Sunday, August 31, 2014

HB #6, or whatever

Today i did yesterday's HB workout. That is because yesterday i went climbing with a friend, and we worked some routes. And my hands felt very much like arthritic poo. Beautiful place, Cascade; but a li'l harder "warmup" than i was wanting to do for hangboardin'.

SO: got 'er done this evening.

Set 1:  Warm-up Jug:  -10#:  Harder today. Still easy. Feelin' yesterday.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -20#:  Kept this the same today in view of ensuing increases for coming sets. Hard at the last rep, but not very hard. Increase next time.

Set 3:  Medium edge (semi-closed):  -20#:  This was a 5# increase. Definitely harder, but no fail. :)

Set 4:  Medium pinch:  -25#:  Hardish, but no fail. Increase.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Failed last rep. Very hard. Again, definitely feeling yesterday. Hurt from the first rep, so i think it went surprisingly well.

Set 6:  Large open hand edge:  -10#:  Hard. Failed last 2 reps. Mostly painful. Need to tape F2 prox to  DIP.

Set 7:  Wide pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed last 2 reps. Suffering for yesterday.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -5#:  Very hard, but about right. Failed last few secs of last rep.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -30#:  Hard, but no fail. If i were feelin' my oats next time, could increase.

This was a happily good workout considering yesterday's intensity. One HB workout to go. We'll see if i can actually pull it off on the correct day. At any rate, i'm loving this hangboarding deal. Definitely getting stronger.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Ancillary Day

I've been recording the "supportive" workouts as more of a side note on hangboard days. But today's was rugged enough to deserve its own post.

Went in for some ARCing, and it was hard. Ended up doing 30 mins, but i actually peeled several times. Very tired.

Then i tried some bouldering, and that was not great.

Then i ventured into the irongym. Seems like my last iron workout was 2 months (+/-) ago. First did a tabata workout that went surprisingly well. That's 20 secs/workout with 10 secs of rest in between for 4 different workouts each set, then do it again for a total of 4 mins of pain. Did pullups, hanging straight leg raises, dips, and decline crunches. For set 1 i got 17 pullups, 18 SLRs, i think 17 dips, and about 18ish crunches. Set 2 got 12 pullups, i think 11 SLRs, maybe 10 or 11 dips, and around 14 crunches. Good ol' sweaty time.

Then i did the warmup for my deadlift workout: 21 floor touches, 21 straight leg deads with just the bar, 12 with 145# straight leg, 8 with 245# straight leg, 5 with 345# regular, all from a deficit with 25# plates. Didn't venture up to the usual 445#. No need for paraplegia. Prolly gunna pay for what i did do just plenty. But i have fa sho lost me some back strength. Good workout, notwithstanding.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

HB #5 (or, technically, 6)

Yesterday i went to the gym and did a 20 min ARC session, and then bouldered some new routes. Kinda encouraging 'cuz i can tell my hands are stronger. Did manage to keep it reasonably light.

Today was [what i'm calling] HB workout numma 5.

Set 1:  Warmup Jug:  -10#:  Hmmm...easy, but a li'l stale.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -20#:  This was a 5# increase from last time. Harder, but still fairly easy. And that's encouraging.

Set 3:  Medium Edge (SemiClosed):  -25#:  Again, a 5# increase. Definitely harder--maybe even hard; but no fail.

Set 4:  Medium Pinch:  -30#:  Left this the same, and it felt easier than last time. Li'l hard at the end, but no fail. Could probably increase here. Huh.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Very hard. No fail, but close.

Set 6:  Large open-hand Edge:  -10#:  No increase here. And, again, i took F2 to the inner dimple, and this time from the first rep. This felt very hard. No fail though.

Set 7:  Wide Pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed on the last rep. Still better'n the last workout a smidge.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -whatever the plate pin weighs:  This was a 10# increase--maybe a little hubris here. Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -30#:  5# increase. Had to dig deep, but didn't fail.

Very good workout over all-- way better than i had a right to expect. Increased my resistance in 4 of 9 grips.

Weighed in before at 200.2#, clothes, shoes, and a steak sandwich included. EI scale yesterday said i'm at 15.8% body fat. That's down from 17.5%, so i'll take it as a gain.

Monday, August 25, 2014

Week 2ish (Sun. HB #5)

Right. So this one was supposed to happen on Saturday, but didn't 'cuz we'd stayed up the night before with a sick horse. And that worked out ok, as i'd done too hard a "recovery" day on Thurs anyhow.  Didn't want to do the workout again last night 'cuz i'd been putting up fencing all day yesterday, and my hand hurt going into it-- wasn't sure how it would go. But i'm glad i did it, and it was a really encouraging workout.

Set 1:  Warmup Jug:  -10#:  Easy.

Set 2:  F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -25#:  Felt easy. Failed on these on Wednesday. This time i did 'em at night, and the not-90deg coolness made a huge difference. Felt like i could'a' gone harder.

Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed):  -30#:  Little hard, but no fail. Could increase.

Set 4:  Medium Pinch:  -30#:  Hard at the end, but no fail.

Set 5:  F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -40#:  Very hard, but no fail. Failed miserably on these on Wed with -45#, but on a whim i bumped the resistance up, and this was right on. Still kinda cut into my pinkie cuticles, so i'ma hafta figure out what's up and sand it down.

Set 6:  Large open-hand edge:  -10#:  Same weight, but i took F2 to the inner dimple 'stead of F3, and that definitely made it harder. No fail though.

Set 7:  Wide pinch:  -45#:  Very hard. Failed at the very end of the last two reps. That's still a bump upward from the last coupla workouts.

Set 8:  Sloper:  -10#:  Li'l hard on the last rep. Should increase.

Set 9:  F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -35#:  Fairly easy, and with a smile. These felt way hard last time, so this was a happy increase.

Takeaways: First of all, it's striking how much difference 10 or 15 degrees of calor'll change things.

Second, it's striking how some very sore, blistered, worn out hands from hammering with a post driver didn't affect m' hangboarding. At all. Almost odd, really.

Finally, this was a good workout. Dug pretty deep, but it was there to be mined. This was fer sure a step upward.

Friday, August 22, 2014

Thurs (Zwischenzug)

So then, following direction in The Manual, i thought i could pull off an easy day of ARCing yesterday with the idea that i'd rest up today to hang again tomorrow. And i did ARC--20+ mins.

Then i just hit every boulder problem in the place, ran out and started making up hard problems, and working 'em with some friends. I suspect that will prove to have been a terrible idea. I might have hurt my R ring finger, but i know i ground my hands to meatloaf. Miiiiight not be the best workout tomorrow. But we'll see. Still felt good to pull hard, even if it was an act of undisciplined self-indulgence.

Maybe i'll go fishing tomorrow.

Today, at least, is a guaranteed day of sloth and healing.

Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Hangboard and some HIIT

To catch up, Monday la hija y yo did our first Tabata workout. We got our booties kicked.

Before that, i did a sprint workout with the ol' HR monitor. That kicked my butt too. Did a 6ish minute warmup in the 140s, then set the timer and sprinted 20secs on with 10 secs rest for 6 intervals, then cooled down on the way back home. Short, sweet, and it drained me like the outta shape cow i am.

So-- the Tabata: It's 20 secs of exercise, hard as you can go, followed by 10 secs of rest, then next exercise. Four exercises in all, finish and repeat the whole thing for-- i think the whole session lasts 4mins in all.

Workouts were pullups, hanging leg raises, pushups, and hanging crunches (with the gravity boots).

First set of p'lups went swimmingly: got maybe 17. HLRs hurt pretty much from the get go as i've not activated my abdominal wall in many moons. Think i got 15 or so. Pushups were predictably embarrassing, but i got 18 or so. Hanging crunches... i looked like a quivering sloth. I could do these by grabbing my thighs and cheating. Don't really know why, cuz i've done em before. But i felt nearly paralyzed.

Second set: Pullups were off. I was having trouble remembering my identity or why i was doing any of this by now. Think i summoned 5 or 6 before i just hung there staring helplessly at the bar. HLRs...i think i managed some. Sad. Pushups, i think i might have been crying--don't remember-- but i got a few. Hanging Crunches were-- if they could get more amusing than the first set, they did. I did get some blood to my skull. And i may have cheated out a few.

I think i'd be skinnier if i did this workout frequently.

Yesterday (Tues) i climbed with the kids. So i didn't get a lotta climbing done. That was ok, 'cuz i slept like poo the night prior, and felt just as i'd slept. Did pull down a few decent boulder problems. This was supposed to be a warmup for a hangboard sesh, but i was not feeling it. Didn't happen. On the bright side, Annie led her first couple o' climbs like a champ. Chick's got some skeelz.

Did do the hangboard workout today. As above, this was supposed to happen yesterday, but only because i've slid off schedule by a day. Yesterday woulda' put me two days out from the last session, and that honestly wouldn't have been enough rest. So i'm ok with having put it off. Better sesh today than it'd otherwise have been yesterday.

Set 1: Warm-up Jug:  -10:  Easy peasy

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket:  -25: This was up from -30# last time. Felt hard on last rep, but no fail.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed):  -30:  Hard on last rep but no fail. Consider increasing next time.

Set 4: Medium Pinch:  -30:  Whole set i felt i could go heavier, felt easy, but then i failed on the last rep 'cuz it was so dang hot, and i sweated off.

Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket:  -45:  Failed on the last 3 reps.

Set 6: Large open-hand edge:  -10:  Felt tired, but also very hot, and i dechalked.

Set 7: Wide pinch:  -45:  Very hot. Failed on last 4 reps. That's in spite of taking an extra 5# off.

Set 8: Sloper:  -10: Here i increased by 5#. Felt very hard. Failed on last 2 reps, again mostly 'cuz of the heat.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket:  -35:  Here again i increased by 5 # from last sesh. Very hard, and i failed on last 2 reps; but again, prolly cuz of the sweat factor. Otherwise i don't think i'd'a failed.

Overall a decent session. I have a fan i want to install on the wall. I do think that'd help--'specially for daytime sessions. A lotta these sets didn't feel hard as much as they felt impossible 'cuz of sweat. I'll probably keep my weights the same for the next session and see if it goes better if it's just not so hot. 'Bout getting weights reasonably dialed in.


Sunday, August 17, 2014

Hangin' On (session 3)

I still haven't managed to get a hangboard session in on the correct day. Was supposed to have done this workout yesterday, but just wasn't feelin' it. Worked out just fine: had a really good sesh of it; but i'd'a' like to have seen what she feels like to do the workouts 3 days apart 'stead o' 4. Next time p'r'aps.

Set 1: Warm up jug: -10#  No change here. Easy.

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -30#  This was a 5# increase (up from -35#). No fail, still felt easy. Could still go heavier next time.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#  Again, hard, but didn't fail. Might try -25# next time.

Set 4: Medium pinch: -30#  Added weight this time from -25#. Hard but no fail. Stick with that one more session, then back to -25#.

Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45#  Failed at the very hairy end of the last rep. Very hard. Felt 'bout right.

Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#  This time i moved outward to 3rd finger on middle dimple top edge. Harder but no fail.

Set 7: Wide pinch: -40#  Failed toward the middle of the last 3 reps. Very painful on the skin at the 4th MCP. Tape better next time. Otherwise 'bout right.

Set 8: Sloper: -15#  Easy 'til the chalk wore off.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#  Hardish, but no fail. Taped my pinkies better this time, and it helped.

Overall good workout. Still have some weights to dial, but this was a lot closer. Man, i only thought deadlifts were mental. Talking meself outta putting a toe down on the ground with 2ish seconds left in the rep and i can feel my skin tearing or slipping--- that's mental.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Mulligan (Wk 6ish)

After taking just over a week between my first two hangboard workouts, i'm calling a redo. I've gotten off track and schedule, but i'm gunna go ahead and not care. I was planning to post up about how lazy and low i've sunk in order to inspire me to get back to work; but instead i dragged me out to the barn and worked out.

Got my new hangboard up, and worked out on it tonight. Really good workout, and i'm actually psyched to hit it even harder. Got a timer for my phone that doesn't suck, and i tweaked the pulleys, and that went a long way toward alleviating the irritation factor. Also, i actually wrote on my workout during the rests, which is something i haven't done in years, and it kinda rocked. I'm gunna do that every time, methinks. That's really the reason i set up this blog and the other.

Right then-- the workout:

Set 1: warm up jug: -10#: Just fine

Set 2: F2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Didn't feel too hard. Coulda gone a li'l heavier.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#: This was hard, but i got 'em all.

Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Very hard. Failed on the last 2 sets.

Set 5: F3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Massive fail. Need to take off more weight. Also i think my tape was slipping off.

Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: No fail, but hard at the end.

Set 7: Wide pinch: -30# for r1-3, then -35#: Massive fail. Take off 40# next time.

Set 8: Sloper: -15#: Hard. Failed on last rep.

Set 9: F3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#: No fail, but hard. Pinkies hurt. Needed tape.

Of note, i didn't count the weight of my hanging pin for the weights. Probably weighs another 5ish #. Going to take a few more sessions to get my weights dialed, but this was a happy workout.

Saturday, August 9, 2014

Week 5 (hangboard wk 1)

So far this has not gone well. Was supposed to do my first hangboard workout last saturday, but i didn't get to. Did the first one on Tues, which shoulda been workout #2. Was supposed to do the third (or, in the case of having skipped the first, the second) workout yesterday; but i didn't. No time, minimal energy, and nowhere to warm up. This'll happen, but i might stretch it out an extra week to get all the workouts in. Based on the singular HB workout i've squeezed in so far, i  'spect this'll by far be the game-changing phase for me. Tuesday's workout destroyed my hands. Friggin' nuclear meltdown. Lemme see if i can accurately(ish) recount said for posterity.

The workout is 9 sets (each set being a different grip) of 6 reps. Each rep is a 10 sec hang with 5 secs' rest between--so there's really no time to rechalk or shake much between reps. 3 mins' rest between sets. Supposed to take weight off me with pulleys as needed in order to barely be able to finish each set.  I fully accomplished the barely-completing-each-set bit, but i definitely need to dial the weights i'm using. Fingers 2-4 are used (thumb not included), and i'll number 'em thus when needed for ease.

Set 1: warm up jug ---Got all these, BW

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket ---Think i took 35# off, and these were still sad.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi closed) ---Think i took 10 off for these, and it wain't enough: fail

Set 4: Medium pinch --- BW. Using the SoIll ironpalm for this, and it's not a good pinch. Got em though

Set 5: F 3,4 pocket --- Took off the 35# again. Not enough. Suck-ed

Set 6: Large open-hand edge --- Don't think i took weight off for these. The edge on my board needs sanding, and these took some flesh off

Set 7: Wide pinch --- Again on the IronPalm: Not a good pinch. Got em

Set 8: Sloper --- used the Metolius Similator. I think i thought i could get these without weight off, and i ended up failing before the end.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 pocket --- took off 35# or so. Hating life through these.


Main take-aways here: 1) i've already ordered a Trango RP board. It kinda amazes me that i have maybe 5 hangboards to select from, and i can't really find the appropriate holds for some basic hanging among them.
2) i gotta dial my weights in a bit better. This will be much easier when i can do my whole workout on one board instead of toggling, cuz i won't have to jack with my pulley system as much during rest intervals. 3) i gotta come up with a more efficient way of warming up. Had a huge lag time between the gym and my boards for this session, and that's not so bueno. Hopefully i'll have time to get some usable routes up on the Moon Wall.

And i hafta do this more often. i can see how this is the stuff that strong climbers are made from.

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Week 4 and a tri

i managed to fail on Thursday's enduro work. Went in to do my 2 30min sets of ARCing and got sucked into a bouldering session with a friend. Would have rather done the ARCing, but it was a fun break. i'm not gunna beat me up too bad for the sidestep.

So then i get a call on friday to do a sprint triathlon with a friend. 500y swim, 13mi bike, and 5K run. Hadn't been on a bike with any seriousness since last summer (and that was mountain biking), hadn't run even once since last October, and hadn't swam for 2+ years, so my expectations were low. He roped me in cuz he was doing it on a mt bike with only platform pedals; so i figured i wouldn't be alone off the podium.

But i ended up doing very very respectably: Got a 1:23:30ish overall.

Hair over 8mins on the swim, and i was just hoping i could stay in the vicinity of 10mins. So i averaged just over 48 sec 50s.  Very respectable for an elderly fat guy.

The bike truly shocked me, and made me glow. 13 miles, and i got it in 29mins and change. And i got stopped at the beginning waiting on a train, which tacked at least a minute onto my time. So i averaged somewhere around 27mph on the bike, and my rear derailleur was jacked and stuck. i mean, to put it into perspective, i was hoping (without knowing the course) that i could average around 20mph. Thirteen miles is over 20K (i.e. 12.4mi) and a fast time--even for the hardcore--for a 40K is breaking an hour; so i was on pace for a career highlight ride on no training at all. I'm gonna conjecture that the Lord nudged me up some of the hills with a fairly stiff tailwind. And i'm thankful.

The run went pretty much according to expectation. I was figuring on 10min miles, and i got it in just under 30mins. So i did do better than 10min miles, but only just.

At any rate, i was so flippin' ecstatic with how that went that i want to actually maybe train for tri again, and do some more soon. I can't help but feel like i coulda actually grabbed some podium if i'd have trained even a li'l bit within the last two years. Vamos a ver.