Limit Boulder 2 and Campus #3

Looks like i didn't get around to posting on the second Limit Boulder session--woulda been Friday, 5/29. Honestly not a session, although i'm still hashing out problems. Really don't have The Problem worked out yet. So i mostly piddled around with some stuff; but it was a good workout. Do think i'm'a hafta take some decent shoes down with me for the next round. the Miuras have no toes left, and that ain't cutting it on tiny feet.

Did Campus #3 tonight. Went out super tired from going to bed way late the 3 or 4 nights prior, and totally knew it was gunna be a waste of time. But it wasn't. Was yet another very large step forward (to my surprise and general smileyness). And i weighed in dressed at 200.6#, which made it more satisfying still, 'cuz that has me about a pound heavier than last time.

XL)

basic ladders.

L)

This time i did a basic ladder, 1-3-5-7-M B.

Straight to 1-4-6.
1:  Failed B first go.
2:  Failed leading L, stuck  leading R.
3:  Same. Failed L, stuck it R.
4:  There! Stuck it L. Skipped with R to move to smaller rungs.

M)

1-4M:  Stuck this with both hands leading first go. Not very hard :)

1-4-5M
1:  Stuck L leading first try!! Missed with R. Hmm
2:  This time i missed with L, but stuck with R. i'll take it!

S)

1-2M: Stuck L and dabbed for the match. Better! Li'l dab on both with R.

1-3:  Touched it easily, but didn't stick. This'll go shortly, methinks.

1-2M:  Dabbed for it B. This is getting easier.

M)

Went back to the medium rungs here and tried some doubles. Kindof a cool feeling, 'cuz i really couldn't even meaningfully hang from these 6 months ago. Jumped and double-clutched the 4th rung easily. Didn't get a solid double dyno, but it feels doable. Mighty fine workout.

Campus #2

Got campus sesh 2 in last night. Changed things up a bit with fairly spectacular results. Had very low expectations after Sunday's boulder session-- largely cuz i ended up just tearing me down. Went in yesterday to the climbgym for a warmup, and felt pretty tired to begin. But i think that worked out ok, 'cuz i didn't stick around too long to kill it bouldering. Did some easy arcing, and then ended up giving 3 or 4 tries to a limit problem. Was afraid i'd thrashed the crimpers, but it worked out to be a perfect warmup. Got home and did the usual p'lups, rows, dips and piddling on the hangboard. then to the Campus sticks.

XXL) Basic ladder, B hands leading.

XL) Skipped these :)

L)

1, 3B, 5, M. Jumped ahead here from last sesh. Just fine.

1, 4B, 5, M Real nice.

1, 4L, 6, M... STICK!! Felt fairly easy.
1, 4R, 6 Failed to stick 6, but got it second go. Happy. :)

M)

1, 3B, 4, M. Not easy leading L, but got it. Actually did feel pretty easy leading R.

1, 4, M: Ok, another mile of progress here! Did three sets of these with each hand leading. The first two sets i missed the match with L leading, but stuck the match R. Third set i was tired and missed the match with both hands. But i couldn't even stick the 4th rung with a lead hand 5 days ago. I can actually imagine making some progress on these over the next coupla weeks; 'specially if i can lose some weight.

S)

1, 2B, M. Did two sets of these with mat dabs for help. Getting tired here; but i'm not too far away from actually moving my tubby butt up the wall on these.

This was absolutely a shot in the arm... totally beyond expectation. I think it helped to cut some of the extraneous stuff out, like the XL rungs. But i was still up probably 3-4lbs from the last sesh (due to nearly constant grazing on garbage over the weekend), and i was still noticeably broken down from the bouldering sesh the few days prior. So however i look at it, this was a step upward. There is hope

Campus #1 and Limit(ish) boulder #1 [Season 3]

Got in campus session numma one on 5/21.  Ended up doing this on day 4 after hangboarding, 'stead of day 3, and it worked out just fine. Ah yeah: Went and did a "warmup boulder ladder" for it the day before, and got home late from church and didn't get to campus. Worked out very well, 'cuz i really needed that extra day to regenerate soft tissue. Had a pretty encouraging first campusing as a result.

Yesterday (5/24) got to go to Stone Age for some "limit bouldering". I honestly got sidetracked just doing problems warming up, and didn't really get around to the "limit" bit. But i'm okay with that. It was fun, and i tore down some tendon without injury. Almost overwhelming to climb at a wall where the routes make some kind of sense and are fun. Ended up tearing down 3 v5s in a coupla tries per (which is prolly a PR for me) and an handful of 4s. Actually had a hard time finding an appropriate limit problem. Really hafta have your antennae up for the right sequence--'specially in a huge gym with nearly-unlimited potentials and holds. Did do some heavy damage to the crux of a v7 (which i think would go) but it wasn't a good limit problem, interestingly. Actually think i'll be able to make a better go of the limit stuff on my home wall. Kinda looking forward to it next time. And in spite of clocking in at a rotund 200#, i felt pretty monstrous strong at it. Super encouraging! The hangboarding payeth off! Now to get on with losing a stone or so...

Back to the campus sesh:

Gunna include the warmup on this one for future reference. Did some pullups (13 usually), rows on the rings, dips on the rings; then played around on my wall and hangboard to wake up the piggies. Taped up F 3&4 to begin, which i eventually stripped--although it didn't hurt anything.

XXL) Did a coupla basic ladders and felt mighty good. Then to max ladders.

XL)

1, 3, 4, match B. No problem.

1, 4, 5, match B. Pretty easy. Didn't try 1,4,6. Wanted to save it for the smaller rungs.

L)

1, 3, 4, match B. Ok.

1, 3, 5, match B. Again, got these both hands leading easily first go. Pretty encouraging.

1, 4, 5 match B. Easy.

1: 1, 4, 6: Touched the 6th rung with both hands, but didn't get over the top.

2: 1, 4, 6:  This time i spun the wrong way off my post hand. i think i'll have this soon.

3:  1, 4, 6:  Tried again 'cuz i don't know when to quit. Li'l stale.

M)

1, 3, 4 match B. Easy. This is where i worked up to last season, so definitely a shot in the arm to feel cozy on these first sesh in, 3.5 months later.

Tried 1, 4, 5 three or four time with each hand leading, but i couldn't quiiiiite stick 1, 4. That will go, and it'll be tidy progress.

S) Hung for a while on these. Was tired when i got to 'em, so i couldn't really move. But they don't feel nearly as intimidating as they did last season. That, by itself, is an uptick.

Good start. Session #2 comes tomorrow.

Hangboard #9 (Season 3)

Another fairly hot day to end hangboarding on. Can't say i made any really jaw-dropping progress from last time to today, but it went pretty well. Amazing how long 7 seconds can seem when you're maxed out and can feel your skin rending. And amazing how much difference 10 or so degrees of temp can make. Starting to understand why folks climb in the snow.

This time i taped F2 so's to save as many skin cells as possible. Worked for a while.

WUJ:  -15: Fine. Didn't drop my hands, and that makes a difference.

Large Open:
1:  +17.5: Same. No fail. Hot.
2:  +27.5: Same, 'cept i failed at the veeeery end of the last rep; so an improvement (if a small one).

F 2,3 Pocket:
1:  -10: Hot. Slippin', but no fail.
2:  BW: Started a hair late on the last two reps, but no fail-- so better. :)

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -20: Really failed last 3 or 4 reps. Taped was slipping. Untaped F2 after this one.
2:  -10: Whew! Failed last 3ish reps, but i forgot to clip in for the first one. Hurtin' here.

F 2,3,4:
1:  +15: This was a 5# incr. Sweating. Big ol' fail last 1.5 reps.
2:  +25: Again, 5# incr. Failed last 1.5 reps, but good 'til then.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -45: Same weight. Sorta failed at the very end. Really hot.
2:  -35: Same. Failed last 1.5 reps. Coulda used a rechalking here. Not bad really.

Sloper:
1:  BW: Failed last 1.5 reps. yeah.
2:  +10: Failed at the end of the last rep. Odd that. Made a point to blow on my hands and shake out between every rep, which seemed to help.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -70: Failed end of last rep.
2:  -60: This was a 5# regression. Still failed at the end, but it was better than last workout.

Easy to get hung up on the smallish changes from workout to workout; but i went back and looked at the first workout this season, and i added from 15 to 25+ lbs to every grip. To be fair, i'm almost 5# lighter now than i was then, but that's still pretty reasonable progress in under a month of training. Makes me wonder what could happen if i didn't take months in between strength sessions. I'd really like to flex some discipline and protract the sending season this time, and start over sooner. Might find i could crush stuff i can't really imagine just now.

Anyhow, enough hanging. It's on to Power! :))

Backwork and Hangboard #8

Interesting evening of it yesterday (5/14/15). Weighed in at 199.4 clothed, but pre-shoes and harness. Several variables were different, which seemed to affect things--mostly negatively. Honestly not bad workouts, but i felt way tired and the ten or so degrees' heat diff did bad things to friction. And stacking the hangboarding atop the deads really didn't work out well. Gunna hafta nix that idea for future workouts. Different hand muscles being taxed notwithstanding, my hands were not crisp or fresh. Also my skin is wearing thin-- this played heavily into the hangboard workout. 'S getting painful, and on some of these i really expected to fillet me a flapper 'fore the timer went off. No flappers yet. One more to go.

Enough whining. Progressive overload was achieved even if i didn't get any spectacular new highs. In fact, i ended up kinda sandbagging on the iron so's not to be overly trashed for hangs. And i increased the weight on hangs on almost every grip-- just ended up failing a lot. Which is generally the goal.

Deficit Deads:
21 floor touches
21 x the bar
12 x 145
8 x 245
5 x 345 (chalked here)
2 x 395 (No belt)
1 x 445 (Fairly easy)
Try with 495 (Stalled below my knees. Really not a great effort. Distracted)

G'Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175

P'lups;
26 x BW
2 x 8ish x +25 (think i got 9 on the 1st set)
2 x 5 x +45 (got 6 on the 2nd set. Don't feel like i've made gains here, but i prolly have, and no injuries or tendonitis so far. Hoping to go into Campusing a bit stronger than last time 'round.)

DB Rows:
10 x 95 (Stopped here 'cuz my hand were getting tired)

Later that day...

Warmup Jug:  -15. Great.

Large Open:
1:  +17.5.  Ugh. No fail. 2.5# incr.
2:  +27.5.  'Nother 2.5# incr. Failed at the end of the last rep. Feelin' those deads here.

F 3,4 Pocket:
1:  -10:  5# incr. Not exactly a fail, but painful.
2:  BW: Also a 5# incr. Failed very end of last rep! Not bad! But very painful. maybe tape f4? This cam mighty close to tearing my skin.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -20:  5# incr. Failed on last rep cuz f1 skin was peeling.
2:  -10:  Another 5# incr. Failed on last 2 reps. Definitely hotter and skin was failing. But this put me within 5# of where i was on the much larger part of the hold. Li'l bit amped about this.

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  +10:  5# incr. Still pretty easy.
2:  +20:  5# incr. Rad! No fail! :))

Wide Pinch:
1:  -45:  5# incr. Failed last second of last rep. Feelin' those deads on this un.
2;  -35:  2.5# incr. Failed last 2 reps with a massive fail on the last. :)
\
Sloper:
1:  BW: i think this is the only grip i didn't bump weight on. Failed on the last rep. That's an improvement!
2:  +10: Same again. Failed last rep about 1/2way through. Ok.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -70:  5# incr. Failed ind of last rep.
2:  -55:  5# incr. Big fail on the last 3 reps. Yeah...hands were not whole, and it was a li'l bit warmer. Bad combo for this grip.

Right: so mixed feelings after that un. But no denyin' i've made some solid gains this season. Goal for the next sesh is to not tear my skin. Also gunna start dieting again this week.

Hangboard #7

Seven down, two to go. This was a good workout. Honestly didn't feel like going out there and doing it, but it was a blessedly cool night-- actually made some tasty gains.

Warmup Jug:  -15. peachy.

Large Open Hand:
1:  +15:  No fail, but Bleh! Hard.
2:  +25:  No fail! That's an incr. Untaped f5 for this 'un, which helped. Tips feel glassy.

[retape f5]

F 3,4 Pocket:
1:  -15:  No fail...which makes an incr.
2:  -5:  No fail. Painful, but ok. Might bump 'er up next time.

SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -25:  5# incr. No fail. Untaped f5 for this. Bit hard. :)
2:  -15:  'Nother 5# incr. !!No Fail!!! Yeahhaw!

[Retape 5]

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  +5:  this was a 10# incr. Not too bad. :)
2:  +15:  No fail. Again. Increase. :)

Wide Pinch:
1:  -50:  10# incr there. Sting 'n' a burn but no fail.
2:  -37.5:  2.5# incr. Failed propa' on that last rep.

Sloper:
1:  BW:  >5# incr. Failed on the last 2 reps. Hmm.
2:  +10:  Same as last time. Failed halfway through the last rep.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -75:  This was a 2.5# incr. Just fine.
2:  -60:  5# incr here. Can't make sense of it, but no fail! Woot!! Increase again...

Getting within range on some of these grips that i could actually see a real translation to the campus board or the rock. Very encouraging workout tonight. Even though i felt like my guts were coming apart, a very encouraging workout. Seriously pleased.

Hangboard #6 and Back Work

Yesterday went to the irongym for some back torture. Definitely making some headway on the Deads.

5/7/15 backwork

Deficit Deads:
Floor touches x 21
21 x the bar
12 x 145 SL
8 x 245 SL
5 or 6 x 345 (chalked for those)
2 x 395 (put the Inzer on for these)
2 x 445
1 x 465

Megahappy to lock that last one.

Good Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135
12 x 155
12 x 175

P'lups:
26 x BW
10 x +25
2 x 5ish x +45 (These felt hard. Not sure i made progress here, but not too bad.)

DB rows:
10 or so x 95
8 x 105
6 x 110 (was pretty much cashed here)

Good Un

Today was more hangboardin'. Also a good un,

5/8/15 Hangboard #6

WUJ:  -15. Just fine.

Large Open Hand:
1:  +15:  5# incr. Ok--hardish. No fail.
2:  +25:  Also 5 # incr. Failed at the end of last 2 reps. Definitely feeling yesterday's Deads.

F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15:  Went ahead and untaped f4 for these. Slipped at the very end of last rep. Way better.
2:  -5:  Forgot to clip in on rep 1, so it was BW. Painful, but no fail, so this was a move upwards. Preemptively untaped f 3 and 4, and taped f5.


SemiClosed Crimp:
1:  -30:  5# incr. Started at the outer edge o' the rail. No fail.
2:  -20:  5# incr. Untaped f5 for this one. Failed at the last second of last rep.

[retaped f5]

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -5:  technically this wasn't an incr, except it felt way easy.
2:  +10: this was a 5# incr. No fail! reasonably easy.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -60:  Ok...no fail.
2:  -40:  5# incr. Rad. Failed in the last second of the last rep. :)

Sloper:
1:  -5:  Failed at the very very end.
2:  +10: Failed in last second of last rep. 5# incr. BIG increase.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -77.5. Same. OK.
2;  -65:  2.5# incr, but NO FAIL!!! >))

Saw some nice increases in spite of yesterday's teardown. Very encouraging. 3 mo' hangboardies to go.

Hangboard #5

This was a pretty good one. Rained all day today, and it was much cooler than Saturday. Also i didn't do any misplaced climbing or otherwise-subversive workouts prior, so i felt pretty healed. Only thing is i didn't really warm up well enough. But it went off quite satisfactorily, notwithstanding.

Warmup Jug:  -15:  Real easy

Large Open:
1:  +10:  Hard at the end, but no fail.
2:  +20:  Hung for some extra time on the last rep. No fail. Increase :)

F 3,4 Pocket:
1:  -15:  Failed last 2 reps. Felt the tape was slipping off. Untaped f4 after this un.
2:  -5:  Big fails last 3 reps. Very painful on f5--> gotta tape this next time.

Semi-Closed Crimp:
1:  -35:  i kinda sandbagged 'cuz i was using a smaller part of the rail [rings at the outside dimple], but it was way too easy, so i moved my pinkies out as far as they'd go.
2:  -25:  Still too easy. Again, moved out to the edge of the rail and did two extra reps. :) Increase.

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -5:  Hard at the end, no fail.
2:  +5:  Painful on f2. No fail.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -60:  2.5# incr. Hard on the last rep. No fail.
2:  -45:  5# incr. Failed on the last rep. Excellent!

Sloper;
1:  -5:  5# incr. Failed end of last rep.
2:  +5:  5# incr.  Failed end of last 2 reps. Not bad.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -77.5:  5# incr. No fail--hard.
2:  -67.5:  5# incr. Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Just not bad!

This was a shot in the arm. Especially the semi-crimp. I know the cool weather helped a lot, but i added a bit of weight today.

Ketchup: Hangboard #3, 4, and Back Work

Haven't had the chance to write in a bit, but have been basically doing the workouts. Did hangboard #3 on 4/25 (on schedule), but went to Santa Fe on the 28th and was completely outta pocket for the remainder of the week. So i didn't work out that day, but climbed at StoneAge on the 29th in lieu of hangboarding. Actually bouldered 'til i was failing on jugs: maybe not the best alternative, 'cuz i felt it today, but a mighty mad workout notwithstanding. Next day (Thurs 4/30) did an iron workout in 'Querque. Planned on hangboarding again yesterday (5/1)--which woulda put me back on schedule-- but it also woulda put me 2 days out from the bouldering sesh, and by the time i got around to thinking about it seriously i was not feeling it. So i did hangboard #4 today, 3 days out from the boulder session. Did it mid-day, and it was hot. That was the theme for today. But not a bad workout after all.

4/25/15: Hangboard #3

Warmup Jug:  -15:  yup.

Large Open Hand:
1: +5:  Not too bad.
2:  +15:  Hard, especially on f1. No fail.

F 2,3 Pocket:
1:  -20:  Hardhard. No fail.
2:  -10:  Ow. Much better. Failed end of last rep.

[untape f4]

Semi-Closed Crimp:
1:  -15:  OK, no fail.
2:  -5:  Urg! Failed end of last rep.

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -5:  Hard, no fail.
2:  +5 (5lb inc):  Interesting. No fail >-))

[untape f5]

Wide Pinch:
1:  -65:  No fail. Not too bad.
2:  -52.5:  NO FAIL!! That's a bump!

Sloper:
1:  -10:  Failed last 2 reps at the end. :b
2:  BW:  Weird really. Failed last millisecond of the last rep. Did blow on my hands between reps. Helped?

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  5# increase. Hard. Hard. No fail.
2:  -72.5:  again, 5# increase. Massive fail on the last rep. No fail theretofore.

Really good sesh. I'm'a go ahead and post Hangboard #4, so's to juxtapose the two; even though it came after the iron session. This was an odd one, cuz again it was a hot day and i was not healed from bouldering. Still i posted up some improvements. :)

5/2/15:  Hangboard #4

Warmup Jug:  -15:  OK. Bit acidic.

Large Open:
1:  +10:  5# inc. Hard. No fail. Very hot.
2:  +20:  Also 5# inc. verrrrryvery hard. No fail.

F 3,4 Pocket:
1:  -20:  Hard. Failed last 3 reps. Tape was sweating off.
2:  -10:  Yeah! No fail. Nearly degloved f3, but no fail!

[untaped f4]

Semi-Closed Crimp:

1:  -15:  failed with tearing skin. --> go smaller.
2.0:  Reset timer:  -30 with rings to black mark:  Failed last 3 (of 7).
2.1:  -25:  Very hard. Failed last 3 reps.

[taped f5 DIP]

F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1:  -5:  Painful. Failed last 2 reps. Bleh!
2:  +5:  Failed last 2 reps. Very tired. Ugh.

Wide Pinch:
1:  -62.5:  2.5# inc. Failed rep 6 and not rep 7. Misgrip there.
2:  -50:  another 2.5# inc. Rechalked at rep 3. Failed end of last rep. Not bad! Hot.

Sloper:
1: -10:  Failed end of last rep. Hot.
2:  BW:  Weird. NO FAIL! Even did an extra rep.

Narrow Pinch:
1:  -82.5:  Hard.
2:  -72.5:  No fail!! Even did an extra rep again.

So fairly good workout even though it was pretty hot. i think i need to procure some sort of easy-access chalk pot instead of the bag. Might help a bit.

4/29: Back Work:

Deads:  Same workout, but i got a double with 445. Totally failed with 485.

G'mornings:  12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175. last set was a 20# increase.

P'lups:  25 x bw, 2 x +25 x 10, 2 x +45 x about 5 or 6.

One-arm DB Rows:  12 x 90, 2 x 8 x 100. Very tired here.

Very happy with the double with 445 on deads. Pleasantsauce.