Hangboard #8

Right: So i might could'a' used an extra day. This was not a wash of a workout; but it could've gone better in a few key bits.

WUJ:  -15:  Fine.

Large Open:
1:  +30 (same):  No fail, but hard.
2:  +45 (+5):  Odd. i think my foot touched down before the buzzer, but hard to call that a fail. Not bad.

F 2,3:
1:  -35 (+5):  Big ol' fail) on the last two. Untaped f4 just prior. I'm not sure if i was slipping on the remaining tape, or was feeling the skin tearing where i'd untaped.
2:  -25 (same):  Ugh. Really failed on the last three, although the last one wasn't a bad attempt. this was where i really felt the frayed tendons creaking, and was wishing for an extra day of healing.

SemiClosed:
1:  -15 (same):  No fail.
2:  BW (+>5):  Failed on the last 3. Not horrible.

F 2,3,4:
1:  -5 (same):  No fail.
2:  +10 (+5):  No fail (!!!) That's a propa' gain.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -35 (same):  Failed on r6 and not r7. Had to rechalk in there.
2:  -20 (+5):  Made the first three. Failed the last three, but kept the pressure on. Hardhard.

Sloper:
1:  +25 (same):  Really tired for this. Failed last 3. Kinda demoralizing.
2:  +40 (+5):  Failed really on the last 1.2 reps. Weird.That was a good set.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -55 (+5):  Failed last 2.5 reps. Not sure what drove me to put 5lb more on, but it worked out just fine.
2:  -45 (same):  Failed on the last 2 for sure. Not bad. After the set before, I was truly shocked.

So: no really big gains, some some gains nonetheless. Now for the last session of the season... :)

Hangboard #7

Another good one here. Some serious gains and some plateaus--the difference of which make for a net gain. I can definitely tell a difference when i take three days off and when i take two. Seems like it might be worth it to take the extra day about every other session. Weighed in pre-workout at 200.0lbs.

This time i had the two days off. Skin was certainly not healed, and i still felt some fraying, but i saw some very happy gains, notwithstanding.

WUJ:  -15. check.

Large Open:
1:  +30 (+5):  No fail.
2:  +40 (+5):  Ugh! Failed very end of the last two reps.

F 2,3:
1:  -40 (same):  No fail.
2:  -25 (+5):  NO FAIL!!! This was torturous happy sauce.

SemiClosed:
1:  -15 (+5):  No fail.
2:  -5 (same):  Better. Failed last 2 reps.

F 2,3,4:
1:  -5 (+20):  Last minute decision on the weight, and it worked out mighty fine. No fail. Big gain.
2:  +5 (+10):  Haaaard last rep. i think, honestly, i dropped my feet 'fore the timer beeped. Homing in on a limit here. Time to start pushing it.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -35 (same):  Failed on the last rep. Way betta'. 2 reps better.
2:  -25 (same):  Failed last 2.5 r. That's half a rep better.

Sloper:
1:  +25 (+5):  Really failed last 2.5.
2:  +35 (+5):  Good. Failed last 1.5. Same as last sesh, but 5 lbs heavier.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -60 (same):  Better. Failed last 2 reps instead of the last 3.
2:  -45 (same):  Again, better. Last 2 reps really.

It's exciting that there could be more gains ahead even this season. Once again, i'm looking really forward to taking this to the climbs. Yank n Yard is coming up soon. :)

Hangboard #6

This was better. i think. Rained a bunch today, so it was a mite sultry out there. But fairly cool. Also i took four days off to heal, and that added something, methinks. Weighed in clothed and shod, without a harness right at 200lbs. That's gordo.

WUJ:  -15:  fine. Only taped f3 and 4 today. Worked out real nice.

Large Open:
1:  +25 (+5):  No fail. To clarify prior confusion, i took f2 to the first dimple.
2:  +35 (+5):  happyjuice. no fail. That'd be a tidy PR.

F 2,3 Pocket:
1:  -40 (same):  No fail. better.
2:  -30 (Um -5, sorta):  no fail. I'm taking that as an uptick. Failed last time i tried this at the end, and failed miserably when i took it to -25 last go. This was hard.

SemiClosed:
1:  -20 (same):  No fail. Easy up to the last rep. that one was kin'a hard.
2:  -5 (+5):  Pretty hefty fail on the last 3 reps. Good effort.

F 2,3,4:
1:  -25 (+5):  No fail. Really pretty easy. Increase.
2:  -5 (+10):  No fail!! Cannot explain that one. Increase.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -35 (+5):  Failed on last 3 reps. Feelin' the humidity on these.
2:  -25 (same):  Big ol' fail last 3 reps. Again, blamin' the humidity.

Sloper:
1:  +20 (+20):  Odd. failed on last rep absolutely. That's prolly the biggest jump i've made.
2:  +30 (+5):  Good. failed last rep and change-- 'bout where i failed with 5# less last time.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -60 (same):  fail last 3 reps. Humid.
2:  -45 (+5):  Failed last 3. Not horrible. figured if i could only hold on for 3ish reps i might as well make 'em heavier.

This was a good workout. Showed me how much difference a li'l extra friction makes. Still seeing some very happy gains.

Hangboard #5

So 5 of 9 done. I'd have a hard time calling this a good workout. Really pretty perfect weather. But i think i ate too much, or the wrong thing. Felt like vomiting through most of it. Did make a few gains, but incurred some regressions as well. I guess the pasta was a bit heavier than i expected, and i should'a' remembered the Tums first.

WUJ:  -15:  Fine.

Large Open:
1:  +20 (same):  No fail, but hard. Seriously wondering if i'm putting my hands in the same place. For this set i put my middle finger on the outer dimple. Maybe i should look that up.
2:  +30 (same):  Kinda failed at the end. Moved my hands inward a bit. Not sure.

F 2,3:
1:  -40 (same):  Failed last sec last rep--mostly tape slip i think. Only had f3,4 taped this time.
2:  -25 (+5):  Massive fail. Just really tired. think i could'a used another day of rest here. Not healed. Ended up moving to the next larger pocket to finish. Really awful.

SemiClosed:
1:  -20 (same):  No fail, which is an improvement.
2:  -10 (same):  Failed last 2 seconds--which, again, is an improvement. Did fight for it though.

F 2,3,4:
1:  -30 (same):  No fail. Pretty easy. From the last workout i should have taken this up, but i think i was gun shy after feeling stale on the grips prior.
2:  -15 (+5):  No fail. ...Dunno; but i'm happy. :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -40 (same):  No fail. Again, happiness. Bit cooler today which helps a ton on this grip.
2:  -25 (+5):  Failed last 1.5 reps. Really not bad.

Sloper:
1:  BW:  Can't seem to get past this. There's just something about that 7th rep. Failed at the last second, which probably is an improvement.
2:  +25 (+5);  Failed on the last rep. Not bad.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -60 (same):  End of the last rep, which i believe is better.
2:  -50 (same):  Failed last two reps--still a li'l bit better i think.

I'd like to chalk this one up as a poor workout; but honestly i made some gains. Just had an acid stomach and can't help but feel like i would have gone better if i'd an extra day of rest. Who knows? i was way psyched to do this going in--been looking forward to it. Then i came home and ate too much. Absurd!

Ah well: i think i have a job as a routesetter at the college. That improves morale. :)

Hangboard #4

Odd one. I'd have said up front that i really wasn't feeling it tonight. Kinda tired going out there. Turned out to be an ok workout, and gains were made; but i lost on a few. Ah well. Taped all 5 fingers, 'cuz i'm used to f 2 and 5 dragging on some of the grips, but it ain't necessary anymore.

WUJ:  -15:  Fine.

Large Open:
1:  +20 (up 5#):  No fail. Nice start.
2:  +30 (up 5#):  Failed last 2.5 reps. f5 tape was slipping. Don't tape this.

F 2,3:
1:  -40 (same):  No fail.
2:  -30 (up 5#):  Came off last second last rep. Not bad.

SemiClosed:
1:  -20 (up 5#):  Failed with tape slipping last couple.
2:  -10 (same):  Failed, really the last 3 reps. Don't know. Li'l humid maybe?

F 2,3,4:
1:  -30 (+5):  Huh. No fail. Not too bad.
2:  -20 (+5):  No fail! Weird!

Wide Pinch:
1:  -40 (+5):  Failed last 2 reps, and couldn't figure out why. I thought i was keeping weight the same at -45, but i counted wrong. That made me feel a li'l bit better.
2:  -30 (+5):  Rad. Failed last rep...greasing off at the end. Not too bad. That puts me tidily past where i was in May.

Sloper:
1:  BW (same):  Failed last rep.
2:  +15 (up 5#):  No fail!?? i cannot explain this. It's like i just don't have enough chalk on for that seventh rep, but six is no problem. Totally mental i guess.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -60 (+5):  Failed last rep. whew. Made the executive decision to up it 5lbs at the last second, and i'm not at all sure it was a good one.
2:  -50 (+5):  Hm. Failed last 3ish. Bad way to end, but that does include 7 reps on this one. Really wasn't that bad.

Again, gains were made here.  Can't help but think it might have been more profound if i'd summoned a li'l more amperage. Horses seem to like Yo-Yo Ma better than the heavier stuff, but i might have to dismiss their opinion next go round.

Hangboard # 3

This was a good workout. (Happened yesterday, 9/12/15). Think i've maybe knocked the rust off, and'm back to making some gains. Super psyched about that.

WUJ:  -15:  Check.

Large Open:
1:  +15:  this is a 5# incr. No fail.
2:  +25:  Again 5# up. No fail :))

F 2,3:
1:  -40:  No fail. Here i went to the shallowest pocket. 'Bout nailed the weight on this. Hard.
2:  -35:  No fail!! This hurt. Very hard.

SemiClosed:
1:  -25:  Same here. no fail. i think i untaped f4.
2:  -10: This was a 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. This was happy sauce. Very surprised (and happy) to get this after the beating i took on the 2,3 pocket.

F 2,3,4:
1:  -35:  Again, went the shallowest pocket here. And again, felt like the weight was pretty right on. No fail.
2:  -25:  No fail!! Hard last rep, but this was encouraging. :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -45:  5# incr. no fail. This has me back where i left off in May, with maybe more gas in the tank.
2:  -35:  Again, a 5# incr. failed last 3 secs of the last rep. :)

Sloper:
1:  BW:  This was a >5# incr. Failed last 2 reps.
2:  +10:  5# incr. Failed at the end of last rep. Odd. Back to where i was in May. good one.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -65:  'Nuther 5# incr. No fail >))
2:  -55:  Again, 5# up. Failed last second last rep. That'd be a pretty solid PR. :)

Very good workout.

Differn't Deal (Hangboard #2)

Seriously helped to be rested and to have done no prior climbing for this go. This was a good session. Weighed in post workout at just over 200lbs, so no help there.

WUJ:  -15:  Better.

Large Open:
1:  +10:  Better. No fail.
2:  +20:  No fail. fairly hard. Had f2 pretaped for these, and that helped a bit. Puts me within range of where i left off in May.

F3,4:
1:  -25:  No fail. Meant to go to -20, but it worked out. Felt i was slipping on f4 tape, so i untaped after.
2:  -15:  No fail, which is way betta than last round. Very painful on f4 without tape. Thinkin' i should go to the shallower pocket next time. This feels like it digs into my tendons.

SemiClosed:
1:  -25:  No fail!! F3 to outer dimple.
2:  -15:  Failed at the end of the last rep. Happy! That puts me pretty much at where i stopped in May.

F2,3,4:
1:  BW:  No fail. very painful on f2. Taped f2 after that.
2:  +10:  Failed on the last two reps. Less painful, but slippy. Again, i'm thinkin' i'll go to a shallower pocket.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -50:  No fail! Almost back to baseline!
2:  -40:  Failed last second of last rep. :/

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Failed end of last rep.
2:  +5:  No fail. Huh. Neeeearly back..

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -70:  No fail!! That looks to be an uptick from May.
2:  -60:  And that looks to be a PR. Actually failed on the last rep, then found that i'd programmed 7 reps into the last set. Good times.

Good workout. I gather it's a bit cooler now than mid-May, so that's helping my cause. But i surely ain't any lighter. Lookin' at a potential for some nice gains here.

Remediation

Gotta say this was a weird season. 'Fact, i'm not quite sure what season i'm on here. Was reading back through posts and i finished campusing last season on June 10th. . . . .  Almost 3 months later i'm beginning hangboarding again.

Reckon that last "sending" bit was a smidge protracted by a month or two, even though i don't think i went and projected on rock at all; and only got on real rock maybe thrice.

Anyhow, i did get in some pretty decent PE work once i figured out how at the gym: Since there really aren't any useful boulder problems, i linked up some fairly short but stout toprope problems. Worked out really pretty nicely.

I did, though, finally call it, and restarted a new season. It was getting far enough along that i was loath to take two full weeks off; and i do hope i don't regret that. So far, i've got in all the ARCing (2 weeks of it) and just did the first hangboard sesh tonight. I could tell it'd been too long, 'cuz i couldn't remember e.g. taping sequence, etc. and my hands felt--frayed. A bad sign for the first session. But i did boulder this afternoon, and  probably went a bit hard. I lost some ground to last season's end, which i'd expect; but it wasn't horrible. Of note, i haven't picked up a weight in a terribly long time. Quit deadlifting about when i got into campusing last season.

Here's hangboard #1 (which now would've happened yesterday: 9/5/15).

WUJ: -15:  Check. hands're tired.

Large Open:
1:  +10:  Ok, but i taped f2,5 afterward. pretty painful.
2:  +10:  These were 7.5 and 17.5# regressions respectively. Failed anyhow 'cuz taped slipped.

F2,3 Pocket:
1:  -25:  Failed 'cuz of tape slip
2:  -20:  Failed last two r, although i untaped f4. this made it very painful

SemiClosed:
1:  -40:  No fail. Pretty solid.
2:  -30:  No fail. Pretty hard at the end. Very encouraging.

F2,3,4:
1:  BW:  total fail last 2 r. Hurtin' here.
2:  -10:  Made for a huge regression, but no fail. I'm OK starting back. Skin was really hurting.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -65:  No fail. Nice feeling. Not too far off of where I left last time.
2:  -55:  No fail! That's what i got for the first set last go round.

Sloper:
1:  -15:  No fail, but jus' berly though. I'll take it :)
2:  -10:  No fail. Whew! Hard last one.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -85:  Hard last, but no fail.
2:  -75:  Very hard, but no fail!  :))

Yeah. Not a bad start. Gotta take time to heal the skin, and i'm gun' hafta get my head back into training, but i'm not so far off that it's hopeless. Could see some gains this season.