4.
3: -110: Not sure...6ish.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -105: AAAAaa! No fail.
2: -115: Bleh. Botched it up.
3: -115: K 6ish +/-
F 2,3,4:
1: -75↓: No fail. Not bad.
2: -95: 'Bout right. Toasty burn, no fail.
3: -110: No fail. Ok.
SemiClosed:
1: -85↓: No fail. Better.
2: -105: Yup no fail. Correct.
3: -115: No fail. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -100↓: Last 2 sec last rep. About right.
2: -115: Think i got 6.
3: -115: Spotty. Got 6+.
F 3,4:
1: -105↓: No fail.
2: -115: No fail.
3: -115: No fail. To je vsetko.
Worked out to be a brutal Enduro sesh. Some observations: 1) The sets decrease in weight from set to set--so more like traditional pyramid to failure schema as on weights. 2) I never took off more than 115 as the system becomes sketchy, and the exercise becomes sorta pointless. At my weight, it worked out ok at any rate. 3) When i mention "failure" it's in the loosest sense. Basically, it involves putting a toe down and taking off as little weight as possible to continue hanging. Don't really care about failure (except insofar as it gives me a metric for somewhat-objective improvement from one workout to the next) as the whole thing is about hanging on for the projected TUT; but i will say the weight off--when correct--takes a lot of fudge factor out, and makes me more honest about how much work i'm doing.
Nuts and bolts-wise, I just did what normally would be considered Hangboard #3 for the season (on 9/22/19). And that'd be after after a very solid 7 months' hiatus since the last season's hangboarding. However, this time round i did the Enduro sessions on the hangboard as well. Designed a timer and weighting scheme to try and mock up endurance climbing on the board. Quite tricky really, and it remains to be seen how it'll transfer.
For the Enduro workout i picked 10 grips. Timer's set up for 2 sets per grip, although i cycle through the whole workout and start over for the subsequent set. Each set comprises 10 reps, and each rep is a 15 second hang with 3 secs' rest. Two minutes' rest between sets. That gives a 5:1 duty cycle (which is probably excessive) and after two sets on each grip, a TUT of 50 minutes. The tricky bit here is nailing the load. I didn't treat it too fastidiously respecting weight off, as the point is to more-or-less mock climbing for the amount of time. But it was interesting to see how much weight i'd need to take off to hang on those holds for that amount of time. Fun science project, and I gotta say i found next to nothing out there by way of informing this kind of training. Seems most folks do endurance on a hangboard by sticking jibs about their door frame moving their hands hither and thither. And the thing is, that's what this workout ended up not being like. I think mostly due to the duty cycle, this ended up being more of a brutally long, lactate threshold workout. Which could pan out to be a fabulous and (more importantly) repeatable and measurable breed of endurance training.
Ended up doing 4 Enduro workouts, which would (in theory) take the place of ARCing. The first 3 went through the timer twice for 50 minutes' TUT. The 4th went through thrice for 75 minutes' TUT. I'll only record the 4th to spare tedium. Also, just prior to this last one i installed a fan on the boards, which is one of my more brilliant feats of progression.
9.12.19 HB #4 S:11 Enduro. 200lbs clothed.
Jug:
1: -60: No fail
2: -70: No fail
3: -80: No fail
Large Open:
1: -60↓: No fail, Massive pump.
2: -75: Ugh. Last 3 sec last rep.
3: -95...
Small Crimp:
1: -90: Whew. Megapump. No fail.
2: -105: End of last 4.
3: -115: Don't know. Maybe 5.
F 3,4,5:
1: -75: No fail. Ach!
2: -95: No fail. Ok
3: -110: No fail. Harness is sub-comfortable.
Slopa':
1: -75↓: Ugh. No fail.
2: -95: Think i got 4.
3: -110: Not sure...6ish.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -105: AAAAaa! No fail.
2: -115: Bleh. Botched it up.
3: -115: K 6ish +/-
F 2,3,4:
1: -75↓: No fail. Not bad.
2: -95: 'Bout right. Toasty burn, no fail.
3: -110: No fail. Ok.
SemiClosed:
1: -85↓: No fail. Better.
2: -105: Yup no fail. Correct.
3: -115: No fail. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -100↓: Last 2 sec last rep. About right.
2: -115: Think i got 6.
3: -115: Spotty. Got 6+.
F 3,4:
1: -105↓: No fail.
2: -115: No fail.
3: -115: No fail. To je vsetko.
Worked out to be a brutal Enduro sesh. Some observations: 1) The sets decrease in weight from set to set--so more like traditional pyramid to failure schema as on weights. 2) I never took off more than 115 as the system becomes sketchy, and the exercise becomes sorta pointless. At my weight, it worked out ok at any rate. 3) When i mention "failure" it's in the loosest sense. Basically, it involves putting a toe down and taking off as little weight as possible to continue hanging. Don't really care about failure (except insofar as it gives me a metric for somewhat-objective improvement from one workout to the next) as the whole thing is about hanging on for the projected TUT; but i will say the weight off--when correct--takes a lot of fudge factor out, and makes me more honest about how much work i'm doing.
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