Sunday, December 28, 2014

Hangboard #3

Nothing in between workouts. Job's blossoming its true black-hole-colored, soul-vacuuming nature, and there hasn't been a minute to squeeze in any extra workouts. But by the mercy of the Lord, i have gotten the hangborading in. And it's again pretty encouraging. Weighed in fully clothed at 199.0 (a lb down from Thurs).

Warmup Jug: -15:  Peachy. Could go up here, but i had several increases this time round, and i figured i'd be feeling it by the end.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -15:  Little burn, but not bad. (This was a 5# bump).
2:  -5:  Still not hard. Could increase again. :)

F3,4 Pocket:
1:  -45:  Very solid, no fail. (Another 5# increase).
2:  -35:  Not hard. Increase again. :)

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -20:  This was a 7.5# bump from last time, and was harder. No fail.
2:  -10:  5# bump from last time. Hard here, but no fail. Could increase a skosh here, but it'll feel way harder if i bump the grips before it.

F2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -12.5:  2.5# increase here, and definitely harder. Better untaped.
2:  -2.5:  Very hard. Failed last two reps.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Untaped. Very hard. Failed last two reps.
2:  -45:  Hardhard. Failed at the end of last 3 reps. I like these.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Failed at the end of the last 2 reps.
2:  -pin:  Ver hard, but no fail. Can't explain that. But that's a victory after bumping the amperage on four grips before it.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -85:  Very hard, but no fail.
2:  -75:  Failed at the end of the last rep. These felt harder than the last workout. Think it was colder today.

Overall a very pleasing workout. Still making fairly big gains. That's week 1 of a four week period, so i'm looking at cementing some pretty nice gains. And i've gotta find time to run. Striking how much difference 2.5# can make on a hold, and i could drop several of those.

Thursday, December 25, 2014

Hangboard #2 (...a smidge late)

On Monday i did some deadlifting. Miserable workout. Got in at prime time, and every highschool in the area was working out on every conceivable piece of equipment. Ended up dragging a bar into an aisle to lift. And i forgot my belt. Same basic workout from a deficit, but i missed with 445. Also did a set of 25 pullups, but somebody had the chain belt so i couldn't add weight. Then i left, cuz i was beyond irritated. Eh well-- it was a workout, and my back was sore.

Got off target on hangboarding by a couple o' days 'cuz of work; but i did get 'er in today. Weighed in at 200.0lbs today fully clothed, but without a harness. One thing to say for taking 5 days 'twixt workouts instead of 3 is i was fully healed. Went up on several grips today from last time. That's a shot in the arm.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Heavy breakfast and a 15 second warmup weighing in.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -20:  Burned, but not hard.
2:  -10:  Not too hard. Didn't shake out here, and that helped. Could go up next time.

F3,4 Pocket:
1:  -50:  Hard at the end, but no fail. This was a 5# increase. Taped F4 up front and it helped.
2:  -40:  Again, a 5# increase. No fail. Could bump it up again.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -27.5:  Ok. Found some 2.5# plates, and thought i'd creep up, but coulda gone bigger.
2:  -15:  Really not bad still. Could increase again next time.

F2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -15:  Hard. Take off the F4 tape next time. This was a 5# increase.
2:  -5:  Harder, but no fail. Taking the tape off helped. Again a 5# bump :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Failed last second of last rep. Taking the tape off helped. Definitely stronger on these.
2:  -45:  Failed at the end of the last 3 reps. Much better. Of note, i didn't use the top of the grip at all for these-- just pure pinch.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.
2:  -pin:  Huh. Failed on the last rep. This was a step down. Think i was feeling the increases on the other grips.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -85:  Hard, no fail.
2:  -75:  Hard. Failed last second of last rep. This was a 5# increase. Much better. Think my hands are getting better at being in this configuration. Seemed to help to not shake out. Pinkies have to sorta unlock to shake out, and they don't like re-locking.

Really satisfying workout here, even if i was a li'l bummed to have to bump it back a coupla days. I can actually imagine adding weight to me for some of these grips for this season.

Saturday, December 20, 2014

"Endurance" ...and moving right along-

Fairly easy to sum up this last week of ARCing. It was supposed to be three days in a row of it--pretty brutal week for a fat guy; but i got a stomach bug Tues night, got off work way late on Mon and Wed night, so i managed to squish one night of it in on Thurs. Did get 3 sets of 30 mins with (almost exactly) 5 mins of rest between. And even then the li'l kids that run the climbing wall were so anxious to get home after probably 2 solid hours of "work" that they booted me about 10 secs before the end of my last set. And to make it all even funnier, i didn't do ironwork on Mon 'cuz i figured it'd ruin me for the enduro sets. Meh. What're ya gunna do? If i'd'a' been meant to be a good climber, i'd have been born somewhere beside Pancake Flats. Good thing i did that Hangboardy workout last weekend.

Anyhow: did manage to get in today's Hangboard workout, which is the official #1 (in spite of apparently having a second round of the gut wyrm). And it went quite well, i'd say.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Fine

Large Open Hand:
1:  -20:  Tired still. F3 to the first dimple, which smalleneth the hold a bit.
2:  -10:  Better. This time i did it with no shake outs, so i wasn't struggling to get back to the right spot on time between reps.

F3,4 Pocket:
1:  -55:  Ok, but painful on the rings.
2:  -45:  Ok again, but painful. Think i need to tape f4. And increase next time.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -30:  F3 to the first dimple (2nd rail). Definitely made it harder.
2:  -20:  Again F3 to the dimple. Very hard, but no fail. Only concern is i'm doing more of an open half-pad meathook than a proper crimp. But i really didn't feel warm enough to hyperextend my DIPs.

F2,3,4 pocket:
1:  -20:  Ok.
2:  -10:  Hardish at the end. Increase.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -55:  Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2:  -45:  Took my pinkie tape off 'twixt set 1 and 2 and it helped. Total fail on the last rep, but i really didn't fail up to that point. Gotta take the tape off sooner.

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Fail last rep.  :)
2:  BW:  Failed in the last second of the last rep.  :))

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -85:  Didn't exactly fail...
2:  -80:  Again, i didn't really fail, but i'm not sure i'm grabbing these right. It's a very awkward, weird grip, and it works my hands in a way i think they've ne'er been worked before. But also the holds kinda force my thumbs up against an orthogonal surface, so i tended to externally rotate my upper arms to lock down on--really the whole board. I don't think that's seriously cheating (seeing as i'm still taking 80+lbs off'n my lardmass), but it's a strange grip. I do foresee making some sizable gains on this one.

I was very pleased (and a li'l surprised) by this workout. For one, i really haven't lost any strength from the last season. But also i felt like i'd eaten an ice pick this morning, and i really didn't think i'd pull out a formidable workout. Very good start, and it should be a ton easier to get these workouts in than the ARCing. Won't have to bank on non-climber college punks allowing me to work out.

Sunday, December 14, 2014

MakeShift (Pre-Hangboarding Hangboarding)

There was no getting out of doors for the weekend for "outdoor mileage". And the idiot gym closes at 12:00 on saturdays. So i did a li'l a priori hangboarding yesterday and today to see how the ol' strength is compared to where i left off. And it wasn't too bad, honestly. I'm doing the intermediate routine which is a bit different. Sets and reps are shorter and there're 8 different grips 'stead of 9-- it trades the medium pinch and F3,4,5 pocket for a narrow pinch. But you do 2 sets of everything, so the time under tension is almost 1.5 mins longer, and the rests are shorter 'twixt reps. The first set of everything is 7 reps; the second set is 6 reps. All the reps are 7 secs with 3 secs' rest between. It's 3 mins of rest between sets.

As above, there're 2 sets of everything (excepting the warmup jug), and one's s'posed to start with a "baseline" weight, then add 10# for set 2. This was largely experimental, so i fudged on some of the starting weights so's not to die on set 2. Failed on surprisingly few of 'em. Also i did this split in approximately half between saturday and sunday. Got through the semi-crimp on saturday, then repeated it today for the starting exercise.

Warmup Jug:  -15: Easy.

Large Open Hand:
1:  -25:  Felt tired, but this was easy
2:  -10:  Tired. No fail.

F3,4 pocket:
1:  -55:  Hard.
2:  -45:  Hard on last rep. No fail. This was 5# off of where i stopped last season. Not bad.

Semi-closed Crimp:
1:  -30:  Right.
2:  -20:  Hard on last rep. No fail. [As above, i repeated this today for an opener after a short warmup.]

F2,3,4 2-pad pocket:
1:  -20
2:  -10:  Very hard at the end. No fail.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -50:  Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2:  -45:  Failed at the end of the last 2 reps. :))

Sloper:
1:  -10:  Hard. No fail.
2:  -Pin:  Hmm...took off the pinkie tape and this really didn't feel bad. No fail.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -70:  This was experimental--never tried these before. And they sucked hard. Massive fail.
2:  -80:  I got most of 'em with this weight, but i still failed on 3 or 4 sets. Very hard to get the hang of these. Very weird grip. Very hard to make me lift my feet off the ground without thinking i was just gunna fall straight onto my coccyx. This could be the money grip for the season. Lotta room for improvement here. Fortunately i haven't even officially started hangboarding yet this season, so i haven't lost any time trying to dial weights.

Over all, this was a very encouraging workout. I'm really looking forward to getting stronger. This'll be the last week of endurance, and it's looking to be a long, hard, daunting one. Vamos a ver.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

Deep Fried

Tuesday i went in for abs and dips, etc, but i got roped into climbing, and honestly just tore it up there. Really much too good a day of climbing. Ended up working some spicy routage when i wasn't supposed to be climbing at all. I consider that ok, cuz there're only two weeks of endurance training on this season-- so i figure the denser the better, yeah?

Anyhow, climbed a while then hit the iron for a very flaccid sad session.

Hanging SLRs: Think i got 3 sets of 20 with much pain.

Dips: 3 x 15.

May have just left after this. Felt like poo. Bad workout, but at least it's on the books.

Was supposed to do ARC sesh # 2 on Wednesday, but i ended up working late and missed the chance. Might have worked out for the best, cuz i did yesterday (Thurs) instead, and i looked like Rocky after his first week of workouts. Two 35 min sets with 5 or 10 mins of rest between. First set went very well--felt strong. Second set i felt like i was dragging lead on a chain after about 10 minutes. And i guess i was: weighed in at 199 last night.

Gunna hafta get the diet under control, methinks.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

ARC sesh 1 with iron

Interesting day of it yesterday. Did the first ARC session of the season, which was two 30min sets. Really didn't go badly. Think i actually felt stronger than usual on these, 'specially on the steep bits. Maybe last week's DB rows are paying off. Anyhow: markedly improved start compared to last season. Very encouraging.

Then (after a couple hours' rest babysitting) i hit the irongym for some back work. Had very low expectations for deads, mostly 'cuz i wasn't sure if i'd be able to hold the bar. But it went very well.

Deficit Deads: 21 floor touches, 21 with the bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Locked out both singles without too much trouble.

Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. That last set was hard.

Pullups: 25 x BW. Last rep was everything in the tank. 2 x 8 x BW+25, 2 x 5 x BW+45. Also hard. These were affected by the climbing.

DB Rows: 12 x 80 ea arm, 2 x 8 x 90 ea arm.

Straight Arm Cable Presses: Think i got up to 80# for a few sets of 6 or 8. These are still experimental. Used an 18" swivel bar and it seemed to help to start with my feet way back so i was sorta leaning into the cable. These are weird, but they sure feel like they're working my lats all the way to my spine.

Overall very good workout considering the hour of climbing that went before.

Tack on: Sat i did a sprint workout-- 6 x 20 sprints on a 10 sec interval.

Saturday, December 6, 2014

New Season

Fired up a new season of climbing yesterday. It was a start. It was not a good session.

S'posed to be "Outdoor Mileage", which should mock up the intensity and continuity of ARCing--except out of doors. But i couldn't get outside for the precip, so i did my 8 moderates in the gym. And i got my butt kicked. Everything in me felt tired, and i fell off of 5.9s and .10s.

For one, i didn't do a proper warmup, and just jumped on a route, and i got a mega-crazy flash pump that i couldn't seem to shake. But i also just felt .... i dunno .... stale. Arms felt dead, and i'm definitely not back to healed from the earlier workouts in the week. This has been the problem i've had in the past with trying to keep up the lifting whilst training to climb. They're both quite demanding on the muscle fiber front, and i find it demotivating to hit the iron for an intentionally sub-par workout. So i either go in and tear it down, and my climbing suffers, or i get tired of sucking and just stop lifting.

That's silly of course. There must be a happy medium. There must be because my climbing continues to suffer from my lack of discipline. So here's the plan: i'm gunna try to keep the heavy, gains-producing lifting up through the relatively shortened endurance period, and then through the strength phase this time 'round. The idea is that if i can coordinate 'em reasonably, my endurance form can suffer a li'l without seriously failing the goal (i.e. to build endurance), and the heavy lifting shouldn't affect the hangboarding at all. Then i can taper the lifting to a minimum during the power phase (when, hopefully, it'll have done me some good) and i won't have had a months-long lapse in lifting between ending and beginning. The trick here is to get set to kinda suck wind and feel a bit stale during my endurance workouts.

Really shouldn't be too hard, 'cuz i'm switching to the "intermediate" training plan for this season. That amounts to a shortened enduro phase and a lengthened strength and power phase. I'm super amped about experimenting with that, but it also (i'm hoping) suits my goal route for the coming season. Gunna get Three Roofs at Golf. Solid .12a. Yessiree Bob.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Off Season

Nearing (read: crawling) to the end of a two-week "off season". That kinda amuses me: a two week off-season. But i wanna climb...kinda tweakin' here. Li'l hard to stay offa the walls. I'm trying to use the time constructively. Did--i think-- my third back workout on Monday, and finally got in some pushers and abs yesterday.

Mon 12/1/14

Deficit Deads: 21 x bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Second single with 445 i didn't quite lock, cuz the bar was unraveling. Something useful 'bout a bar with knurls.

Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. Really not that bad.

Pullups: 25 x BW, 10 x BW +25, 2 x 5 x BW +45. Got a li'l spicy on the last set.

DB Rows: 2 x 10 (ea arm) x 80, 2 x 6 x 90. Felt just fine.

Straight Arm Presses: Some weight for several sets. Experimenting with these-- i wanna get better control for Campusing. We'll see if these translate well.

Tues 12/2/14

Hanging SLRs: 4 x 20 no added weight. Actually made it through these, which was pleasantly surprising.

Dips: 4 x 15 BW: These got kinda hard. Very outta shape in the ol' triceps.

Decline Crunches: I dunno...several.

Cable Presses: Kindof a warmup set-ish or two, then 10 x 100, then 5 x 120, then 2 x 3ish x 130. Again, these are experimental for future Campusing, and i had a high enough rack to work with, so i took these to almost full forward flexion before each rep-- so they were really more like a pull-through, or a cable muscle-up or some such. Tried also to keep the bar out on my finger tips. Again, we'll see how these translate.

Abs are sore today. Hopefully will get to fire up the climbing prog again on Saturday. Vamos a ver.