Have started Season 10, albeit sorta ambiguously. For ARCing this time 'round i basically got in 3 or 4 sessions of 10-15 climbs. Not optimal at all, but finding a belayer with an attention span longer than 10mins is tricky. Not really possible to traverse long enough on that wall as it's currently set up. So not much in the way of enduro. Am contemplating some way to set up a mini-wall or otherwise set up some hangboards so as to do some proper endurance sessions, and I do think that'll be possible, but haven't worked that out yet.
Have started hangboarding, and that's actually been less depressing. The last two or so months have been miserable. I work in the middle of nowhere, and it's dark when i leave and dark when i get back home. And freezing. So not terribly inspiring. And then i partially tore a calf muscle and haven't been able to run or ride. So i've gotten horribly outta shape and fatter than i've been in a very long time. Hangboarded a few days ago at 210 clothed. That's depressing, just 'cuz it takes months and months of constant work to pare my blubber down to sub-whale status, and then it takes nothing at all--an injury, a less-than-optimal work situation--for it to all go to hell. But on the flip side, even though i'm working out 6-8 lbs heavier this go round, i really haven't lost any strength in my hands. So there's light. If i can unload the toxins and lard, there might be some decent muscle buried in there.
[Never got around to publishing first 3 Hangboard seshes up through 12/25/18 from the bit above. Today I did HB #4 for Season 10. Weighed in clothed at a depressing 214, which is a new high; but that also made several grips de facto PRs, 'cuz i actually went up on a few grips, new layer of blubber notwithstanding. It was about 13degrees out there this morning, and it was tricky to feel my hands.
Notably, i did also get in a 30ish minute run a few days ago. And while it was ....well, it was ugly, i didn't feel like my calf was going to unravel. So there's hope.]
HB #4 S:10 12/29/18 214lbs clothed:
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15↔: No fail.
2: +25: Same, no fail. Not bad. Very cold.
F 2,3:
1: -40↔: No fail, but mighty spicy at the end.
2: -30↔: Toe down last bit of the last two reps. I think I could'a' warmed up better, and, again, i was 4lbs heavier.
SemiClosed:
1: -25↔: No fail, but super pumpy.
2: -15↔: Last coupla secs last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -12.5↑: HA! No fail! That's a proper improvement all around on the last workout.
2: -2.5↑: Not bad! Toe down at the end of the last 2 reps.
Wide Pinch:
1: -40↔: Woo, bleh. Foot down on the last 3 reps.
2: -30↔: Ugh--horrible. Can't feel my hands.
Slopa':
1: BW↔: Got 4. Bleh. I felt bad about this, but this was the same as last workout excepting i'm heavier.
2: +10↔: Got 3. Ugh. Same.
Narrow:
1: -65↑: Got 4 clean, then meltdown.
2: -55↑: Got 3 clean.
Very hard to feel too bad about this workout. Actually went up in iron even without figuring in my puffier butt. If I can keep stringing seasons together without losing all my gains in between, and then also lose some flab, i might see some real progress this time 'round.
Saturday, December 29, 2018
Saturday, December 1, 2018
Season 9 End
OK. Long time no posty. Right then.
I'm calling it on Season 9. Weird ending, but some lessons to be gleaned.
Great HB season (see last post) and i'm looking forward to starting that again. Got in 3 total Campus sessions. Evening prior to Y&Y i went out for a sprint workout, and for reasons that evade me, i nearly ruptured a calf muscle. Did Y&Y basically in Karate Kid mode, knowing i couldn't fall. Didn't have a bad showing, considering; but that was more or less season-ending.
Notably, did get down to about 196lbs then. That's the lowest i've been in a loooong time, but it's possible.
Did get in i think more Campus workouts after that, but they weren't good. One thing i certainly would note is that i've lost a lot of core strength. Hands are stronger than they've ever been, but on the Campus board i can't get the reaches i was getting last season. Need badly to start on the iron again.
And that really leads to the next thing needing a work-around. Got m' job back routesetting, and have a gym, but 1) it is horrible, and 2) i work in the opposite direction. Between having functionally no access to the gym, being to present unable to run or ride a bike, and the 20 degree days, i'm just rotting. There's a light at the end of the tunnel with a new job impending; but that's a ways off still. And scary in its own right.
I need a way to workout basically daily if possible. And i need a way to climb at home. I'ma try to install a landmine, which would make my rack way better and more versatile. I'm hoping to get a decent bench also. That'll be a start.
Doing Endurance work for climbing is trickier. I could design a Hangboard workout that is straight endurance. The trouble there is it will be hard to mock up my actual weight. I'm thinking I could create a an endurance "hangboard" out of a couple sheets of plywood, though, that would allow actual constant contact. And it would be easier to up-modulate the intensity. Kind of a vertical system wall. It would be boring, but significantly less lame than going to the weak-sauce, uninspired college wall here and finding it's once again randomly closed for no discernible reason.
My calf still tweaketh with stretching or loads even 6 weeks later. I damaged it propa'. But it is healing. It's just seriously taken the wind outta my sails. I've gotten just straight fat after doing nearly nothing for a month or so. Gotta gotta gotta get back in the ring. Got to.
I'm calling it on Season 9. Weird ending, but some lessons to be gleaned.
Great HB season (see last post) and i'm looking forward to starting that again. Got in 3 total Campus sessions. Evening prior to Y&Y i went out for a sprint workout, and for reasons that evade me, i nearly ruptured a calf muscle. Did Y&Y basically in Karate Kid mode, knowing i couldn't fall. Didn't have a bad showing, considering; but that was more or less season-ending.
Notably, did get down to about 196lbs then. That's the lowest i've been in a loooong time, but it's possible.
Did get in i think more Campus workouts after that, but they weren't good. One thing i certainly would note is that i've lost a lot of core strength. Hands are stronger than they've ever been, but on the Campus board i can't get the reaches i was getting last season. Need badly to start on the iron again.
And that really leads to the next thing needing a work-around. Got m' job back routesetting, and have a gym, but 1) it is horrible, and 2) i work in the opposite direction. Between having functionally no access to the gym, being to present unable to run or ride a bike, and the 20 degree days, i'm just rotting. There's a light at the end of the tunnel with a new job impending; but that's a ways off still. And scary in its own right.
I need a way to workout basically daily if possible. And i need a way to climb at home. I'ma try to install a landmine, which would make my rack way better and more versatile. I'm hoping to get a decent bench also. That'll be a start.
Doing Endurance work for climbing is trickier. I could design a Hangboard workout that is straight endurance. The trouble there is it will be hard to mock up my actual weight. I'm thinking I could create a an endurance "hangboard" out of a couple sheets of plywood, though, that would allow actual constant contact. And it would be easier to up-modulate the intensity. Kind of a vertical system wall. It would be boring, but significantly less lame than going to the weak-sauce, uninspired college wall here and finding it's once again randomly closed for no discernible reason.
My calf still tweaketh with stretching or loads even 6 weeks later. I damaged it propa'. But it is healing. It's just seriously taken the wind outta my sails. I've gotten just straight fat after doing nearly nothing for a month or so. Gotta gotta gotta get back in the ring. Got to.
Saturday, October 13, 2018
HB # 9, Season 9
Yesterday was fairly productive. I've been, yesterday and this morning, going for fasted walks for 30mins or so. Don't know that i'm torching a lot of fat, but i do feel better, and it's stretching me out a li'l from the HIIT Sprints. Also today i got in about 1.5hrs on the mt. bike (lots of sprinting and resting), and then 6 Sprint intervals on the 20/40sec timer. Good workout.
Yesterday afternoon (10/12/18) got in a little over an hour and a half on the mt. bike, and then after 21:00 got in HB #9--last Hangboard sesh for the season. It was gorgeously cold out there (45-50deg) and it made for a fine workout. I do wanna muse about this workout a li'l bit since i have the habit of reading the last post of a given workout for the season, and skipping the others; and i usually don't include all the info for next time i wish i had. It seems to work best to tape F3/4 and not F2, and then untape at the marked bit. This will be the second time i've transitioned to this Heavy pyramid from the Intermediate about halfway through hangboarding, and it seems to help. We'll see how it works with campusing this time 'round. Also i'd consider adding in a pinch--prolly the wide pinch--in the future. Weighed in at 201 clothed, which is a nadir for me.
WUJ: -15
Large Open: [This is F3 to inside dimple]
1: +10: ↔ No fail. Ok.
2: +30: ↔ No fail. Li'l hard at the end.
3: +50: ↔ No fail. Hardish. Cold.
Small Crimp: [Shallow depression in the Trango board]
1: -60: ↑ Yeah. Still not bad.
2: -40: ↑ Yeah! Hard at the end, but no fail.
3: -15: ↑ HA! got 1 solid, then fail. I'm ok with that.
F 2/3/4: [Untape here. this is the shallow scolloped 3 finger pocket]
1: -15: ↔ Yup. No fail.
2: +5: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy again.
3: +45: ↑ HAha! No fail! Could go up again. That was a 10# incr!
Slopa':
1: +20: ↔ No fail, but it got mighty hard last rep.
2: +40: ↔ No fail. Not bad.
3: +85: ↑ WOO! Last 2 secs last rep. That's a 10# bump. 'Bout right.
F 3/4/5: [Also shallow scalloped pocket]
1: -35: ↑ No fail! Reeeal hard at the end.
2: -20: ↔ Whew! No fail, but the burn...
3: +10: ↑ HA! Maybe last 1/2 sec last rep! WOO! No ruptured tendons!
SemiClosed: [Small rail, F3 to outside dimple]
1: -50: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy. Didn't really bother shaking out twixt reps.
2: -30: ↔ Yeah, no fail. Better i think.
3: +5: ↔ Got 1 solid, then fail on last 2 secs rep 2 and last half of rep 3. Contemplated bumping to +10 on this, but i'm glad i didn't. Pretty baked here.
Great workout to end on. Next comes campusing.
Yesterday afternoon (10/12/18) got in a little over an hour and a half on the mt. bike, and then after 21:00 got in HB #9--last Hangboard sesh for the season. It was gorgeously cold out there (45-50deg) and it made for a fine workout. I do wanna muse about this workout a li'l bit since i have the habit of reading the last post of a given workout for the season, and skipping the others; and i usually don't include all the info for next time i wish i had. It seems to work best to tape F3/4 and not F2, and then untape at the marked bit. This will be the second time i've transitioned to this Heavy pyramid from the Intermediate about halfway through hangboarding, and it seems to help. We'll see how it works with campusing this time 'round. Also i'd consider adding in a pinch--prolly the wide pinch--in the future. Weighed in at 201 clothed, which is a nadir for me.
WUJ: -15
Large Open: [This is F3 to inside dimple]
1: +10: ↔ No fail. Ok.
2: +30: ↔ No fail. Li'l hard at the end.
3: +50: ↔ No fail. Hardish. Cold.
Small Crimp: [Shallow depression in the Trango board]
1: -60: ↑ Yeah. Still not bad.
2: -40: ↑ Yeah! Hard at the end, but no fail.
3: -15: ↑ HA! got 1 solid, then fail. I'm ok with that.
F 2/3/4: [Untape here. this is the shallow scolloped 3 finger pocket]
1: -15: ↔ Yup. No fail.
2: +5: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy again.
3: +45: ↑ HAha! No fail! Could go up again. That was a 10# incr!
Slopa':
1: +20: ↔ No fail, but it got mighty hard last rep.
2: +40: ↔ No fail. Not bad.
3: +85: ↑ WOO! Last 2 secs last rep. That's a 10# bump. 'Bout right.
F 3/4/5: [Also shallow scalloped pocket]
1: -35: ↑ No fail! Reeeal hard at the end.
2: -20: ↔ Whew! No fail, but the burn...
3: +10: ↑ HA! Maybe last 1/2 sec last rep! WOO! No ruptured tendons!
SemiClosed: [Small rail, F3 to outside dimple]
1: -50: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy. Didn't really bother shaking out twixt reps.
2: -30: ↔ Yeah, no fail. Better i think.
3: +5: ↔ Got 1 solid, then fail on last 2 secs rep 2 and last half of rep 3. Contemplated bumping to +10 on this, but i'm glad i didn't. Pretty baked here.
Great workout to end on. Next comes campusing.
Thursday, October 11, 2018
HB #8, Season 9 and some HIIT...
...Or SMIT, or whatever. On 10/9/18 i got in HB 8. Prior to that (notably prolly less than an hour prior) i went out for some HIIT Sprints. That'd be High Intensity Intervals for the parsimonious; and after more research, i discovered there's a difference between that and SupraMax Intervals (or SMIT) which is what i and most folks are actually doing, and what apparently works more effectively for fat loss and fitness increases at any rate. The difference, i gather, resides in percent VO2max attained; and since that's not practically measurable outside a lab, and even with a HRM the goal is basically to run my butt off for the interval, i'll use the terms interchangeably. So with terms equivalent, and HIIT (clearly) sounding cooler than SMIT (which evokes an image of having stepped in something), i'll have done HIIT workouts, thankyouverymuch.
So: on 10/9--would'a' been Tues--i did a HIIT Sprint workout, which went much better than the flolloping miss with weights the few days antecedent. I had trouble finding a settled-upon timer for these, so i used a pre-programmed timer from SecondsPro, which had me doing 20sec work intervals with 10 secs rest between. Had some minor glitches (as i couldn't really hear my watch beep ending the intervals), but it went really well and i think i laid down 9 intervals. Did at the least get my HR into the low 180s, which would exceed my age predicted max HR.
After that, i had more time to research a li'l more thoroughly, and it seems my rest interval was way too short. For today i reset my watch to 20sec work intervals, and 40sec rest, and the rest amounted to basically walking slowly and sucking wind instead of jogging. I think that went way better, and i got better quality musculocardiopulmonary destruction. Again, did 9 sets today.
Also on 10/9 i got in HB #8. Weighed in again at 202 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10: ↔ No fail.
2: +30: ↔ No fail. Maybe a li'l pumpy at the end.
3: +50: ↔ Yeah. Just not too bad.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: ↔ Tiny pump at the end. No fail.
2: -45: ↔ No fail! Really not bad.
3: -20: ↑ Got 1 solid. Failed last 3 secs rep 2, and total fail rep 3.
F 2/3/4 [Untaped prior]:
1: -15: ↔ Yeah, no fail.
2: +5: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy this time!
3: +35: ↑ yeah! Pretty easy. Increase.
Slopa':
1: +20: ↔ Ok yeah! No fail for once!
2: +40: Woot! No fail!
3: +75: ↑ HAHA! No fail!
F 3/4/5:
1: -40: ↔ No fail. Felt better today.
2: -20: ↔ No fail. Hardish.
3: +5: ↑ HA!! No fail!
SemiClosed:
1: -50: ↔ No fail. Not too bad!
2: -30: ↔ No fail! Hard hard, but no fail. Better!
3: +5: ↑ I think i can say i got 2 solid and failed last 1/2 last rep. ish. Timer caught me off guard and i got my fingers in the wrong place which threw me off on the first rep.
This was just an encouraging workout. Some of the tweaks that've been plaguing me and making me nervous have subsided, and i felt like i kinda busted through a plateau through this and the last few workouts. One HB to go. Looking forward to the power sessions. :)
So: on 10/9--would'a' been Tues--i did a HIIT Sprint workout, which went much better than the flolloping miss with weights the few days antecedent. I had trouble finding a settled-upon timer for these, so i used a pre-programmed timer from SecondsPro, which had me doing 20sec work intervals with 10 secs rest between. Had some minor glitches (as i couldn't really hear my watch beep ending the intervals), but it went really well and i think i laid down 9 intervals. Did at the least get my HR into the low 180s, which would exceed my age predicted max HR.
After that, i had more time to research a li'l more thoroughly, and it seems my rest interval was way too short. For today i reset my watch to 20sec work intervals, and 40sec rest, and the rest amounted to basically walking slowly and sucking wind instead of jogging. I think that went way better, and i got better quality musculocardiopulmonary destruction. Again, did 9 sets today.
Also on 10/9 i got in HB #8. Weighed in again at 202 clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10: ↔ No fail.
2: +30: ↔ No fail. Maybe a li'l pumpy at the end.
3: +50: ↔ Yeah. Just not too bad.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: ↔ Tiny pump at the end. No fail.
2: -45: ↔ No fail! Really not bad.
3: -20: ↑ Got 1 solid. Failed last 3 secs rep 2, and total fail rep 3.
F 2/3/4 [Untaped prior]:
1: -15: ↔ Yeah, no fail.
2: +5: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy this time!
3: +35: ↑ yeah! Pretty easy. Increase.
Slopa':
1: +20: ↔ Ok yeah! No fail for once!
2: +40: Woot! No fail!
3: +75: ↑ HAHA! No fail!
F 3/4/5:
1: -40: ↔ No fail. Felt better today.
2: -20: ↔ No fail. Hardish.
3: +5: ↑ HA!! No fail!
SemiClosed:
1: -50: ↔ No fail. Not too bad!
2: -30: ↔ No fail! Hard hard, but no fail. Better!
3: +5: ↑ I think i can say i got 2 solid and failed last 1/2 last rep. ish. Timer caught me off guard and i got my fingers in the wrong place which threw me off on the first rep.
This was just an encouraging workout. Some of the tweaks that've been plaguing me and making me nervous have subsided, and i felt like i kinda busted through a plateau through this and the last few workouts. One HB to go. Looking forward to the power sessions. :)
Monday, October 8, 2018
HB #7 Season 9
Didn't get to post for the last few days.
Yesterday (would'a' been 10/7/18) was cold and rainy, and i went out to the shop for a Tabata type workout. That went horribly, and showed me in stark fashion how outta shape and generally weak i've become. Somewhat depressing, but not really unexpected. Basically tried Push Ups, Bent BB Rows, and Hanging Straight Leg Raises. I used a timer that comes stock in SecondsPro, and it worked out to be a 20/10sec duty/rest cycle for 8 intervals with 1 minute rest between exercises. I could not find something like an optimal or agreed-upon HIIT scheme online, and what i could make a timer out of was so vague and disparate, that i gathered it really doesn't matter what you do or how long you do it as long as it is very high intensity.
In a nutshell, all the exercises were too heavy, and i ended up modifying 'em to finish. One ends up doing a lotta reps with that kind o' structure. PushUps i knew i could do a few sets of 40 or so, but not 8 cycles as it turned out, and i ended up hitting my knees to keep the burn going. Started way heavy on the Rows, paused the timer to drop weights and was still heavy, and just ended up doing a Row/Deadlift/Row to keep moving. That was sorta tragic. On the SLRs i did get 3 or 4 sets, but then melted and switched to Planks for the last few. Again, used to be able to hold a Plank for 2 or 3 minutes without a rest, which would be the entire exercise cycle; so for these to hurt i have lost some goodly amount of fitness. At any rate, i need to incorporate more HIIT style training into the plan. And i need to lift a weight more than every 9 months.
On Sat. 10/6/18 i got in HB #7. This came after a coupla' days of basically overtraining, and i went through the day really dragging. Went to work out more to stay on schedule than with hopes of pushing limits; but this was one of the best HB workouts i've layed down in a very long time. This, again, was on the Heavy timer. Weighed in at 202 lbs clothed.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10: ↔ No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30: ↔ No fail. Not too bad! Cooler maybe.
3: +50: ↔ Nofail. Li'l pumpy, but not too bad. Really equivocal about increasing weights here.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: ↔ That felt really easy.
2: -45: ↑ Ha! No fail!
3: -25: ↑ WooWEE! Got 2 solid, then fail on the last.
F 2/3/4:
1: -15: ↔ No fail.
2: +5: ↔ Ok. No fail. Hard maybe...
3: +30: ↑ Whew! No fail! Cooler or something. Could go up there!
Slopa':
1: +20: ↑ Yeah. Maybe fail last 1/2 sec last rep.
2: +40: ↑ Last 3 sec last rep. OK OK.
3: +70: ↑ Last 1 sec! Not outta reach!
F 3/4/5:
1: -40: ↔ Li'l pumpy @ end, but no fail.
2: -20: ↔ Woo... Last sec last rep. Really tweaky!
3: BW: ↑ Ahhh! Maybe last 1/2 second! HA! Tweaky, but ok.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: ↔ Oooo man! No fail. Torched at the end.
2: -30: ↔ Yeah, last 2-3 secs last 2 reps. Burnin'.
3: -Pin: ↑ Last 3 sec last rep. Hard, and i milked the thumb catches for that one.
This was a good workout, but odd. It was one of those spacey The-body-showed-but-the-mind-was-AWOL sort of workouts. Also it was pretty cool then by comparison to prior workouts, and that helped a ton. Good stuff.
Fri. 10/5/18 got in a 1:30 bike ride. Wasn't very good 'cuz i was thrashed from running the day prior, which was only 30 mins (on 10/4/18) and itself not too fresh due to (i think) a bike ride the day before.
Thursday, October 4, 2018
HB #6 Season 9--Switch to Heavy
First of all, i weighed in at 198 this morning. First time in at least years i've cracked 200lbs. Very thankful for that.
Yesterday started off miserable, as i hadn't slept well in many days. Forced in a bike (43 mins and change on 7 Sisters) and a run brick (about 17mins for an hour total), and felt way, way better after that.
Got home and put up HB #6. Weighed in at 202 clothed last night. Did switch to the Heavy workout for this. Notably, i took 3 full days off between 5 and 6, and that helped a lot i think. Also importantly, i decreased the weights for the first set of several workouts as they're not the point of the workout; they're the warmup. I want the 2-3 reps of the final set to be very crisp and as heavy as possible. To that end, i'd consider lowering my initial weights even further. There's something symmetrical and satisfying about going up 20 lbs between sets uniformly; but the sundry grips don't necessarily lend themselves well to that kind of pyramid. The Slopers, e.g., seem to me to be time dependent more than weight; and i failed on the last few reps with 15lbs on the 7 rep set, whereas i didn't fail with 60lbs on the 3 rep set. Conversely, sailed through the higher rep set on the Small Crimp but flailed on the last set with a 35lbs bump. For the most part, I used my weights from the last few workouts last season, and on some i was actually stronger, or at least basically where i left off. That was encouraging.
WUJ: -15
Large Open: [Didn't tape F2 for this, and didn't tear skin. So yay.]
1: +10: No fail. Not too bad.
2: +30: Hard. No fail.
3: +50: HA! No fail. Very hard.
Small Crimp: [Depression on the Trango board]
1: -65: No fail. Relatively easy.
2: -50: K, yeah! No fail. [Questioned an incr here in my notes]
3: -30: Got 2 clean, then total fail last rep. This was an almost 10lb incr from last season.
F 2/3/4: [Untaped completely for these.]
1: -15: No fail, but it got really hard. Bit humid out.
2: +5: Last few secs last 2 reps.
3: +25: Whew! Last 1 sec last rep!
Slopa':
1: +15: Last 1-2 secs last 2 reps.
2: +35: Last 1-2 secs last rep. Hmmm.
3: +60: 25lbs incr here. No fail! :)
F 3/4/5: [Again, used the shallow scalloped pocket, as for 2/3/4.]
1: -40: No fail, but that got mighty real at the end.
2: -20: Last 1 sec last rep. Tweaky!
3: -5: No fail! Hedged a li'l here, but didn't want a ruptured tendon. Good times.
SemiClosed: [Questioned if this is in the right spot in the workout. After the fact, i think it might be.]
1: -50: Large decr here from the Int workout, because it comes later and i'm destroyed at this point. No fail, but hard on the last rep.
2: -30: Last 3 secs last rep. Not bad.
3: -10: No fail (!) but i milked the thumb catch on the last rep.
Very good start on this workout. For the most part, i'm 'bout where i left off in March last year. That's encouraging. Might actually see some gains if i could truncate a season before the 7 month mark. Also, i'm finally seeing some consistent incremental wins on the weight loss front, and that's super encouraging.
Yesterday started off miserable, as i hadn't slept well in many days. Forced in a bike (43 mins and change on 7 Sisters) and a run brick (about 17mins for an hour total), and felt way, way better after that.
Got home and put up HB #6. Weighed in at 202 clothed last night. Did switch to the Heavy workout for this. Notably, i took 3 full days off between 5 and 6, and that helped a lot i think. Also importantly, i decreased the weights for the first set of several workouts as they're not the point of the workout; they're the warmup. I want the 2-3 reps of the final set to be very crisp and as heavy as possible. To that end, i'd consider lowering my initial weights even further. There's something symmetrical and satisfying about going up 20 lbs between sets uniformly; but the sundry grips don't necessarily lend themselves well to that kind of pyramid. The Slopers, e.g., seem to me to be time dependent more than weight; and i failed on the last few reps with 15lbs on the 7 rep set, whereas i didn't fail with 60lbs on the 3 rep set. Conversely, sailed through the higher rep set on the Small Crimp but flailed on the last set with a 35lbs bump. For the most part, I used my weights from the last few workouts last season, and on some i was actually stronger, or at least basically where i left off. That was encouraging.
WUJ: -15
Large Open: [Didn't tape F2 for this, and didn't tear skin. So yay.]
1: +10: No fail. Not too bad.
2: +30: Hard. No fail.
3: +50: HA! No fail. Very hard.
Small Crimp: [Depression on the Trango board]
1: -65: No fail. Relatively easy.
2: -50: K, yeah! No fail. [Questioned an incr here in my notes]
3: -30: Got 2 clean, then total fail last rep. This was an almost 10lb incr from last season.
F 2/3/4: [Untaped completely for these.]
1: -15: No fail, but it got really hard. Bit humid out.
2: +5: Last few secs last 2 reps.
3: +25: Whew! Last 1 sec last rep!
Slopa':
1: +15: Last 1-2 secs last 2 reps.
2: +35: Last 1-2 secs last rep. Hmmm.
3: +60: 25lbs incr here. No fail! :)
F 3/4/5: [Again, used the shallow scalloped pocket, as for 2/3/4.]
1: -40: No fail, but that got mighty real at the end.
2: -20: Last 1 sec last rep. Tweaky!
3: -5: No fail! Hedged a li'l here, but didn't want a ruptured tendon. Good times.
SemiClosed: [Questioned if this is in the right spot in the workout. After the fact, i think it might be.]
1: -50: Large decr here from the Int workout, because it comes later and i'm destroyed at this point. No fail, but hard on the last rep.
2: -30: Last 3 secs last rep. Not bad.
3: -10: No fail (!) but i milked the thumb catch on the last rep.
Very good start on this workout. For the most part, i'm 'bout where i left off in March last year. That's encouraging. Might actually see some gains if i could truncate a season before the 7 month mark. Also, i'm finally seeing some consistent incremental wins on the weight loss front, and that's super encouraging.
Monday, October 1, 2018
HB #4 & 5 Season 9
Lessee: got hangboard #4 on 9/26/18 and then #5 on 9/29. So far i'm right on track with those, although i can say i'm getting tired. #4 was a great workout, and i posted some gains. #5 was...stale. Notably, i got the Moon wall back up, and i played around on some routes on that prior to #5, and i think that might have eaten into the workout a bit. At any rate, i think like last season, i'm going to switch to the Heavy HB clock now, and i'm going to take one extra day off to freshen up. I never added the 2 finger pocket into that workout last season as i was nursing an angry tendon. I may add that back in e.g. every other workout in lieu, maybe, of the Large Edge. We'll see how that feels. Yesterday did get in a 1.5h bike/ 10min run brick. Starting to feel more normal running off the bike again.
HB #4 9/26/18 204lbs
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: ↔ No fail.
2: +25: ↔ Untaped f2 for this. No fail. Def betta, but hard on the skin.
F 3/4:
1: -45: ↔ No fail...pretty easy really. Cooler tonight.
2: -30: ↑ Huh...Last 3 secs last rep. Way betta! Cold definitely helping.
SemiClosed:
1: -30: ↔ No fail. Pumpy at the end. Not too bad.
2: -15: ↑ Last sec last rep. Whew!
F 2/3/4:
1: -15: ↑ Woot! No fail! Spicy at the end.
2: -5: ↑ Yes SIR! No fail! Yeah!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40: ↑ Ok...last maybe 1 sec last 2 reps.
2: -30: ↑ Felt that. End of last 3 r. Total fail last rep.
Slopa':
1: +15: ↔ Wow. Got most of the 1st 5, then fail.
2: +25: ↑ Fire in them veins on 4-6. Bad last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: ↑ Yeah! No fail.
2: -55: ↑ WooHoo! toe touched down last sec last rep. This is the first gain i've made on this in a long long time.
HB #5 9/29/18
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: ↔ No fail, no too bad.
2: +25: ↔ Ok, no fail. Hard at the end.
F 3/4:
1: -40: ↑ Wooo, last secondish last 2 really.
2: -30: ↔ Wow. got 2-3ish. Really tweaky on the right hand.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: ↑ Hard at the end. Last 1 sec last rep.
2: -15: ↔ Ugh. Last 3 were not good. massive fail on these.
F 2/3/4:
1: -15: ↔ Yeah, tired. Last 3-4 secs last rep.
2: -5: ↔ K, last 2 secs last 2 reps.
Wide:
1: -40: ↔ yep tired. Last 3-4 sec last rep.
2: -30: ↔ Ok. Last 3. Toe broken't with the Earth on the last 2.
Slopa':
1: +15: ↔ Ugh. I mean: Ugh! Horrid. Fail last 3 rep.
2: +25: ↔ Got 3. Last 3 were atrocious. Maybe a bit warmer tonight, but i feel worn.
Narrow:
1: -65: ↑ OK. Not bad. Last sec, last rep.
2: -55: ↔ Last 2. Last rep was a fail.
Really can't complain too much. Did actually add some gains for this sesh, even if i didn't feel crisp and fresh. As above, do think I'll switch to the Heavy HB workout next, and plan to take an extra day off to heal for it.
The rugrats are a couple o' days behind on their workouts; but to their credit they have been under the weather, and quite busy. Hopefully we'll get them back on track now.
HB #4 9/26/18 204lbs
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: ↔ No fail.
2: +25: ↔ Untaped f2 for this. No fail. Def betta, but hard on the skin.
F 3/4:
1: -45: ↔ No fail...pretty easy really. Cooler tonight.
2: -30: ↑ Huh...Last 3 secs last rep. Way betta! Cold definitely helping.
SemiClosed:
1: -30: ↔ No fail. Pumpy at the end. Not too bad.
2: -15: ↑ Last sec last rep. Whew!
F 2/3/4:
1: -15: ↑ Woot! No fail! Spicy at the end.
2: -5: ↑ Yes SIR! No fail! Yeah!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40: ↑ Ok...last maybe 1 sec last 2 reps.
2: -30: ↑ Felt that. End of last 3 r. Total fail last rep.
Slopa':
1: +15: ↔ Wow. Got most of the 1st 5, then fail.
2: +25: ↑ Fire in them veins on 4-6. Bad last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: ↑ Yeah! No fail.
2: -55: ↑ WooHoo! toe touched down last sec last rep. This is the first gain i've made on this in a long long time.
HB #5 9/29/18
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: ↔ No fail, no too bad.
2: +25: ↔ Ok, no fail. Hard at the end.
F 3/4:
1: -40: ↑ Wooo, last secondish last 2 really.
2: -30: ↔ Wow. got 2-3ish. Really tweaky on the right hand.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: ↑ Hard at the end. Last 1 sec last rep.
2: -15: ↔ Ugh. Last 3 were not good. massive fail on these.
F 2/3/4:
1: -15: ↔ Yeah, tired. Last 3-4 secs last rep.
2: -5: ↔ K, last 2 secs last 2 reps.
Wide:
1: -40: ↔ yep tired. Last 3-4 sec last rep.
2: -30: ↔ Ok. Last 3. Toe broken't with the Earth on the last 2.
Slopa':
1: +15: ↔ Ugh. I mean: Ugh! Horrid. Fail last 3 rep.
2: +25: ↔ Got 3. Last 3 were atrocious. Maybe a bit warmer tonight, but i feel worn.
Narrow:
1: -65: ↑ OK. Not bad. Last sec, last rep.
2: -55: ↔ Last 2. Last rep was a fail.
Really can't complain too much. Did actually add some gains for this sesh, even if i didn't feel crisp and fresh. As above, do think I'll switch to the Heavy HB workout next, and plan to take an extra day off to heal for it.
The rugrats are a couple o' days behind on their workouts; but to their credit they have been under the weather, and quite busy. Hopefully we'll get them back on track now.
Monday, September 24, 2018
Enter the Dragons...and HB #3. (And also some cycling. (And running.))
Got in HB #3 for (what're we on here?...) season 9 yesterday--so 9/23/18. This was the second with the intermediate routine again, and the first that felt like an actual workout this season. Did wait 'til after 20:00 to do it so sun was down, and it was a li'l cooler. That helped a lot i think.
More importantly, A&A finally got in their 1st HB sesh. I'm pretty excited for that 'cuz those two could be monsters if they put the work in and get strong. They actually surprised me with the workouts they cranked out, and neither of 'em had to monkey with their starting weights much. I think they're both gunna be pleasantly surprised with how the climbing feels when they've added on a season or two of proper strength work. I think they're going to see some steep gains, and they've both started out pulling harder than i thought they would. Super amped that they got out to the cave. I just wish we had a less dusty place to work out. Ah well: builds character i guess.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Better. Trouble to tell if the taped [F2 especially] helps or hurts.
2: +25: This was a decrease from last workout, and was better. Failed veeeery end of last rep. Felt like tape was slipping.
F 3/4:
1: -45: Ok, better. No fail.
2: -35: Whew! Got 4 very clean! Failed at the end of the last 2, which was better.
SemiClosed:
1: -30: No fail. That got real at the end of the last rep.
2: -20: 5lb decr from last time. Much better. Failed end of the last 2 reps. Untaped completely prior to this, and i think that helped.
F 2/3/4:
1: -20: Yeah! No fail! Much better without the tape. That seriously messed me up last go.
2: -10: This was a 10lb incr. Way betta! Last 2-3 seconds last rep.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Toe touched down maybe 2 secs from the end.
2: -35: Better. End of 5th and then total meltdown on the 6th rep.
Slopa':
1: +15: Bleh. Again, got 4 with ensuing meltdown.
2: +20: Dropped this one by 5lb after the last workout's misery. Got 4 pretty solid, and some of the 5th. Toe didn't break with the Earth on #6.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: No fail. Not bad.
2: -60: 5lb incr (for once). Not too bad! Last couple o' secs last 2. Huh.
Pretty good workout over all.
Today i got in a mt. bike (Kinsey to 7 sisters) at 1:28:07, which was another 2 mins off my best for the season. That's still almost 6 mins off what i'm finding as my PR for that route [at 1:22:24 on 7/14/17]. Still, that's over 14 mins shaved off that route since i got back and started firing at it--on Sept 7. Not terrible progress in a smidge over 2 weeks.
Then i changed shoes and got in a 15min run.
More importantly, A&A finally got in their 1st HB sesh. I'm pretty excited for that 'cuz those two could be monsters if they put the work in and get strong. They actually surprised me with the workouts they cranked out, and neither of 'em had to monkey with their starting weights much. I think they're both gunna be pleasantly surprised with how the climbing feels when they've added on a season or two of proper strength work. I think they're going to see some steep gains, and they've both started out pulling harder than i thought they would. Super amped that they got out to the cave. I just wish we had a less dusty place to work out. Ah well: builds character i guess.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Better. Trouble to tell if the taped [F2 especially] helps or hurts.
2: +25: This was a decrease from last workout, and was better. Failed veeeery end of last rep. Felt like tape was slipping.
F 3/4:
1: -45: Ok, better. No fail.
2: -35: Whew! Got 4 very clean! Failed at the end of the last 2, which was better.
SemiClosed:
1: -30: No fail. That got real at the end of the last rep.
2: -20: 5lb decr from last time. Much better. Failed end of the last 2 reps. Untaped completely prior to this, and i think that helped.
F 2/3/4:
1: -20: Yeah! No fail! Much better without the tape. That seriously messed me up last go.
2: -10: This was a 10lb incr. Way betta! Last 2-3 seconds last rep.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Toe touched down maybe 2 secs from the end.
2: -35: Better. End of 5th and then total meltdown on the 6th rep.
Slopa':
1: +15: Bleh. Again, got 4 with ensuing meltdown.
2: +20: Dropped this one by 5lb after the last workout's misery. Got 4 pretty solid, and some of the 5th. Toe didn't break with the Earth on #6.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: No fail. Not bad.
2: -60: 5lb incr (for once). Not too bad! Last couple o' secs last 2. Huh.
Pretty good workout over all.
Today i got in a mt. bike (Kinsey to 7 sisters) at 1:28:07, which was another 2 mins off my best for the season. That's still almost 6 mins off what i'm finding as my PR for that route [at 1:22:24 on 7/14/17]. Still, that's over 14 mins shaved off that route since i got back and started firing at it--on Sept 7. Not terrible progress in a smidge over 2 weeks.
Then i changed shoes and got in a 15min run.
Thursday, September 20, 2018
Neuromuscular Reeducation: Hangboarding, Season 9
Got in HB #1 and 2 so far for season 9. On 9/17 (would'a' been Mon) i did the first session. Was basically having a very bitter irritating day all round. Got to the boards and discovered my timer (the intermediate HB) had been erased off my phone for whatever reason. Rather than spend the time rebuilding that from scratch, i went with the Heavy HB workout, which i used for the last half of the HB sessions last season. Although it is a very fine workout, it is not a good place to start, and i got m' butt handed to me. No injuries (for which i thank God), but it was an exercise in humility and focusing on not rupturing anything. Also frustrating because it'd once again been so long between seasons. I can't seem to just call it quits and start over even though i know i'd be way stronger and maybe actually see improvement if i would. so in addition to being weaker on the boards than i should be, i also have to retool where to tape up/untape, and which holds i'm using for what grip. So:
HB #1 9.17.18 (Heavy--again, each grip is 3 sets in a 7/5/3 rep pyramid on a 7:3sec work:rest interval)
WUJ: -15:
Large Open:
1: +10: Maybe
2: +30: Painful. Needed to tape f2--skin was delaminating.
3: +50: Horrible. Got 1 1/2ish.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: Whew...easy at first, then fail @ end of last two. (For reminder, these are done on the tiny depression on the Trango board)
2: -55: Got 3 clean. Big fail on the last 2.
3: -40: Fail last 2sec 2nd rep. Hot out here!
F 2,3,4 Shallow Pocket:
1: -15: Fail last 1/2 rep. Whew!
2: +5: Big fail last 2.
3: + 25: Ugh. Last 2 secs last rep. Better i guess.
Slopa':
1: +20: Wow. Horrid. Fail last 3-4 reps.
2: +40: got about 3 solid. Really hot.
3: +60: Massive fail last one.
F 3,4,5 (shallow scalloped pocket):
1: -40: Last 2-3.
2: -20: Big fail last two.
3: -5: Bleh! Think i got my feet off the ground for a sec.
SemiClosed Crimp (F3 to the outside dimple on the small rail):
1: -50: end of last 3.
2: -40: Really at the end of the last 1-2 r.
3: -25: No fail, but ugh.
Following this workout my hands felt like meatloaf, and i rebuilt a timer for the intermediate HB. Under the circumstances, i can't feel too bad about how that workout went. Definitely found the utility in rebuilding my base first.
HB #2 9.20.18 (Intermediate)
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Hard though.
2: +25: bleh! Really a fail on the last 3. Shoulders were creaking, oddly.
F 3,4 (again, used the shallow pocket):
1: -45: Whew! No fail, but hard!
2: -35: Sorta a voluntary fail on the last 3--toes on the ground, as it were. Seriously tweaky, and i didn't see a reason to get injured this early.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: Fairly easy. This is a big jump in weight from Monday's sesh, but it also comes a lot earlier in the workout.
2: -15: Big fail on the last 3ish. Can't explain the 15lb increase, but that was last season's standard i think.
F 2,3,4:
1: -20: Nope. Horrible. Failed on r 3-4ish. Felt like my tape was slipping on f4, which i untaped after this set; but i also felt like my hands were just unraveling.
2: -20: Again, failed on the 4th rep big. No reason to incr weight 'twixt sets for this one.
Wide pinch:
1: -45: No fail! good!
2: -35: got 4 pretty solid. Last 2 r were hard hard!
Slopa':
1: +15: wow. Got 4.
2: +25: Got 3 solid, then meltdown. Again, combo of tired and sweating off the holds.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: Whew! No fail!
2: -65: Last 3ish secs last rep. Really not bad!
Really not a terrible workout, even though i was disappointed by some of the losses in strength. Interestingly, i think was actually stronger on some of the grips, and i think it's been good to heal some tendon in the interim.
I also need to start hitting the weights again. My shoulders and lats have lost some strength and i need that back. Have been riding a lot, and can say i've reclaimed some general fitness on that front. got my time trial on Kinsey back down to 1:30:06, which is better than i was this time last year. Not back to PR range, but i'm only about 5 mins off that. I've trimmed over 12 mins off that ride in under 2 weeks. There is hope yet!
HB #1 9.17.18 (Heavy--again, each grip is 3 sets in a 7/5/3 rep pyramid on a 7:3sec work:rest interval)
WUJ: -15:
Large Open:
1: +10: Maybe
2: +30: Painful. Needed to tape f2--skin was delaminating.
3: +50: Horrible. Got 1 1/2ish.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: Whew...easy at first, then fail @ end of last two. (For reminder, these are done on the tiny depression on the Trango board)
2: -55: Got 3 clean. Big fail on the last 2.
3: -40: Fail last 2sec 2nd rep. Hot out here!
F 2,3,4 Shallow Pocket:
1: -15: Fail last 1/2 rep. Whew!
2: +5: Big fail last 2.
3: + 25: Ugh. Last 2 secs last rep. Better i guess.
Slopa':
1: +20: Wow. Horrid. Fail last 3-4 reps.
2: +40: got about 3 solid. Really hot.
3: +60: Massive fail last one.
F 3,4,5 (shallow scalloped pocket):
1: -40: Last 2-3.
2: -20: Big fail last two.
3: -5: Bleh! Think i got my feet off the ground for a sec.
SemiClosed Crimp (F3 to the outside dimple on the small rail):
1: -50: end of last 3.
2: -40: Really at the end of the last 1-2 r.
3: -25: No fail, but ugh.
Following this workout my hands felt like meatloaf, and i rebuilt a timer for the intermediate HB. Under the circumstances, i can't feel too bad about how that workout went. Definitely found the utility in rebuilding my base first.
HB #2 9.20.18 (Intermediate)
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15: No fail. Hard though.
2: +25: bleh! Really a fail on the last 3. Shoulders were creaking, oddly.
F 3,4 (again, used the shallow pocket):
1: -45: Whew! No fail, but hard!
2: -35: Sorta a voluntary fail on the last 3--toes on the ground, as it were. Seriously tweaky, and i didn't see a reason to get injured this early.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: Fairly easy. This is a big jump in weight from Monday's sesh, but it also comes a lot earlier in the workout.
2: -15: Big fail on the last 3ish. Can't explain the 15lb increase, but that was last season's standard i think.
F 2,3,4:
1: -20: Nope. Horrible. Failed on r 3-4ish. Felt like my tape was slipping on f4, which i untaped after this set; but i also felt like my hands were just unraveling.
2: -20: Again, failed on the 4th rep big. No reason to incr weight 'twixt sets for this one.
Wide pinch:
1: -45: No fail! good!
2: -35: got 4 pretty solid. Last 2 r were hard hard!
Slopa':
1: +15: wow. Got 4.
2: +25: Got 3 solid, then meltdown. Again, combo of tired and sweating off the holds.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: Whew! No fail!
2: -65: Last 3ish secs last rep. Really not bad!
Really not a terrible workout, even though i was disappointed by some of the losses in strength. Interestingly, i think was actually stronger on some of the grips, and i think it's been good to heal some tendon in the interim.
I also need to start hitting the weights again. My shoulders and lats have lost some strength and i need that back. Have been riding a lot, and can say i've reclaimed some general fitness on that front. got my time trial on Kinsey back down to 1:30:06, which is better than i was this time last year. Not back to PR range, but i'm only about 5 mins off that. I've trimmed over 12 mins off that ride in under 2 weeks. There is hope yet!
Saturday, September 15, 2018
Enduro down: Season 9
Did get all the ARCing sessions in this last week. That's honestly kinda a load off--it is my least favorite bit of the season, and very likely one of the more important parts (as, by the time i get back 'round to it, i'm usually severely lack the endurance for anything more than about 6 moves.) Anyhow, got in all the enduro days in relatively good style, and my hands and forearms feel simply decrepit.
Happily, i've also been cleaning up the diet and getting in quite a bit of biking and running. Yesterday got in the two 30min sets of ARCing with Aeon, and then went for maybe 17 miles on the mt. bike. This morning i weighed in at 200lb. That's the lowest i've been in many, many moons. I'm a li'l excited, 'cuz diets have never worked for me before. I actually have a hope for the first time in a long time that i could strip some appreciable lard off and maybe climb well for once.
Now on to Strength phase. I'm kinda amped to get A&A on a hangboard program. I think they'll see some monstrous gains if they put some focus in. I haven't lifted weights in around 7 months now, and i also want to start adding some of that back in gingerly. It's been nice to not feel like i'm dancing on the hairy edge of injury every time i work out; but i do need to start strengthening in a more focused manner again.
Happily, i've also been cleaning up the diet and getting in quite a bit of biking and running. Yesterday got in the two 30min sets of ARCing with Aeon, and then went for maybe 17 miles on the mt. bike. This morning i weighed in at 200lb. That's the lowest i've been in many, many moons. I'm a li'l excited, 'cuz diets have never worked for me before. I actually have a hope for the first time in a long time that i could strip some appreciable lard off and maybe climb well for once.
Now on to Strength phase. I'm kinda amped to get A&A on a hangboard program. I think they'll see some monstrous gains if they put some focus in. I haven't lifted weights in around 7 months now, and i also want to start adding some of that back in gingerly. It's been nice to not feel like i'm dancing on the hairy edge of injury every time i work out; but i do need to start strengthening in a more focused manner again.
Tuesday, September 11, 2018
Season 9 Start
Looks like I'm on season 9 here. Did finish out a pretty good season in Washington, and have taken a couple of weeks off. Presently I should be on week 2 of ARCing. So far it's going ok. Back in the land of entrapment again, and the gym here is... well, it's flatly depressing. The scene here is depressing. Anyhow, that's for another place.
As for the workout, I owe 3 x 30mins of ARCing today. This'll be the last week of endurance, after which it's Hangboarding. Did get the HB back up, so that's ready to go. Y&Y is on Oct 20 this time 'round, and I'm trying to get the kids on board for that.
Don't know where any of this is going.
Ah well. Dawn of a new season, right?
As for the workout, I owe 3 x 30mins of ARCing today. This'll be the last week of endurance, after which it's Hangboarding. Did get the HB back up, so that's ready to go. Y&Y is on Oct 20 this time 'round, and I'm trying to get the kids on board for that.
Don't know where any of this is going.
Ah well. Dawn of a new season, right?
Monday, April 9, 2018
Campus #4 and some bouldering
Last Wednesday i got in Campus #4. I somehow managed not to take my journal with me, so it isn't really recorded, but it wasn't great. As i recall, it amounted to a "Hey this is a downward spiral" sort of session. Difficult to tell if i just didn't give 'er enough time since the prior sesh, or if i just took the "Warmup Boulder Ladder" a li'l too serious. I'm honestly thing the latter is the case. Got a bit enamored with a v6ish problem, and just wouldn't stop 'til i had nothing left in the tank.
Sunday, April 1, 2018
Campus 3, an LB sesh, Bouldering, a Ride--S:8
I wrote all the following yesterday, but managed not to publish. So: from 3/30/18:
Bouldered at the gym today, and that was just actually a really encouraging session of it. Really went in to kick around and move some...kinda some "active recovery", but it turned into a pretty hard session. So: did Campus #3 on 3/29, and it was trending into a downward spiral; whereafter it's occurred that i'm prolly going either too hard on the LB sessions, or else i'm just not spacing 'em far enough apart to heal my decrepit tendons properly. Since i could say almost as a truism that the latter is true, and i've no meaningful intention of changing that, i figured it'd be better to just prioritize the Campus sessions and lay off the Limit Boulder sessions. In lieu of the LB sesh that would'a' been approximately today, i just did a long boulder ladder session. Warmed the mitts up, actually pulled down some spicy problems, but can't say i ever took it to the instant meltdown spot. And to be honest, i'm not sure i have been anyway on the LB sessions. It is really very tricky to find a limity move. I mean, usually when i fail on the the Business Wall, it's because of body tension, or a foot popping, or just not reaching the "limit" hold--not because i just fail to stick it. I like the idea of limit bouldering, but in reality Campusing is Limit Bouldering. That is pretty much literally as hard as it gets in a controlled, pingers-isolated environment. On the other hand, beating my head against crimpy problems a grade or two above my redpoint limit i'd reckon would comprise by definition a limit move.
I really wish they had a proper Moon Wall at the gym.
Anyhow, after that i dusted off the mt bike and rode the river trail for about 11mi. I have lost some serious fitness in the last two months. Methinks i'll pay for that. But it is a nice place to ride.
Bouldered at the gym today, and that was just actually a really encouraging session of it. Really went in to kick around and move some...kinda some "active recovery", but it turned into a pretty hard session. So: did Campus #3 on 3/29, and it was trending into a downward spiral; whereafter it's occurred that i'm prolly going either too hard on the LB sessions, or else i'm just not spacing 'em far enough apart to heal my decrepit tendons properly. Since i could say almost as a truism that the latter is true, and i've no meaningful intention of changing that, i figured it'd be better to just prioritize the Campus sessions and lay off the Limit Boulder sessions. In lieu of the LB sesh that would'a' been approximately today, i just did a long boulder ladder session. Warmed the mitts up, actually pulled down some spicy problems, but can't say i ever took it to the instant meltdown spot. And to be honest, i'm not sure i have been anyway on the LB sessions. It is really very tricky to find a limity move. I mean, usually when i fail on the the Business Wall, it's because of body tension, or a foot popping, or just not reaching the "limit" hold--not because i just fail to stick it. I like the idea of limit bouldering, but in reality Campusing is Limit Bouldering. That is pretty much literally as hard as it gets in a controlled, pingers-isolated environment. On the other hand, beating my head against crimpy problems a grade or two above my redpoint limit i'd reckon would comprise by definition a limit move.
I really wish they had a proper Moon Wall at the gym.
Anyhow, after that i dusted off the mt bike and rode the river trail for about 11mi. I have lost some serious fitness in the last two months. Methinks i'll pay for that. But it is a nice place to ride.
Sunday, March 25, 2018
LB #2 and a run
Went for a 30min run earlier today, and that went well enough. Feeling the weird week of work hanging on like lead weights: it's much like an especially exhausting bout of bed-rest. So not a fast run, nor a smooth run, but i blew some carbon out the pipes, knocked a li'l rust off the hinges.
Plannin' to do Limit Boulder #2 here in a few minutes. I reckon it'd make more sense to post up about that after the workout, but i have time now. Anyhow, it's gunna be epic. I can feel it.
Plannin' to do Limit Boulder #2 here in a few minutes. I reckon it'd make more sense to post up about that after the workout, but i have time now. Anyhow, it's gunna be epic. I can feel it.
Thursday, March 22, 2018
Campus #2 S:8
For some reason i logged the last handful o' workouts in the other blog. Got in Campus 2 yesterday, and honestly that was a li'l bleh. Good workout, but i'm feeling it. Right biceps is still tweaky, but again by the mercy of God, arm's still intact. I probably went a smidge heavy on the warmup prior as well. But was definitely feeling a bit stale for the campusing. Got up to 1,3,4M bilat hands on the medium rungs, and that was all i had. I do like those Tension rungs.
Did climb again today--probably flying in the face of wisdom. But it was raining, and i didn't feel like running in the rain. And i just really wanted to climb. And it wasn't a bad day. Got some good movement in.
Did climb again today--probably flying in the face of wisdom. But it was raining, and i didn't feel like running in the rain. And i just really wanted to climb. And it wasn't a bad day. Got some good movement in.
Saturday, March 3, 2018
HB #8 Season 8--Revamped workout #2
Once again did the 3 sets/grip workout down to 3 reps. I really like this workout. Actually did this on the 3 day mark, and felt pretty good--and even saw some progress. Definitely also had my weights dialed a li'l better this time, and (somewhat as expected) saw some gains on the Money sets by dropping the higher rep lead-in sets. I'm really looking forward to taking this bouldering.
Deal is, my biceps is not healing (and to be fair, so far i haven't given it much of a chance at it), and i'm not terribly confident i'm gunna be able to move into campusing in another week without injury. I am seriously considering extending the hangboarding for a few extra sessions--even possibly ramping the amperage up to 1 or 2 rep sets. But we'll see. If i can actually take a legitimate week or two off of climbing, and the biceps is not threatening rupture, i may keep trucking.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10: (decr) No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30: (decr) Very end o' the last rep
3: +50: (same) Last 1.5 secs. 'Bout right, maybe. Point here was not to destroy my widdle pingers for the smaller grips.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: (decr) No fail. Not bad. Botched this up royally last go, but this felt fine.
2: -45: (same) Last 1.5 fail, so better.
3: -35: (same) Again, got 1 solid. Surmised in my journal about 65/55/45. 65/50/40 might work better--i don't want the last set to be easy, or even fully doable. At any rate, as it it is i'm definitely working the power side.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15: (incr) Last 1/2 sec last rep. Not bad. Untaped here.
2: +5: (incr) Last 1 sec. Much better!
3: +25: (incr) No fail. Interesting.
Slopa':
1: +20: (10lb incr) Last coupla' secs last rep.
2: +40: (10lb incr) No fail again, but just berly.
3: +60: (10lb incr) NO FAIL! Closer though. :) I need those Beastmaker Slopies as modular screw-ons on the side. That'd be swell.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40: (same) No fail.
2: -20: (same) No fail.
3: BW: (same) Way better! Failed maybe last 4 secs last rep.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: (decr) No fail. Betta'.
2: -30: (decr) Last rep was a solid fail.
3: -10: (same) Really last 1.5 reps. That's half a rep better.
Then i went for a 30 minute run. Then i ate sushi. Pretty day.
Deal is, my biceps is not healing (and to be fair, so far i haven't given it much of a chance at it), and i'm not terribly confident i'm gunna be able to move into campusing in another week without injury. I am seriously considering extending the hangboarding for a few extra sessions--even possibly ramping the amperage up to 1 or 2 rep sets. But we'll see. If i can actually take a legitimate week or two off of climbing, and the biceps is not threatening rupture, i may keep trucking.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +10: (decr) No fail. Pretty easy.
2: +30: (decr) Very end o' the last rep
3: +50: (same) Last 1.5 secs. 'Bout right, maybe. Point here was not to destroy my widdle pingers for the smaller grips.
Small Crimp:
1: -65: (decr) No fail. Not bad. Botched this up royally last go, but this felt fine.
2: -45: (same) Last 1.5 fail, so better.
3: -35: (same) Again, got 1 solid. Surmised in my journal about 65/55/45. 65/50/40 might work better--i don't want the last set to be easy, or even fully doable. At any rate, as it it is i'm definitely working the power side.
F 2,3,4:
1: -15: (incr) Last 1/2 sec last rep. Not bad. Untaped here.
2: +5: (incr) Last 1 sec. Much better!
3: +25: (incr) No fail. Interesting.
Slopa':
1: +20: (10lb incr) Last coupla' secs last rep.
2: +40: (10lb incr) No fail again, but just berly.
3: +60: (10lb incr) NO FAIL! Closer though. :) I need those Beastmaker Slopies as modular screw-ons on the side. That'd be swell.
F 3,4,5:
1: -40: (same) No fail.
2: -20: (same) No fail.
3: BW: (same) Way better! Failed maybe last 4 secs last rep.
SemiClosed:
1: -50: (decr) No fail. Betta'.
2: -30: (decr) Last rep was a solid fail.
3: -10: (same) Really last 1.5 reps. That's half a rep better.
Then i went for a 30 minute run. Then i ate sushi. Pretty day.
Wednesday, February 28, 2018
Mo' Hangboardin'
Lessee here... today was HB #7; and we changed 'er up today.
Did get #6 in on 2/25, and it was pretty much utterly stale. Can't say I've made no progress this go 'round, but it's been smallish. And I've been for several workouts wrestling with a tweaky right flexor tendon--especially on the two-finger hangs--and that's been demotivating.
So today i changed the program up. Have been doing the Anderson bros' intermediate program, and that's worked fine. But when i think about the rep/set stacks compared with, say, any other breed of strength training, it seems it's designed more like an endurance/hypertrophy program, and really never touches on the power end of strength. Seven and six rep sets respectively are high for pushing strength. There is a more advance program in their book--which i'm pretty sure adds in a third set of 5 reps for several grips. But i couldn't get hold of my book due to the plague befalling my book-getter. So, Necessity being as she is the mother of Invention, and i finding myself in need, nuked the thing and invented. And frankly, it ain't a bad program.
Went from 8 grips to 7. Tossed out the pinches as i was making zero progress on those. Also nixed the F3,4 pocket due to the buzzy tendon (although i'd consider adding it back in). Replaced those with an F3,4,5 pocket (that's in addition to the F2,3,4 pocket) and the tiny tips crimp, which is basically a sharp, shallow depression in the Trango board.
Took each grip (excepting the warmup jug hang) to 3 reps, but in the spirit of more standard strength-to-power pyramid dropped each set by 2 reps instead of one; and sticking to their generic rule of thumb increased weight between sets by 20lbs instead of 10 to correspond to the 2 rep drop. So i end up with 3 sets of each grip with 7, 5, and 3 reps respectively, increasing by (about) 20lbs between sets.
Ended up being an excellent workout, and i felt (once again) like i was fighting for the reps instead of just either enduring them or failing miserably. Nice feeling. We'll see if gains are indeed there to be gotten. And i'm curious to see if i can heal between workouts. Li'l early to say, but i have a feeling it'd make a great combo to start the season with the higher rep workout, and about halfway through switch to this lower rep scheme.
Was pretty wildly guessing on weights seeing as it was a beta run; but didn't miss by much on most of the grips. I'll record the workout (which i've not been doing recently) for future reference, and so i have the template recorded.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15. No fail.
2: +35. Last sec last rep. Felt 'bout right.
3: +50: Last 2 secs last rep. Obviously, not a 20lb incr. I agonized a bit over where to fit this in the program, but it makes a pretty low-risk-of-injury warmup for the following grips, so i left it first. Weight's prolly about right as it seriously affects the other grips. Could go up though.
Small Crimp: (Again, the shallow depression on the Trango board)
1: -40: Nope. Got 2 of 7 well. Way too fat for this. Probably need to start -60 or 65.
2: -45: Better. Got 3. This might've felt right if set 1 were lighter.
3: -35: Got 1 solid. This is the money set of this workout, so i need to lighten the prior sets to make me hurt properly on this one.
F 2,3,4 Pocket: (Same as last workouts--used the 3 finger scalloped pocket)
1: -20: Really not bad. Felt pretty easy.
2: BW: That got real on the last rep. Failed last 3 secs.
3: +20: No fail! Increase eh.
Slopa':
1: +10: Last 2 secs last rep. Typical. Seems like failure on these is more dependent on time than weight. I think i finally grease off.
2: +30: Hard last rep. Came unglued last sec or so.
3: +50: No fail!
F 3,4,5: (Again used the same scalloped pocket)
1: -40: No fail. 'Bout right maybe.
2: -20: Yeah. Ow. Last sec last rep. Hard.
3: BW: Oh man! Got 1 1/2 ok. Then big fail.
SemiClosed Crimp: (Small rail, F3 to outside dimple)
1: -40: Failed last 2. Prolly need to go down to -50.
2: -25: Again last 2 failed. Ugh.
3: -10: Got one rep solid. That's about right. This grip is very much an analogue of--well, really all the other grips--but especially the Small Crimp. Sticking it at the end was a nice finisher and brought the burn, but i need to expect my weights to go down from previous workouts.
Really this worked out very happily. No injuries, and i actually felt like i worked strength instead of just endurance.
Then i got in a 30min run. That went pretty well for being outta shape.
Good day of it. :)
Did get #6 in on 2/25, and it was pretty much utterly stale. Can't say I've made no progress this go 'round, but it's been smallish. And I've been for several workouts wrestling with a tweaky right flexor tendon--especially on the two-finger hangs--and that's been demotivating.
So today i changed the program up. Have been doing the Anderson bros' intermediate program, and that's worked fine. But when i think about the rep/set stacks compared with, say, any other breed of strength training, it seems it's designed more like an endurance/hypertrophy program, and really never touches on the power end of strength. Seven and six rep sets respectively are high for pushing strength. There is a more advance program in their book--which i'm pretty sure adds in a third set of 5 reps for several grips. But i couldn't get hold of my book due to the plague befalling my book-getter. So, Necessity being as she is the mother of Invention, and i finding myself in need, nuked the thing and invented. And frankly, it ain't a bad program.
Went from 8 grips to 7. Tossed out the pinches as i was making zero progress on those. Also nixed the F3,4 pocket due to the buzzy tendon (although i'd consider adding it back in). Replaced those with an F3,4,5 pocket (that's in addition to the F2,3,4 pocket) and the tiny tips crimp, which is basically a sharp, shallow depression in the Trango board.
Took each grip (excepting the warmup jug hang) to 3 reps, but in the spirit of more standard strength-to-power pyramid dropped each set by 2 reps instead of one; and sticking to their generic rule of thumb increased weight between sets by 20lbs instead of 10 to correspond to the 2 rep drop. So i end up with 3 sets of each grip with 7, 5, and 3 reps respectively, increasing by (about) 20lbs between sets.
Ended up being an excellent workout, and i felt (once again) like i was fighting for the reps instead of just either enduring them or failing miserably. Nice feeling. We'll see if gains are indeed there to be gotten. And i'm curious to see if i can heal between workouts. Li'l early to say, but i have a feeling it'd make a great combo to start the season with the higher rep workout, and about halfway through switch to this lower rep scheme.
Was pretty wildly guessing on weights seeing as it was a beta run; but didn't miss by much on most of the grips. I'll record the workout (which i've not been doing recently) for future reference, and so i have the template recorded.
WUJ: -15
Large Open:
1: +15. No fail.
2: +35. Last sec last rep. Felt 'bout right.
3: +50: Last 2 secs last rep. Obviously, not a 20lb incr. I agonized a bit over where to fit this in the program, but it makes a pretty low-risk-of-injury warmup for the following grips, so i left it first. Weight's prolly about right as it seriously affects the other grips. Could go up though.
Small Crimp: (Again, the shallow depression on the Trango board)
1: -40: Nope. Got 2 of 7 well. Way too fat for this. Probably need to start -60 or 65.
2: -45: Better. Got 3. This might've felt right if set 1 were lighter.
3: -35: Got 1 solid. This is the money set of this workout, so i need to lighten the prior sets to make me hurt properly on this one.
F 2,3,4 Pocket: (Same as last workouts--used the 3 finger scalloped pocket)
1: -20: Really not bad. Felt pretty easy.
2: BW: That got real on the last rep. Failed last 3 secs.
3: +20: No fail! Increase eh.
Slopa':
1: +10: Last 2 secs last rep. Typical. Seems like failure on these is more dependent on time than weight. I think i finally grease off.
2: +30: Hard last rep. Came unglued last sec or so.
3: +50: No fail!
F 3,4,5: (Again used the same scalloped pocket)
1: -40: No fail. 'Bout right maybe.
2: -20: Yeah. Ow. Last sec last rep. Hard.
3: BW: Oh man! Got 1 1/2 ok. Then big fail.
SemiClosed Crimp: (Small rail, F3 to outside dimple)
1: -40: Failed last 2. Prolly need to go down to -50.
2: -25: Again last 2 failed. Ugh.
3: -10: Got one rep solid. That's about right. This grip is very much an analogue of--well, really all the other grips--but especially the Small Crimp. Sticking it at the end was a nice finisher and brought the burn, but i need to expect my weights to go down from previous workouts.
Really this worked out very happily. No injuries, and i actually felt like i worked strength instead of just endurance.
Then i got in a 30min run. That went pretty well for being outta shape.
Good day of it. :)
Wednesday, February 21, 2018
HB 5
It's been a slow week or so here. Got in HB #5 today. That was after a more or less 6 day hiatus. Did climb on Sunday, and it was actually a pretty spicy session. Working on something they're calling V6-7. I've got the moves on it, and just need to link. That's kinda invigorating.
Respecting the HB 5, it was pretty much a plateau session. Taped up a li'l high on the fingers and slipped some 'til i stripped the tape. Do have a tweaky right middle flexor, and that detracted a bit as well.
I really want to change up the HB workouts. Wanna try the advanced program from the training manual, but haven't been able to get hold of that yet. I also looked a program from Chris Parson...something or another... and that's intriguing also. I'm not sure my right biceps would tolerate that presently; but if i can ever get it to heal, it sounds like a hard program.
Respecting the HB 5, it was pretty much a plateau session. Taped up a li'l high on the fingers and slipped some 'til i stripped the tape. Do have a tweaky right middle flexor, and that detracted a bit as well.
I really want to change up the HB workouts. Wanna try the advanced program from the training manual, but haven't been able to get hold of that yet. I also looked a program from Chris Parson...something or another... and that's intriguing also. I'm not sure my right biceps would tolerate that presently; but if i can ever get it to heal, it sounds like a hard program.
Sunday, February 18, 2018
HBing through numma 4
Ummm...Le'see here: got through HB #4 on Thursday. It went actually really well; but i was definitely not healed from the prior sesh. As such, although i was slated for #5 today, i bumped it in favor of bouldering. Justin and i went for a workout today, and it ended up exceeding expectation. I've done entirely too much climbing since I've been here--i can say for sure. It's cold and snowy, and there's not much of a place to run, so i've basically been climbing .... frequently. Also i notice that i cannot heal fast enough from HB workouts to do so gainfully every 3 days. So today, instead of hitting the hangboard, i bouldered. Interestingly, it felt like a pretty great session, even though i didn't manage to finish a single problem. Worked what is probably a solid v6 extensively, and pretty much got all the moves worked out. That'd be a happy dance in the works. Gunna try to hangboard on Wed.
I want to move to the more advanced workout on the HB. I think that'd be more productive at this point. I also need to let my biceps heal. Haven't managed to heal that so far. And i need to work abs again.
Did manage to get a run in a coupla weeks ago. Soon it'll be mt bikin' weather. :)
I want to move to the more advanced workout on the HB. I think that'd be more productive at this point. I also need to let my biceps heal. Haven't managed to heal that so far. And i need to work abs again.
Did manage to get a run in a coupla weeks ago. Soon it'll be mt bikin' weather. :)
Sunday, February 4, 2018
Chest and a Run
Managed to get in for a chest workout today. Can't say it was a stellar workout, because I don't have really a chest to speak of; but it was a nice starting point. Think i got 10 x 135, 10 x 155, 5 x 175, 3 x 195, and then i basically failed with 215 on bench. Shoulders were really bothering me, but didn't give out. Then did a set of dips, and a set of light DB bench and a few sets of cable cross.
Then i went for a 20min run on the river trail. That was pretty great. Very great not being on a treadmill or in a building. Felt a bit like an old man, but it was great being out there.
Then i went to a superbowl party and ate my body weight in cheese products.
Meh. Ah well... it was a nice reset.
Then i went for a 20min run on the river trail. That was pretty great. Very great not being on a treadmill or in a building. Felt a bit like an old man, but it was great being out there.
Then i went to a superbowl party and ate my body weight in cheese products.
Meh. Ah well... it was a nice reset.
Season 8 (!!)
It has now been almost 4 months since my last post. It's a little alarming how often it has been 4 or 6 or so months since a last post. There are only so many 6 month stints in a person's life.
Ah well: I've done a lot of workouts in the meantime. I've moved to PNW, and have--if anything--been climbing too much. But I hadn't started an official season 'til quite recently. Over the last couple o' weeks I put in what'd amount to a lot of ARCing. I didn't exactly follow the workout prescription as I got in the longest day, and was walking the hairy edge of rupturing my right biceps. Arm bruised up, etc, and I took it sorta easy the next week. but I haven't laid off for any appreciable amount of time. Feel like I am slowly healing, notwithstanding...and quite by the grace of God.
I have been doing some iron workouts. Most recently (last coupla weeks) I've been working mostly on pushers. My shoulders have been hurting a lot recently, so i'm trying to rehab 'em. Seems to be helping. I did a hard workout--in fact a 5/5/5 workout on a 500 max-- on deads shortly after getting here; and that was horrible both on my shoulders and my right biceps. As such, I haven't been pulling weight for the last couple of weeks whilst trying to heal. I find (in my elderly age) that it's hard to keep up heavy back work and high volume climbing. And I default to the climbing.
With the snow here, I haven't been doing much cardio. Haven't yet been on my mt bike. Have done a few stationary bike sessions at the gym. That's fun very much like tapping myself on the head with a tennis racquet is fun: Good times for almost a minute. Funny, but I can't seem to get my heart rate up on those ergometers.
At any rate, I did HB#1 today. That was fun. I really like hangboarding. I couldn't weigh myself as I don't have a scale. But I really don't think I've lost any weight. Mercifully, they do have the Trango board set up here, and interestingly they don't have a pulley setup for it. So the hangboards are basically unused. I hadn't done a HB workout since about September of last year. But it doesn't seem I've lost any strength. In fact, it seemed like I made some gains on a few grips. Really good start for the season.
I get to go home next week, so that should be some very useful rest. Might get another HB workout in on tues, but if I don't that'll be just fine.
Ah well: I've done a lot of workouts in the meantime. I've moved to PNW, and have--if anything--been climbing too much. But I hadn't started an official season 'til quite recently. Over the last couple o' weeks I put in what'd amount to a lot of ARCing. I didn't exactly follow the workout prescription as I got in the longest day, and was walking the hairy edge of rupturing my right biceps. Arm bruised up, etc, and I took it sorta easy the next week. but I haven't laid off for any appreciable amount of time. Feel like I am slowly healing, notwithstanding...and quite by the grace of God.
I have been doing some iron workouts. Most recently (last coupla weeks) I've been working mostly on pushers. My shoulders have been hurting a lot recently, so i'm trying to rehab 'em. Seems to be helping. I did a hard workout--in fact a 5/5/5 workout on a 500 max-- on deads shortly after getting here; and that was horrible both on my shoulders and my right biceps. As such, I haven't been pulling weight for the last couple of weeks whilst trying to heal. I find (in my elderly age) that it's hard to keep up heavy back work and high volume climbing. And I default to the climbing.
With the snow here, I haven't been doing much cardio. Haven't yet been on my mt bike. Have done a few stationary bike sessions at the gym. That's fun very much like tapping myself on the head with a tennis racquet is fun: Good times for almost a minute. Funny, but I can't seem to get my heart rate up on those ergometers.
At any rate, I did HB#1 today. That was fun. I really like hangboarding. I couldn't weigh myself as I don't have a scale. But I really don't think I've lost any weight. Mercifully, they do have the Trango board set up here, and interestingly they don't have a pulley setup for it. So the hangboards are basically unused. I hadn't done a HB workout since about September of last year. But it doesn't seem I've lost any strength. In fact, it seemed like I made some gains on a few grips. Really good start for the season.
I get to go home next week, so that should be some very useful rest. Might get another HB workout in on tues, but if I don't that'll be just fine.
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