Nothing in between workouts. Job's blossoming its true black-hole-colored, soul-vacuuming nature, and there hasn't been a minute to squeeze in any extra workouts. But by the mercy of the Lord, i have gotten the hangborading in. And it's again pretty encouraging. Weighed in fully clothed at 199.0 (a lb down from Thurs).
Warmup Jug: -15: Peachy. Could go up here, but i had several increases this time round, and i figured i'd be feeling it by the end.
Large Open Hand:
1: -15: Little burn, but not bad. (This was a 5# bump).
2: -5: Still not hard. Could increase again. :)
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -45: Very solid, no fail. (Another 5# increase).
2: -35: Not hard. Increase again. :)
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -20: This was a 7.5# bump from last time, and was harder. No fail.
2: -10: 5# bump from last time. Hard here, but no fail. Could increase a skosh here, but it'll feel way harder if i bump the grips before it.
F2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -12.5: 2.5# increase here, and definitely harder. Better untaped.
2: -2.5: Very hard. Failed last two reps.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Untaped. Very hard. Failed last two reps.
2: -45: Hardhard. Failed at the end of last 3 reps. I like these.
Sloper:
1: -5: Failed at the end of the last 2 reps.
2: -pin: Ver hard, but no fail. Can't explain that. But that's a victory after bumping the amperage on four grips before it.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Very hard, but no fail.
2: -75: Failed at the end of the last rep. These felt harder than the last workout. Think it was colder today.
Overall a very pleasing workout. Still making fairly big gains. That's week 1 of a four week period, so i'm looking at cementing some pretty nice gains. And i've gotta find time to run. Striking how much difference 2.5# can make on a hold, and i could drop several of those.
Sunday, December 28, 2014
Thursday, December 25, 2014
Hangboard #2 (...a smidge late)
On Monday i did some deadlifting. Miserable workout. Got in at prime time, and every highschool in the area was working out on every conceivable piece of equipment. Ended up dragging a bar into an aisle to lift. And i forgot my belt. Same basic workout from a deficit, but i missed with 445. Also did a set of 25 pullups, but somebody had the chain belt so i couldn't add weight. Then i left, cuz i was beyond irritated. Eh well-- it was a workout, and my back was sore.
Got off target on hangboarding by a couple o' days 'cuz of work; but i did get 'er in today. Weighed in at 200.0lbs today fully clothed, but without a harness. One thing to say for taking 5 days 'twixt workouts instead of 3 is i was fully healed. Went up on several grips today from last time. That's a shot in the arm.
Warmup Jug: -15: Heavy breakfast and a 15 second warmup weighing in.
Large Open Hand:
1: -20: Burned, but not hard.
2: -10: Not too hard. Didn't shake out here, and that helped. Could go up next time.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -50: Hard at the end, but no fail. This was a 5# increase. Taped F4 up front and it helped.
2: -40: Again, a 5# increase. No fail. Could bump it up again.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -27.5: Ok. Found some 2.5# plates, and thought i'd creep up, but coulda gone bigger.
2: -15: Really not bad still. Could increase again next time.
F2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Hard. Take off the F4 tape next time. This was a 5# increase.
2: -5: Harder, but no fail. Taking the tape off helped. Again a 5# bump :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed last second of last rep. Taking the tape off helped. Definitely stronger on these.
2: -45: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps. Much better. Of note, i didn't use the top of the grip at all for these-- just pure pinch.
Sloper:
1: -5: Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.
2: -pin: Huh. Failed on the last rep. This was a step down. Think i was feeling the increases on the other grips.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard, no fail.
2: -75: Hard. Failed last second of last rep. This was a 5# increase. Much better. Think my hands are getting better at being in this configuration. Seemed to help to not shake out. Pinkies have to sorta unlock to shake out, and they don't like re-locking.
Really satisfying workout here, even if i was a li'l bummed to have to bump it back a coupla days. I can actually imagine adding weight to me for some of these grips for this season.
Got off target on hangboarding by a couple o' days 'cuz of work; but i did get 'er in today. Weighed in at 200.0lbs today fully clothed, but without a harness. One thing to say for taking 5 days 'twixt workouts instead of 3 is i was fully healed. Went up on several grips today from last time. That's a shot in the arm.
Warmup Jug: -15: Heavy breakfast and a 15 second warmup weighing in.
Large Open Hand:
1: -20: Burned, but not hard.
2: -10: Not too hard. Didn't shake out here, and that helped. Could go up next time.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -50: Hard at the end, but no fail. This was a 5# increase. Taped F4 up front and it helped.
2: -40: Again, a 5# increase. No fail. Could bump it up again.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -27.5: Ok. Found some 2.5# plates, and thought i'd creep up, but coulda gone bigger.
2: -15: Really not bad still. Could increase again next time.
F2,3,4 Pocket:
1: -15: Hard. Take off the F4 tape next time. This was a 5# increase.
2: -5: Harder, but no fail. Taking the tape off helped. Again a 5# bump :)
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed last second of last rep. Taking the tape off helped. Definitely stronger on these.
2: -45: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps. Much better. Of note, i didn't use the top of the grip at all for these-- just pure pinch.
Sloper:
1: -5: Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.
2: -pin: Huh. Failed on the last rep. This was a step down. Think i was feeling the increases on the other grips.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Hard, no fail.
2: -75: Hard. Failed last second of last rep. This was a 5# increase. Much better. Think my hands are getting better at being in this configuration. Seemed to help to not shake out. Pinkies have to sorta unlock to shake out, and they don't like re-locking.
Really satisfying workout here, even if i was a li'l bummed to have to bump it back a coupla days. I can actually imagine adding weight to me for some of these grips for this season.
Saturday, December 20, 2014
"Endurance" ...and moving right along-
Fairly easy to sum up this last week of ARCing. It was supposed to be three days in a row of it--pretty brutal week for a fat guy; but i got a stomach bug Tues night, got off work way late on Mon and Wed night, so i managed to squish one night of it in on Thurs. Did get 3 sets of 30 mins with (almost exactly) 5 mins of rest between. And even then the li'l kids that run the climbing wall were so anxious to get home after probably 2 solid hours of "work" that they booted me about 10 secs before the end of my last set. And to make it all even funnier, i didn't do ironwork on Mon 'cuz i figured it'd ruin me for the enduro sets. Meh. What're ya gunna do? If i'd'a' been meant to be a good climber, i'd have been born somewhere beside Pancake Flats. Good thing i did that Hangboardy workout last weekend.
Anyhow: did manage to get in today's Hangboard workout, which is the official #1 (in spite of apparently having a second round of the gut wyrm). And it went quite well, i'd say.
Warmup Jug: -15: Fine
Large Open Hand:
1: -20: Tired still. F3 to the first dimple, which smalleneth the hold a bit.
2: -10: Better. This time i did it with no shake outs, so i wasn't struggling to get back to the right spot on time between reps.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -55: Ok, but painful on the rings.
2: -45: Ok again, but painful. Think i need to tape f4. And increase next time.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: F3 to the first dimple (2nd rail). Definitely made it harder.
2: -20: Again F3 to the dimple. Very hard, but no fail. Only concern is i'm doing more of an open half-pad meathook than a proper crimp. But i really didn't feel warm enough to hyperextend my DIPs.
F2,3,4 pocket:
1: -20: Ok.
2: -10: Hardish at the end. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2: -45: Took my pinkie tape off 'twixt set 1 and 2 and it helped. Total fail on the last rep, but i really didn't fail up to that point. Gotta take the tape off sooner.
Sloper:
1: -5: Fail last rep. :)
2: BW: Failed in the last second of the last rep. :))
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Didn't exactly fail...
2: -80: Again, i didn't really fail, but i'm not sure i'm grabbing these right. It's a very awkward, weird grip, and it works my hands in a way i think they've ne'er been worked before. But also the holds kinda force my thumbs up against an orthogonal surface, so i tended to externally rotate my upper arms to lock down on--really the whole board. I don't think that's seriously cheating (seeing as i'm still taking 80+lbs off'n my lardmass), but it's a strange grip. I do foresee making some sizable gains on this one.
I was very pleased (and a li'l surprised) by this workout. For one, i really haven't lost any strength from the last season. But also i felt like i'd eaten an ice pick this morning, and i really didn't think i'd pull out a formidable workout. Very good start, and it should be a ton easier to get these workouts in than the ARCing. Won't have to bank on non-climber college punks allowing me to work out.
Anyhow: did manage to get in today's Hangboard workout, which is the official #1 (in spite of apparently having a second round of the gut wyrm). And it went quite well, i'd say.
Warmup Jug: -15: Fine
Large Open Hand:
1: -20: Tired still. F3 to the first dimple, which smalleneth the hold a bit.
2: -10: Better. This time i did it with no shake outs, so i wasn't struggling to get back to the right spot on time between reps.
F3,4 Pocket:
1: -55: Ok, but painful on the rings.
2: -45: Ok again, but painful. Think i need to tape f4. And increase next time.
SemiClosed Crimp:
1: -30: F3 to the first dimple (2nd rail). Definitely made it harder.
2: -20: Again F3 to the dimple. Very hard, but no fail. Only concern is i'm doing more of an open half-pad meathook than a proper crimp. But i really didn't feel warm enough to hyperextend my DIPs.
F2,3,4 pocket:
1: -20: Ok.
2: -10: Hardish at the end. Increase.
Wide Pinch:
1: -55: Failed at the end of the last 3 reps.
2: -45: Took my pinkie tape off 'twixt set 1 and 2 and it helped. Total fail on the last rep, but i really didn't fail up to that point. Gotta take the tape off sooner.
Sloper:
1: -5: Fail last rep. :)
2: BW: Failed in the last second of the last rep. :))
Narrow Pinch:
1: -85: Didn't exactly fail...
2: -80: Again, i didn't really fail, but i'm not sure i'm grabbing these right. It's a very awkward, weird grip, and it works my hands in a way i think they've ne'er been worked before. But also the holds kinda force my thumbs up against an orthogonal surface, so i tended to externally rotate my upper arms to lock down on--really the whole board. I don't think that's seriously cheating (seeing as i'm still taking 80+lbs off'n my lardmass), but it's a strange grip. I do foresee making some sizable gains on this one.
I was very pleased (and a li'l surprised) by this workout. For one, i really haven't lost any strength from the last season. But also i felt like i'd eaten an ice pick this morning, and i really didn't think i'd pull out a formidable workout. Very good start, and it should be a ton easier to get these workouts in than the ARCing. Won't have to bank on non-climber college punks allowing me to work out.
Sunday, December 14, 2014
MakeShift (Pre-Hangboarding Hangboarding)
There was no getting out of doors for the weekend for "outdoor mileage". And the idiot gym closes at 12:00 on saturdays. So i did a li'l a priori hangboarding yesterday and today to see how the ol' strength is compared to where i left off. And it wasn't too bad, honestly. I'm doing the intermediate routine which is a bit different. Sets and reps are shorter and there're 8 different grips 'stead of 9-- it trades the medium pinch and F3,4,5 pocket for a narrow pinch. But you do 2 sets of everything, so the time under tension is almost 1.5 mins longer, and the rests are shorter 'twixt reps. The first set of everything is 7 reps; the second set is 6 reps. All the reps are 7 secs with 3 secs' rest between. It's 3 mins of rest between sets.
As above, there're 2 sets of everything (excepting the warmup jug), and one's s'posed to start with a "baseline" weight, then add 10# for set 2. This was largely experimental, so i fudged on some of the starting weights so's not to die on set 2. Failed on surprisingly few of 'em. Also i did this split in approximately half between saturday and sunday. Got through the semi-crimp on saturday, then repeated it today for the starting exercise.
Warmup Jug: -15: Easy.
Large Open Hand:
1: -25: Felt tired, but this was easy
2: -10: Tired. No fail.
F3,4 pocket:
1: -55: Hard.
2: -45: Hard on last rep. No fail. This was 5# off of where i stopped last season. Not bad.
Semi-closed Crimp:
1: -30: Right.
2: -20: Hard on last rep. No fail. [As above, i repeated this today for an opener after a short warmup.]
F2,3,4 2-pad pocket:
1: -20
2: -10: Very hard at the end. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2: -45: Failed at the end of the last 2 reps. :))
Sloper:
1: -10: Hard. No fail.
2: -Pin: Hmm...took off the pinkie tape and this really didn't feel bad. No fail.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: This was experimental--never tried these before. And they sucked hard. Massive fail.
2: -80: I got most of 'em with this weight, but i still failed on 3 or 4 sets. Very hard to get the hang of these. Very weird grip. Very hard to make me lift my feet off the ground without thinking i was just gunna fall straight onto my coccyx. This could be the money grip for the season. Lotta room for improvement here. Fortunately i haven't even officially started hangboarding yet this season, so i haven't lost any time trying to dial weights.
Over all, this was a very encouraging workout. I'm really looking forward to getting stronger. This'll be the last week of endurance, and it's looking to be a long, hard, daunting one. Vamos a ver.
As above, there're 2 sets of everything (excepting the warmup jug), and one's s'posed to start with a "baseline" weight, then add 10# for set 2. This was largely experimental, so i fudged on some of the starting weights so's not to die on set 2. Failed on surprisingly few of 'em. Also i did this split in approximately half between saturday and sunday. Got through the semi-crimp on saturday, then repeated it today for the starting exercise.
Warmup Jug: -15: Easy.
Large Open Hand:
1: -25: Felt tired, but this was easy
2: -10: Tired. No fail.
F3,4 pocket:
1: -55: Hard.
2: -45: Hard on last rep. No fail. This was 5# off of where i stopped last season. Not bad.
Semi-closed Crimp:
1: -30: Right.
2: -20: Hard on last rep. No fail. [As above, i repeated this today for an opener after a short warmup.]
F2,3,4 2-pad pocket:
1: -20
2: -10: Very hard at the end. No fail.
Wide Pinch:
1: -50: Very hard. Failed on last rep. :)
2: -45: Failed at the end of the last 2 reps. :))
Sloper:
1: -10: Hard. No fail.
2: -Pin: Hmm...took off the pinkie tape and this really didn't feel bad. No fail.
Narrow Pinch:
1: -70: This was experimental--never tried these before. And they sucked hard. Massive fail.
2: -80: I got most of 'em with this weight, but i still failed on 3 or 4 sets. Very hard to get the hang of these. Very weird grip. Very hard to make me lift my feet off the ground without thinking i was just gunna fall straight onto my coccyx. This could be the money grip for the season. Lotta room for improvement here. Fortunately i haven't even officially started hangboarding yet this season, so i haven't lost any time trying to dial weights.
Over all, this was a very encouraging workout. I'm really looking forward to getting stronger. This'll be the last week of endurance, and it's looking to be a long, hard, daunting one. Vamos a ver.
Saturday, December 13, 2014
Deep Fried
Tuesday i went in for abs and dips, etc, but i got roped into climbing, and honestly just tore it up there. Really much too good a day of climbing. Ended up working some spicy routage when i wasn't supposed to be climbing at all. I consider that ok, cuz there're only two weeks of endurance training on this season-- so i figure the denser the better, yeah?
Anyhow, climbed a while then hit the iron for a very flaccid sad session.
Hanging SLRs: Think i got 3 sets of 20 with much pain.
Dips: 3 x 15.
May have just left after this. Felt like poo. Bad workout, but at least it's on the books.
Was supposed to do ARC sesh # 2 on Wednesday, but i ended up working late and missed the chance. Might have worked out for the best, cuz i did yesterday (Thurs) instead, and i looked like Rocky after his first week of workouts. Two 35 min sets with 5 or 10 mins of rest between. First set went very well--felt strong. Second set i felt like i was dragging lead on a chain after about 10 minutes. And i guess i was: weighed in at 199 last night.
Gunna hafta get the diet under control, methinks.
Anyhow, climbed a while then hit the iron for a very flaccid sad session.
Hanging SLRs: Think i got 3 sets of 20 with much pain.
Dips: 3 x 15.
May have just left after this. Felt like poo. Bad workout, but at least it's on the books.
Was supposed to do ARC sesh # 2 on Wednesday, but i ended up working late and missed the chance. Might have worked out for the best, cuz i did yesterday (Thurs) instead, and i looked like Rocky after his first week of workouts. Two 35 min sets with 5 or 10 mins of rest between. First set went very well--felt strong. Second set i felt like i was dragging lead on a chain after about 10 minutes. And i guess i was: weighed in at 199 last night.
Gunna hafta get the diet under control, methinks.
Tuesday, December 9, 2014
ARC sesh 1 with iron
Interesting day of it yesterday. Did the first ARC session of the season, which was two 30min sets. Really didn't go badly. Think i actually felt stronger than usual on these, 'specially on the steep bits. Maybe last week's DB rows are paying off. Anyhow: markedly improved start compared to last season. Very encouraging.
Then (after a couple hours' rest babysitting) i hit the irongym for some back work. Had very low expectations for deads, mostly 'cuz i wasn't sure if i'd be able to hold the bar. But it went very well.
Deficit Deads: 21 floor touches, 21 with the bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Locked out both singles without too much trouble.
Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. That last set was hard.
Pullups: 25 x BW. Last rep was everything in the tank. 2 x 8 x BW+25, 2 x 5 x BW+45. Also hard. These were affected by the climbing.
DB Rows: 12 x 80 ea arm, 2 x 8 x 90 ea arm.
Straight Arm Cable Presses: Think i got up to 80# for a few sets of 6 or 8. These are still experimental. Used an 18" swivel bar and it seemed to help to start with my feet way back so i was sorta leaning into the cable. These are weird, but they sure feel like they're working my lats all the way to my spine.
Overall very good workout considering the hour of climbing that went before.
Tack on: Sat i did a sprint workout-- 6 x 20 sprints on a 10 sec interval.
Then (after a couple hours' rest babysitting) i hit the irongym for some back work. Had very low expectations for deads, mostly 'cuz i wasn't sure if i'd be able to hold the bar. But it went very well.
Deficit Deads: 21 floor touches, 21 with the bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Locked out both singles without too much trouble.
Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. That last set was hard.
Pullups: 25 x BW. Last rep was everything in the tank. 2 x 8 x BW+25, 2 x 5 x BW+45. Also hard. These were affected by the climbing.
DB Rows: 12 x 80 ea arm, 2 x 8 x 90 ea arm.
Straight Arm Cable Presses: Think i got up to 80# for a few sets of 6 or 8. These are still experimental. Used an 18" swivel bar and it seemed to help to start with my feet way back so i was sorta leaning into the cable. These are weird, but they sure feel like they're working my lats all the way to my spine.
Overall very good workout considering the hour of climbing that went before.
Tack on: Sat i did a sprint workout-- 6 x 20 sprints on a 10 sec interval.
Saturday, December 6, 2014
New Season
Fired up a new season of climbing yesterday. It was a start. It was not a good session.
S'posed to be "Outdoor Mileage", which should mock up the intensity and continuity of ARCing--except out of doors. But i couldn't get outside for the precip, so i did my 8 moderates in the gym. And i got my butt kicked. Everything in me felt tired, and i fell off of 5.9s and .10s.
For one, i didn't do a proper warmup, and just jumped on a route, and i got a mega-crazy flash pump that i couldn't seem to shake. But i also just felt .... i dunno .... stale. Arms felt dead, and i'm definitely not back to healed from the earlier workouts in the week. This has been the problem i've had in the past with trying to keep up the lifting whilst training to climb. They're both quite demanding on the muscle fiber front, and i find it demotivating to hit the iron for an intentionally sub-par workout. So i either go in and tear it down, and my climbing suffers, or i get tired of sucking and just stop lifting.
That's silly of course. There must be a happy medium. There must be because my climbing continues to suffer from my lack of discipline. So here's the plan: i'm gunna try to keep the heavy, gains-producing lifting up through the relatively shortened endurance period, and then through the strength phase this time 'round. The idea is that if i can coordinate 'em reasonably, my endurance form can suffer a li'l without seriously failing the goal (i.e. to build endurance), and the heavy lifting shouldn't affect the hangboarding at all. Then i can taper the lifting to a minimum during the power phase (when, hopefully, it'll have done me some good) and i won't have had a months-long lapse in lifting between ending and beginning. The trick here is to get set to kinda suck wind and feel a bit stale during my endurance workouts.
Really shouldn't be too hard, 'cuz i'm switching to the "intermediate" training plan for this season. That amounts to a shortened enduro phase and a lengthened strength and power phase. I'm super amped about experimenting with that, but it also (i'm hoping) suits my goal route for the coming season. Gunna get Three Roofs at Golf. Solid .12a. Yessiree Bob.
S'posed to be "Outdoor Mileage", which should mock up the intensity and continuity of ARCing--except out of doors. But i couldn't get outside for the precip, so i did my 8 moderates in the gym. And i got my butt kicked. Everything in me felt tired, and i fell off of 5.9s and .10s.
For one, i didn't do a proper warmup, and just jumped on a route, and i got a mega-crazy flash pump that i couldn't seem to shake. But i also just felt .... i dunno .... stale. Arms felt dead, and i'm definitely not back to healed from the earlier workouts in the week. This has been the problem i've had in the past with trying to keep up the lifting whilst training to climb. They're both quite demanding on the muscle fiber front, and i find it demotivating to hit the iron for an intentionally sub-par workout. So i either go in and tear it down, and my climbing suffers, or i get tired of sucking and just stop lifting.
That's silly of course. There must be a happy medium. There must be because my climbing continues to suffer from my lack of discipline. So here's the plan: i'm gunna try to keep the heavy, gains-producing lifting up through the relatively shortened endurance period, and then through the strength phase this time 'round. The idea is that if i can coordinate 'em reasonably, my endurance form can suffer a li'l without seriously failing the goal (i.e. to build endurance), and the heavy lifting shouldn't affect the hangboarding at all. Then i can taper the lifting to a minimum during the power phase (when, hopefully, it'll have done me some good) and i won't have had a months-long lapse in lifting between ending and beginning. The trick here is to get set to kinda suck wind and feel a bit stale during my endurance workouts.
Really shouldn't be too hard, 'cuz i'm switching to the "intermediate" training plan for this season. That amounts to a shortened enduro phase and a lengthened strength and power phase. I'm super amped about experimenting with that, but it also (i'm hoping) suits my goal route for the coming season. Gunna get Three Roofs at Golf. Solid .12a. Yessiree Bob.
Wednesday, December 3, 2014
Off Season
Nearing (read: crawling) to the end of a two-week "off season". That kinda amuses me: a two week off-season. But i wanna climb...kinda tweakin' here. Li'l hard to stay offa the walls. I'm trying to use the time constructively. Did--i think-- my third back workout on Monday, and finally got in some pushers and abs yesterday.
Mon 12/1/14
Deficit Deads: 21 x bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Second single with 445 i didn't quite lock, cuz the bar was unraveling. Something useful 'bout a bar with knurls.
Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. Really not that bad.
Pullups: 25 x BW, 10 x BW +25, 2 x 5 x BW +45. Got a li'l spicy on the last set.
DB Rows: 2 x 10 (ea arm) x 80, 2 x 6 x 90. Felt just fine.
Straight Arm Presses: Some weight for several sets. Experimenting with these-- i wanna get better control for Campusing. We'll see if these translate well.
Tues 12/2/14
Hanging SLRs: 4 x 20 no added weight. Actually made it through these, which was pleasantly surprising.
Dips: 4 x 15 BW: These got kinda hard. Very outta shape in the ol' triceps.
Decline Crunches: I dunno...several.
Cable Presses: Kindof a warmup set-ish or two, then 10 x 100, then 5 x 120, then 2 x 3ish x 130. Again, these are experimental for future Campusing, and i had a high enough rack to work with, so i took these to almost full forward flexion before each rep-- so they were really more like a pull-through, or a cable muscle-up or some such. Tried also to keep the bar out on my finger tips. Again, we'll see how these translate.
Abs are sore today. Hopefully will get to fire up the climbing prog again on Saturday. Vamos a ver.
Mon 12/1/14
Deficit Deads: 21 x bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345, 2 x 1 x 445. Second single with 445 i didn't quite lock, cuz the bar was unraveling. Something useful 'bout a bar with knurls.
Good Mornings: 12 x 95, 12 x 115, 12 x 135, 12 x 155. Really not that bad.
Pullups: 25 x BW, 10 x BW +25, 2 x 5 x BW +45. Got a li'l spicy on the last set.
DB Rows: 2 x 10 (ea arm) x 80, 2 x 6 x 90. Felt just fine.
Straight Arm Presses: Some weight for several sets. Experimenting with these-- i wanna get better control for Campusing. We'll see if these translate well.
Tues 12/2/14
Hanging SLRs: 4 x 20 no added weight. Actually made it through these, which was pleasantly surprising.
Dips: 4 x 15 BW: These got kinda hard. Very outta shape in the ol' triceps.
Decline Crunches: I dunno...several.
Cable Presses: Kindof a warmup set-ish or two, then 10 x 100, then 5 x 120, then 2 x 3ish x 130. Again, these are experimental for future Campusing, and i had a high enough rack to work with, so i took these to almost full forward flexion before each rep-- so they were really more like a pull-through, or a cable muscle-up or some such. Tried also to keep the bar out on my finger tips. Again, we'll see how these translate.
Abs are sore today. Hopefully will get to fire up the climbing prog again on Saturday. Vamos a ver.
Wednesday, November 26, 2014
Back
Yesterday i did some back work. Still keeping it fairly basic. Did deficit deads, good mornings, and weighted pullups.
Deficit Deads (all with 25# plates): 21 toe touches, 21 with the bar, 12 x 145 (SL), 8 x 245 (SL), 5 x 345 (not SL), 3 x 395 (These were hard), then 1 x 445 (strapped the Inzer on for this un). Very pleased to lock 445. That was my basic warmup for real lifting 4 or 5 months ago, but after limping through last week barely above paraplegia, i was a li'l nervous about hanging 445 off'n me spine. Surely am sore today, but not like last week.
Might just keep 'er simple and stick with deficits through the season. I know i lost a bit of strength in my back, but i can't say it's noticeably affected my climbing in any wise whatever. On the other hand, i can't say that having shed the mass and glycogen, etc, saw me divested of a net gram. So if i'm gunna stay the same basic weight whether i'm strong or weak, i'll take strong, thankyouverymuch. And something that remains a question mark is whether i'd have found it easier to shed some ballast with the sprinting, dieting, etc, if i'd'a' had the extra metabolism in my backstraps revved to the redline. Not sure. I am hanging around the 195 mark, which is about 5 lbs of loss from the beginning of the season.
Deficit Deads (all with 25# plates): 21 toe touches, 21 with the bar, 12 x 145 (SL), 8 x 245 (SL), 5 x 345 (not SL), 3 x 395 (These were hard), then 1 x 445 (strapped the Inzer on for this un). Very pleased to lock 445. That was my basic warmup for real lifting 4 or 5 months ago, but after limping through last week barely above paraplegia, i was a li'l nervous about hanging 445 off'n me spine. Surely am sore today, but not like last week.
Might just keep 'er simple and stick with deficits through the season. I know i lost a bit of strength in my back, but i can't say it's noticeably affected my climbing in any wise whatever. On the other hand, i can't say that having shed the mass and glycogen, etc, saw me divested of a net gram. So if i'm gunna stay the same basic weight whether i'm strong or weak, i'll take strong, thankyouverymuch. And something that remains a question mark is whether i'd have found it easier to shed some ballast with the sprinting, dieting, etc, if i'd'a' had the extra metabolism in my backstraps revved to the redline. Not sure. I am hanging around the 195 mark, which is about 5 lbs of loss from the beginning of the season.
Tuesday, November 25, 2014
Insgesamt
Ok... This time i'm really (seriously (fer totally reals)) calling it a season. And i can do so with a smile and a goal. Saturday i went climbing with a friend and we put some serious effort in on a Golf Wall .12a. Didn't clip the chains, but it felt very doable. Golf tends to be sandbagged, and they say of it it's the biggest holds you can't hold onto. And by "they" i mean absolutely everyone. You get on these heinously overhanging problems and eventually you find yourself saying This is so huge...it's all there...Why am i so friggin' pumped??!
At any rate, it was a fabulous way to stop climbing for a coupla weeks; and i'll come back into next season with a serious and (i think) very realistic goal. Three Roofs felt like the sort of problem that'd fit just very neatly after a solid month of hangboarding. I will (GOD allowing) get that one. Very psyched, and very impatient to start a new season.
Over the last few weeks i've squeezed in several sessions in the gym--some good and some very bad. That's all i'll say about that: Definitely time to take a couple o' weeks off climbing.
Saturday before last i finally got back in to the irongym. Did deficit deads... First time since maybe end of June. Only did a "warmup": think i worked up to 345 for 5. Then did some Good Mornings. And then i walked like a very old man for the following week. Did also get in some weighted pullup a coupla days later.
Really want to get some general strength back to start a new season. Gunna try to keep the full-body strength training up and better integrated this next go-round.
At any rate, it was a fabulous way to stop climbing for a coupla weeks; and i'll come back into next season with a serious and (i think) very realistic goal. Three Roofs felt like the sort of problem that'd fit just very neatly after a solid month of hangboarding. I will (GOD allowing) get that one. Very psyched, and very impatient to start a new season.
Over the last few weeks i've squeezed in several sessions in the gym--some good and some very bad. That's all i'll say about that: Definitely time to take a couple o' weeks off climbing.
Saturday before last i finally got back in to the irongym. Did deficit deads... First time since maybe end of June. Only did a "warmup": think i worked up to 345 for 5. Then did some Good Mornings. And then i walked like a very old man for the following week. Did also get in some weighted pullup a coupla days later.
Really want to get some general strength back to start a new season. Gunna try to keep the full-body strength training up and better integrated this next go-round.
Thursday, October 30, 2014
a few more
Seems like i climbed (like poo) Monday and Tuesday. I think sometime o'er the weekend i did a sprint workout. Yesterday i did nothing whatever. My forearms feel frayed and aged. Thinkin' i'm 'bout at the end o' the season. Think i might try one more day of it tomorrow if i get the chance.
Actually kinda looking forward to starting over with a new season. Have some things i wanna improve.
Actually kinda looking forward to starting over with a new season. Have some things i wanna improve.
Friday, October 24, 2014
Comp #2 this week
Climbed another comp last night. I could have won it, but Tuesday's session destroyed me. Failed on climbs and moves i've done many times and tired. Very good workout, but very sad comp. Planned that one way wrong. Ah well: it was still pretty fun.
End of the season is nigh.
End of the season is nigh.
Wednesday, October 22, 2014
Heavy Ketchup
Look like it been ten day since i posted up in yah. See if i can 'member what i done.
That monday (woulda been 10/13) i went back in and did manage to send that problem that'd been stumpin' me. It seems like i went back in about once more--probably Thurs-- for some climbing before YnY, but kept it reasonably low-volume what so's i might make a showing at el comp. Do believe i did a sprint workout somewhere in there.
Yank 'n' Yard!!: Really awesome problems. Didn't do too badly all things considered. Got 6th in my age group, but i was one harder problem off of third. Pretty tight grouping there. And i got to the silly thing half an hour late cuz the geniuses in NM DOT had I-25 completely shut down and let us know about that a hundred meters before it happened. So my warmup consisted of a v3 dyno problem. So: i do believe i could've performed better, but i ain't complainin'. And it was a blasty blast to do some creative problems. And the pro comp was the coolest i've seen yet.
Monday i think i climbed for a while in a largely humdrum, non-committal state. Then yesterday i went back in for a "warmup" just to get the mitts moving, and ended up having a stellar day of it. Sent some pretty hard problems after all was said and done.
Today i sprinted. Did 6 or 7 intervals of 20 secs. Didn't feel too hot. Li'l stressed. But it felt good to move.
Tomorrow there's a comp at the college. Ends up being a funny comp style, cuz all of us that actually compete have pretty much already done all the hard climbs, and have 'em wired-- 'cuz they put the routes up in some cases weeks ahead of time. So it ends up being more of a speed-endurance comp than a redpoint comp. You got like an hour and a half to do as many climbs as you can, so the goal is to do all of 'em in the time. Not a necessarily-bad setup, but it's definitely slanted to the locals. It pretty much comes down to who fell the fewest times. It might be a better format if it were timed. Anyhow, we'll see.
That monday (woulda been 10/13) i went back in and did manage to send that problem that'd been stumpin' me. It seems like i went back in about once more--probably Thurs-- for some climbing before YnY, but kept it reasonably low-volume what so's i might make a showing at el comp. Do believe i did a sprint workout somewhere in there.
Yank 'n' Yard!!: Really awesome problems. Didn't do too badly all things considered. Got 6th in my age group, but i was one harder problem off of third. Pretty tight grouping there. And i got to the silly thing half an hour late cuz the geniuses in NM DOT had I-25 completely shut down and let us know about that a hundred meters before it happened. So my warmup consisted of a v3 dyno problem. So: i do believe i could've performed better, but i ain't complainin'. And it was a blasty blast to do some creative problems. And the pro comp was the coolest i've seen yet.
Monday i think i climbed for a while in a largely humdrum, non-committal state. Then yesterday i went back in for a "warmup" just to get the mitts moving, and ended up having a stellar day of it. Sent some pretty hard problems after all was said and done.
Today i sprinted. Did 6 or 7 intervals of 20 secs. Didn't feel too hot. Li'l stressed. But it felt good to move.
Tomorrow there's a comp at the college. Ends up being a funny comp style, cuz all of us that actually compete have pretty much already done all the hard climbs, and have 'em wired-- 'cuz they put the routes up in some cases weeks ahead of time. So it ends up being more of a speed-endurance comp than a redpoint comp. You got like an hour and a half to do as many climbs as you can, so the goal is to do all of 'em in the time. Not a necessarily-bad setup, but it's definitely slanted to the locals. It pretty much comes down to who fell the fewest times. It might be a better format if it were timed. Anyhow, we'll see.
Sunday, October 12, 2014
Bould'rin'--you know, for endurance
Bouldered on Thurs and Fri as well, to make three days of it in a row. (Didn't honestly figure i'd get to climb over the weekend, and that's proving a good bet). Really spent almost the whole of both sessions (after warming up) on a single problem one of the setters put up as a stumper. As it worked out, i'd hurt my triceps a few days before, and couldn't work the sequence he'd obviously intended. So i found a much easier work around, and worked out all the moves on Thurs. But i was too spent to link. The finish match is the crux move for me; and although i did manage it, it comes after a really pretty long problem. So getting there with the Send Guns primed is gunna take a fresh day and some pixie dust.
At any rate, i worked all the moves on Thurs, but couldn't link. So i went back on Fri set on sending, and i started out working the finish move to wire it; but i couldn't manage it at all. I was getting a li'l withered and grey of mood until i tried the problem from the start and couldn't get the wonky middle roof bit at all either-- which i'd done 3 or 4 times in a row the day before. Interestingly, that satisfied me that i was simply too tired to climb, and not (as i was starting to accept) too weak. I think it'll go tomorrow.
Gunna try to keep this week light on the climbing, especially toward the end, 'cuz Yank 'n' Yard is next Sat. Be fun to pull down some numbers at that.
I'm'a try to squeeze a run in today if i get the chance.
[Aaaand did squeeze that run in. Brisk out, but still got the ol' HR up. 12 x 20sec sprint intervals with 10secs of rest between. 'Bout 18 mins total. ]
At any rate, i worked all the moves on Thurs, but couldn't link. So i went back on Fri set on sending, and i started out working the finish move to wire it; but i couldn't manage it at all. I was getting a li'l withered and grey of mood until i tried the problem from the start and couldn't get the wonky middle roof bit at all either-- which i'd done 3 or 4 times in a row the day before. Interestingly, that satisfied me that i was simply too tired to climb, and not (as i was starting to accept) too weak. I think it'll go tomorrow.
Gunna try to keep this week light on the climbing, especially toward the end, 'cuz Yank 'n' Yard is next Sat. Be fun to pull down some numbers at that.
I'm'a try to squeeze a run in today if i get the chance.
[Aaaand did squeeze that run in. Brisk out, but still got the ol' HR up. 12 x 20sec sprint intervals with 10secs of rest between. 'Bout 18 mins total. ]
Thursday, October 9, 2014
Divested of purpose
Climbed yesterday. It was not (as it perhaps should have been) a "power endurance" day. I bouldered. And it was fun. Got a couple o' good problems. First was the proj i was working on monday: an eliminate, direct of what's probably a v3. Seems like it'd go at about v5. Hard problem to me; and i've had some feedback from other folks that it's hard. Little bit amped to tag that one.
Also got a thin, crimpy problem-- prolly beta v3 or 4. Very sequence-dependent. Also a good 'un.
Then i did a bunch of other problems. Good workout and my tips are shredded, but no real injuries.
Also got a thin, crimpy problem-- prolly beta v3 or 4. Very sequence-dependent. Also a good 'un.
Then i did a bunch of other problems. Good workout and my tips are shredded, but no real injuries.
Tuesday, October 7, 2014
New week
Worked all day friday and saturday, so i got basically nuthin' done on the fitness front. Yesterday (monday) i got in a 12 min ARC warmup, and then worked a flippin' hard boulder problem for a good long while. Don't know quite what it'd go at--didn't manage the link; but the individual moves are hard. Did get 'em all, but i pulled a triceps muscle on a link burn, and that was pretty much the end. Neat route though.
Weighed in at 193.6 this morning. That's encouraging, but i think i can get to 190 or below before send time if i get a bit stricter on ye olde diet. Sprinted today. Same deal: 12 intervals of 20 secs hard with 10 secs' rest. Pretty day for it. i diggy October. But the coolness makes it harder to get my HR into range. I'll take it though.
Tomorrow's up in the air: wanna climb again if my humerus allows me to, but i might do something different so's to be rested for thursday. And that wouldn't be bad cuz i've no flesh left on my finger tips. Wanna do the Yank 'n' Yard on the 18th, and i need to be in good form for that. Plus that'll be the end of my first week of the Sending Phase. :)
Weighed in at 193.6 this morning. That's encouraging, but i think i can get to 190 or below before send time if i get a bit stricter on ye olde diet. Sprinted today. Same deal: 12 intervals of 20 secs hard with 10 secs' rest. Pretty day for it. i diggy October. But the coolness makes it harder to get my HR into range. I'll take it though.
Tomorrow's up in the air: wanna climb again if my humerus allows me to, but i might do something different so's to be rested for thursday. And that wouldn't be bad cuz i've no flesh left on my finger tips. Wanna do the Yank 'n' Yard on the 18th, and i need to be in good form for that. Plus that'll be the end of my first week of the Sending Phase. :)
Thursday, October 2, 2014
Mish Mash
[Addendum: i think i originally wrote the following on Wednesday, but i didn't manage to finish it till yesterday (thursday), after which i also did a sprint workout, that (obviously) i didn't post. So posting that bit up will thoroughly muck up the dates and tenses without this note.
Anyhow, sprinted yesterday. 7 min warmup HR in the 140s, then 12 intervals of 20 sec sprinting with 10 sec rests between. Nice cool weather.
Shoulda been 10/2/14.]
Guess i have a catchup to do. Monday i did, indeed, go back to the gym. Worked on that problem again, and tried it on lead after i'd worked out a sequence. But my first time up i was in a precarious hand swap, and made the mistake of looking down at my belayer who was staring into space. Yelled to get his attention, but got no eye contact. So i just dropped rather than risk blowing a clip. Li'l miffed. Next burn i was just too tired. Really not a good session, even though i got a decent workout outta it.
Today i went back to do some boulder circuits. 12 min ARC warmup. Then i got sidetracked for a good long while working a new boulder problem. Good time, and a crimpy powerful problem to be sure, but i didn't exactly get the correct "power endurance" training stimulus.
Then i switched to my boulder circuit problem. That's getting a li'l depressing. Still have never actually finished it. Notwithstanding, i made some tweaks to it, and it's way more doable and fully linked now. So i think i could do it a few times were i fresh. It's just bumming that it's taken me most of the PE phase to hone a workable route. Eh, well, i'll have a much better idea of what i need for next season; and i have definitely gotten some good PE workouts in on routes.
Next week calls for route intervals instead of the linked boulder circuit. This weekend i'm supposed to do some redpointing, but i work all day friday and saturday, so it's iffy.
Anyhow, sprinted yesterday. 7 min warmup HR in the 140s, then 12 intervals of 20 sec sprinting with 10 sec rests between. Nice cool weather.
Shoulda been 10/2/14.]
Guess i have a catchup to do. Monday i did, indeed, go back to the gym. Worked on that problem again, and tried it on lead after i'd worked out a sequence. But my first time up i was in a precarious hand swap, and made the mistake of looking down at my belayer who was staring into space. Yelled to get his attention, but got no eye contact. So i just dropped rather than risk blowing a clip. Li'l miffed. Next burn i was just too tired. Really not a good session, even though i got a decent workout outta it.
Today i went back to do some boulder circuits. 12 min ARC warmup. Then i got sidetracked for a good long while working a new boulder problem. Good time, and a crimpy powerful problem to be sure, but i didn't exactly get the correct "power endurance" training stimulus.
Then i switched to my boulder circuit problem. That's getting a li'l depressing. Still have never actually finished it. Notwithstanding, i made some tweaks to it, and it's way more doable and fully linked now. So i think i could do it a few times were i fresh. It's just bumming that it's taken me most of the PE phase to hone a workable route. Eh, well, i'll have a much better idea of what i need for next season; and i have definitely gotten some good PE workouts in on routes.
Next week calls for route intervals instead of the linked boulder circuit. This weekend i'm supposed to do some redpointing, but i work all day friday and saturday, so it's iffy.
Sunday, September 28, 2014
Treading
Sprinted again today. Rained a bunch last night and today, so it was very muddy, but was also much cooler than heretofore. Kinda nice, really. Basically the same workout as a few days ago: 12 x 20 sec sprints with 10 secs rest between, although on the last few sets i skipped the rests. So a bit more'n 4 mins of sprinting. Seven mins warmup and a small cool down.
Not a great last few days on the diet front. Weighed in this morning at 195.0. Frowny face. But i'm still in the game.
Yesterday i clumb. Went to the gym with the Anne, and i tried to pull down a "12c" on toprope. I very much doubt the "c" part, although i can believe it's a 12. I've gotten it before on toprope, and've aaaaalmost scored it on lead; but the last clip is mighty sketchy. I was hoping to stroll in and walk it on TR after the season's training, and just didn't. Li'l discouraging-- but on the other hand, my hands felt arthritic yesterday. Also i had somewhere in the vicinity of no faith at all in my belayer, which didn't help. Think i woulda rather had Annie on the other end of the rope.
Anyhow, planning on sneaking back in tomorrow for another go.
And on the diet front, i think i need to totally cut nuts out. One of those easy "good-for-you" very high calorie snacks that i've a serious weakness for; and i think i could stay on track with this diet suffering if i could not have the mixed nuts available.
Not a great last few days on the diet front. Weighed in this morning at 195.0. Frowny face. But i'm still in the game.
Yesterday i clumb. Went to the gym with the Anne, and i tried to pull down a "12c" on toprope. I very much doubt the "c" part, although i can believe it's a 12. I've gotten it before on toprope, and've aaaaalmost scored it on lead; but the last clip is mighty sketchy. I was hoping to stroll in and walk it on TR after the season's training, and just didn't. Li'l discouraging-- but on the other hand, my hands felt arthritic yesterday. Also i had somewhere in the vicinity of no faith at all in my belayer, which didn't help. Think i woulda rather had Annie on the other end of the rope.
Anyhow, planning on sneaking back in tomorrow for another go.
And on the diet front, i think i need to totally cut nuts out. One of those easy "good-for-you" very high calorie snacks that i've a serious weakness for; and i think i could stay on track with this diet suffering if i could not have the mixed nuts available.
Friday, September 26, 2014
Sprint
Sprinted today. Ca. a 7 min warmup (although it was 1 beeellion degrees out and my HR shot up to about 170 on takeoff), then basically 12 intervals of 20 secs with 10 sec rests between for just over 4 mins of total sprinting. Not a bad go of it. I think i managed not to sleep too well the night. Li'l tired outta the chute.
Yesterday i did nothing whatever, being imprisoned, as it were, in my car for the day. I did, notwithstanding, weigh in at 193.0 lbs. first thing. That's encouraging. Makes me think i might actually dip below 190 for send time. That'd just be spiffy. And i will send 5.12.
My hands still feel thrashed. Whatever else i might be accomplishing with these workouts, they're breaking my widdle pingers down. Does seem like i didn't manage to get the prescribed amount of rest between the prior two, which should have some explanatory power. Hopefully Sunday'll show me some happy, wholesome hands.
Yesterday i did nothing whatever, being imprisoned, as it were, in my car for the day. I did, notwithstanding, weigh in at 193.0 lbs. first thing. That's encouraging. Makes me think i might actually dip below 190 for send time. That'd just be spiffy. And i will send 5.12.
My hands still feel thrashed. Whatever else i might be accomplishing with these workouts, they're breaking my widdle pingers down. Does seem like i didn't manage to get the prescribed amount of rest between the prior two, which should have some explanatory power. Hopefully Sunday'll show me some happy, wholesome hands.
Wednesday, September 24, 2014
4 x 4 fer real. Ish.
Actually came up with a real live linked boulder circuit today. Very hard. Probably a li'l too hard, cuz i never actually linked it. But i did it basically 4 times before i was fried.
Did a 20 min ARC sesh, then did some bouldering. Then up-climbed a v2ish thing, down-climbed a v1ish thing, up-climbed a 3+/4-ish deal, then down-climbed another v2- kind of thing. Just kept getting shut down on the 3rd problem, cuz there's a sloper i just couldn't stick without chalk.
But i felt like it's doable. And i was definitely not crisp and fresh. Still feeling beaten up from Sunday. So i think the circuit will work ok for future trainings. And i think it served its purpose for today.
On a separate note, i did a tabata workout yesterday-- same style i've been doing. Uninspired, but it went.
And what is it about me needing a decline bench for crunches on a timer that inexorably magnetizes the otherwise-dusty bench to elderly, slow people....? "Hey that guy's eyeing the decline-- i suddenly feel like i need to stimulate my abdominal wall! YeeHaw!"
Did a 20 min ARC sesh, then did some bouldering. Then up-climbed a v2ish thing, down-climbed a v1ish thing, up-climbed a 3+/4-ish deal, then down-climbed another v2- kind of thing. Just kept getting shut down on the 3rd problem, cuz there's a sloper i just couldn't stick without chalk.
But i felt like it's doable. And i was definitely not crisp and fresh. Still feeling beaten up from Sunday. So i think the circuit will work ok for future trainings. And i think it served its purpose for today.
On a separate note, i did a tabata workout yesterday-- same style i've been doing. Uninspired, but it went.
And what is it about me needing a decline bench for crunches on a timer that inexorably magnetizes the otherwise-dusty bench to elderly, slow people....? "Hey that guy's eyeing the decline-- i suddenly feel like i need to stimulate my abdominal wall! YeeHaw!"
Monday, September 22, 2014
Linked Boulder Circuit. Ish.
So then, Sunday Aeon and i went with some friendlies to a real live boulder. I haven't bouldered outside in many, many, many moons. That is 1) way fun, and 2) a total head trip. I have issues with topping out 20 feet off the ground. Just kept imagining my femurs buckling. Having gotten over parts of that, it was a ton of fun. Went out with the idea of Aeon doing some climbing (which he did in limited quantities... Watching my 9yo stepping across a yawning abyss 20' up is nerve-wracking); but also to pull off a linked boulder circuit, for which i'd need something like a few v3s, maybe something v2ish, and something v4ish. There was a v3, which i managed, but then we got sidetracked working a couple of v5ish things, one of which i managed to campus.
There is now no flesh left on my volar mitts. But we did some very hard, fun climbing. Can't call what we did any sort of circuit, so i can't say i accomplished my training goal for the session; but i'm at least nominally better equipped for route-sending as a result.
Next session is wednesday, and that'll hafta be at the gym-- so i should be able to keep it real and disciplined.
Today i did a sprint workout. Felt pretty good. Did 6 intervals of 20 secs with 10 secs of rest between, then decided to keep on, rested 10 secs, and did two 50 sec intervals with 10 secs between. Those hurt.
But i weighed in at 197 this morning-- i have somehow fallen off the wagon-- and that's unacceptable. I want to send 5.12 next month.
There is now no flesh left on my volar mitts. But we did some very hard, fun climbing. Can't call what we did any sort of circuit, so i can't say i accomplished my training goal for the session; but i'm at least nominally better equipped for route-sending as a result.
Next session is wednesday, and that'll hafta be at the gym-- so i should be able to keep it real and disciplined.
Today i did a sprint workout. Felt pretty good. Did 6 intervals of 20 secs with 10 secs of rest between, then decided to keep on, rested 10 secs, and did two 50 sec intervals with 10 secs between. Those hurt.
But i weighed in at 197 this morning-- i have somehow fallen off the wagon-- and that's unacceptable. I want to send 5.12 next month.
Saturday, September 20, 2014
Enough power! On to PE
Finished out the last limit boulder session today. Was supposed to do this one on saturday (which technically it now is), but that couldn't happen; so i did on one day of rest. Frankly, not worth it-- not a good session, and i was noteably drained. Anyhow, that puts me back on schedule with the book.
Warmed up with a 20 min ARC go. Felt really tired there.
Otherwise did a crappy warmup, and basically skipped the boulder ladder.
Friend and i did take some burns on a few limit problems, but i can hardly say i managed to generate max effort. Very tired, and still a bit too worn down from campusing. Definitely got some sore nubbins out of it, but just didn't climb like i wanted.
I am looking forward to the linked boulder circuits and the just plain hard climbing of the power endurance phase.
Warmed up with a 20 min ARC go. Felt really tired there.
Otherwise did a crappy warmup, and basically skipped the boulder ladder.
Friend and i did take some burns on a few limit problems, but i can hardly say i managed to generate max effort. Very tired, and still a bit too worn down from campusing. Definitely got some sore nubbins out of it, but just didn't climb like i wanted.
I am looking forward to the linked boulder circuits and the just plain hard climbing of the power endurance phase.
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Campus #3
Weighed in at 195 today with clothes on.
Had a very good, and interesting campus workout today. The trick all along with campusing has been getting a decent warmup up in before engaging the ol' board. There's no campus board at the gym, and i still don't have a proper wall up at home, so i've been stuck warming up, then generally finding a 2 or 3 hour gap 'til i get to campus.
Today i did a really very fine warmup on the hangboard. Worked out great. And while i'd still very much love to get the Moon wall up and going, that's one fewer thing to worry about for now.
Did an up-down-up on the oversized rungs for a warmup, basic ladder style.
The rest was on the XL rungs (2x4s).
Did a set of matching ladder with each hand leading.
Did a couple of sets of basic ladders to r6-- which is my highest rung on those, on Moon spacing-- with each hand leading.
Then i did several max ladders.
B2-R4-L5-match
B2-L4-R5-match: No problems
B2-R5-L6-match
B2-L5-R6-match: Did 2 sets of these each hand leading. No problems.
B2-R4-L6-match
B2-L4-R6-match: Failed (again) going to r6 with both hands on the first set. Then i thought about it, analyzed it, considered readjusting body position, turned the music up, and sent to the match with both hands leading for 2 more sets. Very important (and totally unnatural) to keep the trailing hand engaged, and that hip turned in toward the wall, so that you're pressing with triceps until the dead point. Once i talked my arms and butt into doing it, these felt relatively easy. And that's a nice feeling.
B1-R4-L6 then
B1-L4-R6: Touched the r6 with both hands, but didn't get over the top of the rung with either hand. That's a big move. Gunna take more analyzin'; but i reckon that'll be for next seeason. At any rate, i tried two sets with each hand leading. Managed to tear a pretty flapper on my index finger on the last rep. Good workout.
That's the last campus sesh this time 'round. One more limit boulder session on saturday, then to power-endurance (and, hopefully, some sending).
Had a very good, and interesting campus workout today. The trick all along with campusing has been getting a decent warmup up in before engaging the ol' board. There's no campus board at the gym, and i still don't have a proper wall up at home, so i've been stuck warming up, then generally finding a 2 or 3 hour gap 'til i get to campus.
Today i did a really very fine warmup on the hangboard. Worked out great. And while i'd still very much love to get the Moon wall up and going, that's one fewer thing to worry about for now.
Did an up-down-up on the oversized rungs for a warmup, basic ladder style.
The rest was on the XL rungs (2x4s).
Did a set of matching ladder with each hand leading.
Did a couple of sets of basic ladders to r6-- which is my highest rung on those, on Moon spacing-- with each hand leading.
Then i did several max ladders.
B2-R4-L5-match
B2-L4-R5-match: No problems
B2-R5-L6-match
B2-L5-R6-match: Did 2 sets of these each hand leading. No problems.
B2-R4-L6-match
B2-L4-R6-match: Failed (again) going to r6 with both hands on the first set. Then i thought about it, analyzed it, considered readjusting body position, turned the music up, and sent to the match with both hands leading for 2 more sets. Very important (and totally unnatural) to keep the trailing hand engaged, and that hip turned in toward the wall, so that you're pressing with triceps until the dead point. Once i talked my arms and butt into doing it, these felt relatively easy. And that's a nice feeling.
B1-R4-L6 then
B1-L4-R6: Touched the r6 with both hands, but didn't get over the top of the rung with either hand. That's a big move. Gunna take more analyzin'; but i reckon that'll be for next seeason. At any rate, i tried two sets with each hand leading. Managed to tear a pretty flapper on my index finger on the last rep. Good workout.
That's the last campus sesh this time 'round. One more limit boulder session on saturday, then to power-endurance (and, hopefully, some sending).
Wednesday, September 17, 2014
Sprint
Did a short warmup, then some sprinting today. 6 intervals at 20 secs each with 10 sec's rest between. Getting easier.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Limit Boulder 3
Good times bouldering tonight. Got some friends in on it, and that's way mo' motivating. We actually came up with some problems that might qualify as limit stuff.
Did 15 mins of ARCing, then a bunch of warmup bouldering. Then gave 5 or 6 or 7ish burns to about 3 problems. Very good effort in there.
Also of note, we did some climbin' yesterday, and then la hija y yo did a tabata. Same basic deal: pullups, SLRs, dips, and crunches. Now i'm terribly tired. Peace.
Did 15 mins of ARCing, then a bunch of warmup bouldering. Then gave 5 or 6 or 7ish burns to about 3 problems. Very good effort in there.
Also of note, we did some climbin' yesterday, and then la hija y yo did a tabata. Same basic deal: pullups, SLRs, dips, and crunches. Now i'm terribly tired. Peace.
Saturday, September 13, 2014
Campus #2 (and some climbing)
Counting thursday's "warmup" bouldering comp as a limit boulder session. Did get third place overall. Can't feel too bad about that.
Finally campused. (I will assume that's the correct past tense of campus). Campus sesh numma two almost a week out. Actually went really well.
First we climbed. Annie led her first climb outside: a 5.6. It was way easy for her, but i think she needed a confidence boost. Then she managed to work the moves out on an 11b on TR. :)
I led the same 11, and climbed it again on TR, and that worked out to be a really nice warmup for campusing. Still haven't been able to order the "large" and "medium" rungs; but i'm having fun on my "extra large" and "XXL" rungs. Spacing for these is standard Moon spacing: 22cm.
Did an up-n-down ladder on the XXL rungs.
Then a matching ladder, leading with each hand, on the XL.
Then basic ladders, again leading with each.
Those were pretty easy, so i decided to try some max ladders. First i skipped from rung (r) 2-4L then r5 R. Then same leading R. Pretty easy.
Then i tried r2-5L to r6R. Same leading R. Failed getting to the match on r6 both hands first two tries, but then i got it both hands leading for a couple of reps. Really hafta think about pulling down with the trailing hand simultaneously.
Then i tried r2-4L to r6R, and that was way harder. Tried a coupla sets with each hand leading, but i couldn't stick the second rung. Gave it what fer though. I think i'll get that. Not sure yet why it's so much harder-- same overall distance in the same number of moves. But it's harder.
Finally campused. (I will assume that's the correct past tense of campus). Campus sesh numma two almost a week out. Actually went really well.
First we climbed. Annie led her first climb outside: a 5.6. It was way easy for her, but i think she needed a confidence boost. Then she managed to work the moves out on an 11b on TR. :)
I led the same 11, and climbed it again on TR, and that worked out to be a really nice warmup for campusing. Still haven't been able to order the "large" and "medium" rungs; but i'm having fun on my "extra large" and "XXL" rungs. Spacing for these is standard Moon spacing: 22cm.
Did an up-n-down ladder on the XXL rungs.
Then a matching ladder, leading with each hand, on the XL.
Then basic ladders, again leading with each.
Those were pretty easy, so i decided to try some max ladders. First i skipped from rung (r) 2-4L then r5 R. Then same leading R. Pretty easy.
Then i tried r2-5L to r6R. Same leading R. Failed getting to the match on r6 both hands first two tries, but then i got it both hands leading for a couple of reps. Really hafta think about pulling down with the trailing hand simultaneously.
Then i tried r2-4L to r6R, and that was way harder. Tried a coupla sets with each hand leading, but i couldn't stick the second rung. Gave it what fer though. I think i'll get that. Not sure yet why it's so much harder-- same overall distance in the same number of moves. But it's harder.
Thursday, September 11, 2014
Campus Fail
Weighed in at 193.6# today. That's encouraging.
Yesterday i did a sprint workout. Think it ended up being 9 intervals, 20 secs each with 10 secs of rest between. About 18 mins in all including warm up/cool down. Really like those things. Even though i was sick, and felt like death.
Today i did a bouldering comp. Annie won the kids' comp, and Aeon got third. I was gunna use it to "warm up" for campusing, but i ended up climbing my bootie off, and couldn't hang from a campus rung now if i needed to. Did get third overall, and climbed about....i dunno... 24 problems. Hands are trashed.
good stuff.
Yesterday i did a sprint workout. Think it ended up being 9 intervals, 20 secs each with 10 secs of rest between. About 18 mins in all including warm up/cool down. Really like those things. Even though i was sick, and felt like death.
Today i did a bouldering comp. Annie won the kids' comp, and Aeon got third. I was gunna use it to "warm up" for campusing, but i ended up climbing my bootie off, and couldn't hang from a campus rung now if i needed to. Did get third overall, and climbed about....i dunno... 24 problems. Hands are trashed.
good stuff.
Tuesday, September 9, 2014
Blip
Odd one today. First i weighed in this morning at 194.8#. That's the first time in many, many moons i've cracked 195.
I'm trying out a new diet plan which i've come to call "not eating so friggin' much", and it's working like crazy!
Slated to do campus #2 tomorrow, but i wanted to get a workout in. Went in thinking i'd do a tabata with maybe just a pinch of climbing-- Kinda just to keep the mitts warm, you know. Got to the wall, and some friendlies were working a project, and i got egged into trying it. Flashed it pretty easily (but to be fair, it wasn't a hard problem), and it felt--- good.
So i threw down 10 mins of ARCing without chalk, which is kinda paradigmatic for me, as i generally chalk up about every single move. Then i sent the problem i was using the first 3 moves of yesterday for a "limit problem". I expect it was not a limit problem after all.
Funny how a problem can be super hard one day, then something clicks and it's just right there in front of you.
Anyhow, then i went and did the tabata: Pullups (19 & 13), SLRs (18 &14), Dips (20 & 15), and Decline crunches (21 & 17ish). This was a definite improvement...gettin a li'l easier. And i totally dig finishing a workout in 4 mins. Highly recommend.
So i've scrapped the idea of campusing tomorrow--i'll do it thursday. It'll work out better anyway. There's a bouldering comp thurs, and that'll make a very nice warmup. And i can get the kids in on it. :)
I'm trying out a new diet plan which i've come to call "not eating so friggin' much", and it's working like crazy!
Slated to do campus #2 tomorrow, but i wanted to get a workout in. Went in thinking i'd do a tabata with maybe just a pinch of climbing-- Kinda just to keep the mitts warm, you know. Got to the wall, and some friendlies were working a project, and i got egged into trying it. Flashed it pretty easily (but to be fair, it wasn't a hard problem), and it felt--- good.
So i threw down 10 mins of ARCing without chalk, which is kinda paradigmatic for me, as i generally chalk up about every single move. Then i sent the problem i was using the first 3 moves of yesterday for a "limit problem". I expect it was not a limit problem after all.
Funny how a problem can be super hard one day, then something clicks and it's just right there in front of you.
Anyhow, then i went and did the tabata: Pullups (19 & 13), SLRs (18 &14), Dips (20 & 15), and Decline crunches (21 & 17ish). This was a definite improvement...gettin a li'l easier. And i totally dig finishing a workout in 4 mins. Highly recommend.
So i've scrapped the idea of campusing tomorrow--i'll do it thursday. It'll work out better anyway. There's a bouldering comp thurs, and that'll make a very nice warmup. And i can get the kids in on it. :)
Monday, September 8, 2014
Limit Boulder #1
Limit bouldering is about putting together a two or three move problem with a dynamic finish that is actually harder than you can do. Ideally, it'd take a few working sessions to do.
Ya do a 20 min ARCing for a warmup; then a warmup boulder ladder: 3-4 problems each level from v0 up until you get to your flash level. Then "hard bouldering" for a few burns on problems above yer flash level. Then you do the limit stuff.
Interestingly, the "beginner" limit bouldering program calls for no limit bouldering.
i came up with a few anyhow, and it went ok i s'pose. Funny thing is there's really not much difference between trying to send a way hard problem and "limit bouldering". In other words, the first 3-4 moves on a v7ish problem might work out to be a limit problem to me. So the "hard bouldering" and "limit bouldering" work out to be about the same deal at my infantile level of climbing.
Ah well: i 'spect the several campusing sessions are gunna be the money this go round. Next sesh of those comes two days hence.
Ya do a 20 min ARCing for a warmup; then a warmup boulder ladder: 3-4 problems each level from v0 up until you get to your flash level. Then "hard bouldering" for a few burns on problems above yer flash level. Then you do the limit stuff.
Interestingly, the "beginner" limit bouldering program calls for no limit bouldering.
i came up with a few anyhow, and it went ok i s'pose. Funny thing is there's really not much difference between trying to send a way hard problem and "limit bouldering". In other words, the first 3-4 moves on a v7ish problem might work out to be a limit problem to me. So the "hard bouldering" and "limit bouldering" work out to be about the same deal at my infantile level of climbing.
Ah well: i 'spect the several campusing sessions are gunna be the money this go round. Next sesh of those comes two days hence.
Sunday, September 7, 2014
Campus Time (1st sesh)
[Addendum: managed to publish this today (sunday), but the campusing happened Friday. I did do a sprint workout today. About a 7 min warmup run--HR in the mid-140s-- then 7 sprint intervals of 20 secs at around HR 180, with 10 sec's rest between. Getting better at 'em. Also i weighed in at 196 this morning: lightest i've been in a long while. Diet's happening so far.]
Meaty. Campus day 1 was definitely hard, And, honestly, way too hodge-podge. Gunna hafta take the workout journal with me and keep it real and tight next time.
And that's not to say it wasn't a hardcore workout. Did the "warmup boulder ladder" basically correctly. Did 2 or so v0, 2 +/- v1s, 2 or 3 v2s, maybe a v3ish thing or two.
Then did the "serious bouldering". That's where things sorta unravelled. S'posed to give no more than 3 burns to 3 or so hard problems. Only i got sucked into giving a coupla problems what fer, and really probably spent 10 or 12 burns on a couple. Ergo, my hands already felt like figgy pudding when i finally got around to the campusing.
And honestly, i can't say the campusing didn't go well for my first go at it. I'm supposed to have "large," "medium," and "small" rungs on the board. I didn't know what that meant when i made my board, but according to Metolius, that'd come down to 1 1/4", 1", and 3/4" respectively. I do have some 3/4" rungs on the wall, but they are currently a cool-looking decoration. This workout calls for workouts on the large and medium rungs. I don't have anything that size. The next size up i have, i made out of routed 2x4s, so they come out to be 1 1/2"-- extra-large, i s'pose. And i felt good about being able to hang from those.
Did about 4 sets (two leading with each hand) of matching ladders for about four rungs, then 4 sets of basic ladders. Very hard, even without the medium rungs. I do plan to order some though.
I had some fear that this was on the same sort of schedule as the hangboarding: i.e. same workout every 3 days. But it ain't. It's campusing, then 2 full rest days, then limit bouldering, then one rest day, and repeat. Limit bouldering tomorrow, and i truly look forward to that.
Meaty. Campus day 1 was definitely hard, And, honestly, way too hodge-podge. Gunna hafta take the workout journal with me and keep it real and tight next time.
And that's not to say it wasn't a hardcore workout. Did the "warmup boulder ladder" basically correctly. Did 2 or so v0, 2 +/- v1s, 2 or 3 v2s, maybe a v3ish thing or two.
Then did the "serious bouldering". That's where things sorta unravelled. S'posed to give no more than 3 burns to 3 or so hard problems. Only i got sucked into giving a coupla problems what fer, and really probably spent 10 or 12 burns on a couple. Ergo, my hands already felt like figgy pudding when i finally got around to the campusing.
And honestly, i can't say the campusing didn't go well for my first go at it. I'm supposed to have "large," "medium," and "small" rungs on the board. I didn't know what that meant when i made my board, but according to Metolius, that'd come down to 1 1/4", 1", and 3/4" respectively. I do have some 3/4" rungs on the wall, but they are currently a cool-looking decoration. This workout calls for workouts on the large and medium rungs. I don't have anything that size. The next size up i have, i made out of routed 2x4s, so they come out to be 1 1/2"-- extra-large, i s'pose. And i felt good about being able to hang from those.
Did about 4 sets (two leading with each hand) of matching ladders for about four rungs, then 4 sets of basic ladders. Very hard, even without the medium rungs. I do plan to order some though.
I had some fear that this was on the same sort of schedule as the hangboarding: i.e. same workout every 3 days. But it ain't. It's campusing, then 2 full rest days, then limit bouldering, then one rest day, and repeat. Limit bouldering tomorrow, and i truly look forward to that.
Wednesday, September 3, 2014
HB #7 (Final)
Actually did a hangboard workout at the appropriate interval for once. Interesting workout and interesting day. This was the last HB workout for the season, so i wanted to get it right and go to the next phase psyched and strong. As such, i went in yesterday and worked a couple of limit boulder problems 'til my hands were mushy. Today i very intentionally didn't touch the climbin' wall; but to get the humours flowin', i did a tabata workout--same as last time. That went ok (excepting the doofus that decided to use my decline crunch bench as i was about to go to that, so that i had to do a third set of straight leg raises instead). Then i did some not-terribly-heavy DB rows and DB OH press. Then to work. Home again. Weighed in pre-workout at 199. And the HB sesh:
Set 1: Warm-up jug: -10: Easy. Bit distracted.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -15#: Kinda easy. This was a 5# increase. Nice vibe.
Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed): -20#: Kept this the same. felt a lot easier though. Li'l hard at the end. Not bad.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -20#: Fairly easy. Again, a 5# increase. That's happy juice.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: This was very hard. No fail. Nearly...
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10#: Very hard. Failed last rep. Taped prox to the F2 DIP for this un, and it helped.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Untaped F2 for this. Very hard. Felt great at first, then failed on the last 3 reps.
Set 8: Sloper: -5#: Very hard. Failed in the last half-second of the last rep.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: Hard. Dug deep, and no fail. Another 5# increase. :)
It would be hard to think how i could be more pleased with how this season has gone so far. In three weeks (give or take) i've added 10-15 lbs to nearly every grip on the roster, excepting i think wide pinch-- and i've gotten noticeably stronger on that one. And i've felt the gains crossing over into the boulder sessions. Looking forward to sending some hard lines in October.
Next comes power phase and the campusing. Li'l nervous 'bout that...
Set 1: Warm-up jug: -10: Easy. Bit distracted.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -15#: Kinda easy. This was a 5# increase. Nice vibe.
Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed): -20#: Kept this the same. felt a lot easier though. Li'l hard at the end. Not bad.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -20#: Fairly easy. Again, a 5# increase. That's happy juice.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: This was very hard. No fail. Nearly...
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10#: Very hard. Failed last rep. Taped prox to the F2 DIP for this un, and it helped.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Untaped F2 for this. Very hard. Felt great at first, then failed on the last 3 reps.
Set 8: Sloper: -5#: Very hard. Failed in the last half-second of the last rep.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: Hard. Dug deep, and no fail. Another 5# increase. :)
It would be hard to think how i could be more pleased with how this season has gone so far. In three weeks (give or take) i've added 10-15 lbs to nearly every grip on the roster, excepting i think wide pinch-- and i've gotten noticeably stronger on that one. And i've felt the gains crossing over into the boulder sessions. Looking forward to sending some hard lines in October.
Next comes power phase and the campusing. Li'l nervous 'bout that...
Sunday, August 31, 2014
HB #6, or whatever
Today i did yesterday's HB workout. That is because yesterday i went climbing with a friend, and we worked some routes. And my hands felt very much like arthritic poo. Beautiful place, Cascade; but a li'l harder "warmup" than i was wanting to do for hangboardin'.
SO: got 'er done this evening.
Set 1: Warm-up Jug: -10#: Harder today. Still easy. Feelin' yesterday.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -20#: Kept this the same today in view of ensuing increases for coming sets. Hard at the last rep, but not very hard. Increase next time.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -20#: This was a 5# increase. Definitely harder, but no fail. :)
Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Hardish, but no fail. Increase.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Failed last rep. Very hard. Again, definitely feeling yesterday. Hurt from the first rep, so i think it went surprisingly well.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: Hard. Failed last 2 reps. Mostly painful. Need to tape F2 prox to DIP.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed last 2 reps. Suffering for yesterday.
Set 8: Sloper: -5#: Very hard, but about right. Failed last few secs of last rep.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -30#: Hard, but no fail. If i were feelin' my oats next time, could increase.
This was a happily good workout considering yesterday's intensity. One HB workout to go. We'll see if i can actually pull it off on the correct day. At any rate, i'm loving this hangboarding deal. Definitely getting stronger.
SO: got 'er done this evening.
Set 1: Warm-up Jug: -10#: Harder today. Still easy. Feelin' yesterday.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -20#: Kept this the same today in view of ensuing increases for coming sets. Hard at the last rep, but not very hard. Increase next time.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -20#: This was a 5# increase. Definitely harder, but no fail. :)
Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Hardish, but no fail. Increase.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Failed last rep. Very hard. Again, definitely feeling yesterday. Hurt from the first rep, so i think it went surprisingly well.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: Hard. Failed last 2 reps. Mostly painful. Need to tape F2 prox to DIP.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed last 2 reps. Suffering for yesterday.
Set 8: Sloper: -5#: Very hard, but about right. Failed last few secs of last rep.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -30#: Hard, but no fail. If i were feelin' my oats next time, could increase.
This was a happily good workout considering yesterday's intensity. One HB workout to go. We'll see if i can actually pull it off on the correct day. At any rate, i'm loving this hangboarding deal. Definitely getting stronger.
Thursday, August 28, 2014
Ancillary Day
I've been recording the "supportive" workouts as more of a side note on hangboard days. But today's was rugged enough to deserve its own post.
Went in for some ARCing, and it was hard. Ended up doing 30 mins, but i actually peeled several times. Very tired.
Then i tried some bouldering, and that was not great.
Then i ventured into the irongym. Seems like my last iron workout was 2 months (+/-) ago. First did a tabata workout that went surprisingly well. That's 20 secs/workout with 10 secs of rest in between for 4 different workouts each set, then do it again for a total of 4 mins of pain. Did pullups, hanging straight leg raises, dips, and decline crunches. For set 1 i got 17 pullups, 18 SLRs, i think 17 dips, and about 18ish crunches. Set 2 got 12 pullups, i think 11 SLRs, maybe 10 or 11 dips, and around 14 crunches. Good ol' sweaty time.
Then i did the warmup for my deadlift workout: 21 floor touches, 21 straight leg deads with just the bar, 12 with 145# straight leg, 8 with 245# straight leg, 5 with 345# regular, all from a deficit with 25# plates. Didn't venture up to the usual 445#. No need for paraplegia. Prolly gunna pay for what i did do just plenty. But i have fa sho lost me some back strength. Good workout, notwithstanding.
Went in for some ARCing, and it was hard. Ended up doing 30 mins, but i actually peeled several times. Very tired.
Then i tried some bouldering, and that was not great.
Then i ventured into the irongym. Seems like my last iron workout was 2 months (+/-) ago. First did a tabata workout that went surprisingly well. That's 20 secs/workout with 10 secs of rest in between for 4 different workouts each set, then do it again for a total of 4 mins of pain. Did pullups, hanging straight leg raises, dips, and decline crunches. For set 1 i got 17 pullups, 18 SLRs, i think 17 dips, and about 18ish crunches. Set 2 got 12 pullups, i think 11 SLRs, maybe 10 or 11 dips, and around 14 crunches. Good ol' sweaty time.
Then i did the warmup for my deadlift workout: 21 floor touches, 21 straight leg deads with just the bar, 12 with 145# straight leg, 8 with 245# straight leg, 5 with 345# regular, all from a deficit with 25# plates. Didn't venture up to the usual 445#. No need for paraplegia. Prolly gunna pay for what i did do just plenty. But i have fa sho lost me some back strength. Good workout, notwithstanding.
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
HB #5 (or, technically, 6)
Yesterday i went to the gym and did a 20 min ARC session, and then bouldered some new routes. Kinda encouraging 'cuz i can tell my hands are stronger. Did manage to keep it reasonably light.
Today was [what i'm calling] HB workout numma 5.
Set 1: Warmup Jug: -10#: Hmmm...easy, but a li'l stale.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -20#: This was a 5# increase from last time. Harder, but still fairly easy. And that's encouraging.
Set 3: Medium Edge (SemiClosed): -25#: Again, a 5# increase. Definitely harder--maybe even hard; but no fail.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30#: Left this the same, and it felt easier than last time. Li'l hard at the end, but no fail. Could probably increase here. Huh.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Very hard. No fail, but close.
Set 6: Large open-hand Edge: -10#: No increase here. And, again, i took F2 to the inner dimple, and this time from the first rep. This felt very hard. No fail though.
Set 7: Wide Pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed on the last rep. Still better'n the last workout a smidge.
Set 8: Sloper: -whatever the plate pin weighs: This was a 10# increase--maybe a little hubris here. Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -30#: 5# increase. Had to dig deep, but didn't fail.
Very good workout over all-- way better than i had a right to expect. Increased my resistance in 4 of 9 grips.
Weighed in before at 200.2#, clothes, shoes, and a steak sandwich included. EI scale yesterday said i'm at 15.8% body fat. That's down from 17.5%, so i'll take it as a gain.
Today was [what i'm calling] HB workout numma 5.
Set 1: Warmup Jug: -10#: Hmmm...easy, but a li'l stale.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -20#: This was a 5# increase from last time. Harder, but still fairly easy. And that's encouraging.
Set 3: Medium Edge (SemiClosed): -25#: Again, a 5# increase. Definitely harder--maybe even hard; but no fail.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30#: Left this the same, and it felt easier than last time. Li'l hard at the end, but no fail. Could probably increase here. Huh.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Very hard. No fail, but close.
Set 6: Large open-hand Edge: -10#: No increase here. And, again, i took F2 to the inner dimple, and this time from the first rep. This felt very hard. No fail though.
Set 7: Wide Pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed on the last rep. Still better'n the last workout a smidge.
Set 8: Sloper: -whatever the plate pin weighs: This was a 10# increase--maybe a little hubris here. Very hard. Failed at the end of the last two reps.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -30#: 5# increase. Had to dig deep, but didn't fail.
Very good workout over all-- way better than i had a right to expect. Increased my resistance in 4 of 9 grips.
Weighed in before at 200.2#, clothes, shoes, and a steak sandwich included. EI scale yesterday said i'm at 15.8% body fat. That's down from 17.5%, so i'll take it as a gain.
Monday, August 25, 2014
Week 2ish (Sun. HB #5)
Right. So this one was supposed to happen on Saturday, but didn't 'cuz we'd stayed up the night before with a sick horse. And that worked out ok, as i'd done too hard a "recovery" day on Thurs anyhow. Didn't want to do the workout again last night 'cuz i'd been putting up fencing all day yesterday, and my hand hurt going into it-- wasn't sure how it would go. But i'm glad i did it, and it was a really encouraging workout.
Set 1: Warmup Jug: -10#: Easy.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -25#: Felt easy. Failed on these on Wednesday. This time i did 'em at night, and the not-90deg coolness made a huge difference. Felt like i could'a' gone harder.
Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed): -30#: Little hard, but no fail. Could increase.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30#: Hard at the end, but no fail.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Very hard, but no fail. Failed miserably on these on Wed with -45#, but on a whim i bumped the resistance up, and this was right on. Still kinda cut into my pinkie cuticles, so i'ma hafta figure out what's up and sand it down.
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10#: Same weight, but i took F2 to the inner dimple 'stead of F3, and that definitely made it harder. No fail though.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed at the very end of the last two reps. That's still a bump upward from the last coupla workouts.
Set 8: Sloper: -10#: Li'l hard on the last rep. Should increase.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -35#: Fairly easy, and with a smile. These felt way hard last time, so this was a happy increase.
Takeaways: First of all, it's striking how much difference 10 or 15 degrees of calor'll change things.
Second, it's striking how some very sore, blistered, worn out hands from hammering with a post driver didn't affect m' hangboarding. At all. Almost odd, really.
Finally, this was a good workout. Dug pretty deep, but it was there to be mined. This was fer sure a step upward.
Set 1: Warmup Jug: -10#: Easy.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -25#: Felt easy. Failed on these on Wednesday. This time i did 'em at night, and the not-90deg coolness made a huge difference. Felt like i could'a' gone harder.
Set 3: Medium Edge (semi-closed): -30#: Little hard, but no fail. Could increase.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30#: Hard at the end, but no fail.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -40#: Very hard, but no fail. Failed miserably on these on Wed with -45#, but on a whim i bumped the resistance up, and this was right on. Still kinda cut into my pinkie cuticles, so i'ma hafta figure out what's up and sand it down.
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10#: Same weight, but i took F2 to the inner dimple 'stead of F3, and that definitely made it harder. No fail though.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45#: Very hard. Failed at the very end of the last two reps. That's still a bump upward from the last coupla workouts.
Set 8: Sloper: -10#: Li'l hard on the last rep. Should increase.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -35#: Fairly easy, and with a smile. These felt way hard last time, so this was a happy increase.
Takeaways: First of all, it's striking how much difference 10 or 15 degrees of calor'll change things.
Second, it's striking how some very sore, blistered, worn out hands from hammering with a post driver didn't affect m' hangboarding. At all. Almost odd, really.
Finally, this was a good workout. Dug pretty deep, but it was there to be mined. This was fer sure a step upward.
Friday, August 22, 2014
Thurs (Zwischenzug)
So then, following direction in The Manual, i thought i could pull off an easy day of ARCing yesterday with the idea that i'd rest up today to hang again tomorrow. And i did ARC--20+ mins.
Then i just hit every boulder problem in the place, ran out and started making up hard problems, and working 'em with some friends. I suspect that will prove to have been a terrible idea. I might have hurt my R ring finger, but i know i ground my hands to meatloaf. Miiiiight not be the best workout tomorrow. But we'll see. Still felt good to pull hard, even if it was an act of undisciplined self-indulgence.
Maybe i'll go fishing tomorrow.
Today, at least, is a guaranteed day of sloth and healing.
Then i just hit every boulder problem in the place, ran out and started making up hard problems, and working 'em with some friends. I suspect that will prove to have been a terrible idea. I might have hurt my R ring finger, but i know i ground my hands to meatloaf. Miiiiight not be the best workout tomorrow. But we'll see. Still felt good to pull hard, even if it was an act of undisciplined self-indulgence.
Maybe i'll go fishing tomorrow.
Today, at least, is a guaranteed day of sloth and healing.
Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Hangboard and some HIIT
To catch up, Monday la hija y yo did our first Tabata workout. We got our booties kicked.
Before that, i did a sprint workout with the ol' HR monitor. That kicked my butt too. Did a 6ish minute warmup in the 140s, then set the timer and sprinted 20secs on with 10 secs rest for 6 intervals, then cooled down on the way back home. Short, sweet, and it drained me like the outta shape cow i am.
So-- the Tabata: It's 20 secs of exercise, hard as you can go, followed by 10 secs of rest, then next exercise. Four exercises in all, finish and repeat the whole thing for-- i think the whole session lasts 4mins in all.
Workouts were pullups, hanging leg raises, pushups, and hanging crunches (with the gravity boots).
First set of p'lups went swimmingly: got maybe 17. HLRs hurt pretty much from the get go as i've not activated my abdominal wall in many moons. Think i got 15 or so. Pushups were predictably embarrassing, but i got 18 or so. Hanging crunches... i looked like a quivering sloth. I could do these by grabbing my thighs and cheating. Don't really know why, cuz i've done em before. But i felt nearly paralyzed.
Second set: Pullups were off. I was having trouble remembering my identity or why i was doing any of this by now. Think i summoned 5 or 6 before i just hung there staring helplessly at the bar. HLRs...i think i managed some. Sad. Pushups, i think i might have been crying--don't remember-- but i got a few. Hanging Crunches were-- if they could get more amusing than the first set, they did. I did get some blood to my skull. And i may have cheated out a few.
I think i'd be skinnier if i did this workout frequently.
Yesterday (Tues) i climbed with the kids. So i didn't get a lotta climbing done. That was ok, 'cuz i slept like poo the night prior, and felt just as i'd slept. Did pull down a few decent boulder problems. This was supposed to be a warmup for a hangboard sesh, but i was not feeling it. Didn't happen. On the bright side, Annie led her first couple o' climbs like a champ. Chick's got some skeelz.
Did do the hangboard workout today. As above, this was supposed to happen yesterday, but only because i've slid off schedule by a day. Yesterday woulda' put me two days out from the last session, and that honestly wouldn't have been enough rest. So i'm ok with having put it off. Better sesh today than it'd otherwise have been yesterday.
Set 1: Warm-up Jug: -10: Easy peasy
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -25: This was up from -30# last time. Felt hard on last rep, but no fail.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30: Hard on last rep but no fail. Consider increasing next time.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30: Whole set i felt i could go heavier, felt easy, but then i failed on the last rep 'cuz it was so dang hot, and i sweated off.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45: Failed on the last 3 reps.
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10: Felt tired, but also very hot, and i dechalked.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45: Very hot. Failed on last 4 reps. That's in spite of taking an extra 5# off.
Set 8: Sloper: -10: Here i increased by 5#. Felt very hard. Failed on last 2 reps, again mostly 'cuz of the heat.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -35: Here again i increased by 5 # from last sesh. Very hard, and i failed on last 2 reps; but again, prolly cuz of the sweat factor. Otherwise i don't think i'd'a failed.
Overall a decent session. I have a fan i want to install on the wall. I do think that'd help--'specially for daytime sessions. A lotta these sets didn't feel hard as much as they felt impossible 'cuz of sweat. I'll probably keep my weights the same for the next session and see if it goes better if it's just not so hot. 'Bout getting weights reasonably dialed in.
Before that, i did a sprint workout with the ol' HR monitor. That kicked my butt too. Did a 6ish minute warmup in the 140s, then set the timer and sprinted 20secs on with 10 secs rest for 6 intervals, then cooled down on the way back home. Short, sweet, and it drained me like the outta shape cow i am.
So-- the Tabata: It's 20 secs of exercise, hard as you can go, followed by 10 secs of rest, then next exercise. Four exercises in all, finish and repeat the whole thing for-- i think the whole session lasts 4mins in all.
Workouts were pullups, hanging leg raises, pushups, and hanging crunches (with the gravity boots).
First set of p'lups went swimmingly: got maybe 17. HLRs hurt pretty much from the get go as i've not activated my abdominal wall in many moons. Think i got 15 or so. Pushups were predictably embarrassing, but i got 18 or so. Hanging crunches... i looked like a quivering sloth. I could do these by grabbing my thighs and cheating. Don't really know why, cuz i've done em before. But i felt nearly paralyzed.
Second set: Pullups were off. I was having trouble remembering my identity or why i was doing any of this by now. Think i summoned 5 or 6 before i just hung there staring helplessly at the bar. HLRs...i think i managed some. Sad. Pushups, i think i might have been crying--don't remember-- but i got a few. Hanging Crunches were-- if they could get more amusing than the first set, they did. I did get some blood to my skull. And i may have cheated out a few.
I think i'd be skinnier if i did this workout frequently.
Yesterday (Tues) i climbed with the kids. So i didn't get a lotta climbing done. That was ok, 'cuz i slept like poo the night prior, and felt just as i'd slept. Did pull down a few decent boulder problems. This was supposed to be a warmup for a hangboard sesh, but i was not feeling it. Didn't happen. On the bright side, Annie led her first couple o' climbs like a champ. Chick's got some skeelz.
Did do the hangboard workout today. As above, this was supposed to happen yesterday, but only because i've slid off schedule by a day. Yesterday woulda' put me two days out from the last session, and that honestly wouldn't have been enough rest. So i'm ok with having put it off. Better sesh today than it'd otherwise have been yesterday.
Set 1: Warm-up Jug: -10: Easy peasy
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -25: This was up from -30# last time. Felt hard on last rep, but no fail.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30: Hard on last rep but no fail. Consider increasing next time.
Set 4: Medium Pinch: -30: Whole set i felt i could go heavier, felt easy, but then i failed on the last rep 'cuz it was so dang hot, and i sweated off.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45: Failed on the last 3 reps.
Set 6: Large open-hand edge: -10: Felt tired, but also very hot, and i dechalked.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -45: Very hot. Failed on last 4 reps. That's in spite of taking an extra 5# off.
Set 8: Sloper: -10: Here i increased by 5#. Felt very hard. Failed on last 2 reps, again mostly 'cuz of the heat.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -35: Here again i increased by 5 # from last sesh. Very hard, and i failed on last 2 reps; but again, prolly cuz of the sweat factor. Otherwise i don't think i'd'a failed.
Overall a decent session. I have a fan i want to install on the wall. I do think that'd help--'specially for daytime sessions. A lotta these sets didn't feel hard as much as they felt impossible 'cuz of sweat. I'll probably keep my weights the same for the next session and see if it goes better if it's just not so hot. 'Bout getting weights reasonably dialed in.
Sunday, August 17, 2014
Hangin' On (session 3)
I still haven't managed to get a hangboard session in on the correct day. Was supposed to have done this workout yesterday, but just wasn't feelin' it. Worked out just fine: had a really good sesh of it; but i'd'a' like to have seen what she feels like to do the workouts 3 days apart 'stead o' 4. Next time p'r'aps.
Set 1: Warm up jug: -10# No change here. Easy.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -30# This was a 5# increase (up from -35#). No fail, still felt easy. Could still go heavier next time.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30# Again, hard, but didn't fail. Might try -25# next time.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -30# Added weight this time from -25#. Hard but no fail. Stick with that one more session, then back to -25#.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45# Failed at the very hairy end of the last rep. Very hard. Felt 'bout right.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10# This time i moved outward to 3rd finger on middle dimple top edge. Harder but no fail.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -40# Failed toward the middle of the last 3 reps. Very painful on the skin at the 4th MCP. Tape better next time. Otherwise 'bout right.
Set 8: Sloper: -15# Easy 'til the chalk wore off.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40# Hardish, but no fail. Taped my pinkies better this time, and it helped.
Overall good workout. Still have some weights to dial, but this was a lot closer. Man, i only thought deadlifts were mental. Talking meself outta putting a toe down on the ground with 2ish seconds left in the rep and i can feel my skin tearing or slipping--- that's mental.
Set 1: Warm up jug: -10# No change here. Easy.
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -30# This was a 5# increase (up from -35#). No fail, still felt easy. Could still go heavier next time.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30# Again, hard, but didn't fail. Might try -25# next time.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -30# Added weight this time from -25#. Hard but no fail. Stick with that one more session, then back to -25#.
Set 5: F 3,4 2-pad pocket: -45# Failed at the very hairy end of the last rep. Very hard. Felt 'bout right.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10# This time i moved outward to 3rd finger on middle dimple top edge. Harder but no fail.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -40# Failed toward the middle of the last 3 reps. Very painful on the skin at the 4th MCP. Tape better next time. Otherwise 'bout right.
Set 8: Sloper: -15# Easy 'til the chalk wore off.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40# Hardish, but no fail. Taped my pinkies better this time, and it helped.
Overall good workout. Still have some weights to dial, but this was a lot closer. Man, i only thought deadlifts were mental. Talking meself outta putting a toe down on the ground with 2ish seconds left in the rep and i can feel my skin tearing or slipping--- that's mental.
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Mulligan (Wk 6ish)
After taking just over a week between my first two hangboard workouts, i'm calling a redo. I've gotten off track and schedule, but i'm gunna go ahead and not care. I was planning to post up about how lazy and low i've sunk in order to inspire me to get back to work; but instead i dragged me out to the barn and worked out.
Got my new hangboard up, and worked out on it tonight. Really good workout, and i'm actually psyched to hit it even harder. Got a timer for my phone that doesn't suck, and i tweaked the pulleys, and that went a long way toward alleviating the irritation factor. Also, i actually wrote on my workout during the rests, which is something i haven't done in years, and it kinda rocked. I'm gunna do that every time, methinks. That's really the reason i set up this blog and the other.
Right then-- the workout:
Set 1: warm up jug: -10#: Just fine
Set 2: F2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Didn't feel too hard. Coulda gone a li'l heavier.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#: This was hard, but i got 'em all.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Very hard. Failed on the last 2 sets.
Set 5: F3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Massive fail. Need to take off more weight. Also i think my tape was slipping off.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: No fail, but hard at the end.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -30# for r1-3, then -35#: Massive fail. Take off 40# next time.
Set 8: Sloper: -15#: Hard. Failed on last rep.
Set 9: F3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#: No fail, but hard. Pinkies hurt. Needed tape.
Of note, i didn't count the weight of my hanging pin for the weights. Probably weighs another 5ish #. Going to take a few more sessions to get my weights dialed, but this was a happy workout.
Got my new hangboard up, and worked out on it tonight. Really good workout, and i'm actually psyched to hit it even harder. Got a timer for my phone that doesn't suck, and i tweaked the pulleys, and that went a long way toward alleviating the irritation factor. Also, i actually wrote on my workout during the rests, which is something i haven't done in years, and it kinda rocked. I'm gunna do that every time, methinks. That's really the reason i set up this blog and the other.
Right then-- the workout:
Set 1: warm up jug: -10#: Just fine
Set 2: F2,3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Didn't feel too hard. Coulda gone a li'l heavier.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi-closed): -30#: This was hard, but i got 'em all.
Set 4: Medium pinch: -25#: Very hard. Failed on the last 2 sets.
Set 5: F3,4 2-pad pocket: -35#: Massive fail. Need to take off more weight. Also i think my tape was slipping off.
Set 6: Large open hand edge: -10#: No fail, but hard at the end.
Set 7: Wide pinch: -30# for r1-3, then -35#: Massive fail. Take off 40# next time.
Set 8: Sloper: -15#: Hard. Failed on last rep.
Set 9: F3,4,5 2-pad pocket: -40#: No fail, but hard. Pinkies hurt. Needed tape.
Of note, i didn't count the weight of my hanging pin for the weights. Probably weighs another 5ish #. Going to take a few more sessions to get my weights dialed, but this was a happy workout.
Saturday, August 9, 2014
Week 5 (hangboard wk 1)
So far this has not gone well. Was supposed to do my first hangboard workout last saturday, but i didn't get to. Did the first one on Tues, which shoulda been workout #2. Was supposed to do the third (or, in the case of having skipped the first, the second) workout yesterday; but i didn't. No time, minimal energy, and nowhere to warm up. This'll happen, but i might stretch it out an extra week to get all the workouts in. Based on the singular HB workout i've squeezed in so far, i 'spect this'll by far be the game-changing phase for me. Tuesday's workout destroyed my hands. Friggin' nuclear meltdown. Lemme see if i can accurately(ish) recount said for posterity.
The workout is 9 sets (each set being a different grip) of 6 reps. Each rep is a 10 sec hang with 5 secs' rest between--so there's really no time to rechalk or shake much between reps. 3 mins' rest between sets. Supposed to take weight off me with pulleys as needed in order to barely be able to finish each set. I fully accomplished the barely-completing-each-set bit, but i definitely need to dial the weights i'm using. Fingers 2-4 are used (thumb not included), and i'll number 'em thus when needed for ease.
Set 1: warm up jug ---Got all these, BW
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket ---Think i took 35# off, and these were still sad.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi closed) ---Think i took 10 off for these, and it wain't enough: fail
Set 4: Medium pinch --- BW. Using the SoIll ironpalm for this, and it's not a good pinch. Got em though
Set 5: F 3,4 pocket --- Took off the 35# again. Not enough. Suck-ed
Set 6: Large open-hand edge --- Don't think i took weight off for these. The edge on my board needs sanding, and these took some flesh off
Set 7: Wide pinch --- Again on the IronPalm: Not a good pinch. Got em
Set 8: Sloper --- used the Metolius Similator. I think i thought i could get these without weight off, and i ended up failing before the end.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 pocket --- took off 35# or so. Hating life through these.
Main take-aways here: 1) i've already ordered a Trango RP board. It kinda amazes me that i have maybe 5 hangboards to select from, and i can't really find the appropriate holds for some basic hanging among them.
2) i gotta dial my weights in a bit better. This will be much easier when i can do my whole workout on one board instead of toggling, cuz i won't have to jack with my pulley system as much during rest intervals. 3) i gotta come up with a more efficient way of warming up. Had a huge lag time between the gym and my boards for this session, and that's not so bueno. Hopefully i'll have time to get some usable routes up on the Moon Wall.
And i hafta do this more often. i can see how this is the stuff that strong climbers are made from.
The workout is 9 sets (each set being a different grip) of 6 reps. Each rep is a 10 sec hang with 5 secs' rest between--so there's really no time to rechalk or shake much between reps. 3 mins' rest between sets. Supposed to take weight off me with pulleys as needed in order to barely be able to finish each set. I fully accomplished the barely-completing-each-set bit, but i definitely need to dial the weights i'm using. Fingers 2-4 are used (thumb not included), and i'll number 'em thus when needed for ease.
Set 1: warm up jug ---Got all these, BW
Set 2: F 2,3,4 2-pad pocket ---Think i took 35# off, and these were still sad.
Set 3: Medium edge (semi closed) ---Think i took 10 off for these, and it wain't enough: fail
Set 4: Medium pinch --- BW. Using the SoIll ironpalm for this, and it's not a good pinch. Got em though
Set 5: F 3,4 pocket --- Took off the 35# again. Not enough. Suck-ed
Set 6: Large open-hand edge --- Don't think i took weight off for these. The edge on my board needs sanding, and these took some flesh off
Set 7: Wide pinch --- Again on the IronPalm: Not a good pinch. Got em
Set 8: Sloper --- used the Metolius Similator. I think i thought i could get these without weight off, and i ended up failing before the end.
Set 9: F 3,4,5 pocket --- took off 35# or so. Hating life through these.
Main take-aways here: 1) i've already ordered a Trango RP board. It kinda amazes me that i have maybe 5 hangboards to select from, and i can't really find the appropriate holds for some basic hanging among them.
2) i gotta dial my weights in a bit better. This will be much easier when i can do my whole workout on one board instead of toggling, cuz i won't have to jack with my pulley system as much during rest intervals. 3) i gotta come up with a more efficient way of warming up. Had a huge lag time between the gym and my boards for this session, and that's not so bueno. Hopefully i'll have time to get some usable routes up on the Moon Wall.
And i hafta do this more often. i can see how this is the stuff that strong climbers are made from.
Sunday, August 3, 2014
Week 4 and a tri
i managed to fail on Thursday's enduro work. Went in to do my 2 30min sets of ARCing and got sucked into a bouldering session with a friend. Would have rather done the ARCing, but it was a fun break. i'm not gunna beat me up too bad for the sidestep.
So then i get a call on friday to do a sprint triathlon with a friend. 500y swim, 13mi bike, and 5K run. Hadn't been on a bike with any seriousness since last summer (and that was mountain biking), hadn't run even once since last October, and hadn't swam for 2+ years, so my expectations were low. He roped me in cuz he was doing it on a mt bike with only platform pedals; so i figured i wouldn't be alone off the podium.
But i ended up doing very very respectably: Got a 1:23:30ish overall.
Hair over 8mins on the swim, and i was just hoping i could stay in the vicinity of 10mins. So i averaged just over 48 sec 50s. Very respectable for an elderly fat guy.
The bike truly shocked me, and made me glow. 13 miles, and i got it in 29mins and change. And i got stopped at the beginning waiting on a train, which tacked at least a minute onto my time. So i averaged somewhere around 27mph on the bike, and my rear derailleur was jacked and stuck. i mean, to put it into perspective, i was hoping (without knowing the course) that i could average around 20mph. Thirteen miles is over 20K (i.e. 12.4mi) and a fast time--even for the hardcore--for a 40K is breaking an hour; so i was on pace for a career highlight ride on no training at all. I'm gonna conjecture that the Lord nudged me up some of the hills with a fairly stiff tailwind. And i'm thankful.
The run went pretty much according to expectation. I was figuring on 10min miles, and i got it in just under 30mins. So i did do better than 10min miles, but only just.
At any rate, i was so flippin' ecstatic with how that went that i want to actually maybe train for tri again, and do some more soon. I can't help but feel like i coulda actually grabbed some podium if i'd have trained even a li'l bit within the last two years. Vamos a ver.
So then i get a call on friday to do a sprint triathlon with a friend. 500y swim, 13mi bike, and 5K run. Hadn't been on a bike with any seriousness since last summer (and that was mountain biking), hadn't run even once since last October, and hadn't swam for 2+ years, so my expectations were low. He roped me in cuz he was doing it on a mt bike with only platform pedals; so i figured i wouldn't be alone off the podium.
But i ended up doing very very respectably: Got a 1:23:30ish overall.
Hair over 8mins on the swim, and i was just hoping i could stay in the vicinity of 10mins. So i averaged just over 48 sec 50s. Very respectable for an elderly fat guy.
The bike truly shocked me, and made me glow. 13 miles, and i got it in 29mins and change. And i got stopped at the beginning waiting on a train, which tacked at least a minute onto my time. So i averaged somewhere around 27mph on the bike, and my rear derailleur was jacked and stuck. i mean, to put it into perspective, i was hoping (without knowing the course) that i could average around 20mph. Thirteen miles is over 20K (i.e. 12.4mi) and a fast time--even for the hardcore--for a 40K is breaking an hour; so i was on pace for a career highlight ride on no training at all. I'm gonna conjecture that the Lord nudged me up some of the hills with a fairly stiff tailwind. And i'm thankful.
The run went pretty much according to expectation. I was figuring on 10min miles, and i got it in just under 30mins. So i did do better than 10min miles, but only just.
At any rate, i was so flippin' ecstatic with how that went that i want to actually maybe train for tri again, and do some more soon. I can't help but feel like i coulda actually grabbed some podium if i'd have trained even a li'l bit within the last two years. Vamos a ver.
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Week 4 day 2
Made it through the second of the long back-to-back ARC seshes. And that went just swimmingly. Except that some kid was determined to make me fall off the wall, and at one point actually put his hand in my chalk bag. i just looked over at his mom, who stared on in abject complacency, and i continued climbing after asking him to please not do that. Freak.
Then he came up later and let me know that it was probably about time to clip my toenails.
Nevertheless, i did 3 sets of 30 mins on the Olde Wall with 10 mins rest or less between. Tomorrow's just two sets. There's a light at the end of the tunnel.
Then he came up later and let me know that it was probably about time to clip my toenails.
Nevertheless, i did 3 sets of 30 mins on the Olde Wall with 10 mins rest or less between. Tomorrow's just two sets. There's a light at the end of the tunnel.
Tuesday, July 29, 2014
Week 3 and 1/3 of week 4
Didn't get to post last week. Just no time, or motivation or such.
Got in 3 days (Tues, Wed, and Thurs) of ARCing last week (wk 3) with 3 sets of 25mins on Tues and Wed, and 2 sets of 25 mins on Thurs. Also got in a short mountain bike ride before climbing on Thurs.
Did end up somehow hurting my thumb, but i don't know how. Still kinda feeling that, but it seems to be healing.
Once again, i didn't manage to get in any outdoor routes over the weekend. But i can live with that-- my hands still feel like ground sausage.
Today i got in the first ARCing of week 4: three sets of 30 mins with about 10 mins rest between. And now i'm hurting. But i made it through, and i feel good about that.
Got the same coming up tomorrow, and 2 sets of 30 mins on Thurs. If i make it through this week, i shall feel i've built some real character. And i believe i have my first proper hangboard workout coming up at the end of the week. Kinda looking forward to that.
Got in 3 days (Tues, Wed, and Thurs) of ARCing last week (wk 3) with 3 sets of 25mins on Tues and Wed, and 2 sets of 25 mins on Thurs. Also got in a short mountain bike ride before climbing on Thurs.
Did end up somehow hurting my thumb, but i don't know how. Still kinda feeling that, but it seems to be healing.
Once again, i didn't manage to get in any outdoor routes over the weekend. But i can live with that-- my hands still feel like ground sausage.
Today i got in the first ARCing of week 4: three sets of 30 mins with about 10 mins rest between. And now i'm hurting. But i made it through, and i feel good about that.
Got the same coming up tomorrow, and 2 sets of 30 mins on Thurs. If i make it through this week, i shall feel i've built some real character. And i believe i have my first proper hangboard workout coming up at the end of the week. Kinda looking forward to that.
Friday, July 18, 2014
Aaaand week 2
Did get in 2 sets of 30 mins' ARCing yesterday, with about 10 mins rest between. That was encouraging. Actually felt good; and that was surprising after how dull and detached and wasted i felt on Tues. Gives me hope that this thang could look up. Actually felt way stronger than usual. Even got done and went and did some quick pullups, dips, and tire flippin'.
Haven't got in any outdoor mileage this week, and that's not looking to improve o'er the weekend. But these next two weeks are looking to be brutal, workout-wise. And my work schedule should reduce to normal again. So i'm not too bent outta shape. Making progress. Making progress. Making progress.
Haven't got in any outdoor mileage this week, and that's not looking to improve o'er the weekend. But these next two weeks are looking to be brutal, workout-wise. And my work schedule should reduce to normal again. So i'm not too bent outta shape. Making progress. Making progress. Making progress.
Wednesday, July 16, 2014
Into week 2
Yeah, this week is < fun. No time. Did manage to get in the ARC workout yesterday. 2 sets of 30mins with about 10mins o' rest between. Did not feel particularly strong. Didn't climb at all over the weekend, so i was hoping to at least be very well rested, but i really felt like dropping off the wall after about 5 mins of the first set. But i made it through. Got another of the same (2 x 30mins) tomorrow.
Tired of this week. But i do like the ARC seshes. Pretty relaxing, as far as sucking wind and sweating like a beaten race horse goes. And i am grabbing stuff and yarding on it--even tired--that i wouldn't have given any serious thought to a few weeks ago.
Tired of this week. But i do like the ARC seshes. Pretty relaxing, as far as sucking wind and sweating like a beaten race horse goes. And i am grabbing stuff and yarding on it--even tired--that i wouldn't have given any serious thought to a few weeks ago.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
Week one
ARCin' today: Plan called for 2 sets of 25mins, and i did 2 sets of 30 mins with maybe 5 or so mins between. Went in a li'l early to get it all in, and was hoping for an iron workout, but i still was racing to work. No iron. Just climbing. But it sho did feel better than last week. i can believe i might just see some big gains from this enduro work.
Wednesday, July 9, 2014
Rest
Went in to the klettergym yesterday afternoon for some routes. Did a nice long traverse warmup, found a friend and threw down a 5.9ish warmup, then started workin' a proj. Got another friend in on the action, and we started working 'er properly. I finally got the send on about the fourth burn, which felt very very terribly awfully good.
I'm not good at rating that sort of climb. Short (25-30'), very thin balancy start to a very good shake out, to a v4/5 boulder crux. I'd guess it's conservatively 11c/d, but i ain't sure.
At any rate, i hauled a lofty percentage of my lard up on a slopey, half-pad right hand pinch more times than i can remember whilst unlocking the sequence, and that made for a pretty fine day o' climbing--2 routes in total notwithstanding.
Tomorrow it's s'posed to be another ARCing day. And maybe some weights.
I'm not good at rating that sort of climb. Short (25-30'), very thin balancy start to a very good shake out, to a v4/5 boulder crux. I'd guess it's conservatively 11c/d, but i ain't sure.
At any rate, i hauled a lofty percentage of my lard up on a slopey, half-pad right hand pinch more times than i can remember whilst unlocking the sequence, and that made for a pretty fine day o' climbing--2 routes in total notwithstanding.
Tomorrow it's s'posed to be another ARCing day. And maybe some weights.
Monday, July 7, 2014
Start Day
Friday got to go climbing with a friend in Durango. Did four routes, but they were ferlippin' pumpy suckas, and while i hung on every single route at least once, i still felt pretty good about the day. Veeeeery nice to get on some real rock again and take some decent falls. Can already tell it's been helping me in the gym--especially with my footwork.
Today i ARCd. Was gunna do 2 sets of 30 mins, but i was running late for work and did 1 x 30 and 1 x 20 with about 5mins rest between. And i was torched. And to be fair, the workout i'm doing only called for 2 sets of 20mins. But my fingers and forearms didn't feel damaged, and that's been a big fear. Right ring finger flexor's been feeling on the edge of rupture, and sat and sun i was feeling some righteous golfer's elbow on the left. Seems to have subsided with glucosamine, tons of fish oil, Tiger Balm and generous taping. On looking at the calendar, i guess i wasn't supposed to do this workout 'til tomorrow, but that wouldn't work terribly well. Should have a rest day tomorrow.
Today i ARCd. Was gunna do 2 sets of 30 mins, but i was running late for work and did 1 x 30 and 1 x 20 with about 5mins rest between. And i was torched. And to be fair, the workout i'm doing only called for 2 sets of 20mins. But my fingers and forearms didn't feel damaged, and that's been a big fear. Right ring finger flexor's been feeling on the edge of rupture, and sat and sun i was feeling some righteous golfer's elbow on the left. Seems to have subsided with glucosamine, tons of fish oil, Tiger Balm and generous taping. On looking at the calendar, i guess i wasn't supposed to do this workout 'til tomorrow, but that wouldn't work terribly well. Should have a rest day tomorrow.
Wednesday, July 2, 2014
ketchup
Haven't posted in a bit, but i haven't done much. Haven't lifted in a coupla weeks, but i'm planning to--hopefully tomorrow. Did go climbing on real rock after church on sunday, and that was a good time. Gotta get my head back into clipping up the real stuff. i'm used to having my holds conveniently pointed out in high-contrast relief to the ambient wall. This feeling-around-for-a-hold stuff... i dunno. But i am gunna say i'm a li'l stronger than the last time i was on real rock. Got about three routes up.
Went in on monday to ARC, but got taken by a bunch of new routes at the gym, and ended up doing those instead. Still made for a good climbing day.
Pretty much haven't done anything else. Am making some good headway on the Moonboard.
Went in on monday to ARC, but got taken by a bunch of new routes at the gym, and ended up doing those instead. Still made for a good climbing day.
Pretty much haven't done anything else. Am making some good headway on the Moonboard.
Tuesday, June 24, 2014
Arcin'
Did 2 sets of 30mins ARCing with a ten minute rest in between. Felt pretty good. They're getting easier.
Sunday, June 22, 2014
Destruyado
Coupla workouts to log:
Friday ( 2 days ago) did some ARCing. Two sessions of 30mins each. That was hard and i sweated a lot. But i made it through. Toward the end of the Base Fitness phase you end up doing three days in a row of it, and the last session (if i 'member c'rectly) is 3 sets of 30 mins. That sounds hard right now, but i made it through 2 30min seshes; so i have pretty good confidence i can make it through.
Saturday (yesterday) went in to the gym for some back work. Was (again) s'posed to do 5/5/5 day on deads, but i was tired and not really feeling it. So i did the full workup from a deficit, and then decided to try 495 from a deficit. I failed twice, but they were valiant efforts. Little disappointed 'cuz i've locked 495 from a deficit before; but i think i woulda had it yesterday if i'd had my belt on. Did get it to my shins before i stalled.
Then did Good Mornings, which i'd not done for about 3 weeks. 4 sets of 12 with 135, 155, and 175 x 2. Those destroyed me, and i'm still suffering. i really like those things.
Then P'lups: 20 x bw, 10 x +25, and 2 x 5 x +45. (Last set i eked out a sixth rep). Then as i was racking my plate this older feller came up and asked if i was a Marine-- said i worked out like a Marine. I took that as a compliment. :)
Then one arm DB rows: 2 x 8ish x 90#. These felt hard, and my elbow flexors still feel kin'a cooked. Today and yesterday i've struggled with picking my kids up to hug 'em.
And i've finally bought all the materials for a Moon wall. Pictures forthcoming on that other blog.
Friday ( 2 days ago) did some ARCing. Two sessions of 30mins each. That was hard and i sweated a lot. But i made it through. Toward the end of the Base Fitness phase you end up doing three days in a row of it, and the last session (if i 'member c'rectly) is 3 sets of 30 mins. That sounds hard right now, but i made it through 2 30min seshes; so i have pretty good confidence i can make it through.
Saturday (yesterday) went in to the gym for some back work. Was (again) s'posed to do 5/5/5 day on deads, but i was tired and not really feeling it. So i did the full workup from a deficit, and then decided to try 495 from a deficit. I failed twice, but they were valiant efforts. Little disappointed 'cuz i've locked 495 from a deficit before; but i think i woulda had it yesterday if i'd had my belt on. Did get it to my shins before i stalled.
Then did Good Mornings, which i'd not done for about 3 weeks. 4 sets of 12 with 135, 155, and 175 x 2. Those destroyed me, and i'm still suffering. i really like those things.
Then P'lups: 20 x bw, 10 x +25, and 2 x 5 x +45. (Last set i eked out a sixth rep). Then as i was racking my plate this older feller came up and asked if i was a Marine-- said i worked out like a Marine. I took that as a compliment. :)
Then one arm DB rows: 2 x 8ish x 90#. These felt hard, and my elbow flexors still feel kin'a cooked. Today and yesterday i've struggled with picking my kids up to hug 'em.
And i've finally bought all the materials for a Moon wall. Pictures forthcoming on that other blog.
Monday, June 16, 2014
Revvin up
Did a second session of ARCing today. Two sets of 25mins of traversing with about 15mins between ('cuz i was talking). Felt pretty good, and i felt like i kept the intensity up fairly well. Highlights for me how outta shape i am, but also how easy it could be to see some really exponential gains.
If i could turn some v5 power into cruising speed, i could onsight 'bout any 5.11 out there. And that'd be just fine.
If i could turn some v5 power into cruising speed, i could onsight 'bout any 5.11 out there. And that'd be just fine.
Friday, June 13, 2014
Back
S'posed to be 5/5/5 day on deads.
But i didn't do 'em.
Did do the warmup: 20 floor touches, 20 SLs with the bar, 12 SLs with 145, 8 SLs with 245, 5 deads with 345 and 1 with 445, all with 25# plates.
Then i did P'lups: 20 with BW (could've done more), 10 with +25#, 5 with +45. Can't honestly say i fully locked the last rep.
Then i did 1 arm pulldowns: 10 with 100, 8 with 130, 2 with 160 (cheated down the last rep on both arms). Little stale on these after the pullups. i'm ok with that.
Felt pretty durn good through this--no tendonitis-- only i wish i'd had a li'l more time.
But i didn't do 'em.
Did do the warmup: 20 floor touches, 20 SLs with the bar, 12 SLs with 145, 8 SLs with 245, 5 deads with 345 and 1 with 445, all with 25# plates.
Then i did P'lups: 20 with BW (could've done more), 10 with +25#, 5 with +45. Can't honestly say i fully locked the last rep.
Then i did 1 arm pulldowns: 10 with 100, 8 with 130, 2 with 160 (cheated down the last rep on both arms). Little stale on these after the pullups. i'm ok with that.
Felt pretty durn good through this--no tendonitis-- only i wish i'd had a li'l more time.
Thursday, June 12, 2014
Day 4
Climbed a 4th day in a row. S'posed to be 5/5/5 day on deads, but i wasn't feeling it. Instead i decided to do some "aerobic restoration & capillarity" (ARC) training. Basically amounts to climbing just below yer lactate threshold for a long time without stopping-- so moderate endurance climbing. I've been dreading these cuz i know i have not much endurance, but it went ok. Two sets of 20 minutes each to begin, with 5 or so mins' rest in between. I was sucking wind, and i fell a couple o times, but i made it. Definitely can see how this will make me a better climber. Haven't officially started a training cycle, but i gather the more (i.e. longer) i'm able to do these, the better it ends up in the performance phase. So if i can start out ahead of the curve, it won't hurt me down the road. Am planning to take the weekend off from climbing. Hopefully deads tomorrow.
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
midweek
I've clumb now 3 days in a row. 'Ve tried to keep her light--doing lots of routes and traversing, etc. But mostly i've been short on time, and've ended up bouldering. Notwithstanding, that ends up being a bunch of fairly light climbing cuz they tend not to put up any hard routes at the wall. Today was the most disciplined day this week. Actually did a warmup, and then threw on the harness and got 6 routes (all on toprope) in about 20 mins. Nice warm pump; no injuries. Am gunna hafta take a few days off though. Tendons are getting a smidge ragged. But i can feel my endurance improving.
Friday, June 6, 2014
shoveling me back on the wagon
Went in for de-load deads. Warmed up with deficits: 20 floor touches, 20x the bar, 12 x 145, 8 x 245, 5 x 345. Working sets were 6 sets of 3 for speed. Did a set with 350, but didn't like the speed. Dropped to 15 to 335 but didn't like the speed. Dropped to 315 for 4 more sets, and those were just about right. Didn't get enough sleep last night, and felt a li'l sluggish.
Then i engaged in an exercise called "dips" which conscript motor units from the "triceps" muscles (among some even more obscure bits of soft tissue). Now, these muscles apparently repose on the backs of the arms; and mine, when called upon, decided they disliked me, and made me nearly nauseous.
2 x 15 BW (all were BW btw), 1 x 12, 1 x 10, cooked. Made a conscientious point of really stabilizing my shoulders before i started, and i came out without a shoulder injury. Gunna hafta work back into these, though.
Called it without doing more back cuz my biceps are not healed, and we're not yet on speaking terms.
Planning on heading back for some climbling later today.
I may even do some "abs" work. I'm presently just over a week in without cheese of any sort. Man, i freakin' love cheese. Food is just nearly pointless without it. Might end up being the healthiest thing i've ever done. Bleh.
Then i engaged in an exercise called "dips" which conscript motor units from the "triceps" muscles (among some even more obscure bits of soft tissue). Now, these muscles apparently repose on the backs of the arms; and mine, when called upon, decided they disliked me, and made me nearly nauseous.
2 x 15 BW (all were BW btw), 1 x 12, 1 x 10, cooked. Made a conscientious point of really stabilizing my shoulders before i started, and i came out without a shoulder injury. Gunna hafta work back into these, though.
Called it without doing more back cuz my biceps are not healed, and we're not yet on speaking terms.
Planning on heading back for some climbling later today.
I may even do some "abs" work. I'm presently just over a week in without cheese of any sort. Man, i freakin' love cheese. Food is just nearly pointless without it. Might end up being the healthiest thing i've ever done. Bleh.
Thursday, May 29, 2014
Year's worth
It has been over a year since i last posted. That's a li'l wild. I think i've posted most of my serious workouts up in texts, but it'd be nice to have a handier reference.
I'm gunna start this back up as a place to put my workouts--mostly the numbers--without the meandering and meta-story. Starting another locale for ranting and talking, etc. Gunna try to keep this fairly skeletal for the sake of Future Reference.
Just had a decent one. Went to the gym feeling like puking, so i decided to climb a bit instead of doing 5/3/1 on deads. Did some bouldering and 4 or 5 moderate routes, until i was falling off of jugs (i also climbed yesterday), and then decided i'd try some deads anyhow. Working off a 520 max from the floor.
Truncated my normal warmup (which has been 20 toe touches, 20 SLDs with the bar, 12 SLDs with 145, 8 with 245, 5 with 345, and 1 or 2 with 445 all from a deficit with 25# plates) cuz i was having trouble holding the bar. Went to my working sets after the 245 mark, but screwed that up with too heavy a percent. Sorted that out anyhow and did 3 with 445 and then locked out a single with 495. Missed a new PR with 510. PR is still 505.
Did a couple sets of Good Mornings, then went to do pullups. (Been working those for the last couple of weeks). Some d00d was using my space, so i opted for one arm pulldowns instead. Very interesting. Think i did 10 (each arm) with 100ish, then 8 with 145, then 3 with 160, then i cheated a single with 175 with a nicely controlled negative. I think i could work more on those: kinda a fun motion.
I'm gunna start this back up as a place to put my workouts--mostly the numbers--without the meandering and meta-story. Starting another locale for ranting and talking, etc. Gunna try to keep this fairly skeletal for the sake of Future Reference.
Just had a decent one. Went to the gym feeling like puking, so i decided to climb a bit instead of doing 5/3/1 on deads. Did some bouldering and 4 or 5 moderate routes, until i was falling off of jugs (i also climbed yesterday), and then decided i'd try some deads anyhow. Working off a 520 max from the floor.
Truncated my normal warmup (which has been 20 toe touches, 20 SLDs with the bar, 12 SLDs with 145, 8 with 245, 5 with 345, and 1 or 2 with 445 all from a deficit with 25# plates) cuz i was having trouble holding the bar. Went to my working sets after the 245 mark, but screwed that up with too heavy a percent. Sorted that out anyhow and did 3 with 445 and then locked out a single with 495. Missed a new PR with 510. PR is still 505.
Did a couple sets of Good Mornings, then went to do pullups. (Been working those for the last couple of weeks). Some d00d was using my space, so i opted for one arm pulldowns instead. Very interesting. Think i did 10 (each arm) with 100ish, then 8 with 145, then 3 with 160, then i cheated a single with 175 with a nicely controlled negative. I think i could work more on those: kinda a fun motion.
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