Fairly easy to sum up this last week of ARCing. It was supposed to be three days in a row of it--pretty brutal week for a fat guy; but i got a stomach bug Tues night, got off work way late on Mon and Wed night, so i managed to squish one night of it in on Thurs. Did get 3 sets of 30 mins with (almost exactly) 5 mins of rest between. And even then the li'l kids that run the climbing wall were so anxious to get home after probably 2 solid hours of "work" that they booted me about 10 secs before the end of my last set. And to make it all even funnier, i didn't do ironwork on Mon 'cuz i figured it'd ruin me for the enduro sets. Meh. What're ya gunna do? If i'd'a' been meant to be a good climber, i'd have been born somewhere beside Pancake Flats. Good thing i did that Hangboardy workout last weekend.
Anyhow: did manage to get in today's Hangboard workout, which is the official #1 (in spite of apparently having a second round of the gut wyrm). And it went quite well, i'd say.
Warmup Jug: -15: Fine
Large Open Hand:
1: -20: Tired still. F3 to the first dimple, which smalleneth the hold a bit.
2: -10: Better. This time i did it with no shake outs, so i wasn't struggling to get back to the right spot on time between reps.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -55: Ok, but painful on the rings.
2: -45: Ok again, but painful. Think i need to tape f4. And increase next time.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: F3 to the first dimple (2nd rail). Definitely made it harder.
2: -20: Again F3 to the dimple. Very hard, but no fail. Only concern is i'm doing more of an open half-pad meathook than a proper crimp. But i really didn't feel warm enough to hyperextend my DIPs.
F2,3,4 pocket:
1: -20: Ok.
2: -10: Hardish at the end. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2: -45: Took my pinkie tape off 'twixt set 1 and 2 and it helped. Total fail on the last rep, but i really didn't fail up to that point. Gotta take the tape off sooner.
Sloper:
1: -5: Fail last rep. :)
2: BW: Failed in the last second of the last rep. :))
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Didn't exactly fail...
2: -80: Again, i didn't really fail, but i'm not sure i'm grabbing these right. It's a very awkward, weird grip, and it works my hands in a way i think they've ne'er been worked before. But also the holds kinda force my thumbs up against an orthogonal surface, so i tended to externally rotate my upper arms to lock down on--really the whole board. I don't think that's seriously cheating (seeing as i'm still taking 80+lbs off'n my lardmass), but it's a strange grip. I do foresee making some sizable gains on this one.
I was very pleased (and a li'l surprised) by this workout. For one, i really haven't lost any strength from the last season. But also i felt like i'd eaten an ice pick this morning, and i really didn't think i'd pull out a formidable workout. Very good start, and it should be a ton easier to get these workouts in than the ARCing. Won't have to bank on non-climber college punks allowing me to work out.
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