Oddity

Funniest thing. Kinda wandered to the climbing gym today, 'cuz i ended up doing nothing at all yesterday, and i wanted to move. But i went in with really low expectations. Stretched really good and warmed up for a long time on the auto-belays and traversing. Did some pullups. i got a 5.11, but i kinda felt stale and frayed still. Wasn't sure i would even try any bouldering. Then i saw this guy climb a problem that looked int'resting. So i scoped it, and it was a v5. i thought it looked possible, but not so much for today. i threw to the first move, and it was easier than i expected. i botched the feet going to the second move. i threw again, and botched it. Then i stuck the move, and just kept climbing 'til i could see the finish hold. So i skipped the next hold and jumped. And it stuck. A v5 in three tries.

Then i thought i'd see what'd happen on another v5 i'd gotten shut down on a week ago. Horrible pinch problem, and i hadn't been able to do the second move. Today i swung into it, and nearly flashed that sucka'; only the tape rolled off my finger when i stuck the finish crimp, and i popped. Took the tape off and sent next try.

Then i felt like i must be on a roll, so i started working another 5 on the boulder. All sloper problem, and i was flailing on a high move. So i threw in with a group o' lads working a v4 next to it, and i thought it looked mighty doable. So i flashed it. Then i melted off that 5 several more times. i was about to give up, when this feller asked me why i didn't use this huge rail on the far left of the line. i totally had not noticed that the hold was on, and i had one of those light bulb moments. Sent next try after maybe 9 or 10 burns. And the topout turned out to be the worst part of the climb. i was already fried, but i got up there and there was a couple of tiny chips on this super-steep (and very high) slab. i got to this certain point where i was heel-hooked and melting off of sketchy micros 14 ft off the deck, and i was like you either jump and maybe you won't fracture anything, or you finish this thing. i haven't been that freaked on a climb in a very long time. i literally couldn't look down, 'cuz i knew i'd lose it.

Heehee! Finishes like that are what it's all about. You got one rep left--and that's it. That's a workout.