Hemarthrosis

So i ended up with an extended, lazy weekend. i ended up doing just almost nothing at all. But i did climb on the way outta town today. i've had a headache and a near-anaphylactic reaction to the whole world going on for the prior 4 days or so. Today was the first day i felt vaguely human. so i thought i'd put it to the test. Actually felt pretty strong. i got that v5 i nurly got on thursday. That was very encouraging. One of those sends (and, in the end, sessions) where it didn't matter so much whether my footwork sucked or that all the holds were crappy crimps; i left finger divots pressed in the plastic and there was no way i was gonna fall. Very cool feeling. Then i went up and worked on the project. i've developed an approach to the thing. i start at the final crux (which is this really big, very precise throw under the ceiling) and make sure my head and hands can handle that ('cuz if they aren't there for the end, what's the point of starting it?) Then i start working backwards from that point. There was a single move before that point that i had not yet stuck. And honestly i wasn't sure i was strong enough to stick it. But i stuck the crux to the finish 'til i felt good about that bit. then i started working that middle piece: directional, not-too-savory left hand high; no left foot; horrible right foot; then the right hand moves from an ankle-high crimp to an above-the-head flat pinch. Every single time i stick that pinch, my feet cut and i rock off the holds before i can swing back in to the footholds. But i stuck it today. It was like my right hand somehow got stronger since thursday. And i linked through to the finish. i didn't manage to link from the start. Too tired. But i got the wonkiest, hardest bit of climbing. Now i absolutely know it'll go. i'm super psyched to get in fresh and on. i mean, sending that piece of climbing was this huge victory. i hopped off the finish pumping my fist like i'd sent. And for sure, that piece of climbing was very stiff v5.

Somewhere along the way i also managed to hurt my middle finger. i thought maybe i had bled into the joint because it was taped. But i think i damaged a collateral ligament. i'm hoping that heals by thursday, 'cuz i found a really good-looking place to boulder down here, and i brought the crash pad with me. Right then.