Right then: for the last twoish weeks, i've been working on stringing three toprope routes together. Basically same thing i was working on last season. But tonight i got 'em all. That's a good feeling, 'cuz i weighed in a coupla lbs heavier than i have recently (200.00) and really wasn't feeling it. And i forgot my tack bag and ended up climbing in an ancient harness and the really-past-due-for-a-resole Solutions.
Hands felt like taffy at first, but that seemed to work itself out. I'm guessing the first route is very stiff .11; the second is prolly in the .10s, and the third, i'd guess, is kinda .9-.10ish. Hard to rate, 'cuz i'm just baked by the time i get there. So i'm not doing the bouldery, powerful 4x4s as prescribed, but honestly i'd guess what i'm doing is more specific for the goal routes i'm looking at.
So summary: Not doing too badly, but i need to lose some lard, and i need to set some new routes.
Tuesday, November 17, 2015
Tuesday, November 3, 2015
Campus #5 and Limit Boulder #4
Right then: power is done for the moment. Finished up the last "Limit" boulder sesh tonight and did the last Campus sesh for the season on 10/31 (3 days ago). My hands feel just decrepit.
The limit bouldering was not precisely what would normally be limit for me. Basically got stuck on what should have been the warmup-- got stuck on just bouldering hard. Did get some good routes out of the way. Not quite sure what any of 'em would go at. They're mostly my routes. Anyhow, some good routes in the bag; nothing very limity. Widdle pingers just weren't having it.
Saturday did Campus #5. Ok workout, but it let me know it's time to lay off. i missed some stuff i'd been getting pretty easily. On the other hand, i got some stuff i'd been missing.
L)
Basic: Bleh. B.
1,4,5:
Missed B
Then missed it again. did these in the morning. Might'a' been a li'l early.
M)
1,4,5:
L: Nearly. Lazy.
R: Same. Head not on.
L: Ugh! miss.
R: Didn't stick 4. Miserable.
S)
1,2 (Start on 3, which stretched me out a bit more):
L: Good. Almost matched without a dab.
R: Got the match!
L: Got it!
R: Popped on the match.
1,3:
B: Missed but touched. Nearly!
M)
1, 2-3-4:
B: touched and missed 4. Very torn down. At any rate, that's still progress.
The limit bouldering was not precisely what would normally be limit for me. Basically got stuck on what should have been the warmup-- got stuck on just bouldering hard. Did get some good routes out of the way. Not quite sure what any of 'em would go at. They're mostly my routes. Anyhow, some good routes in the bag; nothing very limity. Widdle pingers just weren't having it.
Saturday did Campus #5. Ok workout, but it let me know it's time to lay off. i missed some stuff i'd been getting pretty easily. On the other hand, i got some stuff i'd been missing.
L)
Basic: Bleh. B.
1,4,5:
Missed B
Then missed it again. did these in the morning. Might'a' been a li'l early.
M)
1,4,5:
L: Nearly. Lazy.
R: Same. Head not on.
L: Ugh! miss.
R: Didn't stick 4. Miserable.
S)
1,2 (Start on 3, which stretched me out a bit more):
L: Good. Almost matched without a dab.
R: Got the match!
L: Got it!
R: Popped on the match.
1,3:
B: Missed but touched. Nearly!
M)
1, 2-3-4:
B: touched and missed 4. Very torn down. At any rate, that's still progress.
Monday, October 26, 2015
Limit Boulder #3 and Campus #4
Friday i went in to route set, and eked a pretty good limit boulder sesh out of the deal. Powerful workout, really.
Last night i did Campus 4. Very good session, all said and done.
L)
Basic Ladder:
Got it both.
1,4,5:
L: Got it.
R: Got it.
1,4,6:
L: Nope. Million miles away.
R: Got it!
L: Yessiree Bob!
M)
1,4,5:
L: Yeah! Got it first go.
R: Nope. Twisted wrong.
R: No. Urgh!
S)
1,2,3:
L: with a dab
R: got one! That's exciting! There's hope.
M)
1,4,5:
R: Missed. :(
Bumps 1, 2-3-4:
L: Missed 4
R: Got it!
L: got it.
1, 3-4-5:
L: Missed the 5
R: Ditto
L: Tired. Same.
R: Barely missed.
L)
Matching Ladder 1,4,7:
L: got it!
R: Got it!
M)
Basic Ladder 1-6:
R: Got it!
L: Got it!
This was a good one. Very mental, campusing. But i'm making gains, even if slowly. And i think i got several more sets in, which is very encouraging. It's becoming more of a game or a workout than just injury avoidance, and it's translating to the climbing really well. I'm yarding my flabby butt up pretty calmly on stuff that would have destroyed my tendons not too long ago. That's happy sauce.
Last night i did Campus 4. Very good session, all said and done.
L)
Basic Ladder:
Got it both.
1,4,5:
L: Got it.
R: Got it.
1,4,6:
L: Nope. Million miles away.
R: Got it!
L: Yessiree Bob!
M)
1,4,5:
L: Yeah! Got it first go.
R: Nope. Twisted wrong.
R: No. Urgh!
S)
1,2,3:
L: with a dab
R: got one! That's exciting! There's hope.
M)
1,4,5:
R: Missed. :(
Bumps 1, 2-3-4:
L: Missed 4
R: Got it!
L: got it.
1, 3-4-5:
L: Missed the 5
R: Ditto
L: Tired. Same.
R: Barely missed.
L)
Matching Ladder 1,4,7:
L: got it!
R: Got it!
M)
Basic Ladder 1-6:
R: Got it!
L: Got it!
This was a good one. Very mental, campusing. But i'm making gains, even if slowly. And i think i got several more sets in, which is very encouraging. It's becoming more of a game or a workout than just injury avoidance, and it's translating to the climbing really well. I'm yarding my flabby butt up pretty calmly on stuff that would have destroyed my tendons not too long ago. That's happy sauce.
Tuesday, October 20, 2015
Limit Boulder #2, Yank n Yard, and Campus #3
Last wednesday (10/14) did a Limit Boulder sesh, although i kept it really light in front of the comp. 'Fact, i kept it light enough that i don't remember what i did. Guess it was mostly a piddly bouldering sesh. Anyway, good times.
Skipped Friday's Campus session 'cuz of YnY looming. That was a bit inspiring, as always. Got 6th in age group, and missed at least a place by a single finish hold. Ah well: Still a ton of fun, and Annie kicked some butt and took some names. I was so surprised by what she can climb with no training whatsoever-- man. Weird comp though. Every route i got, i flashed. There were so many people that there was no way to work a route. It'd be 15 mins between burns. Very odd. But still fun.
Tonight i did Campus #3. Started out kinda sketchy: getting chilly (which i've been looking forward to for some time) and i'm way sleep-deprived so it took a minute to get warmed up and serious. Did fire up the heater, and made some gains. :)
L)
Basic Ladder: good both.
1,4,5:
L: yup
R: yup
1,4,6:
L: Missed.
R: Missed
L: Missed. Very discouraging.
R: Got it! Very not discouraging.
L: Yeah. got it!
M)
1,4,5
L: Yeah! First try
R: Missed. Waited too long.
R: Got it! Better.
S)
1,3
L: Missed
R: Nope
L: Nope, but i jumped and stuck it. Couldn't match.
R: Ditto.
M)
Bump 1, 2-3-4
L: Missed 4
R: same
1, 3-4-5
L: Missed the 5
R: Same. Touched it but no stick.
L: Ugh.
R: Veeeery close.
L)
Matching Ladder
1, 4, 7
got it with both hands.
Very good workout. Feel during the workout that i'm not making the progress i want to see, but i'm making definite progress.
Skipped Friday's Campus session 'cuz of YnY looming. That was a bit inspiring, as always. Got 6th in age group, and missed at least a place by a single finish hold. Ah well: Still a ton of fun, and Annie kicked some butt and took some names. I was so surprised by what she can climb with no training whatsoever-- man. Weird comp though. Every route i got, i flashed. There were so many people that there was no way to work a route. It'd be 15 mins between burns. Very odd. But still fun.
Tonight i did Campus #3. Started out kinda sketchy: getting chilly (which i've been looking forward to for some time) and i'm way sleep-deprived so it took a minute to get warmed up and serious. Did fire up the heater, and made some gains. :)
L)
Basic Ladder: good both.
1,4,5:
L: yup
R: yup
1,4,6:
L: Missed.
R: Missed
L: Missed. Very discouraging.
R: Got it! Very not discouraging.
L: Yeah. got it!
M)
1,4,5
L: Yeah! First try
R: Missed. Waited too long.
R: Got it! Better.
S)
1,3
L: Missed
R: Nope
L: Nope, but i jumped and stuck it. Couldn't match.
R: Ditto.
M)
Bump 1, 2-3-4
L: Missed 4
R: same
1, 3-4-5
L: Missed the 5
R: Same. Touched it but no stick.
L: Ugh.
R: Veeeery close.
L)
Matching Ladder
1, 4, 7
got it with both hands.
Very good workout. Feel during the workout that i'm not making the progress i want to see, but i'm making definite progress.
Sunday, October 11, 2015
Limit Boulder #1 and Campus #2
Bouldered a bit on friday (10/9) and did work a limit problem for a while. Really not much in the way of warmup problems set up there, so i ARCd for a few minutes and then got to it. Really didn't go too hard, but it was a fine workout anyhow. Need to set more limity problems. Did just order a bunch more holds for the college, so i should have some material with which to set shortly.
Did campus #2 today, and that went just superdeeduper well. Weighed in at 198 clothed. Bonus.
Usual warmup. Skipped the XL rungs today, and went for some Basic ladders on the L rungs.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: Got it first try!! Never got this leading L last time.
R: Same--first go. :)
M)
1,4,5:
L: Missed the match.
R: Sorta got it after a fail.
L: GOT IT!
R: Missed.
L: Missed.
R: Got it :)
S)
1-2:
L: with a dab
R: ditto.
Did 3 or 4 sets of that. Did feel a little better on these this time.
Went back to L for some bumps.
L)
1,4, bump 5:
L: Meh.
R: Yeah. hard. Failed on 5.
1,3, bump 4, bump 5:
L: Missed 5 again.
R: Ditto.
Repeated this twice more. Did finally snag it leading R.
Yeah. So some improvements just since the first go 'round. Diet's going ok for now too. Got Yank 'n' Yard coming up net weekend. We'll see how this translates. Li'l bit psyched.
Did campus #2 today, and that went just superdeeduper well. Weighed in at 198 clothed. Bonus.
Usual warmup. Skipped the XL rungs today, and went for some Basic ladders on the L rungs.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: Got it first try!! Never got this leading L last time.
R: Same--first go. :)
M)
1,4,5:
L: Missed the match.
R: Sorta got it after a fail.
L: GOT IT!
R: Missed.
L: Missed.
R: Got it :)
S)
1-2:
L: with a dab
R: ditto.
Did 3 or 4 sets of that. Did feel a little better on these this time.
Went back to L for some bumps.
L)
1,4, bump 5:
L: Meh.
R: Yeah. hard. Failed on 5.
1,3, bump 4, bump 5:
L: Missed 5 again.
R: Ditto.
Repeated this twice more. Did finally snag it leading R.
Yeah. So some improvements just since the first go 'round. Diet's going ok for now too. Got Yank 'n' Yard coming up net weekend. We'll see how this translates. Li'l bit psyched.
Wednesday, October 7, 2015
Season 4 Campus #1
Did Campus #1 yesterday (10/6). Not a bad workout, really. Think i've lost a little contact strength, but it's hard to say whether it's strength or coordination. not far at all from where i left off, at any rate. Could see some gains this go-round. Weighed in at 200lb for it.
Warmed up with pushups, pullups, ring dips, rows, SLRs and toe touches. Got on the hangboard to wake the nubbins up. XL rungs for a basic ladder up and down. Then to the L.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: fail
R: Got it!
L: fail x 2. Couldn't seem to twist correctly for this. Dropped back to 1,4,5 and got it.
M)
1,4:
L: fail
R: fail
L: stuck 4, but no match.
R: Ditto
1,3,5:
L: got it!
R: ditto. Much better.\
Went back to 1,4 for 2 more sets each hand. Couldn't manage to match either hand, but very close.
Then back to 1,3,5 and matched B, no problem.
S)
1,2: Matched both hands with a dab. Two sets of that.
Yeah: not far off of where i stopped last season. After this i went and worked a boulder problem for a while at the gym. Got a limit boulder sesh coming up shortly, so we'll see if yesterday's work proves detrimental.
Warmed up with pushups, pullups, ring dips, rows, SLRs and toe touches. Got on the hangboard to wake the nubbins up. XL rungs for a basic ladder up and down. Then to the L.
L)
1,4,5:
L: check
R: check
1,4,6:
L: fail
R: Got it!
L: fail x 2. Couldn't seem to twist correctly for this. Dropped back to 1,4,5 and got it.
M)
1,4:
L: fail
R: fail
L: stuck 4, but no match.
R: Ditto
1,3,5:
L: got it!
R: ditto. Much better.\
Went back to 1,4 for 2 more sets each hand. Couldn't manage to match either hand, but very close.
Then back to 1,3,5 and matched B, no problem.
S)
1,2: Matched both hands with a dab. Two sets of that.
Yeah: not far off of where i stopped last season. After this i went and worked a boulder problem for a while at the gym. Got a limit boulder sesh coming up shortly, so we'll see if yesterday's work proves detrimental.
Thursday, October 1, 2015
Hangboard #9 (last one for season 4)
Definitely feeling tired today. Really could'a' used another day of rest. But G&M are coming, so i figured it was either now or not at all. Really do seem to heal better and get better workouts in if i take 3 full days off instead of 2 about every other rest period. Might intentionally plan that next season.
Since this is the last hangboard sesh, i think i'll take the space and detail everything. Weighed in at 200.0lbs tonight pre-workout. Seems to work best to tape only f 3&4 on the present grips. Also went back and looked at HB#9 from last season. That, at least, is encouraging.
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open:
1: +35 (+5): Hard. No fail.
2: +45 (same): Failed last rep. Bleh. This is a change from +17.5 & +27.5 respectively last season. Using the inner dimple at f2.
F 3,4:
1: -35 (same): Fail last two. Seemed the taped was slipping, so i detaped after this.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 3. Just plain tired. Can't compare this one 'cuz i'm using the shallowest pocket on the board.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): OK. Hard.
2: +10 (+5): Got two clean. Prolly a li'l ambitious. Mighty hard. Up from -20 and -10 last season. happy gain. Using the outside dimple at f3.
F 2,3,4:
1: BW (+>5): No fail. :))
2: +10 (same): Failed last second last rep. Can't compare last season cuz i'm using the shallow scalloped pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Better. Fail last 1.5ish.
2: -25 (same): Don't quite know...failed last 3-4ish. Compare to -45 & -35 respectively last season.
Slopa':
1: +25 (same): Good grief! failed last 3.
2: +45 (+5): 'Cuz why not go big? Very happy. Failed last 1.5. Compare to BW and +10 last season. That is a 35lb bump. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (same): OK. failed last 2.
2: -45 (same): Big fail last two or three. Still, compare to -70 and -60 last season. Good stuff.
Funny, 'cuz i felt like i didn't make as steep gains as i imagined i might; but there were some huge gains compared to the same point last season, and on nearly every grip. Nothing to be too downcast about here. Just gotta figure out how to lose some weight now. Yank n Yard's coming up in a few weeks.
Since this is the last hangboard sesh, i think i'll take the space and detail everything. Weighed in at 200.0lbs tonight pre-workout. Seems to work best to tape only f 3&4 on the present grips. Also went back and looked at HB#9 from last season. That, at least, is encouraging.
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open:
1: +35 (+5): Hard. No fail.
2: +45 (same): Failed last rep. Bleh. This is a change from +17.5 & +27.5 respectively last season. Using the inner dimple at f2.
F 3,4:
1: -35 (same): Fail last two. Seemed the taped was slipping, so i detaped after this.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 3. Just plain tired. Can't compare this one 'cuz i'm using the shallowest pocket on the board.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): OK. Hard.
2: +10 (+5): Got two clean. Prolly a li'l ambitious. Mighty hard. Up from -20 and -10 last season. happy gain. Using the outside dimple at f3.
F 2,3,4:
1: BW (+>5): No fail. :))
2: +10 (same): Failed last second last rep. Can't compare last season cuz i'm using the shallow scalloped pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Better. Fail last 1.5ish.
2: -25 (same): Don't quite know...failed last 3-4ish. Compare to -45 & -35 respectively last season.
Slopa':
1: +25 (same): Good grief! failed last 3.
2: +45 (+5): 'Cuz why not go big? Very happy. Failed last 1.5. Compare to BW and +10 last season. That is a 35lb bump. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (same): OK. failed last 2.
2: -45 (same): Big fail last two or three. Still, compare to -70 and -60 last season. Good stuff.
Funny, 'cuz i felt like i didn't make as steep gains as i imagined i might; but there were some huge gains compared to the same point last season, and on nearly every grip. Nothing to be too downcast about here. Just gotta figure out how to lose some weight now. Yank n Yard's coming up in a few weeks.
Monday, September 28, 2015
Hangboard #8
Right: So i might could'a' used an extra day. This was not a wash of a workout; but it could've gone better in a few key bits.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +30 (same): No fail, but hard.
2: +45 (+5): Odd. i think my foot touched down before the buzzer, but hard to call that a fail. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -35 (+5): Big ol' fail) on the last two. Untaped f4 just prior. I'm not sure if i was slipping on the remaining tape, or was feeling the skin tearing where i'd untaped.
2: -25 (same): Ugh. Really failed on the last three, although the last one wasn't a bad attempt. this was where i really felt the frayed tendons creaking, and was wishing for an extra day of healing.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): No fail.
2: BW (+>5): Failed on the last 3. Not horrible.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (same): No fail.
2: +10 (+5): No fail (!!!) That's a propa' gain.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on r6 and not r7. Had to rechalk in there.
2: -20 (+5): Made the first three. Failed the last three, but kept the pressure on. Hardhard.
Sloper:
1: +25 (same): Really tired for this. Failed last 3. Kinda demoralizing.
2: +40 (+5): Failed really on the last 1.2 reps. Weird.That was a good set.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (+5): Failed last 2.5 reps. Not sure what drove me to put 5lb more on, but it worked out just fine.
2: -45 (same): Failed on the last 2 for sure. Not bad. After the set before, I was truly shocked.
So: no really big gains, some some gains nonetheless. Now for the last session of the season... :)
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +30 (same): No fail, but hard.
2: +45 (+5): Odd. i think my foot touched down before the buzzer, but hard to call that a fail. Not bad.
F 2,3:
1: -35 (+5): Big ol' fail) on the last two. Untaped f4 just prior. I'm not sure if i was slipping on the remaining tape, or was feeling the skin tearing where i'd untaped.
2: -25 (same): Ugh. Really failed on the last three, although the last one wasn't a bad attempt. this was where i really felt the frayed tendons creaking, and was wishing for an extra day of healing.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (same): No fail.
2: BW (+>5): Failed on the last 3. Not horrible.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (same): No fail.
2: +10 (+5): No fail (!!!) That's a propa' gain.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on r6 and not r7. Had to rechalk in there.
2: -20 (+5): Made the first three. Failed the last three, but kept the pressure on. Hardhard.
Sloper:
1: +25 (same): Really tired for this. Failed last 3. Kinda demoralizing.
2: +40 (+5): Failed really on the last 1.2 reps. Weird.That was a good set.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -55 (+5): Failed last 2.5 reps. Not sure what drove me to put 5lb more on, but it worked out just fine.
2: -45 (same): Failed on the last 2 for sure. Not bad. After the set before, I was truly shocked.
So: no really big gains, some some gains nonetheless. Now for the last session of the season... :)
Friday, September 25, 2015
Hangboard #7
Another good one here. Some serious gains and some plateaus--the difference of which make for a net gain. I can definitely tell a difference when i take three days off and when i take two. Seems like it might be worth it to take the extra day about every other session. Weighed in pre-workout at 200.0lbs.
This time i had the two days off. Skin was certainly not healed, and i still felt some fraying, but i saw some very happy gains, notwithstanding.
WUJ: -15. check.
Large Open:
1: +30 (+5): No fail.
2: +40 (+5): Ugh! Failed very end of the last two reps.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -25 (+5): NO FAIL!!! This was torturous happy sauce.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (+5): No fail.
2: -5 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (+20): Last minute decision on the weight, and it worked out mighty fine. No fail. Big gain.
2: +5 (+10): Haaaard last rep. i think, honestly, i dropped my feet 'fore the timer beeped. Homing in on a limit here. Time to start pushing it.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on the last rep. Way betta'. 2 reps better.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 2.5 r. That's half a rep better.
Sloper:
1: +25 (+5): Really failed last 2.5.
2: +35 (+5): Good. Failed last 1.5. Same as last sesh, but 5 lbs heavier.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps instead of the last 3.
2: -45 (same): Again, better. Last 2 reps really.
It's exciting that there could be more gains ahead even this season. Once again, i'm looking really forward to taking this to the climbs. Yank n Yard is coming up soon. :)
This time i had the two days off. Skin was certainly not healed, and i still felt some fraying, but i saw some very happy gains, notwithstanding.
WUJ: -15. check.
Large Open:
1: +30 (+5): No fail.
2: +40 (+5): Ugh! Failed very end of the last two reps.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -25 (+5): NO FAIL!!! This was torturous happy sauce.
SemiClosed:
1: -15 (+5): No fail.
2: -5 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5 (+20): Last minute decision on the weight, and it worked out mighty fine. No fail. Big gain.
2: +5 (+10): Haaaard last rep. i think, honestly, i dropped my feet 'fore the timer beeped. Homing in on a limit here. Time to start pushing it.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (same): Failed on the last rep. Way betta'. 2 reps better.
2: -25 (same): Failed last 2.5 r. That's half a rep better.
Sloper:
1: +25 (+5): Really failed last 2.5.
2: +35 (+5): Good. Failed last 1.5. Same as last sesh, but 5 lbs heavier.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): Better. Failed last 2 reps instead of the last 3.
2: -45 (same): Again, better. Last 2 reps really.
It's exciting that there could be more gains ahead even this season. Once again, i'm looking really forward to taking this to the climbs. Yank n Yard is coming up soon. :)
Tuesday, September 22, 2015
Hangboard #6
This was better. i think. Rained a bunch today, so it was a mite sultry out there. But fairly cool. Also i took four days off to heal, and that added something, methinks. Weighed in clothed and shod, without a harness right at 200lbs. That's gordo.
WUJ: -15: fine. Only taped f3 and 4 today. Worked out real nice.
Large Open:
1: +25 (+5): No fail. To clarify prior confusion, i took f2 to the first dimple.
2: +35 (+5): happyjuice. no fail. That'd be a tidy PR.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -40 (same): No fail. better.
2: -30 (Um -5, sorta): no fail. I'm taking that as an uptick. Failed last time i tried this at the end, and failed miserably when i took it to -25 last go. This was hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail. Easy up to the last rep. that one was kin'a hard.
2: -5 (+5): Pretty hefty fail on the last 3 reps. Good effort.
F 2,3,4:
1: -25 (+5): No fail. Really pretty easy. Increase.
2: -5 (+10): No fail!! Cannot explain that one. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (+5): Failed on last 3 reps. Feelin' the humidity on these.
2: -25 (same): Big ol' fail last 3 reps. Again, blamin' the humidity.
Sloper:
1: +20 (+20): Odd. failed on last rep absolutely. That's prolly the biggest jump i've made.
2: +30 (+5): Good. failed last rep and change-- 'bout where i failed with 5# less last time.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): fail last 3 reps. Humid.
2: -45 (+5): Failed last 3. Not horrible. figured if i could only hold on for 3ish reps i might as well make 'em heavier.
This was a good workout. Showed me how much difference a li'l extra friction makes. Still seeing some very happy gains.
WUJ: -15: fine. Only taped f3 and 4 today. Worked out real nice.
Large Open:
1: +25 (+5): No fail. To clarify prior confusion, i took f2 to the first dimple.
2: +35 (+5): happyjuice. no fail. That'd be a tidy PR.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -40 (same): No fail. better.
2: -30 (Um -5, sorta): no fail. I'm taking that as an uptick. Failed last time i tried this at the end, and failed miserably when i took it to -25 last go. This was hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail. Easy up to the last rep. that one was kin'a hard.
2: -5 (+5): Pretty hefty fail on the last 3 reps. Good effort.
F 2,3,4:
1: -25 (+5): No fail. Really pretty easy. Increase.
2: -5 (+10): No fail!! Cannot explain that one. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -35 (+5): Failed on last 3 reps. Feelin' the humidity on these.
2: -25 (same): Big ol' fail last 3 reps. Again, blamin' the humidity.
Sloper:
1: +20 (+20): Odd. failed on last rep absolutely. That's prolly the biggest jump i've made.
2: +30 (+5): Good. failed last rep and change-- 'bout where i failed with 5# less last time.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): fail last 3 reps. Humid.
2: -45 (+5): Failed last 3. Not horrible. figured if i could only hold on for 3ish reps i might as well make 'em heavier.
This was a good workout. Showed me how much difference a li'l extra friction makes. Still seeing some very happy gains.
Friday, September 18, 2015
Hangboard #5
So 5 of 9 done. I'd have a hard time calling this a good workout. Really pretty perfect weather. But i think i ate too much, or the wrong thing. Felt like vomiting through most of it. Did make a few gains, but incurred some regressions as well. I guess the pasta was a bit heavier than i expected, and i should'a' remembered the Tums first.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (same): No fail, but hard. Seriously wondering if i'm putting my hands in the same place. For this set i put my middle finger on the outer dimple. Maybe i should look that up.
2: +30 (same): Kinda failed at the end. Moved my hands inward a bit. Not sure.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): Failed last sec last rep--mostly tape slip i think. Only had f3,4 taped this time.
2: -25 (+5): Massive fail. Just really tired. think i could'a used another day of rest here. Not healed. Ended up moving to the next larger pocket to finish. Really awful.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail, which is an improvement.
2: -10 (same): Failed last 2 seconds--which, again, is an improvement. Did fight for it though.
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (same): No fail. Pretty easy. From the last workout i should have taken this up, but i think i was gun shy after feeling stale on the grips prior.
2: -15 (+5): No fail. ...Dunno; but i'm happy. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (same): No fail. Again, happiness. Bit cooler today which helps a ton on this grip.
2: -25 (+5): Failed last 1.5 reps. Really not bad.
Sloper:
1: BW: Can't seem to get past this. There's just something about that 7th rep. Failed at the last second, which probably is an improvement.
2: +25 (+5); Failed on the last rep. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): End of the last rep, which i believe is better.
2: -50 (same): Failed last two reps--still a li'l bit better i think.
I'd like to chalk this one up as a poor workout; but honestly i made some gains. Just had an acid stomach and can't help but feel like i would have gone better if i'd an extra day of rest. Who knows? i was way psyched to do this going in--been looking forward to it. Then i came home and ate too much. Absurd!
Ah well: i think i have a job as a routesetter at the college. That improves morale. :)
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (same): No fail, but hard. Seriously wondering if i'm putting my hands in the same place. For this set i put my middle finger on the outer dimple. Maybe i should look that up.
2: +30 (same): Kinda failed at the end. Moved my hands inward a bit. Not sure.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): Failed last sec last rep--mostly tape slip i think. Only had f3,4 taped this time.
2: -25 (+5): Massive fail. Just really tired. think i could'a used another day of rest here. Not healed. Ended up moving to the next larger pocket to finish. Really awful.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (same): No fail, which is an improvement.
2: -10 (same): Failed last 2 seconds--which, again, is an improvement. Did fight for it though.
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (same): No fail. Pretty easy. From the last workout i should have taken this up, but i think i was gun shy after feeling stale on the grips prior.
2: -15 (+5): No fail. ...Dunno; but i'm happy. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (same): No fail. Again, happiness. Bit cooler today which helps a ton on this grip.
2: -25 (+5): Failed last 1.5 reps. Really not bad.
Sloper:
1: BW: Can't seem to get past this. There's just something about that 7th rep. Failed at the last second, which probably is an improvement.
2: +25 (+5); Failed on the last rep. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (same): End of the last rep, which i believe is better.
2: -50 (same): Failed last two reps--still a li'l bit better i think.
I'd like to chalk this one up as a poor workout; but honestly i made some gains. Just had an acid stomach and can't help but feel like i would have gone better if i'd an extra day of rest. Who knows? i was way psyched to do this going in--been looking forward to it. Then i came home and ate too much. Absurd!
Ah well: i think i have a job as a routesetter at the college. That improves morale. :)
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Hangboard #4
Odd one. I'd have said up front that i really wasn't feeling it tonight. Kinda tired going out there. Turned out to be an ok workout, and gains were made; but i lost on a few. Ah well. Taped all 5 fingers, 'cuz i'm used to f 2 and 5 dragging on some of the grips, but it ain't necessary anymore.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (up 5#): No fail. Nice start.
2: +30 (up 5#): Failed last 2.5 reps. f5 tape was slipping. Don't tape this.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -30 (up 5#): Came off last second last rep. Not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (up 5#): Failed with tape slipping last couple.
2: -10 (same): Failed, really the last 3 reps. Don't know. Li'l humid maybe?
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (+5): Huh. No fail. Not too bad.
2: -20 (+5): No fail! Weird!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (+5): Failed last 2 reps, and couldn't figure out why. I thought i was keeping weight the same at -45, but i counted wrong. That made me feel a li'l bit better.
2: -30 (+5): Rad. Failed last rep...greasing off at the end. Not too bad. That puts me tidily past where i was in May.
Sloper:
1: BW (same): Failed last rep.
2: +15 (up 5#): No fail!?? i cannot explain this. It's like i just don't have enough chalk on for that seventh rep, but six is no problem. Totally mental i guess.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (+5): Failed last rep. whew. Made the executive decision to up it 5lbs at the last second, and i'm not at all sure it was a good one.
2: -50 (+5): Hm. Failed last 3ish. Bad way to end, but that does include 7 reps on this one. Really wasn't that bad.
Again, gains were made here. Can't help but think it might have been more profound if i'd summoned a li'l more amperage. Horses seem to like Yo-Yo Ma better than the heavier stuff, but i might have to dismiss their opinion next go round.
WUJ: -15: Fine.
Large Open:
1: +20 (up 5#): No fail. Nice start.
2: +30 (up 5#): Failed last 2.5 reps. f5 tape was slipping. Don't tape this.
F 2,3:
1: -40 (same): No fail.
2: -30 (up 5#): Came off last second last rep. Not bad.
SemiClosed:
1: -20 (up 5#): Failed with tape slipping last couple.
2: -10 (same): Failed, really the last 3 reps. Don't know. Li'l humid maybe?
F 2,3,4:
1: -30 (+5): Huh. No fail. Not too bad.
2: -20 (+5): No fail! Weird!
Wide Pinch:
1: -40 (+5): Failed last 2 reps, and couldn't figure out why. I thought i was keeping weight the same at -45, but i counted wrong. That made me feel a li'l bit better.
2: -30 (+5): Rad. Failed last rep...greasing off at the end. Not too bad. That puts me tidily past where i was in May.
Sloper:
1: BW (same): Failed last rep.
2: +15 (up 5#): No fail!?? i cannot explain this. It's like i just don't have enough chalk on for that seventh rep, but six is no problem. Totally mental i guess.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -60 (+5): Failed last rep. whew. Made the executive decision to up it 5lbs at the last second, and i'm not at all sure it was a good one.
2: -50 (+5): Hm. Failed last 3ish. Bad way to end, but that does include 7 reps on this one. Really wasn't that bad.
Again, gains were made here. Can't help but think it might have been more profound if i'd summoned a li'l more amperage. Horses seem to like Yo-Yo Ma better than the heavier stuff, but i might have to dismiss their opinion next go round.
Sunday, September 13, 2015
Hangboard # 3
This was a good workout. (Happened yesterday, 9/12/15). Think i've maybe knocked the rust off, and'm back to making some gains. Super psyched about that.
WUJ: -15: Check.
Large Open:
1: +15: this is a 5# incr. No fail.
2: +25: Again 5# up. No fail :))
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Here i went to the shallowest pocket. 'Bout nailed the weight on this. Hard.
2: -35: No fail!! This hurt. Very hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: Same here. no fail. i think i untaped f4.
2: -10: This was a 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. This was happy sauce. Very surprised (and happy) to get this after the beating i took on the 2,3 pocket.
F 2,3,4:
1: -35: Again, went the shallowest pocket here. And again, felt like the weight was pretty right on. No fail.
2: -25: No fail!! Hard last rep, but this was encouraging. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. no fail. This has me back where i left off in May, with maybe more gas in the tank.
2: -35: Again, a 5# incr. failed last 3 secs of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: BW: This was a >5# incr. Failed last 2 reps.
2: +10: 5# incr. Failed at the end of last rep. Odd. Back to where i was in May. good one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -65: 'Nuther 5# incr. No fail >))
2: -55: Again, 5# up. Failed last second last rep. That'd be a pretty solid PR. :)
Very good workout.
WUJ: -15: Check.
Large Open:
1: +15: this is a 5# incr. No fail.
2: +25: Again 5# up. No fail :))
F 2,3:
1: -40: No fail. Here i went to the shallowest pocket. 'Bout nailed the weight on this. Hard.
2: -35: No fail!! This hurt. Very hard.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: Same here. no fail. i think i untaped f4.
2: -10: This was a 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. This was happy sauce. Very surprised (and happy) to get this after the beating i took on the 2,3 pocket.
F 2,3,4:
1: -35: Again, went the shallowest pocket here. And again, felt like the weight was pretty right on. No fail.
2: -25: No fail!! Hard last rep, but this was encouraging. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. no fail. This has me back where i left off in May, with maybe more gas in the tank.
2: -35: Again, a 5# incr. failed last 3 secs of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: BW: This was a >5# incr. Failed last 2 reps.
2: +10: 5# incr. Failed at the end of last rep. Odd. Back to where i was in May. good one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -65: 'Nuther 5# incr. No fail >))
2: -55: Again, 5# up. Failed last second last rep. That'd be a pretty solid PR. :)
Very good workout.
Wednesday, September 9, 2015
Differn't Deal (Hangboard #2)
Seriously helped to be rested and to have done no prior climbing for this go. This was a good session. Weighed in post workout at just over 200lbs, so no help there.
WUJ: -15: Better.
Large Open:
1: +10: Better. No fail.
2: +20: No fail. fairly hard. Had f2 pretaped for these, and that helped a bit. Puts me within range of where i left off in May.
F3,4:
1: -25: No fail. Meant to go to -20, but it worked out. Felt i was slipping on f4 tape, so i untaped after.
2: -15: No fail, which is way betta than last round. Very painful on f4 without tape. Thinkin' i should go to the shallower pocket next time. This feels like it digs into my tendons.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No fail!! F3 to outer dimple.
2: -15: Failed at the end of the last rep. Happy! That puts me pretty much at where i stopped in May.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: No fail. very painful on f2. Taped f2 after that.
2: +10: Failed on the last two reps. Less painful, but slippy. Again, i'm thinkin' i'll go to a shallower pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: No fail! Almost back to baseline!
2: -40: Failed last second of last rep. :/
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: No fail. Huh. Neeeearly back..
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: No fail!! That looks to be an uptick from May.
2: -60: And that looks to be a PR. Actually failed on the last rep, then found that i'd programmed 7 reps into the last set. Good times.
Good workout. I gather it's a bit cooler now than mid-May, so that's helping my cause. But i surely ain't any lighter. Lookin' at a potential for some nice gains here.
WUJ: -15: Better.
Large Open:
1: +10: Better. No fail.
2: +20: No fail. fairly hard. Had f2 pretaped for these, and that helped a bit. Puts me within range of where i left off in May.
F3,4:
1: -25: No fail. Meant to go to -20, but it worked out. Felt i was slipping on f4 tape, so i untaped after.
2: -15: No fail, which is way betta than last round. Very painful on f4 without tape. Thinkin' i should go to the shallower pocket next time. This feels like it digs into my tendons.
SemiClosed:
1: -25: No fail!! F3 to outer dimple.
2: -15: Failed at the end of the last rep. Happy! That puts me pretty much at where i stopped in May.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: No fail. very painful on f2. Taped f2 after that.
2: +10: Failed on the last two reps. Less painful, but slippy. Again, i'm thinkin' i'll go to a shallower pocket.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: No fail! Almost back to baseline!
2: -40: Failed last second of last rep. :/
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: No fail. Huh. Neeeearly back..
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: No fail!! That looks to be an uptick from May.
2: -60: And that looks to be a PR. Actually failed on the last rep, then found that i'd programmed 7 reps into the last set. Good times.
Good workout. I gather it's a bit cooler now than mid-May, so that's helping my cause. But i surely ain't any lighter. Lookin' at a potential for some nice gains here.
Saturday, September 5, 2015
Remediation
Gotta say this was a weird season. 'Fact, i'm not quite sure what season i'm on here. Was reading back through posts and i finished campusing last season on June 10th. . . . . Almost 3 months later i'm beginning hangboarding again.
Reckon that last "sending" bit was a smidge protracted by a month or two, even though i don't think i went and projected on rock at all; and only got on real rock maybe thrice.
Anyhow, i did get in some pretty decent PE work once i figured out how at the gym: Since there really aren't any useful boulder problems, i linked up some fairly short but stout toprope problems. Worked out really pretty nicely.
I did, though, finally call it, and restarted a new season. It was getting far enough along that i was loath to take two full weeks off; and i do hope i don't regret that. So far, i've got in all the ARCing (2 weeks of it) and just did the first hangboard sesh tonight. I could tell it'd been too long, 'cuz i couldn't remember e.g. taping sequence, etc. and my hands felt--frayed. A bad sign for the first session. But i did boulder this afternoon, and probably went a bit hard. I lost some ground to last season's end, which i'd expect; but it wasn't horrible. Of note, i haven't picked up a weight in a terribly long time. Quit deadlifting about when i got into campusing last season.
Here's hangboard #1 (which now would've happened yesterday: 9/5/15).
WUJ: -15: Check. hands're tired.
Large Open:
1: +10: Ok, but i taped f2,5 afterward. pretty painful.
2: +10: These were 7.5 and 17.5# regressions respectively. Failed anyhow 'cuz taped slipped.
F2,3 Pocket:
1: -25: Failed 'cuz of tape slip
2: -20: Failed last two r, although i untaped f4. this made it very painful
SemiClosed:
1: -40: No fail. Pretty solid.
2: -30: No fail. Pretty hard at the end. Very encouraging.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: total fail last 2 r. Hurtin' here.
2: -10: Made for a huge regression, but no fail. I'm OK starting back. Skin was really hurting.
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Nice feeling. Not too far off of where I left last time.
2: -55: No fail! That's what i got for the first set last go round.
Sloper:
1: -15: No fail, but jus' berly though. I'll take it :)
2: -10: No fail. Whew! Hard last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard last, but no fail.
2: -75: Very hard, but no fail! :))
Yeah. Not a bad start. Gotta take time to heal the skin, and i'm gun' hafta get my head back into training, but i'm not so far off that it's hopeless. Could see some gains this season.
Reckon that last "sending" bit was a smidge protracted by a month or two, even though i don't think i went and projected on rock at all; and only got on real rock maybe thrice.
Anyhow, i did get in some pretty decent PE work once i figured out how at the gym: Since there really aren't any useful boulder problems, i linked up some fairly short but stout toprope problems. Worked out really pretty nicely.
I did, though, finally call it, and restarted a new season. It was getting far enough along that i was loath to take two full weeks off; and i do hope i don't regret that. So far, i've got in all the ARCing (2 weeks of it) and just did the first hangboard sesh tonight. I could tell it'd been too long, 'cuz i couldn't remember e.g. taping sequence, etc. and my hands felt--frayed. A bad sign for the first session. But i did boulder this afternoon, and probably went a bit hard. I lost some ground to last season's end, which i'd expect; but it wasn't horrible. Of note, i haven't picked up a weight in a terribly long time. Quit deadlifting about when i got into campusing last season.
Here's hangboard #1 (which now would've happened yesterday: 9/5/15).
WUJ: -15: Check. hands're tired.
Large Open:
1: +10: Ok, but i taped f2,5 afterward. pretty painful.
2: +10: These were 7.5 and 17.5# regressions respectively. Failed anyhow 'cuz taped slipped.
F2,3 Pocket:
1: -25: Failed 'cuz of tape slip
2: -20: Failed last two r, although i untaped f4. this made it very painful
SemiClosed:
1: -40: No fail. Pretty solid.
2: -30: No fail. Pretty hard at the end. Very encouraging.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: total fail last 2 r. Hurtin' here.
2: -10: Made for a huge regression, but no fail. I'm OK starting back. Skin was really hurting.
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Nice feeling. Not too far off of where I left last time.
2: -55: No fail! That's what i got for the first set last go round.
Sloper:
1: -15: No fail, but jus' berly though. I'll take it :)
2: -10: No fail. Whew! Hard last one.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard last, but no fail.
2: -75: Very hard, but no fail! :))
Yeah. Not a bad start. Gotta take time to heal the skin, and i'm gun' hafta get my head back into training, but i'm not so far off that it's hopeless. Could see some gains this season.
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
Campus #5 and some routes
Tonight was Campus 5. The warmup, i could say, was really good--encouraging even. But i think it might'a' been a smidge too hard a warmup. This was the last one for the season, and i think i went backwards a bit-- starting to lose some ground. So it works out that it's time to move to PE phase.
Same basic warmup and workout as last time, but i don't think i ever stuck the match with 1-4-5 on the mediums leading Right. Been a few days now, so i mostly just 'member is was a less-than-satisfactory session. Still a good finger thrashing, and no injury.
That was wednesday (6/10 i think). Yesterday (6/13) i went to the gym and just did routes. Power level is ver' high; Enduro level is ver' not there. Got some ground to make up if i'm gun' get any routes this season, but i can fa sho' pull on some holds i couldn't have considered seriously 6 months ago. Looking forward to wrapping the new, improved tendons in some vasculature. That, i expect, will come a li'l quicker.
Same basic warmup and workout as last time, but i don't think i ever stuck the match with 1-4-5 on the mediums leading Right. Been a few days now, so i mostly just 'member is was a less-than-satisfactory session. Still a good finger thrashing, and no injury.
That was wednesday (6/10 i think). Yesterday (6/13) i went to the gym and just did routes. Power level is ver' high; Enduro level is ver' not there. Got some ground to make up if i'm gun' get any routes this season, but i can fa sho' pull on some holds i couldn't have considered seriously 6 months ago. Looking forward to wrapping the new, improved tendons in some vasculature. That, i expect, will come a li'l quicker.
Friday, June 5, 2015
Campus #4
Crazy that this was only the 4th campus sesh. I really though it was the 5th. Stayed right on schedule this time 'round, and i seem to be handling it ok. Left elbow feels a li'l tweaky, but doesn't really hurt. This was an interesting experiment. Went to the climbgym for some boulderin' to warm up, and honestly overdid it. Very tricky line to walk at that wall. There aren't really any grades there to work through. Good place for ARCing (which i did for a while), but then all the boulder problems are either uselessly easy or just hard. Nothing in between--which is odd, 'cuz most of the routesetters can't climb 'em. There are no v2s or v3s on that wall. Super strange. Anyhow, ended up working a couple o' problems, which was fine; but i think i heavy-crimped past the point of "springiness" for campusing. Still: not a bad seshion. Can say i made some progress in spite of being tired. I forgot to take paper with me, so i'm doing this from memory.
XXL) Basic ladder B.
L)
Tried a ladder skipping rungs like last sesh, and fell on my butt. Just went to the meaty bits after that.
1, 4, 6, M
Believe i failed B first go. Got it B second go.
M)
Tried 1, 4, M first and failed. Kinda infuriating; so i just went to 1, 4, 5, M
Got it first try leading L, but failed 3 attempts leading R. Then i got 'er. Very satisfying.
Tried 1, 4, 6 B, but really didn't get close with either hand. Definitely feeling the over-doneness on this one.
S)
Tried 1, 2, M and failed but for a hefty dab. So i thought: What if i just go for 1, 3. Actually stuck it leading L! That's huge! Couldn't manage to stick leading R cuz i couldn't get enough height on the pullup. Again, kinda cooked from bouldering too long. But i could snag pretty easily with both hands if i just jumped. So the sticking power is definitely there; just gotta come at it somewhat fresh.
Anyhow, lesson learned: gotta turn the volume down a bit on the warmup. Also was really clear tonight that a lot of campusing is just convincing m'self to go for it.
For the record, weighed in at 200 and change dressed tonight. Was 195.0# this morning first thing.
XXL) Basic ladder B.
L)
Tried a ladder skipping rungs like last sesh, and fell on my butt. Just went to the meaty bits after that.
1, 4, 6, M
Believe i failed B first go. Got it B second go.
M)
Tried 1, 4, M first and failed. Kinda infuriating; so i just went to 1, 4, 5, M
Got it first try leading L, but failed 3 attempts leading R. Then i got 'er. Very satisfying.
Tried 1, 4, 6 B, but really didn't get close with either hand. Definitely feeling the over-doneness on this one.
S)
Tried 1, 2, M and failed but for a hefty dab. So i thought: What if i just go for 1, 3. Actually stuck it leading L! That's huge! Couldn't manage to stick leading R cuz i couldn't get enough height on the pullup. Again, kinda cooked from bouldering too long. But i could snag pretty easily with both hands if i just jumped. So the sticking power is definitely there; just gotta come at it somewhat fresh.
Anyhow, lesson learned: gotta turn the volume down a bit on the warmup. Also was really clear tonight that a lot of campusing is just convincing m'self to go for it.
For the record, weighed in at 200 and change dressed tonight. Was 195.0# this morning first thing.
Thursday, June 4, 2015
"Limit Boulder" #3
Went to the gym for a warmup for limiting at home last night, and only had 30mins to workout. Did a hardish problem or two, got home home and felt'nt like hitting the wall. So i can hardly call it a limit boulder sesh. But i did at least undergo some climbing-esque motions with my hands. Ah well... Mebbe i'll be extra springy for Campusing manana. That'd be just fine. And i weighed in at 195 and change this morning, so i'm holding onto a downward trend. Happy sauce.
Sunday, May 31, 2015
Limit Boulder 2 and Campus #3
Looks like i didn't get around to posting on the second Limit Boulder session--woulda been Friday, 5/29. Honestly not a session, although i'm still hashing out problems. Really don't have The Problem worked out yet. So i mostly piddled around with some stuff; but it was a good workout. Do think i'm'a hafta take some decent shoes down with me for the next round. the Miuras have no toes left, and that ain't cutting it on tiny feet.
Did Campus #3 tonight. Went out super tired from going to bed way late the 3 or 4 nights prior, and totally knew it was gunna be a waste of time. But it wasn't. Was yet another very large step forward (to my surprise and general smileyness). And i weighed in dressed at 200.6#, which made it more satisfying still, 'cuz that has me about a pound heavier than last time.
XL)
basic ladders.
L)
This time i did a basic ladder, 1-3-5-7-M B.
Straight to 1-4-6.
1: Failed B first go.
2: Failed leading L, stuck leading R.
3: Same. Failed L, stuck it R.
4: There! Stuck it L. Skipped with R to move to smaller rungs.
M)
1-4M: Stuck this with both hands leading first go. Not very hard :)
1-4-5M
1: Stuck L leading first try!! Missed with R. Hmm
2: This time i missed with L, but stuck with R. i'll take it!
S)
1-2M: Stuck L and dabbed for the match. Better! Li'l dab on both with R.
1-3: Touched it easily, but didn't stick. This'll go shortly, methinks.
1-2M: Dabbed for it B. This is getting easier.
M)
Went back to the medium rungs here and tried some doubles. Kindof a cool feeling, 'cuz i really couldn't even meaningfully hang from these 6 months ago. Jumped and double-clutched the 4th rung easily. Didn't get a solid double dyno, but it feels doable. Mighty fine workout.
Did Campus #3 tonight. Went out super tired from going to bed way late the 3 or 4 nights prior, and totally knew it was gunna be a waste of time. But it wasn't. Was yet another very large step forward (to my surprise and general smileyness). And i weighed in dressed at 200.6#, which made it more satisfying still, 'cuz that has me about a pound heavier than last time.
XL)
basic ladders.
L)
This time i did a basic ladder, 1-3-5-7-M B.
Straight to 1-4-6.
1: Failed B first go.
2: Failed leading L, stuck leading R.
3: Same. Failed L, stuck it R.
4: There! Stuck it L. Skipped with R to move to smaller rungs.
M)
1-4M: Stuck this with both hands leading first go. Not very hard :)
1-4-5M
1: Stuck L leading first try!! Missed with R. Hmm
2: This time i missed with L, but stuck with R. i'll take it!
S)
1-2M: Stuck L and dabbed for the match. Better! Li'l dab on both with R.
1-3: Touched it easily, but didn't stick. This'll go shortly, methinks.
1-2M: Dabbed for it B. This is getting easier.
M)
Went back to the medium rungs here and tried some doubles. Kindof a cool feeling, 'cuz i really couldn't even meaningfully hang from these 6 months ago. Jumped and double-clutched the 4th rung easily. Didn't get a solid double dyno, but it feels doable. Mighty fine workout.
Wednesday, May 27, 2015
Campus #2
Got campus sesh 2 in last night. Changed things up a bit with fairly spectacular results. Had very low expectations after Sunday's boulder session-- largely cuz i ended up just tearing me down. Went in yesterday to the climbgym for a warmup, and felt pretty tired to begin. But i think that worked out ok, 'cuz i didn't stick around too long to kill it bouldering. Did some easy arcing, and then ended up giving 3 or 4 tries to a limit problem. Was afraid i'd thrashed the crimpers, but it worked out to be a perfect warmup. Got home and did the usual p'lups, rows, dips and piddling on the hangboard. then to the Campus sticks.
XXL) Basic ladder, B hands leading.
XL) Skipped these :)
L)
1, 3B, 5, M. Jumped ahead here from last sesh. Just fine.
1, 4B, 5, M Real nice.
1, 4L, 6, M... STICK!! Felt fairly easy.
1, 4R, 6 Failed to stick 6, but got it second go. Happy. :)
M)
1, 3B, 4, M. Not easy leading L, but got it. Actually did feel pretty easy leading R.
1, 4, M: Ok, another mile of progress here! Did three sets of these with each hand leading. The first two sets i missed the match with L leading, but stuck the match R. Third set i was tired and missed the match with both hands. But i couldn't even stick the 4th rung with a lead hand 5 days ago. I can actually imagine making some progress on these over the next coupla weeks; 'specially if i can lose some weight.
S)
1, 2B, M. Did two sets of these with mat dabs for help. Getting tired here; but i'm not too far away from actually moving my tubby butt up the wall on these.
This was absolutely a shot in the arm... totally beyond expectation. I think it helped to cut some of the extraneous stuff out, like the XL rungs. But i was still up probably 3-4lbs from the last sesh (due to nearly constant grazing on garbage over the weekend), and i was still noticeably broken down from the bouldering sesh the few days prior. So however i look at it, this was a step upward. There is hope
XXL) Basic ladder, B hands leading.
XL) Skipped these :)
L)
1, 3B, 5, M. Jumped ahead here from last sesh. Just fine.
1, 4B, 5, M Real nice.
1, 4L, 6, M... STICK!! Felt fairly easy.
1, 4R, 6 Failed to stick 6, but got it second go. Happy. :)
M)
1, 3B, 4, M. Not easy leading L, but got it. Actually did feel pretty easy leading R.
1, 4, M: Ok, another mile of progress here! Did three sets of these with each hand leading. The first two sets i missed the match with L leading, but stuck the match R. Third set i was tired and missed the match with both hands. But i couldn't even stick the 4th rung with a lead hand 5 days ago. I can actually imagine making some progress on these over the next coupla weeks; 'specially if i can lose some weight.
S)
1, 2B, M. Did two sets of these with mat dabs for help. Getting tired here; but i'm not too far away from actually moving my tubby butt up the wall on these.
This was absolutely a shot in the arm... totally beyond expectation. I think it helped to cut some of the extraneous stuff out, like the XL rungs. But i was still up probably 3-4lbs from the last sesh (due to nearly constant grazing on garbage over the weekend), and i was still noticeably broken down from the bouldering sesh the few days prior. So however i look at it, this was a step upward. There is hope
Monday, May 25, 2015
Campus #1 and Limit(ish) boulder #1 [Season 3]
Got in campus session numma one on 5/21. Ended up doing this on day 4 after hangboarding, 'stead of day 3, and it worked out just fine. Ah yeah: Went and did a "warmup boulder ladder" for it the day before, and got home late from church and didn't get to campus. Worked out very well, 'cuz i really needed that extra day to regenerate soft tissue. Had a pretty encouraging first campusing as a result.
Yesterday (5/24) got to go to Stone Age for some "limit bouldering". I honestly got sidetracked just doing problems warming up, and didn't really get around to the "limit" bit. But i'm okay with that. It was fun, and i tore down some tendon without injury. Almost overwhelming to climb at a wall where the routes make some kind of sense and are fun. Ended up tearing down 3 v5s in a coupla tries per (which is prolly a PR for me) and an handful of 4s. Actually had a hard time finding an appropriate limit problem. Really hafta have your antennae up for the right sequence--'specially in a huge gym with nearly-unlimited potentials and holds. Did do some heavy damage to the crux of a v7 (which i think would go) but it wasn't a good limit problem, interestingly. Actually think i'll be able to make a better go of the limit stuff on my home wall. Kinda looking forward to it next time. And in spite of clocking in at a rotund 200#, i felt pretty monstrous strong at it. Super encouraging! The hangboarding payeth off! Now to get on with losing a stone or so...
Back to the campus sesh:
Gunna include the warmup on this one for future reference. Did some pullups (13 usually), rows on the rings, dips on the rings; then played around on my wall and hangboard to wake up the piggies. Taped up F 3&4 to begin, which i eventually stripped--although it didn't hurt anything.
XXL) Did a coupla basic ladders and felt mighty good. Then to max ladders.
XL)
1, 3, 4, match B. No problem.
1, 4, 5, match B. Pretty easy. Didn't try 1,4,6. Wanted to save it for the smaller rungs.
L)
1, 3, 4, match B. Ok.
1, 3, 5, match B. Again, got these both hands leading easily first go. Pretty encouraging.
1, 4, 5 match B. Easy.
1: 1, 4, 6: Touched the 6th rung with both hands, but didn't get over the top.
2: 1, 4, 6: This time i spun the wrong way off my post hand. i think i'll have this soon.
3: 1, 4, 6: Tried again 'cuz i don't know when to quit. Li'l stale.
M)
1, 3, 4 match B. Easy. This is where i worked up to last season, so definitely a shot in the arm to feel cozy on these first sesh in, 3.5 months later.
Tried 1, 4, 5 three or four time with each hand leading, but i couldn't quiiiiite stick 1, 4. That will go, and it'll be tidy progress.
S) Hung for a while on these. Was tired when i got to 'em, so i couldn't really move. But they don't feel nearly as intimidating as they did last season. That, by itself, is an uptick.
Good start. Session #2 comes tomorrow.
Yesterday (5/24) got to go to Stone Age for some "limit bouldering". I honestly got sidetracked just doing problems warming up, and didn't really get around to the "limit" bit. But i'm okay with that. It was fun, and i tore down some tendon without injury. Almost overwhelming to climb at a wall where the routes make some kind of sense and are fun. Ended up tearing down 3 v5s in a coupla tries per (which is prolly a PR for me) and an handful of 4s. Actually had a hard time finding an appropriate limit problem. Really hafta have your antennae up for the right sequence--'specially in a huge gym with nearly-unlimited potentials and holds. Did do some heavy damage to the crux of a v7 (which i think would go) but it wasn't a good limit problem, interestingly. Actually think i'll be able to make a better go of the limit stuff on my home wall. Kinda looking forward to it next time. And in spite of clocking in at a rotund 200#, i felt pretty monstrous strong at it. Super encouraging! The hangboarding payeth off! Now to get on with losing a stone or so...
Back to the campus sesh:
Gunna include the warmup on this one for future reference. Did some pullups (13 usually), rows on the rings, dips on the rings; then played around on my wall and hangboard to wake up the piggies. Taped up F 3&4 to begin, which i eventually stripped--although it didn't hurt anything.
XXL) Did a coupla basic ladders and felt mighty good. Then to max ladders.
XL)
1, 3, 4, match B. No problem.
1, 4, 5, match B. Pretty easy. Didn't try 1,4,6. Wanted to save it for the smaller rungs.
L)
1, 3, 4, match B. Ok.
1, 3, 5, match B. Again, got these both hands leading easily first go. Pretty encouraging.
1, 4, 5 match B. Easy.
1: 1, 4, 6: Touched the 6th rung with both hands, but didn't get over the top.
2: 1, 4, 6: This time i spun the wrong way off my post hand. i think i'll have this soon.
3: 1, 4, 6: Tried again 'cuz i don't know when to quit. Li'l stale.
M)
1, 3, 4 match B. Easy. This is where i worked up to last season, so definitely a shot in the arm to feel cozy on these first sesh in, 3.5 months later.
Tried 1, 4, 5 three or four time with each hand leading, but i couldn't quiiiiite stick 1, 4. That will go, and it'll be tidy progress.
S) Hung for a while on these. Was tired when i got to 'em, so i couldn't really move. But they don't feel nearly as intimidating as they did last season. That, by itself, is an uptick.
Good start. Session #2 comes tomorrow.
Sunday, May 17, 2015
Hangboard #9 (Season 3)
Another fairly hot day to end hangboarding on. Can't say i made any really jaw-dropping progress from last time to today, but it went pretty well. Amazing how long 7 seconds can seem when you're maxed out and can feel your skin rending. And amazing how much difference 10 or so degrees of temp can make. Starting to understand why folks climb in the snow.
This time i taped F2 so's to save as many skin cells as possible. Worked for a while.
WUJ: -15: Fine. Didn't drop my hands, and that makes a difference.
Large Open:
1: +17.5: Same. No fail. Hot.
2: +27.5: Same, 'cept i failed at the veeeery end of the last rep; so an improvement (if a small one).
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -10: Hot. Slippin', but no fail.
2: BW: Started a hair late on the last two reps, but no fail-- so better. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: Really failed last 3 or 4 reps. Taped was slipping. Untaped F2 after this one.
2: -10: Whew! Failed last 3ish reps, but i forgot to clip in for the first one. Hurtin' here.
F 2,3,4:
1: +15: This was a 5# incr. Sweating. Big ol' fail last 1.5 reps.
2: +25: Again, 5# incr. Failed last 1.5 reps, but good 'til then.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Same weight. Sorta failed at the very end. Really hot.
2: -35: Same. Failed last 1.5 reps. Coulda used a rechalking here. Not bad really.
Sloper:
1: BW: Failed last 1.5 reps. yeah.
2: +10: Failed at the end of the last rep. Odd that. Made a point to blow on my hands and shake out between every rep, which seemed to help.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: Failed end of last rep.
2: -60: This was a 5# regression. Still failed at the end, but it was better than last workout.
Easy to get hung up on the smallish changes from workout to workout; but i went back and looked at the first workout this season, and i added from 15 to 25+ lbs to every grip. To be fair, i'm almost 5# lighter now than i was then, but that's still pretty reasonable progress in under a month of training. Makes me wonder what could happen if i didn't take months in between strength sessions. I'd really like to flex some discipline and protract the sending season this time, and start over sooner. Might find i could crush stuff i can't really imagine just now.
Anyhow, enough hanging. It's on to Power! :))
This time i taped F2 so's to save as many skin cells as possible. Worked for a while.
WUJ: -15: Fine. Didn't drop my hands, and that makes a difference.
Large Open:
1: +17.5: Same. No fail. Hot.
2: +27.5: Same, 'cept i failed at the veeeery end of the last rep; so an improvement (if a small one).
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -10: Hot. Slippin', but no fail.
2: BW: Started a hair late on the last two reps, but no fail-- so better. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: Really failed last 3 or 4 reps. Taped was slipping. Untaped F2 after this one.
2: -10: Whew! Failed last 3ish reps, but i forgot to clip in for the first one. Hurtin' here.
F 2,3,4:
1: +15: This was a 5# incr. Sweating. Big ol' fail last 1.5 reps.
2: +25: Again, 5# incr. Failed last 1.5 reps, but good 'til then.
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: Same weight. Sorta failed at the very end. Really hot.
2: -35: Same. Failed last 1.5 reps. Coulda used a rechalking here. Not bad really.
Sloper:
1: BW: Failed last 1.5 reps. yeah.
2: +10: Failed at the end of the last rep. Odd that. Made a point to blow on my hands and shake out between every rep, which seemed to help.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: Failed end of last rep.
2: -60: This was a 5# regression. Still failed at the end, but it was better than last workout.
Easy to get hung up on the smallish changes from workout to workout; but i went back and looked at the first workout this season, and i added from 15 to 25+ lbs to every grip. To be fair, i'm almost 5# lighter now than i was then, but that's still pretty reasonable progress in under a month of training. Makes me wonder what could happen if i didn't take months in between strength sessions. I'd really like to flex some discipline and protract the sending season this time, and start over sooner. Might find i could crush stuff i can't really imagine just now.
Anyhow, enough hanging. It's on to Power! :))
Saturday, May 16, 2015
Backwork and Hangboard #8
Interesting evening of it yesterday (5/14/15). Weighed in at 199.4 clothed, but pre-shoes and harness. Several variables were different, which seemed to affect things--mostly negatively. Honestly not bad workouts, but i felt way tired and the ten or so degrees' heat diff did bad things to friction. And stacking the hangboarding atop the deads really didn't work out well. Gunna hafta nix that idea for future workouts. Different hand muscles being taxed notwithstanding, my hands were not crisp or fresh. Also my skin is wearing thin-- this played heavily into the hangboard workout. 'S getting painful, and on some of these i really expected to fillet me a flapper 'fore the timer went off. No flappers yet. One more to go.
Enough whining. Progressive overload was achieved even if i didn't get any spectacular new highs. In fact, i ended up kinda sandbagging on the iron so's not to be overly trashed for hangs. And i increased the weight on hangs on almost every grip-- just ended up failing a lot. Which is generally the goal.
Deficit Deads:
21 floor touches
21 x the bar
12 x 145
8 x 245
5 x 345 (chalked here)
2 x 395 (No belt)
1 x 445 (Fairly easy)
Try with 495 (Stalled below my knees. Really not a great effort. Distracted)
G'Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175
P'lups;
26 x BW
2 x 8ish x +25 (think i got 9 on the 1st set)
2 x 5 x +45 (got 6 on the 2nd set. Don't feel like i've made gains here, but i prolly have, and no injuries or tendonitis so far. Hoping to go into Campusing a bit stronger than last time 'round.)
DB Rows:
10 x 95 (Stopped here 'cuz my hand were getting tired)
Later that day...
Warmup Jug: -15. Great.
Large Open:
1: +17.5. Ugh. No fail. 2.5# incr.
2: +27.5. 'Nother 2.5# incr. Failed at the end of the last rep. Feelin' those deads here.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -10: 5# incr. Not exactly a fail, but painful.
2: BW: Also a 5# incr. Failed very end of last rep! Not bad! But very painful. maybe tape f4? This cam mighty close to tearing my skin.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: 5# incr. Failed on last rep cuz f1 skin was peeling.
2: -10: Another 5# incr. Failed on last 2 reps. Definitely hotter and skin was failing. But this put me within 5# of where i was on the much larger part of the hold. Li'l bit amped about this.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: +10: 5# incr. Still pretty easy.
2: +20: 5# incr. Rad! No fail! :))
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. Failed last second of last rep. Feelin' those deads on this un.
2; -35: 2.5# incr. Failed last 2 reps with a massive fail on the last. :)
\
Sloper:
1: BW: i think this is the only grip i didn't bump weight on. Failed on the last rep. That's an improvement!
2: +10: Same again. Failed last rep about 1/2way through. Ok.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: 5# incr. Failed ind of last rep.
2: -55: 5# incr. Big fail on the last 3 reps. Yeah...hands were not whole, and it was a li'l bit warmer. Bad combo for this grip.
Right: so mixed feelings after that un. But no denyin' i've made some solid gains this season. Goal for the next sesh is to not tear my skin. Also gunna start dieting again this week.
Enough whining. Progressive overload was achieved even if i didn't get any spectacular new highs. In fact, i ended up kinda sandbagging on the iron so's not to be overly trashed for hangs. And i increased the weight on hangs on almost every grip-- just ended up failing a lot. Which is generally the goal.
Deficit Deads:
21 floor touches
21 x the bar
12 x 145
8 x 245
5 x 345 (chalked here)
2 x 395 (No belt)
1 x 445 (Fairly easy)
Try with 495 (Stalled below my knees. Really not a great effort. Distracted)
G'Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175
P'lups;
26 x BW
2 x 8ish x +25 (think i got 9 on the 1st set)
2 x 5 x +45 (got 6 on the 2nd set. Don't feel like i've made gains here, but i prolly have, and no injuries or tendonitis so far. Hoping to go into Campusing a bit stronger than last time 'round.)
DB Rows:
10 x 95 (Stopped here 'cuz my hand were getting tired)
Later that day...
Warmup Jug: -15. Great.
Large Open:
1: +17.5. Ugh. No fail. 2.5# incr.
2: +27.5. 'Nother 2.5# incr. Failed at the end of the last rep. Feelin' those deads here.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -10: 5# incr. Not exactly a fail, but painful.
2: BW: Also a 5# incr. Failed very end of last rep! Not bad! But very painful. maybe tape f4? This cam mighty close to tearing my skin.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: 5# incr. Failed on last rep cuz f1 skin was peeling.
2: -10: Another 5# incr. Failed on last 2 reps. Definitely hotter and skin was failing. But this put me within 5# of where i was on the much larger part of the hold. Li'l bit amped about this.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: +10: 5# incr. Still pretty easy.
2: +20: 5# incr. Rad! No fail! :))
Wide Pinch:
1: -45: 5# incr. Failed last second of last rep. Feelin' those deads on this un.
2; -35: 2.5# incr. Failed last 2 reps with a massive fail on the last. :)
\
Sloper:
1: BW: i think this is the only grip i didn't bump weight on. Failed on the last rep. That's an improvement!
2: +10: Same again. Failed last rep about 1/2way through. Ok.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: 5# incr. Failed ind of last rep.
2: -55: 5# incr. Big fail on the last 3 reps. Yeah...hands were not whole, and it was a li'l bit warmer. Bad combo for this grip.
Right: so mixed feelings after that un. But no denyin' i've made some solid gains this season. Goal for the next sesh is to not tear my skin. Also gunna start dieting again this week.
Monday, May 11, 2015
Hangboard #7
Seven down, two to go. This was a good workout. Honestly didn't feel like going out there and doing it, but it was a blessedly cool night-- actually made some tasty gains.
Warmup Jug: -15. peachy.
Large Open Hand:
1: +15: No fail, but Bleh! Hard.
2: +25: No fail! That's an incr. Untaped f5 for this 'un, which helped. Tips feel glassy.
[retape f5]
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: No fail...which makes an incr.
2: -5: No fail. Painful, but ok. Might bump 'er up next time.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -25: 5# incr. No fail. Untaped f5 for this. Bit hard. :)
2: -15: 'Nother 5# incr. !!No Fail!!! Yeahhaw!
[Retape 5]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: +5: this was a 10# incr. Not too bad. :)
2: +15: No fail. Again. Increase. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: 10# incr there. Sting 'n' a burn but no fail.
2: -37.5: 2.5# incr. Failed propa' on that last rep.
Sloper:
1: BW: >5# incr. Failed on the last 2 reps. Hmm.
2: +10: Same as last time. Failed halfway through the last rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: This was a 2.5# incr. Just fine.
2: -60: 5# incr here. Can't make sense of it, but no fail! Woot!! Increase again...
Getting within range on some of these grips that i could actually see a real translation to the campus board or the rock. Very encouraging workout tonight. Even though i felt like my guts were coming apart, a very encouraging workout. Seriously pleased.
Warmup Jug: -15. peachy.
Large Open Hand:
1: +15: No fail, but Bleh! Hard.
2: +25: No fail! That's an incr. Untaped f5 for this 'un, which helped. Tips feel glassy.
[retape f5]
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: No fail...which makes an incr.
2: -5: No fail. Painful, but ok. Might bump 'er up next time.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -25: 5# incr. No fail. Untaped f5 for this. Bit hard. :)
2: -15: 'Nother 5# incr. !!No Fail!!! Yeahhaw!
[Retape 5]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: +5: this was a 10# incr. Not too bad. :)
2: +15: No fail. Again. Increase. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: 10# incr there. Sting 'n' a burn but no fail.
2: -37.5: 2.5# incr. Failed propa' on that last rep.
Sloper:
1: BW: >5# incr. Failed on the last 2 reps. Hmm.
2: +10: Same as last time. Failed halfway through the last rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -75: This was a 2.5# incr. Just fine.
2: -60: 5# incr here. Can't make sense of it, but no fail! Woot!! Increase again...
Getting within range on some of these grips that i could actually see a real translation to the campus board or the rock. Very encouraging workout tonight. Even though i felt like my guts were coming apart, a very encouraging workout. Seriously pleased.
Friday, May 8, 2015
Hangboard #6 and Back Work
Yesterday went to the irongym for some back torture. Definitely making some headway on the Deads.
5/7/15 backwork
Deficit Deads:
Floor touches x 21
21 x the bar
12 x 145 SL
8 x 245 SL
5 or 6 x 345 (chalked for those)
2 x 395 (put the Inzer on for these)
2 x 445
1 x 465
Megahappy to lock that last one.
Good Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135
12 x 155
12 x 175
P'lups:
26 x BW
10 x +25
2 x 5ish x +45 (These felt hard. Not sure i made progress here, but not too bad.)
DB rows:
10 or so x 95
8 x 105
6 x 110 (was pretty much cashed here)
Good Un
Today was more hangboardin'. Also a good un,
5/8/15 Hangboard #6
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open Hand:
1: +15: 5# incr. Ok--hardish. No fail.
2: +25: Also 5 # incr. Failed at the end of last 2 reps. Definitely feeling yesterday's Deads.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Went ahead and untaped f4 for these. Slipped at the very end of last rep. Way better.
2: -5: Forgot to clip in on rep 1, so it was BW. Painful, but no fail, so this was a move upwards. Preemptively untaped f 3 and 4, and taped f5.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: 5# incr. Started at the outer edge o' the rail. No fail.
2: -20: 5# incr. Untaped f5 for this one. Failed at the last second of last rep.
[retaped f5]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: technically this wasn't an incr, except it felt way easy.
2: +10: this was a 5# incr. No fail! reasonably easy.
Wide Pinch:
1: -60: Ok...no fail.
2: -40: 5# incr. Rad. Failed in the last second of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed at the very very end.
2: +10: Failed in last second of last rep. 5# incr. BIG increase.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -77.5. Same. OK.
2; -65: 2.5# incr, but NO FAIL!!! >))
Saw some nice increases in spite of yesterday's teardown. Very encouraging. 3 mo' hangboardies to go.
5/7/15 backwork
Deficit Deads:
Floor touches x 21
21 x the bar
12 x 145 SL
8 x 245 SL
5 or 6 x 345 (chalked for those)
2 x 395 (put the Inzer on for these)
2 x 445
1 x 465
Megahappy to lock that last one.
Good Mornings:
2 x 12 x 135
12 x 155
12 x 175
P'lups:
26 x BW
10 x +25
2 x 5ish x +45 (These felt hard. Not sure i made progress here, but not too bad.)
DB rows:
10 or so x 95
8 x 105
6 x 110 (was pretty much cashed here)
Good Un
Today was more hangboardin'. Also a good un,
5/8/15 Hangboard #6
WUJ: -15. Just fine.
Large Open Hand:
1: +15: 5# incr. Ok--hardish. No fail.
2: +25: Also 5 # incr. Failed at the end of last 2 reps. Definitely feeling yesterday's Deads.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Went ahead and untaped f4 for these. Slipped at the very end of last rep. Way better.
2: -5: Forgot to clip in on rep 1, so it was BW. Painful, but no fail, so this was a move upwards. Preemptively untaped f 3 and 4, and taped f5.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: 5# incr. Started at the outer edge o' the rail. No fail.
2: -20: 5# incr. Untaped f5 for this one. Failed at the last second of last rep.
[retaped f5]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: technically this wasn't an incr, except it felt way easy.
2: +10: this was a 5# incr. No fail! reasonably easy.
Wide Pinch:
1: -60: Ok...no fail.
2: -40: 5# incr. Rad. Failed in the last second of the last rep. :)
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed at the very very end.
2: +10: Failed in last second of last rep. 5# incr. BIG increase.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -77.5. Same. OK.
2; -65: 2.5# incr, but NO FAIL!!! >))
Saw some nice increases in spite of yesterday's teardown. Very encouraging. 3 mo' hangboardies to go.
Tuesday, May 5, 2015
Hangboard #5
This was a pretty good one. Rained all day today, and it was much cooler than Saturday. Also i didn't do any misplaced climbing or otherwise-subversive workouts prior, so i felt pretty healed. Only thing is i didn't really warm up well enough. But it went off quite satisfactorily, notwithstanding.
Warmup Jug: -15: Real easy
Large Open:
1: +10: Hard at the end, but no fail.
2: +20: Hung for some extra time on the last rep. No fail. Increase :)
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Failed last 2 reps. Felt the tape was slipping off. Untaped f4 after this un.
2: -5: Big fails last 3 reps. Very painful on f5--> gotta tape this next time.
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -35: i kinda sandbagged 'cuz i was using a smaller part of the rail [rings at the outside dimple], but it was way too easy, so i moved my pinkies out as far as they'd go.
2: -25: Still too easy. Again, moved out to the edge of the rail and did two extra reps. :) Increase.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Hard at the end, no fail.
2: +5: Painful on f2. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -60: 2.5# incr. Hard on the last rep. No fail.
2: -45: 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. Excellent!
Sloper;
1: -5: 5# incr. Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: 5# incr. Failed end of last 2 reps. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -77.5: 5# incr. No fail--hard.
2: -67.5: 5# incr. Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Just not bad!
This was a shot in the arm. Especially the semi-crimp. I know the cool weather helped a lot, but i added a bit of weight today.
Warmup Jug: -15: Real easy
Large Open:
1: +10: Hard at the end, but no fail.
2: +20: Hung for some extra time on the last rep. No fail. Increase :)
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Failed last 2 reps. Felt the tape was slipping off. Untaped f4 after this un.
2: -5: Big fails last 3 reps. Very painful on f5--> gotta tape this next time.
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -35: i kinda sandbagged 'cuz i was using a smaller part of the rail [rings at the outside dimple], but it was way too easy, so i moved my pinkies out as far as they'd go.
2: -25: Still too easy. Again, moved out to the edge of the rail and did two extra reps. :) Increase.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Hard at the end, no fail.
2: +5: Painful on f2. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -60: 2.5# incr. Hard on the last rep. No fail.
2: -45: 5# incr. Failed on the last rep. Excellent!
Sloper;
1: -5: 5# incr. Failed end of last rep.
2: +5: 5# incr. Failed end of last 2 reps. Not bad.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -77.5: 5# incr. No fail--hard.
2: -67.5: 5# incr. Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Just not bad!
This was a shot in the arm. Especially the semi-crimp. I know the cool weather helped a lot, but i added a bit of weight today.
Saturday, May 2, 2015
Ketchup: Hangboard #3, 4, and Back Work
Haven't had the chance to write in a bit, but have been basically doing the workouts. Did hangboard #3 on 4/25 (on schedule), but went to Santa Fe on the 28th and was completely outta pocket for the remainder of the week. So i didn't work out that day, but climbed at StoneAge on the 29th in lieu of hangboarding. Actually bouldered 'til i was failing on jugs: maybe not the best alternative, 'cuz i felt it today, but a mighty mad workout notwithstanding. Next day (Thurs 4/30) did an iron workout in 'Querque. Planned on hangboarding again yesterday (5/1)--which woulda put me back on schedule-- but it also woulda put me 2 days out from the bouldering sesh, and by the time i got around to thinking about it seriously i was not feeling it. So i did hangboard #4 today, 3 days out from the boulder session. Did it mid-day, and it was hot. That was the theme for today. But not a bad workout after all.
4/25/15: Hangboard #3
Warmup Jug: -15: yup.
Large Open Hand:
1: +5: Not too bad.
2: +15: Hard, especially on f1. No fail.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -20: Hardhard. No fail.
2: -10: Ow. Much better. Failed end of last rep.
[untape f4]
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -15: OK, no fail.
2: -5: Urg! Failed end of last rep.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Hard, no fail.
2: +5 (5lb inc): Interesting. No fail >-))
[untape f5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Not too bad.
2: -52.5: NO FAIL!! That's a bump!
Sloper:
1: -10: Failed last 2 reps at the end. :b
2: BW: Weird really. Failed last millisecond of the last rep. Did blow on my hands between reps. Helped?
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: 5# increase. Hard. Hard. No fail.
2: -72.5: again, 5# increase. Massive fail on the last rep. No fail theretofore.
Really good sesh. I'm'a go ahead and post Hangboard #4, so's to juxtapose the two; even though it came after the iron session. This was an odd one, cuz again it was a hot day and i was not healed from bouldering. Still i posted up some improvements. :)
5/2/15: Hangboard #4
Warmup Jug: -15: OK. Bit acidic.
Large Open:
1: +10: 5# inc. Hard. No fail. Very hot.
2: +20: Also 5# inc. verrrrryvery hard. No fail.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -20: Hard. Failed last 3 reps. Tape was sweating off.
2: -10: Yeah! No fail. Nearly degloved f3, but no fail!
[untaped f4]
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -15: failed with tearing skin. --> go smaller.
2.0: Reset timer: -30 with rings to black mark: Failed last 3 (of 7).
2.1: -25: Very hard. Failed last 3 reps.
[taped f5 DIP]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Painful. Failed last 2 reps. Bleh!
2: +5: Failed last 2 reps. Very tired. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -62.5: 2.5# inc. Failed rep 6 and not rep 7. Misgrip there.
2: -50: another 2.5# inc. Rechalked at rep 3. Failed end of last rep. Not bad! Hot.
Sloper:
1: -10: Failed end of last rep. Hot.
2: BW: Weird. NO FAIL! Even did an extra rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Hard.
2: -72.5: No fail!! Even did an extra rep again.
So fairly good workout even though it was pretty hot. i think i need to procure some sort of easy-access chalk pot instead of the bag. Might help a bit.
4/29: Back Work:
Deads: Same workout, but i got a double with 445. Totally failed with 485.
G'mornings: 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175. last set was a 20# increase.
P'lups: 25 x bw, 2 x +25 x 10, 2 x +45 x about 5 or 6.
One-arm DB Rows: 12 x 90, 2 x 8 x 100. Very tired here.
Very happy with the double with 445 on deads. Pleasantsauce.
4/25/15: Hangboard #3
Warmup Jug: -15: yup.
Large Open Hand:
1: +5: Not too bad.
2: +15: Hard, especially on f1. No fail.
F 2,3 Pocket:
1: -20: Hardhard. No fail.
2: -10: Ow. Much better. Failed end of last rep.
[untape f4]
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -15: OK, no fail.
2: -5: Urg! Failed end of last rep.
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Hard, no fail.
2: +5 (5lb inc): Interesting. No fail >-))
[untape f5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Not too bad.
2: -52.5: NO FAIL!! That's a bump!
Sloper:
1: -10: Failed last 2 reps at the end. :b
2: BW: Weird really. Failed last millisecond of the last rep. Did blow on my hands between reps. Helped?
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: 5# increase. Hard. Hard. No fail.
2: -72.5: again, 5# increase. Massive fail on the last rep. No fail theretofore.
Really good sesh. I'm'a go ahead and post Hangboard #4, so's to juxtapose the two; even though it came after the iron session. This was an odd one, cuz again it was a hot day and i was not healed from bouldering. Still i posted up some improvements. :)
5/2/15: Hangboard #4
Warmup Jug: -15: OK. Bit acidic.
Large Open:
1: +10: 5# inc. Hard. No fail. Very hot.
2: +20: Also 5# inc. verrrrryvery hard. No fail.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -20: Hard. Failed last 3 reps. Tape was sweating off.
2: -10: Yeah! No fail. Nearly degloved f3, but no fail!
[untaped f4]
Semi-Closed Crimp:
1: -15: failed with tearing skin. --> go smaller.
2.0: Reset timer: -30 with rings to black mark: Failed last 3 (of 7).
2.1: -25: Very hard. Failed last 3 reps.
[taped f5 DIP]
F 2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -5: Painful. Failed last 2 reps. Bleh!
2: +5: Failed last 2 reps. Very tired. Ugh.
Wide Pinch:
1: -62.5: 2.5# inc. Failed rep 6 and not rep 7. Misgrip there.
2: -50: another 2.5# inc. Rechalked at rep 3. Failed end of last rep. Not bad! Hot.
Sloper:
1: -10: Failed end of last rep. Hot.
2: BW: Weird. NO FAIL! Even did an extra rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Hard.
2: -72.5: No fail!! Even did an extra rep again.
So fairly good workout even though it was pretty hot. i think i need to procure some sort of easy-access chalk pot instead of the bag. Might help a bit.
4/29: Back Work:
Deads: Same workout, but i got a double with 445. Totally failed with 485.
G'mornings: 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155, 12 x 175. last set was a 20# increase.
P'lups: 25 x bw, 2 x +25 x 10, 2 x +45 x about 5 or 6.
One-arm DB Rows: 12 x 90, 2 x 8 x 100. Very tired here.
Very happy with the double with 445 on deads. Pleasantsauce.
Friday, April 24, 2015
Back work
Weighed in at 194 and change this am. Did a second session of back work yesterday, with about 2 weeks between this time 'round. Went far better than i'd a right to expect.
Deficit Deads:
20 floor touches
20 x the bar
12 x 145 SL
8 x 245 SL
4 or 5 x 345 normal
2 x 395 (belt for these)
1 x 445 Locked this nicely
Good Mornings:
3 x 12 x 135 (accidentally started 40# heavier than usual. Worked out just fine.)
1 x 12 x 155 Peachy
Pullups:
25 x BW
2 x 10 x +25
2 x 6 x +45 (Got 7 on the last set.)
DB one-arm Rows:
10 x 90
2 x 5 x 110 (Got 6 both arms on the last set.)
Then i went and got a bow and shot that for several hours. :)
Deficit Deads:
20 floor touches
20 x the bar
12 x 145 SL
8 x 245 SL
4 or 5 x 345 normal
2 x 395 (belt for these)
1 x 445 Locked this nicely
Good Mornings:
3 x 12 x 135 (accidentally started 40# heavier than usual. Worked out just fine.)
1 x 12 x 155 Peachy
Pullups:
25 x BW
2 x 10 x +25
2 x 6 x +45 (Got 7 on the last set.)
DB one-arm Rows:
10 x 90
2 x 5 x 110 (Got 6 both arms on the last set.)
Then i went and got a bow and shot that for several hours. :)
Wednesday, April 22, 2015
Hangboard #2
Right. So i went to the gym yesterday for reasons that i couldn't explain, and climbed a route. Flashed the route, and it was the only thing i climbed, but i paid for it tonight. I was not as healed as i shoulda been for this. Can't do that again. That's the road to injury. I think it's either hangboarding or any other hand work. Weighed in at 199 fully clothed tonight, which'd be down about 4 lbs from Sunday, and i still saw some losses on a few grips. A good workout still, but minus some important muscle fibers.
Warmup Jug: -15: easy.
Large Open Hand:
1: +5: Painful. No fail.
2: +15: Very hard last rep. No fail. :)
F 2,3 pocket:
1: -20: Veryveryvery hard last rep. No fail.
2: -10: Failed last 3 reps. Bleh.
[untape f4]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: Hard. Failed last rep.
2: -5: Hard. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Really painful on f2. No fail.
2: BW: Total fail last 2 reps. Seriously feeling yesterday on this one.
[untape f5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Not bad--that's an uptick.
2: -55: Failed last rep! Another uptick.
Sloper:
1: -7.5: Ugh. Failed last 3. Same.
2: BW: Did this just to see what'd happen. Failed at the end of the last 2 reps. That's an uptick, and i'll take 'er. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -87.5: Hard, but no fail. That's a 5# improvement.
2: -77.5: No fail! Another 5# better. :))
So definitely not a terrible workout, Would'a liked to have seen me a li'l crisper and stronger on some of the grips, but no early losses there. No more hard climbing through hangboard season. i shall be encouraged.
Warmup Jug: -15: easy.
Large Open Hand:
1: +5: Painful. No fail.
2: +15: Very hard last rep. No fail. :)
F 2,3 pocket:
1: -20: Veryveryvery hard last rep. No fail.
2: -10: Failed last 3 reps. Bleh.
[untape f4]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: Hard. Failed last rep.
2: -5: Hard. Failed last 2 reps.
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Really painful on f2. No fail.
2: BW: Total fail last 2 reps. Seriously feeling yesterday on this one.
[untape f5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: No fail. Not bad--that's an uptick.
2: -55: Failed last rep! Another uptick.
Sloper:
1: -7.5: Ugh. Failed last 3. Same.
2: BW: Did this just to see what'd happen. Failed at the end of the last 2 reps. That's an uptick, and i'll take 'er. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -87.5: Hard, but no fail. That's a 5# improvement.
2: -77.5: No fail! Another 5# better. :))
So definitely not a terrible workout, Would'a liked to have seen me a li'l crisper and stronger on some of the grips, but no early losses there. No more hard climbing through hangboard season. i shall be encouraged.
Sunday, April 19, 2015
Neuromuscular Reeducation
Super amped to dig into Season 3 here. Did do a coupl'a weeks of ARCing on the "intermediate" program. Did miss the last 30min round of the last day cuz i got sucked into some add-on with the Anne and a friend. Good trade off.
Today was Hangboard #1. In spite of climbing--seemingly-- a lot for the last several weeks, i seem to have developed some baby-butt skin on my pingers which bedeviled me tonight. Notwithstanding, it was a really very fine session of it. Dropped most of my weights from where i left off, but not appreciably seeing as it's now exactly 3 months since last i hung from a hangboard.
Good grief: think i dragged this last "season" out a smidge long.
Weighed in fully dressed with harness at 204.6 tonight. That's slightly embarrassing, and gleichzeitig slightly encouraging, as i pulled off a reasonably sick workout without being significantly lighter than last time 'round, and having rather a lot of lard available for the dropping over the net few weeks.
Warmup Jug: -15: Easy. Not bad.
Large Open Hand:
1: BW: This is where i left off last time. Hard on the last rep. No fail. :))
2: +10: Same. Painful on the last rep, but no fail.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -25: 5# off of the last sesh. Very hard on the last 2 reps, but no fail.
2: -15: EEEeee. Hard. No fail.
[Untape F4]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: 10# off last sesh. Hard at last rep; no fail.
2: -5: This is where i started last sesh. Failed at the end of last 2 reps. Not bad!
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Went BW last time. Painful on f2, but no fail. :)
2: BW: Failed last second of the last rep. >:-> OkOk.
[Untape F5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: Off by 10#. Big ol' massive fail on the last rep.
2: -55: Where i left off last time. Failed on last 2-ish reps. Not too bad.
Sloper:
1: -7.5: 5# off last sesh. Really failed on the last 3 reps. Bleh.
2: -5: Failed on the last rep only. Weird. Totally mental.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -92.5: 10# off'n the last round. No fail. Way hard.
2: -82.5: This is where i started last sesh. No fail! Woot!
I really cannot whine about that one. I've lost a li'l bit o' strength, which i expected. But this is a very fine place to be starting off for the season. Very encouraging.
Today was Hangboard #1. In spite of climbing--seemingly-- a lot for the last several weeks, i seem to have developed some baby-butt skin on my pingers which bedeviled me tonight. Notwithstanding, it was a really very fine session of it. Dropped most of my weights from where i left off, but not appreciably seeing as it's now exactly 3 months since last i hung from a hangboard.
Good grief: think i dragged this last "season" out a smidge long.
Weighed in fully dressed with harness at 204.6 tonight. That's slightly embarrassing, and gleichzeitig slightly encouraging, as i pulled off a reasonably sick workout without being significantly lighter than last time 'round, and having rather a lot of lard available for the dropping over the net few weeks.
Warmup Jug: -15: Easy. Not bad.
Large Open Hand:
1: BW: This is where i left off last time. Hard on the last rep. No fail. :))
2: +10: Same. Painful on the last rep, but no fail.
F 3,4 Pocket:
1: -25: 5# off of the last sesh. Very hard on the last 2 reps, but no fail.
2: -15: EEEeee. Hard. No fail.
[Untape F4]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: 10# off last sesh. Hard at last rep; no fail.
2: -5: This is where i started last sesh. Failed at the end of last 2 reps. Not bad!
F 2,3,4:
1: -5: Went BW last time. Painful on f2, but no fail. :)
2: BW: Failed last second of the last rep. >:-> OkOk.
[Untape F5]
Wide Pinch:
1: -65: Off by 10#. Big ol' massive fail on the last rep.
2: -55: Where i left off last time. Failed on last 2-ish reps. Not too bad.
Sloper:
1: -7.5: 5# off last sesh. Really failed on the last 3 reps. Bleh.
2: -5: Failed on the last rep only. Weird. Totally mental.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -92.5: 10# off'n the last round. No fail. Way hard.
2: -82.5: This is where i started last sesh. No fail! Woot!
I really cannot whine about that one. I've lost a li'l bit o' strength, which i expected. But this is a very fine place to be starting off for the season. Very encouraging.
Friday, February 13, 2015
End of Power: Campus #5 and Limit Bouldering
On the 10th (3 days ago) i endeavored to campus for a last time this season. Went to the gym for a "warmup" that was just way too hard, and the campus session was so stale and ....just horrid, i didn't even bother recording any of it. Actually went backwards from the prior workout. So i did some campusing, and my fingers took something of a campusingesque pummeling, but it was no breed of morale booster.
Today CK came by for some limit bouldering, and it very much was a morale bump. Could definitely tell it's getting time to quit on the power work-- piggies are getting frayed and creaky and thin, like an ancient rope bridge o'er an impossible chasm. But we threw down some hard stuff. Very good to have a bro there to push me, and a very good workout to go out on.
Really looking forward to playing with that wall more.
Today CK came by for some limit bouldering, and it very much was a morale bump. Could definitely tell it's getting time to quit on the power work-- piggies are getting frayed and creaky and thin, like an ancient rope bridge o'er an impossible chasm. But we threw down some hard stuff. Very good to have a bro there to push me, and a very good workout to go out on.
Really looking forward to playing with that wall more.
Sunday, February 8, 2015
Limit Boulder #4ish
This was LB numma 3 or 4 depending on how i reckon things. But the Moon wall is looking pretty good, and i am finally getting the hang of how this is s'posed to work. Managed to get the large majority of the problems i set--still a few up in the air. No great way to quantify these problems yet; but they feel way hard. In fact, it seems tricky to make a problem that isn't way hard on a 40 degree overhang. But i can't say anything has been grade-changing for me. Very different, yes. The holds i bought tend to be a lot crimpier and smaller than most of the stuff at the gym. And i can't really imagine continuing on with the problems further. So i guess it feels like i'm climbing the beginning few moves of what would be a very hard problem.
Also i had a sort of epiphany whilst warming up for it today. I was playing on the hangboard, and ended up doing some hand-switching on some big slopers, and it occurred how similar the position was to the pumpy cruxes of Three Roofs. This could be the plan for Power Endurance. I could finish out strong as possible on Power, maybe even diet and shed a few lbs over the next coupla weeks, then spend every other day hanging from those slopers until i can take tea and crumpets while reperfusing the guns. That just might get it.
And i'm also considering a really contracted season to start over with strength and power training before i'm too far out from this bout. I feel like i could take my climbing-- especially the bouldering-- to the next level if i could just grab some really really tiny flecks of stone and move off of 'em.
Also i had a sort of epiphany whilst warming up for it today. I was playing on the hangboard, and ended up doing some hand-switching on some big slopers, and it occurred how similar the position was to the pumpy cruxes of Three Roofs. This could be the plan for Power Endurance. I could finish out strong as possible on Power, maybe even diet and shed a few lbs over the next coupla weeks, then spend every other day hanging from those slopers until i can take tea and crumpets while reperfusing the guns. That just might get it.
And i'm also considering a really contracted season to start over with strength and power training before i'm too far out from this bout. I feel like i could take my climbing-- especially the bouldering-- to the next level if i could just grab some really really tiny flecks of stone and move off of 'em.
Saturday, February 7, 2015
Campus #4
This really went well. Went to the gym and bouldered for a warmup--and honestly, that went pretty well too. But i'm digging this campusing deal, and it pains me that it's almost over with for the season. Only one more session to go for the season, so one more chance to bag 1-4-6.
Did this one yesterday (2/6/15), and weighed in at 200.6 fully clothed; so a pound lighter than 3 days prior.
As above, i bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Came home, ate dinner, then XXL for a coupla basic ladders.The usual pullups, rows and dips followed. (Interestingly, i'm kinda starting to like dips on the rings).
XL:
1) to L4-R5-Match
2) to R4-L5-match: Same as last time. But it looks like i tried a 1-4-6 on the XLs last time, and this time i decided to go straight to some smaller rungs.
L:
3) to L3-R5-match
4) to R3-L5-match
5) to L4-R5-match
6) to R4-L5-match Then to the b'i'ness
7) to L4-R6 Fail
8) to R4-L6- Touch fail >:) This gave me hope
9) to L4-R6- touch fail :/ Urgh
10) to R4-L6 touch fail
11) to L4-R6 ditto
12) to R4-L6 ditto.... Soooooo CLOSE! Annie and Aeon were out here for this bit. Good fun to have them playing too. I 'spect they'll be stronger than i soon. And that'll be mighty cool.
M: (untaped F4 here)
13) L3-R4-fail
14) R3-L4 match
15) L3-R4 match!
16) R3-L4-match
17) L3-R4-match
18) R3-L4-match. :>
Excellent go of it. I really think 1-4-6 will go next time. And that'll be swell. Excepting i've got a 7th rung up on the board.....
Did this one yesterday (2/6/15), and weighed in at 200.6 fully clothed; so a pound lighter than 3 days prior.
As above, i bouldered for an hour and a half or so. Came home, ate dinner, then XXL for a coupla basic ladders.The usual pullups, rows and dips followed. (Interestingly, i'm kinda starting to like dips on the rings).
XL:
1) to L4-R5-Match
2) to R4-L5-match: Same as last time. But it looks like i tried a 1-4-6 on the XLs last time, and this time i decided to go straight to some smaller rungs.
L:
3) to L3-R5-match
4) to R3-L5-match
5) to L4-R5-match
6) to R4-L5-match Then to the b'i'ness
7) to L4-R6 Fail
8) to R4-L6- Touch fail >:) This gave me hope
9) to L4-R6- touch fail :/ Urgh
10) to R4-L6 touch fail
11) to L4-R6 ditto
12) to R4-L6 ditto.... Soooooo CLOSE! Annie and Aeon were out here for this bit. Good fun to have them playing too. I 'spect they'll be stronger than i soon. And that'll be mighty cool.
M: (untaped F4 here)
13) L3-R4-fail
14) R3-L4 match
15) L3-R4 match!
16) R3-L4-match
17) L3-R4-match
18) R3-L4-match. :>
Excellent go of it. I really think 1-4-6 will go next time. And that'll be swell. Excepting i've got a 7th rung up on the board.....
Thursday, February 5, 2015
Campus #3
This woulda been Tues, 2 days ago on 2/3/15. Interesting session, cuz for the days prior, and including the "warmup" i basically climbed my booty off. So while i didn't exactly feel as springy as i'd have liked for this un, it was a pretty decent upstep notwithstanding. Weighed in at 201.6 just before.
XXL basic ladder for a warmup (after a pretty hard session at the gym).
Then to max ladders:
XL:
1) to R4-L5-match
2) to L4-R5-match : I might have recorded this wrong, but at any rate it went better than the previous session. Good first set.
3) to R4-L6-fail
4) to L4-R6-fail : The long reaches is where the "warmup" ended up killing me.
L:
5) to R3-L5-match :)
6) to L3-R5-match :))
7) to R4-L5-match :)))
8) to L4-R5-match :)))) Didn't even try that last session. Hard.
M:
9) to R3-L4- fail
10) to L3-R4- fail : Untaped F4s after this.
11) to R3-L4-match
12) to L3-R4-match :)
13) to R3-tried to go to L5, but massive fail
14) to L3- same... massive fail.
Then i hung from the Smalls for a while. Too cooked to move off of 'em, but it was nice to be able to hang.
No huge gains here, but it felt big after the bouldering sessions at the gym prior. Have taken yesterday and today off completely so's to be hopefully a bit fresher for tomorrow's campus sesh #4. Vamos a ver.
XXL basic ladder for a warmup (after a pretty hard session at the gym).
Then to max ladders:
XL:
1) to R4-L5-match
2) to L4-R5-match : I might have recorded this wrong, but at any rate it went better than the previous session. Good first set.
3) to R4-L6-fail
4) to L4-R6-fail : The long reaches is where the "warmup" ended up killing me.
L:
5) to R3-L5-match :)
6) to L3-R5-match :))
7) to R4-L5-match :)))
8) to L4-R5-match :)))) Didn't even try that last session. Hard.
M:
9) to R3-L4- fail
10) to L3-R4- fail : Untaped F4s after this.
11) to R3-L4-match
12) to L3-R4-match :)
13) to R3-tried to go to L5, but massive fail
14) to L3- same... massive fail.
Then i hung from the Smalls for a while. Too cooked to move off of 'em, but it was nice to be able to hang.
No huge gains here, but it felt big after the bouldering sessions at the gym prior. Have taken yesterday and today off completely so's to be hopefully a bit fresher for tomorrow's campus sesh #4. Vamos a ver.
Sunday, February 1, 2015
Limit Boulder number threeish
First session on the Moon Wall with the new holds. Really went mighty fine. I've ended up basically putting up a semi-symmetrical system wall. Not entirely sure how "limit bouldering" is supposed to go, but it makes sense to me to fairly closely train with one hand what i'm training with the other.
I definitely need a bigger LZ. Not really using the top o' the wall, cuz i really don't wanna crash from there. But this was pretty cool: it's shown me that i need a lot of work on hard crimps (as though i didn't already know that), but it didn't go nearly as badly as i'd expected.
Need more bolts--really wish i'd have ordered more. And i need more campus rungs, which is a terribly, awfully cool thing to be able to say.
I definitely need a bigger LZ. Not really using the top o' the wall, cuz i really don't wanna crash from there. But this was pretty cool: it's shown me that i need a lot of work on hard crimps (as though i didn't already know that), but it didn't go nearly as badly as i'd expected.
Need more bolts--really wish i'd have ordered more. And i need more campus rungs, which is a terribly, awfully cool thing to be able to say.
Saturday, January 31, 2015
Campus #2
Gotta catch up again. Tues--would'a' been 1/27-- did a really nice limit boulder sesh. Don't remember exactly what i did, but i'm certain it was limit-y. Took Wed off, then campused after, really, too hard a warmup. Rather, as it turned out, it was not too hard a warmup. Worked out to be a pretty fantastic session of campusing after some pretty hard bouldering.
Weighed in at 198.8 fully clothed. Basic ladder on the XXLs each hand for a warmup. Then to max ladders.
1) XL to L3-R4-match
2) XL to R3-L4-match
3) XL to L3-R5-match :)
4) XL to R3-L5-fail
5) XL to R3-L5-match :)
6) L to L3-R4 match
7) L to R3-L4 match: easy
8) L to L3-R5 match :)
9) L to R3-L5 match: Not bad!
10) M to L3-R4-touch fail
11) M to R3-L4- fail
12) M to L3-R4-match :)
13) M to R3-L4- snag fail
14) M to R3-L4- Match! Woot!
So this was a definite step forward. Just last session i really couldn't hang from the medium rungs. This time i got a max ladder on 'em (albeit a little ladder). This gives me hope.
Also got in the shiny, new egrips holds for some limit bouldering. Looking mighty forward to stressing those tomorrow.
Weighed in at 198.8 fully clothed. Basic ladder on the XXLs each hand for a warmup. Then to max ladders.
1) XL to L3-R4-match
2) XL to R3-L4-match
3) XL to L3-R5-match :)
4) XL to R3-L5-fail
5) XL to R3-L5-match :)
6) L to L3-R4 match
7) L to R3-L4 match: easy
8) L to L3-R5 match :)
9) L to R3-L5 match: Not bad!
10) M to L3-R4-touch fail
11) M to R3-L4- fail
12) M to L3-R4-match :)
13) M to R3-L4- snag fail
14) M to R3-L4- Match! Woot!
So this was a definite step forward. Just last session i really couldn't hang from the medium rungs. This time i got a max ladder on 'em (albeit a little ladder). This gives me hope.
Also got in the shiny, new egrips holds for some limit bouldering. Looking mighty forward to stressing those tomorrow.
Saturday, January 24, 2015
Stutter start on Campus #1
So today's was actually a pretty good workout, but a little outta sync with the plan. Went to the gym for a warmup for campusing on Thursday, and got roped into projecting some hardness. Was a good workout, and i'm a call it a limit boulder session--cuz it was-- but there was no campusing afterwards. So today, 3 days later, i campused. And it went much better than i anticipated.
I put up the Metolius rungs which are large, medium, and small. So i'll rename the stuff i already had up XL and XXL respectively. The large Metolius is 1 1/4" deep. My XL is a routed down 2x4, so it's 1 1/2" deep. The XXL is 3" deep.
Warmed up with basic ladders on the XXL, leading with each hand. Easy.
Did a basic ladder on the XL. Definitely having to get back into this.
Then to max ladders:
1: XL: to R3-L4-match
2: XL: to L3-R4-match
3: L: to R3-L4 fail
4: L: to L3-R4 fail :-/
5: L: to R3-L4 match :)
6: L: to L3-R4 match :)
7: L: to R3-L5 touch fail
8: L: to L3-R5 snag fail
9: L: to R3-L5 match!
10: L: to L3-R5 match! :)
11: M: to R3-L? total fail
12: M: to L3-R4 touch fail
13: M: to R3-L4 snag fail
14: M: to L3-R4 snag fail
15: L: to R3-L4 match
16: L: to L3-R4 match
Lesson (re)learned: campusing is a head trip. But this was a good start. Definitely a leap and a bound up from where i started last season. It's funny, 'cuz at the beginning today i really wasn't sure i could move on the large holds; after a single fail on each hand leading, i maxed my rungs out. (Gunna need more rungs in the near future, btw.) Similar on the medium rungs. Really never matched on a max ladder on the mediums, but i expect they'll feel fairly doable next session. We'll see.
But this was a shot in the arm. I tried to campus after Thursday's workout, and it was a complete waste of time, so i really didn't know what to expect today. I was very pleasantly surprised.
I put up the Metolius rungs which are large, medium, and small. So i'll rename the stuff i already had up XL and XXL respectively. The large Metolius is 1 1/4" deep. My XL is a routed down 2x4, so it's 1 1/2" deep. The XXL is 3" deep.
Warmed up with basic ladders on the XXL, leading with each hand. Easy.
Did a basic ladder on the XL. Definitely having to get back into this.
Then to max ladders:
1: XL: to R3-L4-match
2: XL: to L3-R4-match
3: L: to R3-L4 fail
4: L: to L3-R4 fail :-/
5: L: to R3-L4 match :)
6: L: to L3-R4 match :)
7: L: to R3-L5 touch fail
8: L: to L3-R5 snag fail
9: L: to R3-L5 match!
10: L: to L3-R5 match! :)
11: M: to R3-L? total fail
12: M: to L3-R4 touch fail
13: M: to R3-L4 snag fail
14: M: to L3-R4 snag fail
15: L: to R3-L4 match
16: L: to L3-R4 match
Lesson (re)learned: campusing is a head trip. But this was a good start. Definitely a leap and a bound up from where i started last season. It's funny, 'cuz at the beginning today i really wasn't sure i could move on the large holds; after a single fail on each hand leading, i maxed my rungs out. (Gunna need more rungs in the near future, btw.) Similar on the medium rungs. Really never matched on a max ladder on the mediums, but i expect they'll feel fairly doable next session. We'll see.
But this was a shot in the arm. I tried to campus after Thursday's workout, and it was a complete waste of time, so i really didn't know what to expect today. I was very pleasantly surprised.
Monday, January 19, 2015
Hangboard #9
Last hangboard workout for this season. Kind of a wistful, poignant feeling it evokes here: i've really come to dig-- yea, even look forward to these workouts. They work like crazy!
But if it's time to move on, this was a flippin' awesome workout to end on. Weighed in fully dressed at 200.0 tonight.
Warmup Jug: -15. Same.
Large Open Hand:
1: BW: This was a >5# increase. Hard at the end.
2: +10: Five lbs up again. No fail. Not bad.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -20: Another 5# increase. Bit hard. No fail.
2: -10: Five lbs up. No fail! Hard. :)
[Untaped F4 here]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -5: Better. Failed in the last 2 secs of the last rep.
2: +5: Better again. Made it through rep 4. Progressive failure last 2 reps.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: Hard, but no fail. :)
2: +10: Failed at the final beep. Way better!
[Untaped F5 here]
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: No fail! :))
2: -45: Made it through rep 4. Failed on reps 5 & 6. Mo' betta!
Sloper:
1: -2.5: Failed on the last rep. Better.
2: +10: Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Much better. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: No fail! Woot!
2: -72.5: Hardhardhard; but no fail, sucka! :))
So i didn't increase weights really on the last 6 grips. But i definitely improved on pretty much everything. That's way encouraging. I do think the cold night helped a bit, but i also just felt more motivated and better than last time.
So far a good season. The campus rungs're installed and ready to go, and a happy package from E-Grips should be en route soon for Power Time. Reeeeealy psyched about this next bit.
But if it's time to move on, this was a flippin' awesome workout to end on. Weighed in fully dressed at 200.0 tonight.
Warmup Jug: -15. Same.
Large Open Hand:
1: BW: This was a >5# increase. Hard at the end.
2: +10: Five lbs up again. No fail. Not bad.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -20: Another 5# increase. Bit hard. No fail.
2: -10: Five lbs up. No fail! Hard. :)
[Untaped F4 here]
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -5: Better. Failed in the last 2 secs of the last rep.
2: +5: Better again. Made it through rep 4. Progressive failure last 2 reps.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: Hard, but no fail. :)
2: +10: Failed at the final beep. Way better!
[Untaped F5 here]
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: No fail! :))
2: -45: Made it through rep 4. Failed on reps 5 & 6. Mo' betta!
Sloper:
1: -2.5: Failed on the last rep. Better.
2: +10: Failed last 2 seconds of last rep. Much better. :)
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: No fail! Woot!
2: -72.5: Hardhardhard; but no fail, sucka! :))
So i didn't increase weights really on the last 6 grips. But i definitely improved on pretty much everything. That's way encouraging. I do think the cold night helped a bit, but i also just felt more motivated and better than last time.
So far a good season. The campus rungs're installed and ready to go, and a happy package from E-Grips should be en route soon for Power Time. Reeeeealy psyched about this next bit.
Friday, January 16, 2015
Hangboard #8
Somehow i miscalculated here, and i ended up putting this at the 4 day mark, 'stead o' the 3. I guess that's fine, 'cuz i really couldn't have done it last night anyhow. Thought i was gunna snowboard today, but that fell through; so i got in a fairly decent workout of it. And to be fair, i did climb reasonably hard on Tuesday, so it really didn't amount to three off days. Today's was a weird one.
Warmup Jug: -15. Warmed.
Large Open Hand:
1: -5: 5# increase here. Still easy.
2: +5: Took the pin off last time, so this was more than a 5# increase. Hard at the end, but no fail.
F3,4:
1: -25: 5# increase here. Not bad.
2: -15: 5# increase. Hard. No fail. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -5: Hard. Failed the last half of the last rep.
2: +5: Progressive fails on last 3 reps. But good times up 'til then.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: Huh. So this was a more than 5# increase. Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2: +10: Again, 5# increase. Dura dura. Failed last 2 reps (which ain't bad). :))
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2: -45: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
Sloper:
1: -2.5: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2: +7.5 with PIN: Progressive fail last 3 reps. :-/
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: No fail! I'll take that as an increase. :)
2: -72.5: Failed end of last 2 reps. Sounds the same as last workout. I'll take it.
Overall an excellent workout. Added resistance to 4 of 8 grips and actually finished stronger on the Narrow Pinch. It kinda got messy toward the end, but i really think that's cuz i didn't sandbag at the beginning. Forearms are torched. And i see it translating to my climbing is the cool bit. I'm starting to see the shining path to the bigger numbers. There're still holds i can't fully pull on, but they're getting absurdly small; and i can pull on stuff i couldn't think of seriously before. That's encouraging. My endurance is grey, and my weight is ... ridiculous; but the strength gains are very encouraging.
One more session to go, then power.
Warmup Jug: -15. Warmed.
Large Open Hand:
1: -5: 5# increase here. Still easy.
2: +5: Took the pin off last time, so this was more than a 5# increase. Hard at the end, but no fail.
F3,4:
1: -25: 5# increase here. Not bad.
2: -15: 5# increase. Hard. No fail. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -5: Hard. Failed the last half of the last rep.
2: +5: Progressive fails on last 3 reps. But good times up 'til then.
F2,3,4:
1: BW: Huh. So this was a more than 5# increase. Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2: +10: Again, 5# increase. Dura dura. Failed last 2 reps (which ain't bad). :))
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2: -45: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
Sloper:
1: -2.5: Progressive fail last 3 reps.
2: +7.5 with PIN: Progressive fail last 3 reps. :-/
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: No fail! I'll take that as an increase. :)
2: -72.5: Failed end of last 2 reps. Sounds the same as last workout. I'll take it.
Overall an excellent workout. Added resistance to 4 of 8 grips and actually finished stronger on the Narrow Pinch. It kinda got messy toward the end, but i really think that's cuz i didn't sandbag at the beginning. Forearms are torched. And i see it translating to my climbing is the cool bit. I'm starting to see the shining path to the bigger numbers. There're still holds i can't fully pull on, but they're getting absurdly small; and i can pull on stuff i couldn't think of seriously before. That's encouraging. My endurance is grey, and my weight is ... ridiculous; but the strength gains are very encouraging.
One more session to go, then power.
Tuesday, January 13, 2015
Hangboard #7:
Got in Numma 7 last night (1/12/15) and it went much better. Weighed in at 201.8 fully clothed, and that certainly gave me an edge over the prior sesh, but it was also a bit cooler (although i still ended up taking off the beanie and vest). But most of all i think i was gifted with a bit more focus and pain tolerance.
Warmup Jug: -15: Actually managed to use the Jug this time.
Large Open:
1: -10: Just fine.
2: -Pin: Fairly easy, so an improvement if not an increase. Go up next time.
F3,4;
1: -30: Five lb increase here. Not bad.
2: -20: Still 5# up, and not bad. Increase. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -10: Hard, but no fail. Untaping helped.
2: -Pin: 2.5# increase from last time. Failed at the last beep. Way betta!
F2,3,4:
1: -5: Another 5# increase. No fail.
2: +5: Didn't use the pin here, but still a 5# increase. Not bad--could increase again.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last rep. Better.
2: -45: Failed progressively earlier in last 3 reps, with the last rep pretty much a flailing wash. Still a betterment from last go.
Sloper:
1: -2.5: A 2.5# increase. Failed somewhere in the last 3 secs.
2: +7.5 and Pin: Still 2.5# up from last round. Failed at the very end of last two reps. Better.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Failed at the beep.
2: -72.5: Greased off the last sec of last two reps. That was a pleasant improvement over last time.
Kept several resistances the same yesterday, but overall really felt better and worked harder. Laid down a pretty acceptable round there.
Today i climbed a bit. Mostly bouldered. Really turned out well for having a hangboard sesh the day before. No complaints all around.
Warmup Jug: -15: Actually managed to use the Jug this time.
Large Open:
1: -10: Just fine.
2: -Pin: Fairly easy, so an improvement if not an increase. Go up next time.
F3,4;
1: -30: Five lb increase here. Not bad.
2: -20: Still 5# up, and not bad. Increase. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -10: Hard, but no fail. Untaping helped.
2: -Pin: 2.5# increase from last time. Failed at the last beep. Way betta!
F2,3,4:
1: -5: Another 5# increase. No fail.
2: +5: Didn't use the pin here, but still a 5# increase. Not bad--could increase again.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last rep. Better.
2: -45: Failed progressively earlier in last 3 reps, with the last rep pretty much a flailing wash. Still a betterment from last go.
Sloper:
1: -2.5: A 2.5# increase. Failed somewhere in the last 3 secs.
2: +7.5 and Pin: Still 2.5# up from last round. Failed at the very end of last two reps. Better.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Failed at the beep.
2: -72.5: Greased off the last sec of last two reps. That was a pleasant improvement over last time.
Kept several resistances the same yesterday, but overall really felt better and worked harder. Laid down a pretty acceptable round there.
Today i climbed a bit. Mostly bouldered. Really turned out well for having a hangboard sesh the day before. No complaints all around.
Thursday, January 8, 2015
Struckout looking: Hangboard #6
Didn't show up for the fight today. Weighed in at a bit over 204# today, so up a pretty solid 5# from last session (4 days ago), and well into Clydesdale status. Had a late and large breakfast and really felt like an enormous slug. Basically didn't make any meaningful improvements today, iron-wise; but i'm gunna take the silver lining: i'm up five lbs-- depressing by itself, but a pretty nice bump in weight resistance-wise.
Warmup Jug: -15: This kinda shewed where my brain wasn't-- i accidentally did this on the Large Open Hand ledge. Oops. Finished it at any rate, but a poor way to start things off.
Large Open Hand:
1: -10: Harder than last time
2: -Pin: Way harder, but no fail.
F3,4:
1: -35: Hard. Feelin' pretty portly today.
2: -25: Hardish. Could go up here. Ok...
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -10: Very hard. Failed last second of last rep. Right 2nd finger skin was failing. Afraid i was gunna peel a giant flapper here. Need tape. And this was still a 5# increase from last time.
2: -2.5: Taped R 2nd DIP for this and it helped a bit, pain-wise; but not with friction. Massive fail after rep 3.
F2,3,4:
1: -10: Hard but no fail.
2: BW: Failed in the last second last rep. Better! :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2: -45: Better without the F2 taping. Failed on the last 3 reps.
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed on the last rep.
2: +5 with pin: Hard, but failed last sec of last rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Failed last 2 reps.
2: -72.5: Failed last 2 reps-- total fail on the last rep.
Several pearls to be gleaned from this workout. Several mistakes. One, just came to it without focus. No pain tolerance and no fight. I think this was partly from being a li'l sleep deprived and partly from going in full and fat.
Two, i should definitely have not climbed on Mon and Tues. For some reason i thought i could get by with some "light" projecting at the gym, and that was a sad (and exhausting) mistake. Didn't stick to the plan.
Three (and this hails back to the last item) my skin was mulched, and when it comes down to taping and wrecking my friction and possibly opening a flapper and screwing up the rest of my workouts, i'll take a bad workout. But i don't think that'd have been necessary if i hadn't snuck some climbing seshes in there.
Four, interestingly it didn't take much of a rise in temps to really affect my sticking power. The temp rose noticeably during the workout, and it showed.
Lastly (and firstly, really), i'm fat. A fiveish pound gain in lard made a very large difference. This reiterates for me what i might be able to hang from if i could shed 20 or so lbs. Gunna hafta dig for some consistent discipline. And i may hafta start running again.
Warmup Jug: -15: This kinda shewed where my brain wasn't-- i accidentally did this on the Large Open Hand ledge. Oops. Finished it at any rate, but a poor way to start things off.
Large Open Hand:
1: -10: Harder than last time
2: -Pin: Way harder, but no fail.
F3,4:
1: -35: Hard. Feelin' pretty portly today.
2: -25: Hardish. Could go up here. Ok...
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -10: Very hard. Failed last second of last rep. Right 2nd finger skin was failing. Afraid i was gunna peel a giant flapper here. Need tape. And this was still a 5# increase from last time.
2: -2.5: Taped R 2nd DIP for this and it helped a bit, pain-wise; but not with friction. Massive fail after rep 3.
F2,3,4:
1: -10: Hard but no fail.
2: BW: Failed in the last second last rep. Better! :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2: -45: Better without the F2 taping. Failed on the last 3 reps.
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed on the last rep.
2: +5 with pin: Hard, but failed last sec of last rep.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Failed last 2 reps.
2: -72.5: Failed last 2 reps-- total fail on the last rep.
Several pearls to be gleaned from this workout. Several mistakes. One, just came to it without focus. No pain tolerance and no fight. I think this was partly from being a li'l sleep deprived and partly from going in full and fat.
Two, i should definitely have not climbed on Mon and Tues. For some reason i thought i could get by with some "light" projecting at the gym, and that was a sad (and exhausting) mistake. Didn't stick to the plan.
Three (and this hails back to the last item) my skin was mulched, and when it comes down to taping and wrecking my friction and possibly opening a flapper and screwing up the rest of my workouts, i'll take a bad workout. But i don't think that'd have been necessary if i hadn't snuck some climbing seshes in there.
Four, interestingly it didn't take much of a rise in temps to really affect my sticking power. The temp rose noticeably during the workout, and it showed.
Lastly (and firstly, really), i'm fat. A fiveish pound gain in lard made a very large difference. This reiterates for me what i might be able to hang from if i could shed 20 or so lbs. Gunna hafta dig for some consistent discipline. And i may hafta start running again.
Sunday, January 4, 2015
Hangboard #5
Another hangboardy day. Nuthin' but a pretty nice paycheck in the meantime. But this hangboarding thing is working. Do wish i could get more other-muscle workouts in, but there hain't been time. At any rate, the hangboarding's been good so far, and today's workout was another resounding uptick. Of note, it was quite a bit warmer today than last time, and that helped. Colder might be better for sticking holds than warmer, but not so much when you can't feel the holds.
Warmup Jug: -15: Actually shifted grips through this, cuz i didn't really do much of a warmup prior. Worked out just fine.
Large Open Hand:
1: -10: This was a 2.5# bump. Li'l hard.
2: -pin: Hmm. Again, li'l hard, but not too. Increase. :)
F3,4:
1: -35: 5# increase. Hard at the end. No fail.
2: -25: 5# up here too. No fail. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: 2.5# up here. No fail.
2: -5: Again, up 2.5#. Hard on the last rep, but no fail. :)
F2,3,4:
1: -10: 2.5# increase. OK.
2: -pin: Really not bad. Could increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Ok...No fail.
2: -45: Better--much better-- than last time. Failed in the last second of the last 2 reps.
Sloper:
1: -5: No fail, but fairly hard.
2: +5: This was adding the pin with 5# to my harness, so it was more than a 10# jump. Gotta weigh that pin one o' these times. Anyhow: Very hard, and failed at the end of the last two reps. Good stuff.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Didn't fail, but barely. Burn.
2: -72.5: Way better! Failed in the last 3 secs of last rep, but not before. Might increase this one.
So once again, great workout. Increased weight on 5 grips, and increased performance on 6 of 8. Not too bad. Over halfway through this piece of the season now. Looking forward to take this to the rocks. :)
Warmup Jug: -15: Actually shifted grips through this, cuz i didn't really do much of a warmup prior. Worked out just fine.
Large Open Hand:
1: -10: This was a 2.5# bump. Li'l hard.
2: -pin: Hmm. Again, li'l hard, but not too. Increase. :)
F3,4:
1: -35: 5# increase. Hard at the end. No fail.
2: -25: 5# up here too. No fail. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -15: 2.5# up here. No fail.
2: -5: Again, up 2.5#. Hard on the last rep, but no fail. :)
F2,3,4:
1: -10: 2.5# increase. OK.
2: -pin: Really not bad. Could increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Ok...No fail.
2: -45: Better--much better-- than last time. Failed in the last second of the last 2 reps.
Sloper:
1: -5: No fail, but fairly hard.
2: +5: This was adding the pin with 5# to my harness, so it was more than a 10# jump. Gotta weigh that pin one o' these times. Anyhow: Very hard, and failed at the end of the last two reps. Good stuff.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: Didn't fail, but barely. Burn.
2: -72.5: Way better! Failed in the last 3 secs of last rep, but not before. Might increase this one.
So once again, great workout. Increased weight on 5 grips, and increased performance on 6 of 8. Not too bad. Over halfway through this piece of the season now. Looking forward to take this to the rocks. :)
Thursday, January 1, 2015
Hangboard #4
Once again i'm a day late; only this time i had a better excuse. I got the matriarchal blessing to climb at the gym on Tues (2 days ago), and i took it. So last night i was a little baked--and i got off work 3.5 hours after i was scheduled to get off, and just honestly didn't feel like hangboarding in the dark in 6 degrees. But really very good, and very encouraging sessions both climbing and hangboarding today; so i feel ok about bumping it back yet another day.
Warmup Jug: -15: Same same.
Large Open Hand:
1: -12.5: This was a 2.5# increase. Burned at the end.
2: -2.5: Again, up 2.5#. Hard, but no fail.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -40: This was a 5# bump. Very hard at the end. no fail.
2: -30: Again, 5# bump. Very hard, but dug deep and no fail.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -17.5: This was a 2.5# increase. Very hard. No fail.
2: -7.5: Pretty hard, but no fail. Up 2.5#. :)
F2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -12.5: Hard at the end. Kept these the same.
2: -2.5: Incredibly, no fail. Very mental. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: No fail(ish), which is an improvement. I mighta been dripping off the hold as my timer chimed on the last rep.
2: -45: Bleh! Failed really on the last 4 reps at least partially. Felt like i couldn't get set properly on the holds. Really didn't feel weak; just felt so cold my fingertips were glassy and i couldn't feel.
Sloper:
1: -5: Very hard. Failed last second of last rep.
2: BW: :) Not quite sure what made me think i could do this after the set before, but i didn't fail. Guess i should find out what my pin weighs, cuz that's the increase. Hard. Heh heh!
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: 2.5# up! Whew! No fail :)
2: -72.5: Ha!! Massive fail, but last rep only. That's an increase. :))
That's an improvement, or frank weight increase on 6 of 8 grips. That's very satisfying. Very good workout. I'm getting a li'l amped to see if i can make some real climbing gains this season. Was 200.0 lbs fully clothed this morning (without a harness)-- so up a pound from last sesh, and still got some gains. That's real nice.
Warmup Jug: -15: Same same.
Large Open Hand:
1: -12.5: This was a 2.5# increase. Burned at the end.
2: -2.5: Again, up 2.5#. Hard, but no fail.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -40: This was a 5# bump. Very hard at the end. no fail.
2: -30: Again, 5# bump. Very hard, but dug deep and no fail.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -17.5: This was a 2.5# increase. Very hard. No fail.
2: -7.5: Pretty hard, but no fail. Up 2.5#. :)
F2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -12.5: Hard at the end. Kept these the same.
2: -2.5: Incredibly, no fail. Very mental. :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: No fail(ish), which is an improvement. I mighta been dripping off the hold as my timer chimed on the last rep.
2: -45: Bleh! Failed really on the last 4 reps at least partially. Felt like i couldn't get set properly on the holds. Really didn't feel weak; just felt so cold my fingertips were glassy and i couldn't feel.
Sloper:
1: -5: Very hard. Failed last second of last rep.
2: BW: :) Not quite sure what made me think i could do this after the set before, but i didn't fail. Guess i should find out what my pin weighs, cuz that's the increase. Hard. Heh heh!
Narrow Pinch:
1: -82.5: 2.5# up! Whew! No fail :)
2: -72.5: Ha!! Massive fail, but last rep only. That's an increase. :))
That's an improvement, or frank weight increase on 6 of 8 grips. That's very satisfying. Very good workout. I'm getting a li'l amped to see if i can make some real climbing gains this season. Was 200.0 lbs fully clothed this morning (without a harness)-- so up a pound from last sesh, and still got some gains. That's real nice.
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