Week 5 (hangboard wk 1)

So far this has not gone well. Was supposed to do my first hangboard workout last saturday, but i didn't get to. Did the first one on Tues, which shoulda been workout #2. Was supposed to do the third (or, in the case of having skipped the first, the second) workout yesterday; but i didn't. No time, minimal energy, and nowhere to warm up. This'll happen, but i might stretch it out an extra week to get all the workouts in. Based on the singular HB workout i've squeezed in so far, i  'spect this'll by far be the game-changing phase for me. Tuesday's workout destroyed my hands. Friggin' nuclear meltdown. Lemme see if i can accurately(ish) recount said for posterity.

The workout is 9 sets (each set being a different grip) of 6 reps. Each rep is a 10 sec hang with 5 secs' rest between--so there's really no time to rechalk or shake much between reps. 3 mins' rest between sets. Supposed to take weight off me with pulleys as needed in order to barely be able to finish each set.  I fully accomplished the barely-completing-each-set bit, but i definitely need to dial the weights i'm using. Fingers 2-4 are used (thumb not included), and i'll number 'em thus when needed for ease.

Set 1: warm up jug ---Got all these, BW

Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket ---Think i took 35# off, and these were still sad.

Set 3: Medium edge (semi closed) ---Think i took 10 off for these, and it wain't enough: fail

Set 4: Medium pinch --- BW. Using the SoIll ironpalm for this, and it's not a good pinch. Got em though

Set 5: F 3,4 pocket --- Took off the 35# again. Not enough. Suck-ed

Set 6: Large open-hand edge --- Don't think i took weight off for these. The edge on my board needs sanding, and these took some flesh off

Set 7: Wide pinch --- Again on the IronPalm: Not a good pinch. Got em

Set 8: Sloper --- used the Metolius Similator. I think i thought i could get these without weight off, and i ended up failing before the end.

Set 9: F 3,4,5 pocket --- took off 35# or so. Hating life through these.


Main take-aways here: 1) i've already ordered a Trango RP board. It kinda amazes me that i have maybe 5 hangboards to select from, and i can't really find the appropriate holds for some basic hanging among them.
2) i gotta dial my weights in a bit better. This will be much easier when i can do my whole workout on one board instead of toggling, cuz i won't have to jack with my pulley system as much during rest intervals. 3) i gotta come up with a more efficient way of warming up. Had a huge lag time between the gym and my boards for this session, and that's not so bueno. Hopefully i'll have time to get some usable routes up on the Moon Wall.

And i hafta do this more often. i can see how this is the stuff that strong climbers are made from.