Season 13

OK: So it's looking like I got in 4 Campus workouts last season, the last being on 2.2.20. Got sidetracked on that, but did continue climbing, and pulled down some good problems in the gym until covid shut us down. Of note, I incurred a pretty high-grade tear in a hamstring before that--sometime in the week prior to 1.28.

Just started this season on 4.5.20: 2 months after the last Campus workout, so pretty much right on time. Went with the Intermediate timer, and it was depressing. Haven't worked that one in quite a long time. Think I last did that one in Sept 2019. I have traditionally used that as a kind of proxy for Enduro climbing, or to transition from actual Enduro to Strength. And as I haven't done any Endurance in an embarrassingly long time, that is quite naturally my weak link. I've recently felt pretty strong, but just can't pull many moves strung together. That's archetypal bouldering shape, I'd guess.

So to highlight the grip configs I've been neglecting and also to work on Endurance, I put together a new timer. Basically modified the Intermediate timer's grip progression into something completely different. Normally the timer is two sets on each grip with 7 reps on the first set, and 6 on the second. Then it's 3 minutes between sets. With the same 7 sec hang/ 3 sec rest duty cycle, I welded the two sets together with a longer 10 sec "shakeout" between. So it's basically 13 reps per set (excepting the WUJ which stayed at 7 reps--although I might increase that for more TUT). Then I reduced the rest interval between sets to 1 min, which is just enough time to change weights, clip back in, and look intently at a chalk bag. Then (so far) I've doubled that timer. So after a 3 min rest, it starts over. With 2 of these supersets, that makes for about 23 minutes TUT (so each superset is a li'l over 11 mins TUT). Also, i'm recording these just as for the Intermediate timer, but each set indicates the 13 reps of that grip, and moves to the next grip same set. The 2nd set of a grip indicates the second iteration or superset of the timer.

Yesterday i did the second workout on that timer, both with two of these supersets. The first workout (4.11.20) was basically dialing weights, but it went well. Did the second session yesterday (4.15.20) and the weights were pretty much spot on. I'll record that below. I'd like to tweak the timer to work up to 3 or 4 supersets. That, I think, would put me in really good endurance fitness. Importantly, the point of this is not to go to failure, but to achieve a nice, monstrous pump.

WUJ:
1: -15
2: -15

Large Open:
1: -75: This was a screw-up. Was supposed to be BW, but i had the pin set for the next workout and just clipped in on auto pilot.
2: -30: Very hard at the end. 'Bout right.

F 3,4:
1: -75: Not bad.
2: -75: These got hard at the end, but not bad.

SemiClosed:
1: -50: 'Bout right.
2: -60: Perfect. Real hard at the end.

F 2,3,4:
1: -40: Got real hard, but no fail.
2: -60: Right weight. No fail.

Wide Pinch:
1: -75: Yeah. No fail.
2: -90: Much better. Hard and no fail.

Slopa':
1: -60: Again, much better dialed this time. Spicy.
2: -80: Yeah. Right on.

Narrow Pinch:
1: -90: No fail. Good first set!
2: -100: No fail. That one was even a li'l easy.

This was a really good workout, and felt like it mocked up the duty cycle of ARCing pretty closely, which I've had a really hard time doing on a hangboard. Wanna do 3 iterations for the next workout and see how that goes.