i think i ended up doing a total of one of the deload workouts last week. Mostly i slept poorly, ate poorly, and generally had no time. Friday the gym had an informal comp, but i didn't get to compete. i ran in after work to finish a route that'd been haunting me for a few days, but they'd already replaced everything and had all the bouldering areas closed for the comp. So i went in yesterday, and then again today with the eldest. It's a li'l overwhelming to go in just after they've replaced all the routes at the same time. It's like being a crack addict in a huge warehouse full o' free crack. It's hard to focus on where to start, so i flutter around like a butterfly kinda piddling with projects. Today was a little higher-quality pulling. The first begotten went with, so i was forced to take some lengthy rests--which i think worked out to be a good thing. i'd work my proj for 30 or 40 secs, then she'd need me to watch her for 30 or 40 burns. m' hands still feel arthritic, but it's 'cuz i pulled down some hardcore schmidt, and not 'cuz i pinballed to too many routes. Nothing has a rating on it yet, but i got some stiff problems out of the way. Be interesting to see what they call some of 'em. And i came out of it with a tic-list that's got me amped. i felt the texture on the finish hold of a problem that i'd venture so far as to say might have a 6 on it when the ratings get doled. i think i'll have that one on the next fresh day.
And 5/5/5 week ensues, inexorable as a freight train. i think i bumped my maxes up in everything but bench. It's gunna suck pow'rful, but i 'spect i'll be more of a man on the other side of it.
2 comments:
so what does it do to your psyche when you guess a v6 and it rates a v2? I could be on a stiff v0 and be like "dang if that don't go for a 12!".
Ha, yeah. That is a real fear when there're no ratings on. 'Cuz i've been in that situation...i'll be like oh yeah that was hard! and it'll come out with a 3 on it. But this would be a case of some very serious sandbagging. This was an all sloper, core-tension route. Not one solid, positive move on the thing. But it's short...maybe four moves, so it might get a lower grade cuz o that. But it ain't a 3. ;-)
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