Leap Day

200,000.4 lbs. Today is a rest day. Wed. was my second day in the rockgym in a row, and thereafter i was in such agonizing pain that i declared a week off for myself and took 1200 of ibuprofen to celebrate. Unfortunately the ibuprofen worked too well, and i went back again for a third day in a row on thurs. Didn't send much, but i didn't do too much additional damage either. For now at least i'm hopeful, that i'll be off 'till at least tues. which should make for five off-days. i need 'em: there's no skin left on my fingers, and i've dislocated my shoulder maybe four times proper. i was back over 200lbs. as of wed., and i felt every ounce of it. But the weather's gorgeous, and i'm hopeful that i can start running regularly soon-- just gotta get my woman here to watch the kids when she's not in the throes of a nervous breakdown. Oh, and i'm planning (GOD allowing) to go snowboarding tomorrow. That ought'a get the blood flowing.

Shut down like a cellar

198.6 lbs.

After two days of terrible anticipation, i shinned on in to throw myself at my li'l v4 again. i finally managed to repeat the crux move, and even (sorta) linked through it from the sit start (although my foot brushed the ground). However, after the fourth time my shoulder tried to disencumber itself of its moorings, i left off for some new source of inspiration. i've got all the moves wired up to the crux, but i can't friggin' remember how i did that friggin' move. i did get it clean once today, but even then i dropped off and was like, Ok...Now what'd i just do? i totally know if i can go in clear-headed and strong i can do that climb-- i've done all the moves on it. But it's definitely a 4. And you sorta gotta hang all yer weight on the rotator cuff for a split second at the end of that crux dyno, and that is a real weakness for me. It's all about twisting yer body in this certain magical way that shifts yer weight onto the biceps in mid-flight, but i'll be danged if i can remember how to do it after i've done it. Each time i've snagged it it's felt easy, but if i miss a bit i have to reduce my shoulder and cry a li'l bit. Not a very inspiring day, but i 100% know that if i can show up strong that it'll fall.

19.2.8

...i could just haul m' flabby arse into the proper gym. Indeed, that is my plan for this evening. i am going to go bench press something, and i am going to like it.

i also went in to the climbgym again today for a less unenthusiastic workout than sunday's. That piece of a climb that i sent first go with those guys that day has for some reason been obsessing me, and's become my new project. It's a v4, and i think i got the whole thing if i can just feel that strong again soon. i linked from the crux move to the finish the other day (which is what those guys were working on), and today i linked from the sit-start to that crux start. But i couldn't do the crux move again today. Just kinda felt off still. It's a sick climb though-- cool movement. The crux starts with you hanging parallel to the floor on an ok crimp and a bad pinch. You shove off hard with yer feet, cut loose the pinch and stab waaay out for a flat ledge. If you stick it, it leaves you in a semi-iron-cross position with your feet dangling (whereat you match as quickly as you can). Powerful move, but i got it first try. Now if i can just remember how...

18.2.8

Thought i'd mark down that i went to the rockgym yesterday. Definitely not a real inspiring workout, as i've been down with the flu since last wed. or so, but i got a few burns in. i am getting to that special point, though, where my conviction that i need to be back in the irongym is more than just an intellectual ackowledgement, but is a physical demand. That my forearms are now the strongest muscles in my body is not necessarily a tribute to my forearm strength. Plus i'm gonna have shoulder arthritis if i don't get 'em stronger; i've just gotten used to my left shoulder trying to pop out of socket when i latch anything sorta iron-cross style.

Happy V-Day to me

Today i woke up with some brand of bronchitis/ upper r.i., and i skipped all my classes including my first chemistry exam. i felt like bland poopy-doody. Yet somehow skipping all my classes energized me. i watersealed all the stone in my bathroom, caulked the baseboards, and took a characteristically not-terribly-restful nap. Then i went climbing. At first it was very much as though i had an ocean sloshing about in my skull. But i couldn't leave cuz i didn't want another three consecutive off-days. Thought maybe even some easy climbing would get the ol' blood flowing and improve my general outlook on life. But i didn't do any easy climbing. i meandered upstairs and fell in with some muscley ripped tattooed guys and taught them what it looks like to climb. Or, if it wasn't quite that dramatic, i did send their project piece first try, and dropped off to a bewildered look that asks, "How does someone that fat and pasty pull that hard?" Ended up hanging with another couple o' guys-- one of whom was right about my level, and the other was seriously good. This first guy was working a v3 i'd been projecting for several weeks. It's as hard as a v3 gets. He finally linked it, and i sent right behind him. That is one good feeling. There just ain't anything like working some hard proj with an amped posse.

11.2.8

It's, what?-- mondayish. Lessee here... last i weighed (on wed. it was) i was 198.6lbs. After a three day rest from climbing i went in semi-fresh for a laid back session today. De ja vous flashed a thin v3 for a warmup, and then had a pretty strong day of it. Didn't send much else worth talking about, but i was pulling hard on some really nice problems. Being just a few pounds lighter has a strange, near-miraculous effect on what i can hang from. Also, going in sans raging tendon injuries has a generally positive effect. Funny, but i was sticking stuff i nearly knew i was gonna fall off of when i first glanced at it. That's a real nice sort o' surprise. So if losing 3 or 4 lbs. has that kind of return, i wonder what i could climb if i dropped 15 or 20. Just gotta learn to live on protein bars and cereal. To je vsetko

Fatty indeed....

Hee heee... i got it, yesseree Bob! went in yesterday and figured The Move out, but didn't have the juice left. did, however, hook up with some other guys and under great peer pressure sent a v3 onsight, and then a different 4(ish) after three of four tries. Today i was bored between classes and thought i'd see what happened, so i stared at it for a few minutes, gave it a warmup try, then sent it. 'bout kissed that finish hold.

3.2.8

Well now. Tomorrow (mon.) will see me with three contiguous days of barely adulterated rest. Le's jus' see how 'em crankers 'n' pullers feel afta' that there now, mm. i'm fatter and significantly less conditioned than i was at the beginning of the weekend, but i feel me a v4 comin' on; yassah, i do.

my own sickness

No, i didn't send, thank you very much. But i do have bilateral bicep tendonitis. So for therapy, i went back in today for two days in a row. my hands are definitely strong enough, but i just can't lock it off with the agony in my biceps. It's like fire. But convincing myself that i need rest is like convincing an anorexic that she's not a fat cow. On the plus side, i have in the meantime sent a whole bouquet of cool 3s, and i'm pretty confident that if i can take the next two days off, i can send that 4. And it's a legitimate 4. Ibuprofen makes me happy, but it does not make me strong.

At the end of aforementioned Thurs. workout i started working a tricky v3, but didn't send because i couldn't get my hands to stay shut 'round the dinosaur egg sloper before the final move. Today i went in and sent it for a warmup. Fun climb. Then i gave 5 or six burns to a v4. i think i finally had the crux (final) move worked out. Dig the complication: the second to last hold is a bad layback crimp for the left hand maybe 18 inches above yer right. Feet are way out left on bad holds to keep tension on that left hand. For The Move, you paste yer left foot way up high-- about eight feet high in fact, rock up as high on it as possible, and jump up and out as it's an overhang. If you stick the final jug, your right hand has moved about four feet. Anyhow, i set up for that throw, got my feet up, and on a whim, i glanced down to make sure i could still see the Earth. Lo, and there was a six year old kid lying on the damned crash pad staring up at my ass with his head exactly where i was planning to chaotically jam my heels shortly-- just kinda kickin' it smiling up at me. Being the humanitarian that i am, instead of going for it, i hung there for a sec taking it in and then yelled at him. Presumeably i was fierce enough, 'cuz he darted. i dropped and looked about me incredulously at the relatively large group watching me who'd done absolutely nothing about a kid spontaneously deciding to get a tan in the obvious ground-zero of a 200 lb. walrus dangling from on high.

But i will send on mon. God allowing. i was there for almost two hours. That makes a good workout.

24.1.8

Snowboarding was enlightening. And refreshing. i climbed on Tues. and Thurs. It was so bad on Tues. that i didn't really count it as a workout, so i went back yesterday. Yesterday was better. i pulled down some hard routeage, and i feel like i can seriously start projecting v4 again. i just gotta get back in the irongym, but i can't seem to find any motivation. Instead, i'm sitting here on my off day feeling sorry for myself. i have this recurring daydream of what it'd be like to have a workout partner. Hell, i'd settle for your basic run-of-the-mill friend. i think i need more than a long weekend: i think i need a long move.

14/1/8

Catchup again. weighed in at 202.4 lbs. today. went climbing today and sat. and probably also the thurs. before. i don't think i've gained much weight-- or rather, i haven't gained any weight. i think i've just converted some more muscle weight to fat. At any rate, between thurs. and now i sent four project v3s. At least two of those were on the very hard end of 3. i think i'm getting close to 4 again, strength-wise after the tendon damage. But i'm definitely seeing the effects of a weak core and upper arms. i can latch onto stuff that i can't pull through. i've got some kind of stupid mental block about hauling m' arse back into the iron gym. i have got to, but it's almost a painful prospect. we need some encouragement on this end. Maybe a snowboarding trip to Wolf Creek'd do the trick... hmmm

5.1.8

Today i did nothing. Nuh. Theeng. Nada. Yesterday, however, as well as the day before, i went climbing. It convinced me of two things. Or rather, it convinced me of at least two things. That is to say, i'll start out with two things i was convinced of, and if i feel like it, or if it just seems somehow appropriate, i'll add in more things, which i might very well find i have also been convinced of. And i will do so without apology. First, i am actually as fat as i was afraid i might be. Incredible how gravity takes an extra handful of kilos and runs with it. There was significantly more gravity in that climbing gym than i remembered.

Second, rest is terribly useful-- maybe as useful as all those training rags, and books, and gurus make it out to be. In spite of the extra gravity, i was pulling on stuff i couldn't pull on just before we left for vacation.

Third, the wrong kind of rest is no so bueno. After less than two weeks off my forearms are sore-- as in, it-hurts-to-click-on-the-mouse sore; as in shifting-gears-(while-beneficial)-might-just-finish-off-a-tendon sore.

Fourth, sitting on my ass for 14 hours a day and drinking hard liquor in available free moments turns out to be the wrong kind of rest.

At any rate, the gym had a comp on friday, so there's lots of fun new routes up, and they bought a ton of new plastic for it. It's eerie how if you climb enough you start recognizing the same holds reused on different routes. New holds are our friends.

Regreso

Lessee here... two weeks of sitting on my butt doing nothing more strenuous than breathing is drawing to an end. i'm consoling myself with the thought that my finger and bicep tendons have had some serious down-time to knit. Now if i can lose the 5 or so lbs. i've certainly packed on, i may just be back in business. Must..find... motivation...

17.12.7

Clomb again today. Wasn't precisely inspiring, but it was way better than the last few times out. Before i hurt this finger, i was regularly flashing v3. Now i just can't seem to get back to strength. But today i was moderately strong. Hit a bunch of 2 and then strung three v3s in a row, although i'd already done 'em all. i think part of it is i'm hitting a mental block. i haven't felt 100% for a long while now, and i think i go in expecting not to feel strong. i think taking a coupl'a weeks off for travelling and then getting back in the regular gym some will be huge. i'm trying to learn more about periodizing and just how much rest i actually need. Never have been very good at that. Taking my big, chunky butt climbing at project intensity as often as Fred Nicole does just sho' ain't working for me.

8.12.7

Three weeks; three days-- who's counting? i clomb a coupl'a evenings ago with James for to avoid putting the gun in my mouth for a bit longer. And i do hafta say that three off days did me a lotta good. i'm still going to take some weeks off (starting hopefully now), but i was going insane and needed real bad to go pull the walls down. Had to take it kinda easy on my finger still, and i think i've probably gained 4 or 5 lbs. in my few days off, but i snagged a bunch o' routes for feeling like a sluggard. Very good workout in spite of the fact that i probably set back my healtime a little further. i'd bought a shiny new bottle of brandy on my way home frome school, and i was contemplating another evening of sitting here feeling tired and crappy in front of this damned monitor drinking, and when it all washed out, blowing out a finger tendon sounded healthier and more enjoyable. i am gonna start back in the irongym, but i've gotta be in the right frame of mind for it-- it's gonna be a li'l depressing till i've got a few weeks in it.

Hope yer meet has gone well.

3.12.7

i believe i've ushered in some serious weeks off from climbing with today's sub-mediocrity. Haven't actually succumbed to any serious new injuries (thank Heaven), but i've been stagnant for a while now. Keep taking a day or two off in between sessions thinking eventually i'll see another positive slope; but it ain't happening. Then today i glopped off of a v3 i've been projecting for several weeks, fell 4 or 5 times on the starting moves of a v2 i flashed a few days ago, got shut down on another v3 i've tried a few times, and finished the session off by falling off of a v1. The tendonitis in my right bicep is mostly gone, but has moved to my left arm instead. i think i'm gonna quit beating myself up for 3 or 4 weeks, and concentrate on getting my whole body strong again in the irongym. That might even leave me enough time to start up running and riding again. This kind of intense stagnation tends to break me and send me into self-destruction mode. i'm going to make some effort to avoid that this time 'round. Suggestions for a good workout?

29.11.07

i'm back in the climbgym finally. After basically two full weeks off, i went in on Tues. and again today. Very interesting sessions. The nagging pain in my finger is largely gone (although i'm still eschewing any locked-down finger nail crimps on my left hand) and the bicep tendonitis is gone insofar as i can tell. But i have about zero endurance. Very odd how it's going. i went in and sat under a v2 that'd thrown me maybe 5 times on tues., and i stared at it for a few seconds today. Sent it as soon as i could tighten my shoes without breathing hard. Then i spent some time and worked a v3 with a couple other guys and finally sent that; but i was outta juice by the third burn. Very odd, that. i sent cuz i wired it in my head and outclimbed the burn, but it was strange how fast the burn came. Then i got a couple of 2s i'd done before, and a new unrated that'll probably clock in at 2+ or 3-. i just haven't felt anywhere near 100% in a long time, and my head hasn't been totally there either. i feel a long way off of sending v5, but who knows?

Also i bought "King Lines" today, and i highly recommend it for some amazing climbing. It's inspired me to drop 20 or 30 lbs.

23.11.07

Little catchup here. Tonight i went in and climbed a bit. Mostly just to keep the joints warmed up. Felt kinda weak. Finger didn't bug me much, but i just didn't feel very great. Last night i went in to the irongym for one of the most uninspired workouts i've done in a long time. At any rate, i did some shrugs, rows, and bench. In fact, i'm kinda sore today, so i'm glad i took it real easy. i need to get back into it. Also got a couple of really good runs in the last week. i think i'll feel better if i can just ever catch up on sleep.

17.11.7 Downward Spiral

Done clumb on on thurs. evening, and it was kinda bad. Did snag a v3 and a "v2" that'd bucked me the previous 7 or 8 tries. That's a fun problem. But my right bicep is no longer resorting to vengeful sorties of tendonitis; she's threatening to secede from the union. i'm crimping in my right hand at about 50%, and the tendon pulley in my left middle finger didn't even like pumping up a blood pressure cuff yesterday. i'm going to take about two weeks off from anything like hard pulling, and see if that's enough time to heal. Presently, there ain't no way i'm gunna tag a 5 'fore January. If i can heal in two weeks back to nearly 100%, i think i can pull it off. As it is, i'm going further in the hole every time i climb. i'm hoping i can use the time productively and lose some weight on the bike and running. i went in and shopped Orbea bikes yesterday. Them's some pretty bicycles. Think i'm gonna go for an Ora. Anyhow, 15 Nov. is the last day i climbed. That means i'm off 'till about the 29th. It's the weight room and the trail for me.