Thursday, January 29, 2009

Hidden Dragon

While there's certainly something depressing about being too torn down to function at a high level, there's something altogether gratifying about digging deep enough to say "Piss on all that," and tearing it down to the ground for warm accomplishment. Today's climbing session was kinda like that. Started off with quite a lot of super easy traversing. i could tell Tiger Claw WuShu Chi was craftily eluding me yet again, so i thought i'll just do everything with a kneebar, and my teeth if i have to." That didn't really work at all, but there were some chicks nearby watching, so i sent a long-standing v3 proj i'd never managed to do. Then there were these two angry looking, scrawny high-school kids moping about in my gym, falling off of things lightweight people have no right falling off of, so i walked a v3 crimper, and a v2 cave-roof toe-hook problem just to make myself feel better. Then it was upstairs where i fell 4 or 5 times "working" a v2 that should'a been a light constitutional. Got it, but i was sure there was nothing left. Then two more guys came up and started spraying-- working a v7. These fellers turned out to be proper cool, and we fell in to throwing beta at each other. Ended up sending another 3, a "4" that goes at righteous 2, another 2, worked all the moves on a v4 i missed at the comp, and even got some impressive distance on that v7. And i don't think i seriously damaged my biceps further-- kept me arms straight the whole time. Took some very odd yoga poses to do it, but it was a victory for sequencing and technique. Turns out my WuShu Chi can be aroused from slumber by having an audience. Who'd'a thought, eh!?

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

muddle

i have a tenuous grasp on just how often i've been to the climbgym lately. i can say i haven't been climbing much in the last few days... maybe nearly a week. Haven't been sleeping well at all. Biceps haven't healed much from my weird onslaught there for a few weeks. And i think i did some damage to a ligament in my left hand. i've been going to the climbgym almost (but not quite) daily, just to be there. i think i'm afraid of getting out of the habit. But for the last week i haven't been able to do anything. i go in, warm up extensively, stretch, throw at some problems, fall off of everything, then lie on the floor and stare at the ceiling. In that sense it's a bit more like yoga and meditation than climbing. In fact, today i was so stale (and, honestly, afraid of making things worse) i ended up doing a bunch of sets of hanging leg raises and stretching a bunch. Haven't been able to make it to the irongym in a couple o' weeks 'cuz of school and being outta pocket, and i've only swum once in the last few. i think largely because of that i've felt like i'm going crazy if i don't do something, so i end up climbing even if it's supposed to be an off day. At any rate, i've been getting fatter and healing little. i'm real ready to be in our own house again. Nearly there...

Bryant and Sandy: i'm praying for you guys. i surely want to hear that you're good.

Monday, January 26, 2009

The Shack

i read The Shack today. Super good book; thanks for the recommend. i hope it's an accurate view of God. Very beautiful.

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Marker

Meandered in to the Kletterhalle today to kill time. Snagged three v3s (two of 'em new), and almost got a fourth. One of 'em was rated v4, and one of 'em v5, but i'm downgrading 'em to fit the rest of reality. i'm homing in on some realistic goals for the year. i know i can do v6/5.12. Shorter term, i need to 1) heal completely, and 2) start working on slopers and wide pinches. These are a real weakness. i'm finally getting strong enough that some strengths and weaknesses are beginning coalesce, and these grips-- especially open hand slopers-- are truly a weak link. At the moment, i'm ok with my diet/weight. It feels like it's slowly falling into line. the more obsessive i get about climbing, the less i'm tempted to eat crap. Now if i could just figure out how to sleep and fit swimming into the schedule...

Monday, January 19, 2009

True, dat...

i might, in fact, not get around to healing. Steph and i snuck off this morning for a 30 min. TR sesh. Mostly i wanted to get her in the gym and off the ground. She ended up doing three laps on a 5.7, and gave a try to a 5.8-- which i'm certain she'll be able to do fresh. Then i warmed up a bit and onsighted a 5.11. That was a cool feeling. (Ok... technically i didn't onsight, cuz on my first go i dyno'd for a crimp, and she had the rope so tight it yanked me off the footholds and i hung there on the crimp with my feet sticking perpendicular to the wall. Hearty laugh outta that one, got we. But i lowered to the ground and immediately sent.) Then we left.

Got a call long about 18:00 from a friend asking if i'd like to climb some. i'm thinking a li'l rope work wouldn't hurt anything, so i assents. Only i got there, and he wanted to boulder. This didn't go so well, cuz my biceps were insulting me in demonic languages; but it was fun anyhow. i didn't go too hard-- didn't send that v5, but also didn't damage anything beyond repair (for which i'm thankful.) Tomorrow will be an off day, though, methinks. Hopefully i'll get to lift. Good times.

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Water aerobics? Billiards? Shuffleboard?

Had to put a couple of coats of sealant on the floor yesterday, and i've gotta wait 3 hours 'twixt coats (and can't, naturally, walk on the floor in the meantime) so i'm thinking what a fine opportunity to go bond with the fam and climb a bit. i talked Steph into it in short order, layed down coat numero uno, and gave 'er the call. Now understand: i wasn't precisely wanting to work hard projects as i had (and coincidentally still have) raging bicep tendonitis; this wasn't about me, dang it all. In fact, i took friday off just to heal, and didn't whine about it at all. Kinda' nice really. So i hauled all our gear into the gym, and meandered aimlessly a bit. Then i waited some. Then i decided to stretch nice and slow-like. And waited. Then i went for an easy warm-up of 5 or 6 laps up and down on the easy wall till i was sure my forearms were gonna Monty Python all o'er the room. Then, for a change, i sat and waited. Then i found myself on that project v4ish thing i mentioned earlier, and sent 'er second try. Then--egged on by a guy who was working kinda the same stuff as me-- i nearly sent a v5, and i'm 95% confident i've got the crux worked out.

Then Steph and the kids shew'd up. TR'd an "11-" (that probably really goes at ultra-hard 5.9). Made for a nice workout. i felt light, in spite of my omnipresent belly, "that shakes when he laughs like a bowl full of jelly."

Annie ran some laps on the 5.6 wall, which always draws pointing and smiles from the saturday crowd. She digs that, my li'l attention hound. i intend to make this a proper family Thang.

Today, methinks, will be an off day. That v5 crux is seriously lock-off dependant, and i need my biceps to function. For the moment it hurts to brush my teeth and pick up the baby. But if the music and the mood are right, it'll fall tomorrow... }>

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Will work for NSAIDS

...and on a whim, i went back in to the climbgym today, and (i chalk this up to having something on the tranny what's not reggae, as was the case yesterday*) i sent a project v3, and onsighted another 3. Then i worked what i think will have been the crux move on what i further think will end up being a stiff v4.

It was odd. i got in my car to maybe head to school early and get a head start on some homework, and i just ended up at the gym. It's like a nervous tic. But when you hear that call, and yer body says, "Oh, i think so: do let's," you just gotta go.

Earlier on, i went for a 30 min. (+/-) session at the irongym. That felt pretty good. Got a decent ab workout in, and a decent straight-leg dead workout. Chest workout, as i mentioned on the phone, sucked. i'm thinking i'm gonna try to get in several times a week for a while for real short workouts with some really light weight to try and rehab my shoulders. i'll just baby-step my pushers back into shape. After all, my chest workout couldn't get much more embarrassing than it presently is.



*In my opinion, reggae was designed to thin out the herd. Far as i can tell, the only way to avoid clawing your own eyes out before putting the gun in your mouth on reggae is to smoke some heavyweight out of a glass pipe for "mood intervention".**



** i mean, who the hell'd think it'd be a good idea to try and work out to reggae, anyway? Who does that?

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

"i'm looking over/ a hopeless sloper...."

Indeed, she did get 'er job back, and started today. As a result, it is my not-particularly-secret plan to buy one of these bad boys. (Only i plan to get 'im in black.) Sickest sloper i've ever found.

Went in today for a session, and i might as well've gone for a bacon double cheeseburger for all the training i got accomplished. i am tore down plumb. Had that comp on fri. and royally rent some tissue asunder. Then we went in on Sun. afternoon, and i managed to snag a burly v3 i missed at the comp. Moreover, i haven't gotten in to the irongym at all in nearly a week. But it's been for a pretty good cause, i'd say: we got the silly cork floor down finally. Soon i may actually have time for some projects i actually look forward to doing (e.g. my dream campus board). i mentioned before that we got Steph a membership at the climbgym, so we're trying to get a schedule ironed out so we can actually be there at the same time. She's really psyched about getting into shape, and i'm psyched about having her there with me. i think it'll be good for both of us-- some "fireproofing", as it were.

Friday, January 9, 2009

On a beam of shimmering light.

Today was simply not bad. "It's LoOg, it's LoOg... It's big, it's heavy it's wood! It's LoOg, it's LoOg... It's better than bad: it's good!"

Ummmmmm, to begin with we started the day around noon (which coincidentally is when i believe days should be started.) Took Steph, Aeon, 'n' Katja to the climbgym, whereat we purchased Steph a climbmembership. (Yoy!) Then we went to Home Despot, and i got some tools, including a bloody expensive Dremel attachment. Finally, i went climbing at the comp. Turned out, it was an ABS event and i had to pay to get in, and there were probably 200 people there. i was mildly bummed 'cuz i didn't feel precisely 100%, and didn't care much about scoring points. But pay i did. Quite inexplicably, i had one of the finest sessions of bouldering i've ever had. i ended up taking second place in the men's intermediate division. (They gave out ribbons to the sixth place, so it could well be that there were only 6 of us in the division, but they were all skinnier than i, and 10 years younger.) anyhow, i climbed somewhere between 16 and 20 problems-- half of 'em v2 and harder-- and i flashed all but one. The problems were, as usual, not graded, but assigned a point value of 5, 10, or 25 pts. 5 pointers comprised v0 through soft v2. 10s were mid-range: v2 through hard v3 or maybe v4-. 25 pointers were v3 through anything above that. Halfway through the comp i got tired and stopped to stretch a bit and relax. Then i somehow sent two 25 pointers back to back, and flashed 'em both. i saw some strong dudes fall off of both of 'em, and i only saw one of 'em repeated while i was there. So that was a nice feeling. Then i had a Stella Artois, and won an ice climbing guide to Ouray in a raffle. Made for a nice friday. Made me think that if i could drop a few lbs. and work on some weak spots in a desciplined fashion (e.g. slopers), there's real hope for reaching the next level.

Congratulations, B, on getting formally hitched. Most awsome.

Congratulations, G, on getting a ridiculously heavy tire. May it scratch that itch much better than booze, and lower yer plood pressure to boot. (i'll give 'er a try next time i'm down there.)

Peace.

Thursday, January 8, 2009

post-it note

Swam yesterday. That was like Zyprexa. i really love swimming. i have a boulder comp tomorrow evening, so i'm trying to not climb 'tween now and then for some healing, but i'm not sure it's gonna happen. i'm feeling that inexorable siren song of Movement calling to me, and i don't know how to resist. Climbed on mon., worked chest/triceps/low back on tues., and swam wed. just to mark the order down for my memory's sake. Now it's off to lay some more bleedin' cork flooring-- tobacco free, and (hopefully) rage free. Grace and Peace.

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Sonnenaufgang

Feel good and broken this lovely Sunday morning. Swam for the first time yesterday since before i started the rig job.

Got in 1100m:
300 x warmup/drills
5 x 100s on a 10 sec. interval
300 cooldown

Then i got in to the irongym for a quick 'un on the way home last night. This is proving hard to get motivated for, cuz i have no chest left. i'm trying hard to just look at it like it should be looked at: eeeeeasing back into it without hurting myself again.

Did 3 x 10 on DB Press (wherein m' faithful old shoulder injury started whispering from beyond the grave about coming back and haunting me), tried some Dips, but that promised to be almost certain injury, and settled on one set of Incline DBs with 40s. i could just curl 'em right up there, but i only managed one set 'cuz my shoulders and (strangely) bicep tendons were creaking and whining so loudly i couldn't do any more. Then i did 3 x 10 on Hanging Straight Leg Lifts (which i sorta wished i hadn't done with hiking boots on), and they went ok. Finished out with some one-arm Cable Tricep Presses, and Pec Deck.

i was a little disappointed that i haven't healed from all that yet. i swam, and an old ankle injury came back to nag me when i kicked, and i benched and that shoulder injury woke up and growled-- and i haven't had any thoughts at all of either injury in a long, long time. Anyhow, maybe i can keep it light enough to do some rehab.

Friday, January 2, 2009

Quicquid cognoscitur...

Odd day today. Slept like doodoo last night. No alcohol, no dip, chilled in the hot tub, and i still managed to sleep nearly not at all. Went to the climbgym this morning and the lack of sleep shew'd its haggish heed: clumb like puppy diarrhea. (To my head's credit m' forearms were still torn down from climbing a coupla' days before.) Ah well... it was a workout of sorts. Spent the remainder of the day laying cork flooring. By the grace of God i managed not to have a dip, although i was alone. By the end of the day i was having a proper Luther-esque hallucinated self-war/anxiety attack, but i didn't even cuss much (although i shore did want to). Finally i gave up screwing up otherwise innocent cork planks, and went climbing again. Didn't get much better, but it felt good to stretch. i eschewed most of the hard stuff and did a "tour of twos"-- all the v2 i could manage. Did snag a new 3 earlier, although i questioned its 3ness. Also got a 4 that i'd say goes at stiff 2.

Moreover, i scored a big hangboard for $15 'cuz the gym needed the space for a new one. Happy.

The next Stone Cup is this fri. so i'm gonna take most of the week off from climbing. i do want to get in to the irongym for chest/tris. Also gotta start hitting abs with masochistic ferocity. And i must start swimming and running again. Biceps just won't heal--which is right screwing me climbing up-- so i'm hoping a week off of pulling hard'll make a difference.

If i could just find a way to stop thinking so damn much that doesn't involve wholesale self destruction...

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Nuevo ano, nueva pagina

i'll say (with no mean tone of urgency) that it's time for some new year's resolutions. Dragged daddy to the climbgym with me yesterday for one of the worst sessions i've come through in one piece in a long time. i felt fine, and after a solid week off my hands felt pretty dang good. But i felt really sluggish and heavy. Fell off of crap i was sticking dead tired last week. i was getting frustrated (and tired of missing v2s) so i started working a couple of v4+ just to see what happened. Interestingly, i made some good headway on 'em. That was reassuring, and i know i can send if i get back in with my head on straight. Resolution #1: No beer before workouts. ;)

Today Nate came over and helped me work on flooring, so i didn't dip. Strangely, having had no liquor and no tobacco i feel fabulous. Also, by God's grace, i managed not to rage much today. Never have been one for holidays or new year's resolutions and such, but it really does feel nice that it's a new year, and it seems like a fine time to set some goals. i'm mighty tired of poisoning m'self (...and the congregation said'a...??). It's a bit nauseating to look back on this last year and realize how little i've accomplished. i've been paralyzed by my demotivators. i could use some prayer for that too, lads. i gotta quit dipping.

Here's the goal: i wanna lose 15 more lbs. and get down below 180. If i can do that, i won't be gunning for v5-- i'll be gunning for v10. It's not impossible, but i've got to get my eating under control, and i've got to start training like a fiend and training smart. And i've got to get out from in front of this damned computer. Li'l help here? Anybody ready to get strong? Sounds like G's in, and has a leg up on me. i didn't get on the bike last night, but i wish i had. i'm proud of you bro.