Sunday, January 8, 2012

Sports Psychology

Went climbing today with the singular goal of not being in the house for a while in order to regain a modicum of sanity. But i hadn't climbed since thursday (if a brutha could consider that climbing), so the mitts'd had a li'l time to re-knit. Paid off, 'cuz i got that v6 i'd been working on last session. Very hard to say if it's really v6, but i'm taking it. Kind of a one move problem, but the one move took me a whole buncha burns to 1) do, then 2) repeat/link through. Big pull-through from under a roof with the right hand on a pinch and the left foot way back under the roof toe-hooking the start. When i finally got it from the crux, it felt fairly easy, but then i could not repeat it for some reason. Finally i'd nearly given up on it 'cuz my hand was exhausted from the pinch, and i got distracted by some hoser waiting on a climb behind me, and suddenly i'd linked through the move. i snapped back to, and realized it was very important that i not fall on the finish moves. Kinda trippy, really. Funny how failing can be purely in yer head.

So to celebrate, i went upstairs to the cave, and got a v5 second try. That, i'm fairly confident, was not seriously a 5. Fatboy doesn't second-try 5s. But it sho was a nice feeling. And i was needing a nice feeling after flailing through the last week. Beautiful way to start the week.

2 comments:

Pappa G said...

Nice session. I've got to find my happy zen spot and get my arse moving again.

c said...

Yeah, that happens to me way too rarely. But i'll still recommend it. And locking out a double with 350 is not exactly a bad day in the gym.