Season 11

Been a weird one so far, which is perfectly commensurate with the ambient span of time against which it finds itself having been weird.

Nuts and bolts-wise, I just did what normally would be considered Hangboard #3 for the season (on 9/22/19). And that'd be after after a very solid 7 months' hiatus since the last season's hangboarding. However, this time round i did the Enduro sessions on the hangboard as well. Designed a timer and weighting scheme to try and mock up endurance climbing on the board. Quite tricky really, and it remains to be seen how it'll transfer.

For the Enduro workout i picked 10 grips. Timer's set up for 2 sets per grip, although i cycle through the whole workout and start over for the subsequent set. Each set comprises 10 reps, and each rep is a 15 second hang with 3 secs' rest. Two minutes' rest between sets. That gives a 5:1 duty cycle (which is probably excessive) and after two sets on each grip, a TUT of 50 minutes. The tricky bit here is nailing the load. I didn't treat it too fastidiously respecting weight off, as the point is to more-or-less mock climbing for the amount of time. But it was interesting to see how much weight i'd need to take off to hang on those holds for that amount of time. Fun science project, and I gotta say i found next to nothing out there by way of informing this kind of training. Seems most folks do endurance on a hangboard by sticking jibs about their door frame moving their hands hither and thither. And the thing is, that's what this workout ended up not being like. I think mostly due to the duty cycle, this ended up being more of a brutally long, lactate threshold workout. Which could pan out to be a fabulous and (more importantly) repeatable and measurable breed of endurance training.

Ended up doing 4 Enduro workouts, which would (in theory) take the place of ARCing. The first 3 went through the timer twice for 50 minutes' TUT. The 4th went through thrice for 75 minutes' TUT. I'll only record the 4th to spare tedium. Also, just prior to this last one i installed a fan on the boards, which is one of my more brilliant feats of progression.

9.12.19 HB #4 S:11 Enduro. 200lbs clothed.

Jug:
1: -60: No fail
2: -70: No fail
3: -80: No fail

Large Open:
1: -60↓: No fail, Massive pump.
2: -75: Ugh. Last 3 sec last rep.
3: -95...

Small Crimp:
1: -90: Whew. Megapump. No fail.
2: -105: End of last 4.
3: -115: Don't know. Maybe 5.

F 3,4,5:
1: -75: No fail. Ach!
2: -95: No fail. Ok
3: -110: No fail. Harness is sub-comfortable.

Slopa':
1: -75↓: Ugh. No fail.
2: -95: Think i got 4.
3: -110: Not sure...6ish.

Narrow Pinch:
1: -105: AAAAaa! No fail.
2: -115: Bleh. Botched it up.
3: -115: K 6ish +/-

F 2,3,4:
1: -75↓: No fail. Not bad.
2: -95: 'Bout right. Toasty burn, no fail.
3: -110: No fail. Ok.

SemiClosed:
1: -85↓: No fail. Better.
2: -105: Yup no fail. Correct.
3: -115: No fail. Ugh.

Wide Pinch:
1: -100↓: Last 2 sec last rep. About right.
2: -115: Think i got 6.
3: -115: Spotty. Got 6+.

F 3,4:
1: -105↓: No fail.
2: -115: No fail.
3: -115: No fail. To je vsetko.

Worked out to be a brutal Enduro sesh. Some observations: 1) The sets decrease in weight from set to set--so more like traditional pyramid to failure schema as on weights. 2) I never took off more than 115 as the system becomes sketchy, and the exercise becomes sorta pointless. At my weight, it worked out ok at any rate. 3) When i mention "failure" it's in the loosest sense. Basically, it involves putting a toe down and taking off as little weight as possible to continue hanging. Don't really care about failure (except insofar as it gives me a metric for somewhat-objective improvement from one workout to the next) as the whole thing is about hanging on for the projected TUT; but i will say the weight off--when correct--takes a lot of fudge factor out, and makes me more honest about how much work i'm doing.